Vitara 1991 brake caliber bracket

[jwunsch]

Car Info:
- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.
- 242000km / 150 000 miles
 - Plate in engine compartment.
  - TYPE: ETA01V
  - LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)
 - No AC


Hi fixkick. I had earlier post about brake booster replacement and after 1 month of googling found parts and its done.


Found out that right front wheel brake caliber is badly attached. Pins going from brake caliber bracket to brace caliber have loose fitting and it seems I need new brake caliber + bracket.

Would you know where to find part number for the bracket or the bracket it self. Looks like really rare part in EU.

Thanks in advance.

[fixkick]

Car Info:
- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.
- 242000km / 150 000 miles
 - Plate in engine compartment.
  - TYPE: ETA01V
  - LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)
 - No AC


Hi fixkick. I had earlier post about brake booster replacement and after 1 month of googling found parts and its done.


Found out that right front wheel brake caliber is badly attached. Pins going from brake caliber bracket to brace caliber have loose fitting and it seems I need new brake caliber + bracket.

Would you know where to find part number for the bracket or the bracket it self. Looks like really rare part in EU.

Thanks in advance.

market 17 car.
ok lets do the drawing first, parts list and graphics.
R/F  caliper bracket.
are you talking about a whole new or rebuilt caliper? or that which it mounts upon.?

the  caliper mounts to the spindle/front axle assy.

the whole thing is R/T
55101- <prefix
suffix by vin serial

60a02 first year.
60A30, at vin -130232~  (means and higher)


LAK625k17
L= metal top.
A= 3doors
k= 4 seats
62, = 8valves.
5=JLX
k= type 1 engine,
17 = market code.

and parts are varied . are also by serials,  just like brakes are.

the 91 here (2door) not 4door uses 65101-60a02 same part.
the 4door is more heavy car uses totally different front calipers.

raybestos has them here, even rebuilt 91 2door.  (I love there quality used many)

Part Number: FRC1031
https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/...earch.html



https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/...er=FRC1031

[fixkick]

they do not sell direct, click distributors.

even rockauto has many
and all sub parts too,  braket and even pins sold.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzu...liper,1704

$25 whole thing.

more choices now,  a good thing at rock.

[jwunsch]

they do not sell direct, click distributors.

even rockauto has many
and all sub parts too,  braket and even pins sold.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzu...liper,1704

$25 whole thing.

more choices now,  a good thing at rock.

I think I need whole new brake caliber, seals and piston as rubber seal is broken and piston has some rust.

Those I found from local sellers. The about U shaped steel thingy holding the caliber has weared hole and thus the pin is loose and causes some noise etc when hitting holes in road. Or so I understood from the mechanic that replaces the brake booster. That part is not sold by anyone here.

Got this picture from him today. Its from right front wheel. I probably should order parts for both wheels as its 30y old car to have spare for the left side.

   

Car is 2 door hardtop, with removable backseat "chairs".

Also I need to replace both front shock absorbers so I probably should just get new brake assys, new shocks and springs and just get them all swapped at same run at the shop. Winter is coming and I dont have proper tools so get the parts first and then pay for the labor.

[jwunsch]

Ok the local 4x4parts garage has actually ordered stuff from rockauto to some US made offroaders and has been happy. Looks good they have lots of parts that are completely unavailable here

And even with customs toll and tax those parts are still bit cheaper than from local shops. Thanks a lot.

[fixkick]

they do not sell direct, click distributors.

even rockauto has many
and all sub parts too,  braket and even pins sold.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzu...liper,1704

$25 whole thing.

more choices now,  a good thing at rock.

I think I need whole new brake caliber, seals and piston as rubber seal is broken and piston has some rust.

Those I found from local sellers. The about U shaped steel thingy holding the caliber has weared hole and thus the pin is loose and causes some noise etc when hitting holes in road. Or so I understood from the mechanic that replaces the brake booster. That part is not sold by anyone here.

Got this picture from him today. Its from right front wheel. I probably should order parts for both wheels as its 30y old car to have spare for the left side.



Car is 2 door hardtop, with removable backseat "chairs".

Also I need to replace both front shock absorbers so I probably should just get new brake assys, new shocks and springs and just get them all swapped at same run at the shop. Winter is coming and I dont have proper tools so get the parts first and then pay for the labor.

U shaped steel thingy holding the caliber

does this U shape thing show up in the suzuki drawing,?

#11,12,13 are all anti-squeal shims that lazy shops do not replace,

#8 are slider pins that  love to fail and rust out,
The base is #14/15   ,
the normal practice on brakes is all new or all rebuilt full and loaded calipers as in #1/2 above.
replacing 1 full axle means both sides, so brakes do not pull and cause steering to pull drivers hands braking fast.
the actual caliper is under #7 screw,  do you call that U shaped, it is a caliper.  just like  vise works,.  
best is full loads,  (pads and all, )

make sure rotors are not cracked, those be man killers for sure. or too thin,

[jwunsch]

Parts 14-15 + pins (8-9) are problematic ones. Some sets of pins I found but 14-15 none.

I am thinking of getting all of that as at least right side brake disk is soon at end of life. So pads + shims + disks + calibers + pistons etc + mountings. And as I have 1 bad shock absorber, get those + springs. Then the front as whole should be ok for a long time and no worries in yearly vehicle inspection.

[fixkick]

Parts 14-15 + pins (8-9) are problematic ones. Some sets of pins I found but 14-15 none.

