Who's on First, what's on Second?    
For online help, phone or texting?
The helper, can not see your car, so you need to tell him or her, the year , and VIN (USA).  Vehicle Identification Number.
The VIN tells the helper or parts supplier, in the USA, what you are driving. (almost)
The helper can not touch, see, look, hear, drive your car, nor open the hood and see what engine, is in said car, nor all the missing parts, or wrong parts, after 20 + years.
To over come this great limit , send him a photo of the area that is in question.  For the Engine issues, open hood, SNAP , a Kodak moment.
For an transmission problem, tell this person how many speeds the car has, 3,4,5?   5 is manual stick and the 4speed (AUTOmatic) has overdrive , with switch and lamp status of same. OD !


OR
How come nobody can help me fix my car, on the phone or the internet or some text box, SMS, or ?

The answer is simple, not all cars are the same , even though the box (car) looks the same.    No matter what YEAR or body type.
This one fact, wastes more precious time, (for everyone) with a mechanic talking on the phone or helping you online, than all things combined.
Not only that, you end up going down the wrong path and spend money and time on thing's not related, at all you your cars problems. $$$$   Suzuki parts are hard to find and are expensive.
Suzuki is an  underdog and after-market parts are not well supported, for sure !, this car is not a Jeep.®

To get help,  good help, identify the car first, to your helper.  (not present)
An Example:
Hello,  I live in Wisconsin, USA.  {I don't need the town , or ZIP code, just the STATE and for sure the country, thank you!}
I have a 1991 Suzuki 2door 5speed, 4WD (4X4) with the 8 valve motor (black valve cover), it sucks too much gas.  Here is a photo of the engine and exhaust manifold on top. (attach photo).
Keep in mind, that in a real shop, we use real instruments , and gauges, and vast experience, in finding problems FAST and cheaply.
Guessing is expensive. (but can be fun for a sick online helpers !, that seems to be a rule, on online forums?  Good luck !)


Peeves:  (online, text, forums, etc)
Fixing cars (or diagnosing ) is a HANDS ON, EYE on , adventure.   (this is all expected, in very old cars, 2 decades , average)
You never said, where you live, nor what country the car was purchased,  nor if it is stock or heavy modified (bastardized or missing most critical parts)
Many poster say,  I don't know any of all that?   I say, that is a fib.
You do know the VIN, (its on your registration and on the dash tag) and you do know the year, the door count, the country the state you reside and many other things.  Post them.
You may not notice the missing parts, or wrong parts under the hood, true, but that is why photos solve that is 1 second flat.
The person looking, now sees, OMG, (typically) what a mess ! 
, there are no extra parts on Sidekicks, or Trackers, they are simple and very Spartan, so missing parts are a problem.)


The United States has 3 VIN market codes for Suzuki,  Code 33 California. and 03, for Federal.   The difference can be shocking, even a different engine.
A market is a car built to your countries, government rules (DOT,etc) and regulations, as you see California is a country (EPA rules).
The USA cars have 2 engines choices up to 1996, (3 in 97) in other countries, 6 or more choices (called engine TYPE code, seen on chassis tag).
So not identifying your engine first off, makes the on line or phone help, nearly impossible. 

Canada has VIN code 28 for market, but in Canada, they can buy 4 different market cars, USA,(x2) Canada and OMG BLACK MARKET, (any of  35+ markets) < rules changed in 1998 !

In addition to that, if you car. by chance is a GM aberrant.  called the GEO (What's a Geo?) Tracker,  than for sure, the glove  box has an RPO TAG (large ) that shows all options on the car, even smog.
Think of the RPO as an "AS BUILT" OR  BUILD TAG.  It is.

Most countries have laws, most countries, have import laws and laws governing same , some have a small list (eg. just max displacement) up  to a vast rules (USA is ENDLESS and complex).

The car maker, must design a car, to match those mandatory rules. In most cases. Not all.  
These DESIGNS, are called MARKETS and have CODES.  (USA  has 2 by EPA/Calif , edicts)
In the USA, I can not, just buy a car, in say Brazil and bring it home. That is illegal. (the rich have ways !  )

In your country, those rule too, are relevant, because I have no idea  in the world, how your car got in your garage or from what country it rolled from or floated in from.  Clueless.
Did you buy a VIT (Vitara) in Russia and drive it to London?  Or Some Santana? or ?
Photos do work,  Photos are amazing, I'm told portray a 1000 words,  and am told everyone has access to a digital camera today. 
Try photos. for 1000 times better answers., I promise.
If you have a body tag , affixed to the fire wall, do photo it and share it,  your cars body tag is very unique, it is usually just to the right of the cars battery, (not in USA).

