Upgrading/replacing front suspension components

[zukitrek]

Hello Fix. Im looking into replacing my front suspension components (found my left front strut is all covered in grease) and my question is can I get the individual components (bushings, links etc) and what can be found of the best quality.

Thanks and hope all is ok.

Javier

[fixkick]

rebuild kits are listed on rockauto.com
see them
and then pick one you like, and find locally? to save time?>

[zukitrek]

Any better brand or recommended, moog, ACdelco? Ive bought doorman upper arms and trail arm bushings fro another car and they were busted after 1 ½.

Thanks!!

[fixkick]

welcome back Zuki
there are many sources here, even SUZUKI and GM.
and lots of after market parts
as you know this changes every 6 months or less (Americans love to drive the products to the lowest level , price!)
Some parts from CHINA are good are now, or not tomorrow (they are infamous for Inconsistency) ISO9000 is not their friends.
Moog is good.
ACdelco same.
Dorman is in flux i see them using lots of no name parts now.. (they can't resist?)
really this is the 21st century disease.
like a crap shoot.
i only buy from doorman as a last result.... (case in point their intake manifold for 8v).

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...type=10401

here is the rock list
the cheap ones avoid. (in 99% of cases)
who the h3ll is OMNI? (china junk my guess)

In fact, what is a name?, answer , reputation, not cheap price, but good lasting products and a track record.


rear arms, ? or links.
bushings busted,? can be bad bushings or something is bad, causing over load on it.

moog is a very old USA company from 1937 to now, big time suspension parts.
and quality.

Federal Mogal owns MOOG
a huge USA company,


http://federalmogulmp.com/en-US/Brands/M.../home.aspx

[zukitrek]

Ok. Will take a look at them. Well my left front strut as I told you is busted, but aside from that and before finding this out, I feel that whenever passing over rough roads it feels way too bumpy and I have not replaced any of the lower arm bushings. They must be the factory ones. Only stab bar bushings, links, and outer tie rods have been replaced. Actually bought them from Rock Auto but don't remember the brands.

[fixkick]

finding the loose parts up front takes lots of work, by feel or inspections.
Id just stick to rockauto, so you have lots of choices,,, most what they offer are pretty good.

[zukitrek]

Okie. Will do sir. Gracias!!

[zukitrek]

Hello Fix. I will be getting front suspension components in the next weeks. My question. What is the best, easiest or only way to replace those front and rear bushings from the arm?
Don't worry about inspecting or checking condition, they have never been replaced all are original and the strut is already busted.

Here what Im looking to get. what you see circled in green is what Im asking how to replace.

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=269

And here is the list of parts I will be getting.

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=270

Perhaps you can help me out on getting the right parts, if you can and have the time?

Thank you so much.

Happy New Year, Javier

[fixkick]

welcome Javier
a usage of tools quesiton , i think.
this car has parts that can be replaces down to bushing level ,unlike the J18 sport where the whole front "A" arm is replaced
so all parts are the same. for your year generation. 92 to 95 for sure and maybe to 98
each part has story behind it.
buy struts by name , at top name, there are many and some names bands are better, id get KYB, not too expensive.
then part 23, that takes skill to remove, (not nut) the tapered shaft, needs tools to press it out. can be very hard to do, if you have never done those before. this is a tie rod ball and adjuster part and now car needs alignment, (a huge long story)

right parts?
i think all parts for G16 fit, this generation.



same story with ball joint 18, bolts easy,but not the tapered shaft end. to knuckle.
each step has a long story.
there are special tools for each case. called on car press tools. fits there and you press it off
most autostores here rent the kit of tools to do that.
sometime you get lucky and tap it with hammer, and it pops loose. or some hit the sides of ball real hard and it comes loose.
not the person here, knows this damages the old part, so....can do this, method if sure he can get it out,no tools (special)
if not car is now dead. (say for example you know your store has no ball pullers)
see?
last car i pulled balls. the new ones were defective. so car was dead. for 2 weeks getting new ones. (rare parts)
if i had used the correct tool, i could have ,regressed my path, using old balls and drive.
see?


part 17, just pound them out with wood dowels, or any firm non metal objects.
or press them out with any shop press. (best way)
same with rear track rod bushings.


the strut needs a spring compressor, i rent those, and get the safer hydraulic version, not funky screw clamps.(that can fly off and kill someone near)

---

right parts?
are you asking me which parts you need?
which brands are best,?
or do the above parts fit your car(i'd never know that, lacking makers name and part numbers)
or right parts, as in, i see 3 different parts listed, at one mAKER, and which one fits mine. (you never told make)


as ive told you, before (it's ok), use ecats e-catalogs
steps.
find a brand you like or can afford, surely Kone' shocks are out of the ball park..... at $1000 each?
then google., say you want KYB struts
google , "KYB ecatalog"

there catalog is the only true authoritative source for THEIR, part. (don't blindly trust autostores to get this correct. many dont)
1st google hit, (amazing right?,)

http://showmetheparts.com/kyb/

works for every maker of after market parts!
and if not, its China no name junk. (brand "som-ting-wong" (or all that crap sold on Alibaba..clone junk?)?
all serious makers have and ecat. all do..... or are junk or cloners of junk

why read the ecats?
1: get the right part, is #1
2: to see if they have choices, like (good ,better and best) or racing class. some parts, are adjustable and cost more..
3: see what years it fits.
4: in some cases, see what other cars it fits.
5: compare warranty's? and more....

