Vitara 91 - Hardening against theft

[jwunsch]

Hello,

Last night some meth head broke into my Vitara but failed to get it started with flathead screwdriver. I am very confused how he/she did not manage to break 29v old ignition keylock.

Anyhow I want to harden the car against theft as I have put a lot of effort and some money to get it fixed.I noticed that at some point someone has bypassed the fuel pump relay temporarily with a switch and then reverted back to relay (probably after buying a new one).

My plan is:
1. Add a kill switch somewhere (fuel relay?) and hide the switch somewhere behind radio or other not so easy place to guess.
2. Get a rod-lock that locks steering against door/floor/whatnot.


My question: Is there better kill switch place than fuel relay?
- If there is, what?
- If not, which wire should I reroute to the switch (ground or +).. I am guessing ground would be safest option?

It would be nice if the car tried to start, but would not ignite. If its completely dead someone easily guesses there is some kill switch done. I would them rather to try startup until battery is dead than right away figure out it has some trick.

[fixkick]

best way is locked garage.!
or at work> ? parked in bad hoods, is hopeless, really , (see 1 answer below fueL)
OK 1991 vitara in what country , but 29v (I can not understand that, sorry) now engine G16? stated or body 2door 4door or . 29valve engine ? LOL that is funny.
Many cars outsides USA the 1991 G16 has CARB, ive no idea at all what country you live in nor your VIN number codes. to tell me all that.

when I park at the air port (for even 30 days i take the distributor rotor with me, in hand carry case) (1999 no more distribs only DIS spark now)
where a car is parked is everything, , ive no idea where you are nor where you go, and all that matters.
if all is bad, well sure I can answer, sure.
no car stated at all,
cut spark. or fuel spark is best fuel can let car go 10 feet then stall. But on EFI engine cutting fuel lasts for seconds started, and stalls in short seconds. I can not be exact here, NO CAR TOLD at all. cutting fuel and 3 hours later there will be NO STARTING at all. period. not even 1 second.
to see that fact, pull the FI fuse running see how long it runs, see? mine goes 5secods, 1 hour later, zero starts of any kind,
I assume this vitara is not a CARB car, seen on many non USA cars. that year.

Cutting spark you can do that just pulling the IG coil fuse all sidekicks and trackers. (or add switch in series with output of this fuse)
91 vitara no engine size stated nor transmission type.


I can push start any car with manual transmission and have vast times. even on a hill childs play really. no transmission stated. by you.

seems you want tricky things that are impossible really, fooling the foolish thief, "who's more foolish the fool or the fool that follows him" never try to fool fools. is the take here.

both my cars 2008 and 2010 can not be started with out the magic key, security KEY called, IMMO, immobilizer. factory
for years ran a , fuel pump relay cut out switch, hidden and was a magnetic switch key, that was hidden fully, max stealth.
the pump has only 2 wires, one is ground and one is hot, to the relay,
you can cut the ground or hot wire.
or cut the relay coil pin 1 or2 with a series switch. your call. but I always cut ground to the pump doing the least damage to my EFI system. do less damage. is always best, hacking less, wins, for sure getting car fixed, dig? do not fool you mechanic with complex hacks or that can be costly.

sounds to me like you need fuel cut (super easy to do with EFI) eltronic fuel injections or 91 uses TBI and intake pump does yours?
do know that in 30 mins or less fuel pressure goes to zero NATURALLY.
so will not start ever, crank yes spark yes, but with no fuel there will be NO RUNNING not even for a second, fooling mostly no one.
most thieves move on to more say pickings, at fail 1st fail move on.

seen one of my cars , they ripped out the whole dash in 15min. day time. to get my head-end radio, there is no stopping a man with a crowbar
the damage they do is HUGE and very costly for all wrecked parts.
the only cure is best insurance. really.

the best switch is hidden totally
and magnet key, so all that is visible is a hidden very well slot, like my center console bottom, hidden there. (inside glove box, only a tiny slit or hole? for magic key>)
sure can and have done many.

or go balls to the wall with full alarm system. (they shut off the horn first the bad guys)

[jwunsch]

Hi,

Sorry was in middle of hundred things after returning to civilization and getting broken into my car first night.

Car Info:
- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.
 - Plate in engine compartment.
  - TYPE: ETA01V
  - LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)
 - No AC

Full alarm, nope its so easy to disable and not worth the trouble or cost. Garage is not an option where I live (apartment).

I also know that dedicated thief breaks a shit load with screwdriver and crowbar so this hardening thingy is mostly against for those that do 1 try and give up.. as you stated.

Anyhow I am 99,9% sure that motive was to try to get for a joyride with off-road capable vehicle, but as it did not give up on first try they just took my 20€ (about 21-22$) multimeter I forgot into the glove box. Maybe it was good there was "something to take".

I suspect its our local amphetamine addict yet again.. when I find him, well he will stop being a problem.. He also missed 2x 18L cans of gasoline in the back. And he fucking failed to break 29y old ignition lock.. shouldn't be to hard.

By the looks he tried once turning the ignition lock with flat screwdriver and then tried to take apart the plastics around it, but gave up..