ROTW (rest of the world):
The ROTW Is over 35 markets designed, different engines, brakes, wiring, lighting, (DOT rules) different EFI, different spark, some have Carb.'s up  to mid 2000s years. amazing  variants.
Some countries, Islands, and other near non regulated societies, allow JDM imports.

JDM:
This means  built to  and for JAPAN Domestic Market, this mean for citizens of actual JAPAN.
If your country, is not a real market, then you may be free, to buy what ever car you wish and from wherever. Even a JDM car.
Cash in hand, shipping to your front door. 

  • Different engines than others. (vast choices )
  • No smog parts, no Oxygen sensor, no EGR system and no CAT, no three way CAT.  (I call these SLICKS) Like Military air craft with no weapons. Slick.
  • Maybe not even with  real EFI system just a very old beat to death ratty CARB. (most old Carb.'s are hopeless  rare exceptions ever , stock! )  (got a Harley CV carb now? , yes?)
  • If EFI , it has a C0 (carbon monoxide) tuning device to control AFR (fuel mix)  Nothing state side works like this and is totally illegal here.  EFI is FUEL INJECTION. (electronic)
  • Unique wiring and lighting and brakes.
  •  JDM engines, use totally different maintenance and tuning. In fact the books are written in Japanese only and nobody can help.   In fact the engine is tuned with a CO meter. "Carbon Monoxide" (like we did back in the 80s)
Stock ? what does stock mean?, it means, "as it left the show room floor, new",  only filter changes, brake pads, belts, fluids , belts may be , OE like or better , bought at the store.
OE: original Equipment (like)
A.k.a.: lock box stock ride. dig? not bastardized yet.

A near JDM car, it's called a market E01, like the JDM it maybe SLICK, it may have very few smog parts but this too varies by year.
The E01 means, General Market , that is sold to all countries not having their own market rules.
The documents for both cars, JDM and E01 are on 100 % Japaneses , can you read Japanese?  not me, in fact I have only one buddy that can.
If you have a JDM or E01 try tell the helper online it is  one, and post close in photos of the engine (if bad) so the person helping as a clue what is there, surely we do not. NOT IN JAPANESE. not ever.

Here are some typical bastardized engines that cause horrible problems ( or ignoring maintenance)
Term 1:  CAI, so called Cold Air Intake (induction) That sucks in water and sand and dirt, like a Hoover.
  • CAI, some kid put in CAI to get his 20% more horse power ( no, you didn't') and  now the MAF sensor bounces, and you beat this $1000 sensor to death.  (really?)  You really hate your MAF that much?  The China clone is POS.
  • The exhaust manifold is cracked, 16v @ number 4 down tube (shields , down, Scotty(RIP)  ,see crack)
  • The O2 sensor (front, B1S1) is cracked, the bung is screws in to is stripped, or cracked. Sucking in AIR and rendering all Oxygen sensor readings, useless by the ECU.  BINGO !
  • The Exhaust has cracks from the exit point of the Exhaust valve ports, to anywhere on the TWC , three way catalyst.   BINGO , Oxygen sensor is now useless.
  • The vacuum hoses are cracked or leaking.  (on 16v motors, any vacuum or air hose , that is leaking is bad news to the max)
  • Wires fell off may EFI sensors.  (electronic fuel injection)
  • The spark parts, wires, rotor cap all look to be 2 decades old.  OMG ! never tuned up, ever?  Oh My Gosh !  look at that mess.......
  • The timing belt was skipped in the 60,000 mile (USA) and now it slipped, never skip changing out this belt with a new GATEs belt every 60k. Do not buy a China no name clone POS. buy by brand name. Gates is a top brand.
  •  This is a very short list of common, problems with 2 decade old cars.   Usually there are 10 things wrong.  Most.

This page is presented in the most simple terms, no EPA jargon, rules, methods, or massive tech, savvy comments.  Simple and to a point.
My message is , tell the helper where you live and what you  are driving and at least show photos, if unsure of ANYTHING.




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