keep in mind, there is no limits today on the amount of useless clone parts sold,
real parts are engineered, not cloned. not knocked off.

in my case
i go to napa
buy the part and it fits.
in your case
there is no NAPA.
so must import parts, and pay a huge duty tax
so doing this home work first, save's what ? shipping 3 times, and tax what ,3 times..???(got export tax too?.)
sure..

in my case wrong parts, is 1mile trip back to NAPA.
totally different deal
good luck.

[zukitrek]

welcome Javier
a usage of tools quesiton , i think.
this car has parts that can be replaces down to bushing level ,unlike the J18 sport where the whole front "A" arm is replaced
so all parts are the same. for your year generation. 92 to 95 for sure and maybe to 98
each part has story behind it.
buy struts by name , at top name, there are many and some names bands are better, id get KYB, not too expensive.
then part 23, that takes skill to remove, (not nut) the tapered shaft, needs tools to press it out. can be very hard to do, if you have never done those before. this is a tie rod ball and adjuster part and now car needs alignment, (a huge long story)

right parts?
i think all parts for G16 fit, this generation.



same story with ball joint 18, bolts easy,but not the tapered shaft end. to knuckle.
each step has a long story.
there are special tools for each case. called on car press tools. fits there and you press it off
most autostores here rent the kit of tools to do that.
sometime you get lucky and tap it with hammer, and it pops loose. or some hit the sides of ball real hard and it comes loose.
not the person here, knows this damages the old part, so....can do this, method if sure he can get it out,no tools (special)
if not car is now dead. (say for example you know your store has no ball pullers)
see?
last car i pulled balls. the new ones were defective. so car was dead. for 2 weeks getting new ones. (rare parts)
if i had used the correct tool, i could have ,regressed my path, using old balls and drive.
see?


part 17, just pound them out with wood dowels, or any firm non metal objects.
or press them out with any shop press. (best way)
same with rear track rod bushings.


the strut needs a spring compressor, i rent those, and get the safer hydraulic version, not funky screw clamps.(that can fly off and kill someone near)

---

right parts?
are you asking me which parts you need?
which brands are best,?
or do the above parts fit your car(i'd never know that, lacking makers name and part numbers)
or right parts, as in, i see 3 different parts listed, at one mAKER, and which one fits mine. (you never told make)


as ive told you, before (it's ok), use ecats e-catalogs
steps.
find a brand you like or can afford, surely Kone' shocks are out of the ball park..... at $1000 each?
then google., say you want KYB struts
google , "KYB ecatalog"

there catalog is the only true authoritative source for THEIR, part. (don't blindly trust autostores to get this correct. many dont)
1st google hit, (amazing right?,)

http://showmetheparts.com/kyb/

works for every maker of after market parts!
and if not, its China no name junk. (brand "som-ting-wong" (or all that crap sold on Alibaba..clone junk?)?
all serious makers have and ecat. all do..... or are junk or cloners of junk

why read the ecats?
1: get the right part, is #1
2: to see if they have choices, like (good ,better and best) or racing class. some parts, are adjustable and cost more..
3: see what years it fits.
4: in some cases, see what other cars it fits.
5: compare warranty's? and more....

keep in mind, there is no limits today on the amount of useless clone parts sold,
real parts are engineered, not cloned. not knocked off.

in my case
i go to napa
buy the part and it fits.
in your case
there is no NAPA.
so must import parts, and pay a huge duty tax
so doing this home work first, save's what ? shipping 3 times, and tax what ,3 times..???(got export tax too?.)
sure..

in my case wrong parts, is 1mile trip back to NAPA.
totally different deal
good luck.

Hey sir, hope all is Ok. Yes back to my question I was only referring to those bushings. But thanks for the how to on the other parts. I just did my buggy's front suspension and even though I took me some time and effort, I pulled it off. Will send you pics later. And yes Honda used a special tools now not found anywhere. Thats why it took me some effort.

if i had used the correct tool, i could have ,regressed my path, using old balls and drive.
see?

Hahah, many time that dog has bit my behind, so for sure, I always keep the old around just in case.

As for the parts, (what you saw in the screenshot from part list) Im going Moog and yes that what I do, I check e-catalogs just like you advised me before. With Rock Auto, no duties at all, just a little bit more of what one would pay for S/H to MIA, and all thru USPS. If it don't fit, RA return program its excellent!! Happened twice to me with them, both times they sent wrong part with correct number (I guess someone got mixed-up at the warehouse?) Problem is more downtime if car is not in driving conditions.

OK. Ill check those fitments and hopefully all will be Ok.

Gracias!!!