Vitara Breathers

[SrgBog]

Hello,
Does the Vitara differential, gear, transfer,fuel tank breathers are all the same ?
If not what is the difference between them ?
What the right (non original) breathers to use ? (My car is 1600cc - so all breathers from 1600cc and larger engine cars will be good to use ? )

I found on ebay those 2 kind of breathers:
#1.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gearbox-Front-Differential-Breather-2101-1700020-Lada-Niva-1600-1700-4X4-NEW-/272027492401?hash=item3f561a2031:g:UaMAAOSwA4dWLgad&vxp=mtr

#2.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Axle-Breather-2101-2401050-Lada-Niva-4X4-Laika-Riva-2101-2107-NEW-/272059381412?hash=item3f5800b6a4:g:ANcAAOSwnH1WWcxu&vxp=mtr

What you think about those brathers , they will fit to my car?
Which one I shpud use for which part ?

THANK YOUUU

[SrgBog]

AM I RIGHT ABOUT HE BREATHER LOCATIONS ON THE PICTURE BELOW?

   

[fixkick]

Im not sure what you need, nor reasons why.
you lost your vents, the are vents, as the oil gets hot it expanded (Boyles laws) and if the vents are plugged, the oil then pushes past seals, and bad things happen.
if the vents or missing as the oil contracts (Boyles again) the vents will suck in dirt, or worse.
if fording a stream (its 4wd off road machine) the vent is vented to a high location preventing the water from getting inside the transmission, and both axles have this vent up high.


did someone throw away all your vents? (my guess this is basket case car?)



did you look for the nipples on all axles and boxes?
they are all there. (cept front axle all are permanently instilled, (nipples)
just run a hose up high from each.
the stock car uses Tee fitting to tie the xfr case vent to the transmission then goes up high to the firewall behind engine and is clamped, there. (has a special cap there
that lets air in and not dirt clods.
there are varies in CAMI/JAPAN and Santana made zuks.
but on the 4speed, from japan with transfer case its just has 2 hoses.
the 3sp has the Tee fitting joining 2 vents to one, from 3sp +xfr case)


i have the parts lists. the parts can be had. if missing
next up


see all vents here.
http://jeepdied.com/look/alien-stuff/all-vents.pdf

---

the gas tank is a whole other complex ball of wax.
those are the vents called the EVAP system.

and each generation car here more complex, some even run diagnostics on the vent 5 hours later, parked, key off, while you sleep (toyota) my jeep 27minutes later.

This has level 1 EVAP, tech.
simple but like all ,are had to find the leaks. (fume leaks not gas)
in the USA, we run level 2 EVAP starting in 1996 (more complex)

I have all the drawings, and P/n for this.

[SrgBog]

Thank you for your reply.
I incidentally came across the breathers issue - and I noticed that I have under the hood 3 vent hoses - 2 of them are without any breather caps and one (seems its the gear vent hose) had a plastic breather cap that melted into the hose (see picture)... So I thought it will be good idea to change the oils inside the gear, transfer and the diffs... And on the way I will replace the breather cables because as it seems there is a good chance that they are pretty dirty inside...

   

Till I will get a normal breather valves (cups) I will put fuel filters on a new breather hoses to protect them from dirt

Can hou please recommend me a FSM for my Vitara - so I can see the oils that I need to use and their quantity?

I saw about 6 manuals - and non of them telling about which oil that I need to use and how much oil I need for 1997 Vitara ... - the only thing that I found us that I will need a GL5 oil for transfer and diffs + A/T oil (Dextron III) for the gear box...

[fixkick]

Thank you for your reply.
I incidentally came across the breathers issue - and I noticed that I have under the hood 3 vent hoses - 2 of them are without any breather caps and one (seems its the gear vent hose) had a plastic breather cap that melted into the hose (see picture)...
there are no engine breathers, only the 2 PCV hose. (called close system) the air filter is a breathe breaths fresh air.
the rest are all vacuum lines.
that melted part (looks like fire damage) is a clip that used to click to vacuum lines in tandem.


