X90 "clutch position switch" Questions

[maint]

Tracking down a X90 no start problem. Have continuity on the wire from the starter solenoid back to a connector just before it goes through the firewall and from the ignition switch to it's connector. Lots of drawings supposedly show what is between these two points but they don't agree with what is here or to each other. No continuity between the points
Most drawings show start power on a R/y wire to clutch position switch and, if pedal down, power to the starter solenoid. Not how it is in this car and it looks original. Wire starts out at key 12-14ga, wires to clutch switch are 18ga. Some drawings show from ign to clutch switch and then to both ECU and starter while others show to ECU. Wouldn't make sense to start out at ign with 12ga then drop to 18 ga at the clutch switch then back up after the firewall.
- If the clutch switch is NOT inline to starter then it operates on ECU
- If it operates on ECU then the starter solenoid wire would also go through the ECU to be controlled by the clutch pedal switch but I can't see one in any drawing. I could run a wire around the break but that makes no sense of the clutch switch
Can't trouble-shoot the no power to starter solenoid if I don't understand what is supposed to happen?
ANY CLUES??

[maint]

After hours of searching and testing I have a partial answer:
This car has 2 clutch pedal switches. The one I was referring to above the clutch pedal and a 2nd one way above the right side of the brake pedal. The 2nd one is the inline one that allows current to the starter solenoid. The linkage doesn't 'push' the plunger so much as it slides over it like a ramp. This wore the plunger end down and required a readjustment (after taking it out and checking the switch). Now I have continuity from ignition to starter. Will try starting tomorrow.
So...... what does the other switch do?

[fixkick]

After hours of searching and testing I have a partial answer:
This car has 2 clutch pedal switches. The one I was referring to above the clutch pedal and a 2nd one way above the right side of the brake pedal.  The 2nd one is the inline one that allows current to the starter solenoid. The linkage doesn't 'push' the plunger so much as it slides over it like a ramp. This wore the plunger end down and required a readjustment (after taking it out and checking the switch). Now I have continuity from ignition to starter. Will try starting tomorrow.
So...... what does the other switch do?

x90 is super rare car, (extreme) no books on it, now, wiring schematics)
the EXTRA switch may be  for cruise. option there or not.

do know all susuki' had lots of option, and permutations of them and for sure not 1 harness for each, (lots yes but not all)
so some thing here  are , ghost connectors. lots. (like rear window wasters and wiper) and lots more. (cruise model,etc)

all cars ive seen Sidekick here, the clutch switch has nut to calibrate, it. it is normal service check.

if no fear of starting in gear,  by pass it, I made up a bypass kit for mine and stored it in my glove box.  so as not to ever be stranded ever, for  such a silly switch./
all my other older cars , from the early 60s/ came  new with no clutch switch.at all, (a drivers skill get in car, put shifter in neutral was the rage then,grin. )
ever read the news of women driving over kids in the drive way? yeah there is that.  (and park lockout for a/t)

good luck and for sure  this is a FEATURE that has failed and makes started dead by design.
cheers to you !

[fixkick]

and on the right side a brake switch.

page 37 starter

https://fixkick.com/ECU/1996/Full96%20sc...-power.pdf

cruise page 8

https://fixkick.com/ECU/1996/Full96%20sc...-power.pdf

2 switches for the clutch. left is cruise , right is starter.
the blue wire marks CRUISE

this blue wire prevents engine screaming during cruise and you depress the clutch, a horrific event, possible.

[maint]

2 switches for the clutch. left is cruise , right is starter.
the blue wire marks CRUISE

this blue wire prevents engine screaming during cruise and you depress the clutch,  a horrific event, possible.

Ah now it makes sense. The clutch pedal cruise switch had been mushroomed on the end so the plunger couldn't ever come out but it didn't seem to affect anything. Two minutes with a file fixed it. But... it would scream in cruise with clutch disengaged. I thought that was just the nature of the beast.
Thanks

[maint]

By the time I went to start it the adjustment was off quite a ways. Turns out the clutch pedal arm, which has a square hole in it to mount on clutch shaft, split. Arm rocked a bit on the shaft at times so was probably why the adjustment was off in the beginning. Quickly got to the point it wouldn't work at all. Had to order another from Japan.
   

[maint]

I know Previous Owners do odd things but I found another one today while trying to adjust the clutch pedal height. The cruise control switch was mushroomed because someone had pulled up (or jacked it) on the clutch pedal hard enough to totally distort where the stop and switch strike. Now I have to pull the clutch pedal out and either get one from a wrecker or try to straighten this one. Also the local Suzuki authorized dealer says no more levers at Suzuki so had to weld my broken one together, adding some reinforcement
What it should look like
   
what it is
   

[fixkick]

these pedals are all cheap spot welds and love break
when the cable ruts and binds up, the driver puts 100 lbs of force on the cable (mindless) and that is 6time that on the cable
and things break. even the fire wall breaks, no kidding



here is my clutch pedal horror page, nothing new here, slide show and factory pages at the end, settings


https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...index.html

yes reweld all parts, cracked, and if done right never happens again.

[maint]

I should have reinforced the bracket similar to the 8th pic. I thought about it but didn't. I did weld the pedal where it joins the shaft as it looked like a crack was starting there. I've worked on many vehicles and machines but never been such a frustrating position to work. You need extra joints in fingers and hands!
I have decided the PO reefed up on the pedal in frustration when trying to put the spring on the pedal [because I sure wanted to]
I'm putting the old clutch cable back in until the new Suzuki OE one comes as it is ok but for the rubber boot.

[fixkick]

I should have reinforced the bracket similar to the 8th pic. I thought about it but didn't. I did weld the pedal where it joins the shaft as it looked like a crack was starting there. I've worked on many vehicles and machines but never been such a frustrating position to work. You need extra joints in fingers and hands!
I have decided the PO reefed up on the pedal in frustration when trying to put the spring on the pedal [because I sure wanted to]
I'm putting the old clutch cable back in until the new Suzuki OE one comes as it is ok but for the rubber boot.

i remove the front driver seat, to do that, or nothing but pain, happens.  

this job is not the worst , that is a bad heater core leaking,  no fun there ever.

as long as your pedal splins are still good,  this job is just tedious welding. all cracks and all spots that look weak and are, plenty of those.

I do wish you an  easy job there,  , good luck and happy trails.