What prevents a Sidekick from our years(or any car) to reach 180F?

[fixkick]

ECT testing, live, hot, 180F. as mentioned in post 2.
do not use ohms on any car, key on. (key off at 180f the sensor OHMS is 300 , unplugged) you risk blowing up ohms scales in meter.
key on, not running. (more easy)
ECT plugged in, the ECT page covers this , this is a retype.
backprobe the ECT, using DMM set to VOLTS. 20vdc range if fixed range meter.
the voltages shows.....
0.62v so my ect pages show..
what for volts. ? it is there. below covers all that, shows all ways possible to check ECT,
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html

it's 0.65v (so yours is perfect),. keep in mind as Ive said, the sensors, can slam(fail) to and open state, then go normal with heat or vibration.
old ECTs can do wild crazy things,
that ive seen on many OBD scans (logs)

all tests valid... perfect.


the ecu has 2000 ohm(precision 1%?) pull up resistor to the +5vdc bus.
the math(ohms laws)
I = @ 2300 ohms is , 2.17mA , so V at ect is ,, E=I x R , 2.17ma times 300 = .65217v... easy peasy japaneezy

[zukitrek]

Yes key off. Always trying to follow Sensei Fix guidances!!!

[fixkick]

i deleted all non thermostat posts. 180F (all things that cause it not to reach 180f and hold)

We need a new topic , "why is my hot idle speeds wrong, say too fast, say 1500rpm or surging?"
sorry

check this out, this link, on topic. new.

http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/fastfix.html

hot idle speeds fail for many reasons
1: ISC dead ( dirty or , idle switch open, or ecu in limphome, or ecu in idle up mode, or other gross errors.)
2: induction air leaks (huge list of possibles here over 15...)
3: engine power, too weak (lean fuel mix?) (a sick engine (low compression, cat melted or plugged up)
4: misfiring for any of 50 reasons (we think your does not misfire.. heard, seen or felt.)
5: egr leaking.?


in a nut shell , unless lucky or blessed with a magic touch? finding the cause takes huge effort and lots of testing using a bevy of tools, meters and a scan tool.
Luck, example,: TPS not calibrated, (and after cures this in one simple step)
not lucky example2: Gee, stuff happens on old cars... most i see are like this.
1: bad gaskets in the induction path , and hoses cracked, or clogged. up.
2: scan tool shows. close loop failing at hot idle. or idle up stuck on, or both, and 02 not working , seen one guy replace it 3 times and scans show its still dead.
later he pulls off the exhaust manifold shield and bingo , the #4 exhaust header tube is cracked, like seen on all forums x100.
and more.

that is why my page exists to help find these problems.
and fixing modern cars with no scan tool, in most cases is a hopeless endever.
after all , what the ECU sees, is what matters most....
lacking this Dang tool, is working blind.
but what if the Dang tool saved you $500 in parts, and $500 in labor or more, for the life of the car.
would not that be an INVESTMENT GRADE tool.. with pay back,,,????? and not DAMNED!
try to think about COST of owner ship. (long term) is that not what matters? most? depends on goals. keep in car yes, selling not.
what if it saves you gas , in the future.? does not that have pay back?
the tool can give you a heads up of future trouble.... (seeing random events? or 02 going dead at every other stop sign)

[zukitrek]

All true the above, my good sir. With DAMN I meant as not being bad, more of like an expression of ok, ok!! LOL!!
Of course by now you know that if I can't get the DAMN tool now why would I invest in parts if I don't know what is going on?

But I will. And will let you know as well.

Feliz Año Nuevo!!

[fixkick]

that is correct. find a shop that knows that. but running old cars, no shop has these tools.!!! (no TECH1, and if had one, it be like junk now, this old, and dead)
that is why when owning old cars the owner needs to be more self sufficient.
Even if all you do is , have the tool in hand and show your mechanic the methods of 1989 (circa) (look here, see me scan my car....)
look, here mr, mech,, see my 02 go nuts at idle. can you cure that ? (you to him)
see, now you are part of the path to solving problems, not just wishing....

i forget, did you look under the exhaust manifold shield for this?>
http://www.fixkick.com/look/96-num4-cracked.JPG

the crack changes sizes (sucks more oxygen) under weird conditions.
crack might open more at idle (cooler) and close at cruise. and not leak at all, hotter. (had 2 do that, and seen many others same)

this is why savvy mech, drive and log sensor data.. to learn what REALLY is happening.... (or spend forever guessing or saying car is a LEMON)

---

as I said , you can not work blind
nothing more needs be said, about working blind.
one can back probe the ecu to see if some pins are wrong.
best is to unbolt ecu , let it hang so pins are easy to reach.
seat out.
and idle hot engine and probe.
scanning is 10x more easy but this would find , pins wrong. in wrong state into ECU.

[zukitrek]

Okie sir. Your tips and guidance are always welcome and appreciated. I remember the exhaust crack thing, I can take a look again.

Buen dia!!

[fixkick]

no need.
just a very very common failure on the G16.
and loves to fail at idle only.
iron expands hot. (materials science)
so if cracked, it can actual expand at 50mph , and seal up.
cars are complex dynamic beasts....
not all problems are simple nor singular.
one)