So I thought it will be good idea to change the oils inside the gear, transfer and the diffs.
.. And on the way I will replace the breather cables because as it seems there is a good chance that they are pretty dirty inside... ( the vacuum lines old love to crack so we replace them all)



Till I will get a normal breather valves (cups) I will put fuel filters on a new breather hoses to protect them from dirt , the transmission vents caps up high, most of these cars lost them long long ago, ive only seen one still present on one sidekick' sure filters will work.


Can you please recommend me a FSM for my Vitara - so I can see the oils that I need to use and their quantity?'
the vitara books are here.

the lagest 1 cache of books is here
http://rhinoman.org/
click vitara (all)


the vacuum routing's vary by market.




I saw about 6 manuals - and non of them telling about which oil that I need to use and how much oil I need for 1997 Vitara ... - the only thing that I found us that I will need a GL5 oil for transfer and diffs + A/T oil (Dextron III) for the gear box...

what engine do yo have, G16 sure. but there are many types used.
id need a photo of it.
what parts are missing.
is car with EGR electric or vacuum or missing
car have CAT?
is IAC with 2 wires, or with more (motor drive)

---

here is our G16b
off my find EFI engine parts page


http://www.fixkick.com/find-parts.html

see 92 to 95, G16b parts, it shows all vacuum lines and more.

if i had your firewall, chassis tag photo (next to battery) i can see what market car it is.
and then show dead accurate, parts drawings and p/n

vacuum parts are mostly smog parts and varies by country (market)

hoses, water
vacuum
vents for trans, and axles.
pcv hoses.
all are different.

[SrgBog]

You already gave the specs for my Vitara
Yes, it have EGR

Here the picture you sent to me:
   

I think that I will replace the current breather hoses (old and dry hoses) with proper size fuel hoses and will order some ordinary breather valves from the net...
(till I will receive them I will put an fuel filters on the breather hoses to protect from dust and dirt)

Please correct me if I'm wrong - I think any breather valves of 4x4 1600cc engine and
higher will do the job (it should let enough air to go out so it shouldn't be to small - so breathers for
any 4x4 1600cc should be good) - the principal is pretty same - it should let the air to go out but not to go it..

So now I am going to find out which oil and how much oil I need for A/T , transfer, diffs.

THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR HELOP !

[fixkick]

you are very welcome.!
sorry forgot to read all posts (yours )

i have the full parts lists on e54, sure do
hoses are all selected by fluid usage (air is fluid too)
vacuum (hose must not collapse under vacuum)

PCV smog rated hoses (nasty stuff flows here)
then water, EPDM hose, for hot water /glycol mix. coolant antifreeze.
the vents (transmission.gear breathers) can be any hose that fits, as its just air there. (with almost zero flows)

PS:
"

Please correct me if I'm wrong - I think any breather valves of 4x4 1600cc engine and
higher will do the job (it should let enough air to go out so it shouldn't be to small - so breathers for
any 4x4 1600cc should be good) - the principal is pretty same - it should let the air to go out but not to go it.. "

those tiny stock vents on the axle and transmission flow tiny flows of air, almost zero. the stock hoses are huge, for the 2 axles and gear boxes.
any hose with same ID works. on vents .


hoses on car, are just metric ID hose (inside diameter)
no hose on car flows 1600cc air ,
all that matters is this. on hoses.
1: correct ID (inside metric diameter)
2; the hose matches the fluid, (air, smog,water, vacuum, or petrol , or oil.)
hoses are sold by the fluid that runs through it.
the water gets hot, and is full of chems, only coolant rated hoses work and last., here, most are EPDM hoses.
the air hoses (breathers, vents what ever air, can be any hose with correct ID)





the A/T uses the highest number DEXRON ATF. Dexron VI (6) is the current best correct fluid.
when you drain it about 1/3 of it comes out. no more. put back what you drained out.