I am thinking of getting all of that as at least right side brake disk is soon at end of life. So pads + shims + disks + calibers + pistons etc + mountings. And as I have 1 bad shock absorber, get those + springs. Then the front as whole should be ok for a long time and no worries in yearly vehicle inspection.

there is only one worry
brake failures.
not testing.
what matters is just you being safe.
brakes bad can do horrible things not just dead. like jerking steering wheel as you go fast and brake in turns,  seen it all I have.
The other is , once I had air brakes fail in 20ton dump truck  flying through the REDLIGHT at 40mph , loaded,  horn blasting and emergancy brakes on fire.
me 17 years old. (learned that day to do brakes 100%) for life. county own truck me hired.  10speed box, crash box.

rotors ,calipers, pads, fluid fresh and good hoses, no leaks and those steel lines love to rust this old. and not safe that.
some of these cars the caliper pins seize and brakes fail that side or skid,  real crappy pins here.
my jeep has SST stainless steel pins (no rust ever) and teflon pin guides, same results .  quality is not free.

ever drive a car with front drum brakes,? if yes, we just love disk brakes now... no fade wow.  ( with drums 1 stop good,, 2nd fails as drums burn red hot)

[jwunsch]

Parts 14-15 + pins (8-9) are problematic ones. Some sets of pins I found but 14-15 none.

I am thinking of getting all of that as at least right side brake disk is soon at end of life. So pads + shims + disks + calibers + pistons etc + mountings. And as I have 1 bad shock absorber, get those + springs. Then the front as whole should be ok for a long time and no worries in yearly vehicle inspection.

there is only one worry
brake failures.
not testing.
what matters is just you being safe.
brakes bad can do horrible things not just dead. like jerking steering wheel as you go fast and brake in turns,  seen it all I have.
The other is , once I had air brakes fail in 20ton dump truck  flying through the REDLIGHT at 40mph , loaded,  horn blasting and emergancy brakes on fire.
me 17 years old. (learned that day to do brakes 100%) for life. county own truck me hired.  10speed box, crash box.

rotors ,calipers, pads, fluid fresh and good hoses, no leaks and those steel lines love to rust this old. and not safe that.
some of these cars the caliper pins seize and brakes fail that side or skid,  real crappy pins here.
my jeep has SST stainless steel pins (no rust ever) and teflon pin guides, same results .  quality is not free.

ever drive a car with front drum brakes,? if yes, we just love disk brakes now... no fade wow.  ( with drums 1 stop good,, 2nd fails as drums burn red hot)

Wow thats nasty. Here its quite normal at least nowadays that brakes on heavy trucks are spring loaded and you use air pressure to keep them open. If you lose air, you go no where or stop. Ofc with sudden complete air loss it would be very uncontrolled stop.

Yeah drum brakes are somewhat familiar to me from bikes and some not road ready cars we used to drive around our own private roads when we were kids. I dont really like having those on rear axle of my vitara but now as they work I don't consider disk conversion. COVID caused bit of a dent on the income side so have to think a bit what to do/buy.

I do agree with you completely that brakes are about the most necessary thing in car to take care of. There are ofc other really important things, but usually if they are bust u dont move and then brakes domt matter for the moment.

[fixkick]

Parts 14-15 + pins (8-9) are problematic ones. Some sets of pins I found but 14-15 none.

I am thinking of getting all of that as at least right side brake disk is soon at end of life. So pads + shims + disks + calibers + pistons etc + mountings. And as I have 1 bad shock absorber, get those + springs. Then the front as whole should be ok for a long time and no worries in yearly vehicle inspection.

there is only one worry
brake failures.
not testing.
what matters is just you being safe.
brakes bad can do horrible things not just dead. like jerking steering wheel as you go fast and brake in turns,  seen it all I have.
The other is , once I had air brakes fail in 20ton dump truck  flying through the REDLIGHT at 40mph , loaded,  horn blasting and emergancy brakes on fire.
me 17 years old. (learned that day to do brakes 100%) for life. county own truck me hired.  10speed box, crash box.

rotors ,calipers, pads, fluid fresh and good hoses, no leaks and those steel lines love to rust this old. and not safe that.
some of these cars the caliper pins seize and brakes fail that side or skid,  real crappy pins here.
my jeep has SST stainless steel pins (no rust ever) and teflon pin guides, same results .  quality is not free.

ever drive a car with front drum brakes,? if yes, we just love disk brakes now... no fade wow.  ( with drums 1 stop good,, 2nd fails as drums burn red hot)

Wow thats nasty. Here its quite normal at least nowadays that brakes on heavy trucks are spring loaded and you use air pressure to keep them open. If you lose air, you go no where or stop. Ofc with sudden complete air loss it would be very uncontrolled stop.

Yeah drum brakes are somewhat familiar to me from bikes and some not road ready cars we used to drive around our own private roads when we were kids. I dont really like having those on rear axle of my vitara but now as they work I don't consider disk conversion. COVID caused bit of a dent on the income side so have to think a bit what to do/buy.

I do agree with you completely that brakes are about the most necessary thing in car to take care of. There are ofc other really important things, but usually if they are bust u dont move and then brakes domt matter for the moment.

that 20ton dump truck the air valve stuck open, deep inside the controller, so spring brake heaven failed.
I would have loved to skid to stop.  hot dry day summer.
good luck finding all your parts rockauto, is best to look there first see all the makers there, that support this old car,  at least that.  very very good for that.

most times i'd go to local store tell e them the raybestos p/n and they get them in under 24hours to their counter. Even napa could do that.
the drums are great on rear.  no need for disks on rear ever, unless pulling 2000 lb trailer. down the rocky mountains, woooooooooooo

cheers to you !!!!