   

So thanks. I guess I will go with hidden switch or magnetic switch or remote control switch for the fuel pump relay ground cable + steering wheel rod-lock thingy. That probably turns down most of the thieves as the car is hard to sell here and has very low value. Also mine is very recognizable due to some dings and oopses, "Vitara 4wd" tape on the sides, roof racket and front bars. Have seen no similar in our capital city area.

One additional question. What is the Amps or wattage required by the fuel pump? I guess less than 40A as largest fuse in the fusebox was 20 or 25A.

I found one remote control switch rated for 40A --> 480W. That could be hidden in the left side back paneling where the actual wires for fuel pump goes. Could setup there a wireless fuel pump ground wire cutoff. Not so easy to find when hurry

[fixkick]

Hi,

Sorry was in middle of hundred things after returning to civilization and getting broken into my car first night.

Car Info:
- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.
 - Plate in engine compartment.
  - TYPE: ETA01V
  - LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)
 - No AC

Full alarm, nope its so easy to disable and not worth the trouble or cost. Garage is not an option where I live (apartment).

I also know that dedicated thief breaks a shit load with screwdriver and crowbar so this hardening thingy is mostly against for those that do 1 try and give up.. as you stated.

Anyhow I am 99,9% sure that motive was to try to get for a joyride with off-road capable vehicle, but as it did not give up on first try they just took my 20€ (about 21-22$) multimeter I forgot into the glove box. Maybe it was good there was "something to take".

I suspect its our local amphetamine addict yet again.. when I find him, well he will stop being a problem.. He also missed 2x 18L cans of gasoline in the back. And he fucking failed to break 29y old ignition lock.. shouldn't be to hard.

By the looks he tried once turning the ignition lock with flat screwdriver and then tried to take apart the plastics around it, but gave up..



So thanks. I guess I will go with hidden switch or magnetic switch or remote control switch for the fuel pump relay ground cable + steering wheel rod-lock thingy. That probably turns down most of the thieves as the car is hard to sell here and has very low value. Also mine is very recognizable due to some dings and oopses, "Vitara 4wd" tape on the sides, roof racket and front bars. Have seen no similar in our capital city area.

One additional question. What is the Amps or wattage required by the fuel pump? I guess less than 40A as largest fuse in the fusebox was 20 or 25A.

I found one remote control switch rated for 40A --> 480W. That could be hidden in the left side back paneling where the actual wires for fuel pump goes. Could setup there a wireless fuel pump ground wire cutoff. Not so easy to find when hurry

ah yes 29years old.
all that is clear a good pump only draws 4 amps of current.
any good switch will work here,  on the ground side is super safe, no way for shorts there to cause fire or blow fuses.
yes most alarms are just junk most anyone can bypass easy,  

the pump wires are behind the left rear tail light.
seen here , (yes I hate meth heads too, )
(good luck in hiding any switch, sleep on it and in morning Ding goes the bell,  ahhhhh yes,,, here.....)

the ground for the pump is here, in the wrapper there is connector and huge pink wire is pump power from pump relay in dash.
G402.






 The damage to the ignition switch does look like work of the stoned. (more like monkeys than human.)
the switch also has snap of head security screws and hacking this key switch is not easy. (less than a huge sledge hammer)


my guess, is they see old car, and think easy to steal.  seems not so.


this cars TBI injector is super reliable,  1 injector not 3 more to clogged or die or leak.
no MAF sensor, is good too, (expensive)

I really like this car and for sure wheeling about in deep  snow. a blast to drive in that.
good luck to you and to fixng your car .

cheers from Texas.

[fixkick]

The FI fuse runs the pump,  is 15amps,  drain is never over 4amps from pump,
unless pump goes bad they can pull 10amps and be so bad the relays in the ECU click like made from power wire overloads.
if the fuel filter packs up 100% ;the pump goes to dead head mode, 60PSI and current near 10 amps.  but that is hard failure that.
15amp relays and 15amp switches  are dirt cheap, as are remotes.

FI is here.
 right bottom

[fixkick]

FI pump.

see FI path here. DC power.

https://fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg

[jwunsch]

Thanks a lot.

I will sleep on it a bit and think more. Now I got a feeling that I will use remote control switch on the pump ground and hide the switch inside tail light chassis casing or in the casing you see if you pull out the cover from left rear seat section of wall.

Not the first place to look for when you are in hurry. Also should be able to leech 12v power to the switch unit control by requiring lights to be turned on.. uses some milli amps.. which is nothing compared to lights them selves.


So basically then you will need to switch ON with the remote + turn on lights to actually get some fuel into the TB. My automatic lights fail more often than they work.


And yeah I agree with you that this car is nicely simple. Really one reasons for selecting it as 2nd car/hobby car. And as bonus you have RWD fun for the winter and 4WD H/L for places you really need traction. Only bad thing is that some parts are hell to find in  EU area.

I used to have BMW 520 (E60) before I swapped it to the more economic hybrid Auris. No probelms on the Auris yet (2015), but had some quite nasty troubleshoots on the BMW. Eventually got rid of it due to some strange AT or turbine lockup clutch problems as they could get expensive. So for old car I wanted the very simple option without AC, AT or any other complex or expensive stuff.