if 1.5 to 3 liters come out put back same liters, (the clutch is full of ATF and does not drain out, ) neither does most the valve body in side..
the bone dry box, (rebuilt) holds 7 quarts.
see my tune page? see ATF? shows all capacities, and links to Suzuki pages. (sources)

the axles use GL5 (gear lube 5)
the transfer case GL4
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tune-ups.html#axles

http://www.fixkick.com/specs/gear-oil-lube.jpg

the operators guide is on my books page, the real guide. and shows all capacities.


books page
see operators guides there,
see this.

http://www.fixkick.com/index9.html


the capacities of all fluids , are in my tune up page
the operators guide
and the FSM book
all 3 places,
my tune up page shows the tricky way to do the 4speed, and shows all ways to do that.

[SrgBog]

According to what written at the FSM - for the A/T need to use Dexron-II oil...
But if I understand right - the higher Dexron level I will use it then better ?

[fixkick]

DEXRON ii is a relic, Dex 1 is whale oil, (shock) so what do people with 1968 cars do? DEX6 is the answer,)
DEXron VI is downward compatible and is the correct fluid, (read the product datasheet)
VI runs at a higher temperature, with no breakdown of the fluid. a fact. its the best for you, "Aisin" transmission, in fact they will tell you that if you ask them.
the 3sp the same , its a GM trans and same facts,

" All Dexron-III licenses expired permanently at the end of 2006, and GM now supports only Dexron-VI fluids for use in their automatic transmissions,"
this means the GEO fluilds too. 3p or 4sp.

---

make sure the back label, states "Licensed by Dexron."
or it might snake oil.

lots of scalpers sell cloned Dex3 to buyers who think them MUST have it. (FUD)
for $30 a liter. or more.
the books are 20 years old, the fluids have advanced, and are better. the DEX3 license is expired, so, RIP DEX3 (imo)


a bigger issues.
what ATF you mix?
there are the remains, of 6 Liters of DEX3 in side, so i'd bet using DEX on DEX is best choice ?, not trying other ATF lube brands?
what you dont ever want to do is mix brands, (additive packages that can happen with brand changes, mixed)

read the Dexron VI line
http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm

if you had a toyota with the A40 series box. (your) Toy owns 30% of Aisin company too.
they demand to use, TOY brand ATF, (and type) that is and upgrade to DEX VI, (so they say,)

your box is "Aisin" A44DE, box. with the 4wd adapter on the end.

takes 3 manual changes to get the fluid mostly DEX6
or power flushed at a pro shop
a pro shop will replace the fluid with a machine that has a pump and huge tank, ( with 10 liter) some gripe its more than spec, but forget the shop wants to get out all old AFT
and get pure Dex 6 there... who knows what the last guy put in there after 20 long years. right?

id want it pure.... DEX licensed ATF.
but the 3 DIY changes do it. (works by the laws of diminishing returns , dilution equations... etc.. )

---

issue 3
what if the new fluid, that now for the first time in 20 years, has fresh fluid D6 with fully active and present additive packages (the DEX formula (3 kinds in the ATF).
now the new fluid finds all that crud(gunk, varnish and worse) all hiding and packed away inside the box. and now cleans all that crud off.(read up ATF detergents)
this is why doing fluid changes at 30 to 50k miles is best. (if done correctly using the correct fluid and levels set exactly running hot ,per the FSM)
those waiting for 250k miles (20 years), (400 kM) find that changing ATF now, is a transmission torture session,
there are no guarantees , in this area..... only luck.

[SrgBog]

As I did my breathers project - one of the breathers are
broke... It seems that this is gear breather because of the
short cable that was attached to it...
I did not succeed to find the breather mounting
area on the gear because it os very hard place
to reach... Maybe you have some picture that showing
its exact location on the A/T gear?

How to replace it ? Do I need to take the gear off to do it?

Here is the part: