Valve lash, on the 16 valve
Suzuki SideKick. G16B ONLY ! or Tracker !
All Torque's here, are for 96 , 1.6L SOHC 16valve motor;
See Cam below?, set the lash on the heels , never on the lobe sides. (the rockers are missing for clarity!)
The heel is perfect simi circle and lash does not vary here. (cam not wrecked, sure)
You already know how to use a feeler gage.
The distributor "disty" is timing correctly (rotor at 1pm per FSM at TDC)
The cam key is not sheared or some previous owner(evil) didn't time the cam using the "I" slot. DO NOT USE "I" marks or SLOTS ! Timing the CAM.
The crank key is not sheared. (hidden under the crank cog is damage?, LOOK !) No body reads 1996 published TSB's , seems so.
The Timing belt is timed exactly , not slipped.
If any of the above are wrong, stop and correct that now.
Rules: CW = Clock wise, CCW = Counter clockwise (facing rear of car)
The Lash can be set using 4 different procedures, called ways, and way4 works even if the cam is timed wrong !
The Best WAY is that way that never burns up the valves. The be, the lobes way.
Way1: The 2 stops way. The FACTORY FSM way. (cam not timed right is failure here) This is the fastest way , per FSM.
The Suzuki factory FSM way with just 2 crank turns ( fails if cam is not timed correctly) See full Factory way 1, here
Way 2: The 4 stops way( the crank fires every 180 degrees of rotation, 1,3,4,2 )
(cam not timed right is failure here, same for crank key, same with the infamous crank pulley internal rubber has failed and is loose)
Cam Cog not exposed. (cover on Tbelt not removed) I'm trusting all keyways in the engine, here.
The 4 stop way, I first put a chock mark on #1 crank pulley edge "V" mark, then put 1 more mark at 180 Degrees (1/2 turn around) on the same pulley crank. (about)
The #1 mark is for #1 firing and #2, the rockers are on the cam heels if #4 is on heels, now, I then t rotate the crank 360degrees and now #1 is firing. (#1 rockers on cam heels)
We set lash for Each cyclinder in this order, 1, 3, 4 ,2 (ignoring the distributor , totally)
Turn the crank only Clockwise.
#1 crank 'v' mark at TDC 0, cams on heels #1 , set lash on #1
Rotate crank 180 degrees CW set #3 lash.
Rotate crank 180 degrees CW set #4 lash.
Rotate crank 180 degrees CW set #2 lash.
your are done.
Way 3: (if the cam key (slot E) is sheared, this fails too. but the crank key can be sheared and lash will be good ! and the crank pulley rubber bad)
The CAM COG wheel must be exposed, if not skip this way3.
The cam fires every 90 degree's.
This way 3 is the same as #2 , but this time all we do is Gander at the "E" SPOKE MARK, on the front of the CAM COG wheel.
This can be done in Any order at any time, any valve, suspected.
Set the lash on the cam heels and never ever be wrong.
Click photo to ZOOM.
Way 4 , (LOBE HEELS WAY ONLY) This is the only way that is 100 % failure free, for LASH ONLY.
This way is , just rolling the crank CW , and you, watching the lobes and when the lobes are on the heels? , then set the lash,
This is the no books, no tricks, no cheating way, it is taught in all ASE classes, for checking cam timing or lash on any 4cycle otto cycle engine.
All you need is a feeler guage, and eyeballs on the cam lobes, to do the job.
Why do this?, if you have issues with the motor, doing this way, prevents valve burn up, no matter what is wrong with keys and rubber crank vulcanization. You can do this , then conscentrate on timing, bad keys and what not and get compression over 170psi.
Suzuki WAY 1 Assumptions:
You read the instructions on how to use a feeler gage.
You know how to set lash with a feeler gauge and can remove and replace the valve cover gasket ( with a new gasket)
You checked the crank bolt , for 94 ft/lbs of torque (CW facing pulley) because they all seem to be falling off. (TSB) Horror
If you've never set the valve lash before, then Google " setting valve lash", this is common information. The below is unique to this motor.
The FSM shows using a special feeler gauge, to set lash , no you don't need that, just use the cam to rocker juncture to set lash. and avoid this tight valve tip , area totally.
Do not try to put a feeler in lifter gap just below. See the 2 red arrows in the below head photo? see lash THERE. x16
Hard to set gap. click to zoom.
See Targets of Opportunity.
Pull off the main induction tube, 4 hose clamps and 3x , 12mm headed bolts. and the Induction tube mount bracket.(3 more bolts)
After pulling (twist first) the spark wire boots out of the wells , I always blow out the pits (wells) with shop air, I just hate sand in side a motor.
If the wells are full of water , then consider stopping the use of the pressure washer. If full of oil the gasket is no good. You have a new one.
Remove the 2 water tubes to the induction heater pipe (plug them) and remove PCV and 1 breather hose from the same pipe, tie them back.
I leave the throttle cable attached, but that is your call.
Pull the Valve cover , there is pry point at the top right corner of the cover (below, at the gasket juncture)
Key points are, that you set the lash in groups. 1,2,5,7 is the first group (Drawing #1 below) , be sure you are at TDC 0 degr. and that valves at Intake group 1 are loose.
In fact all valves at #1 cylinder (front) are loose now. And must be so.
If valve group 1 is not loose, rotate the crank CW , 360 degress and it will now be loose.
If not loose now ( the lash) then something bad is wrong. ( Timing belt slipped. Cam wheel cog key sheared? , etc?)
The Procedure: WAY 1, the factory way. Most Torque spec.'s are here.
(this way is the Suzuki FSM 2 crank position way) you don't need to do it this way , you can just walk the crank and cam 1,3,4,2 and set valves "old school")
On my 96 Kick, I set the lash to .006 on all valves. (middle of spec. range) ( if checking, last I use Go, NOGO method)
The last bit of information needed , is the lash spec.s and the valve cover torque , below for your year.
Valve Cover bolt torque is low as, 36 inch/lbs or 3 foot/lbs ( on some years)
My 96 FSM shows contradictory data, 89 in/lbs on one page and 44lb/inches on page 6a1-61.
( My 95 FSMTracker) show as high as 89 inch/lbs , on page 6a2-77)
I use 44 inch lbs max. for my 96, as stated in my 96 FSM.
Careful here, on VC bolts (8mm head) times 6, use as little toque as possible and make it firm. Never use a Ft/Lb torque wrench at 3 Ft/lbs , use an inch/pound wrench!
The VC bottoms out in the 4 corners and so over tightening will never stop any leak. Forget that idea, please look at the corners, and see the stops?
Go easy with these tiny screws on the VC.
The LASH data: Just set the cold lash and be happy.
1992-95 16v: data; (Source 1995 ,Tracker 16v FSM pg. 6A2-12)
When cold - Coolant 59-77 degrees F.:
Intake: .005 to .007
Exhaust: (same as intake above)
When hot - Coolant 140-154 degrees F.:
Intake: , .007 to .008)
Exhaust: (same as intake above)
1996 to 1998: 16v (source, 1996 Tracker FSM)
same temp as above.
intake .007 -.008
exhaust .007 to .008
1.8L Suzuki Sidekick SPORT DOHC engine, cars have hydraulic valve lifters, and this page does not apply.
TDC ? what is TDC Top Dead Center firing?; ( How to get to TDC 0 deg. #1 cylinder firing )
How to find TDC if lost, here are all the ways.
rev. 5 , more simple but still 4 ways. 6-1-2013