Stripped bolts on harmonic balancer

[droflex]

1989 Sidekick 1.6L Auto.

I've been trying to replace the water pump.

After reading-up on how to do it someone had said that the bolts holding the harmonic balancer on were 8mm. Not. On this car they are 5mm allen head.

I used a brand new allen head socket attached to a rachet and worked it slow so as not to strip them out.

Out of three bolts (so far) two have striped.

Can someone tell me how to get those stripped bolts out please?



Thanks!

[zukitrek]

Wow, Im so sorry. The location is very hard to do it properly. I don't remember mine as being Allen though. Pulling motor out or removing radiator for best clearance could let you use some kind of vise grip to grab bolt head and hopefully turn it loose? Again so sorry for this. Best of lucks!!

---

Well one other thing would be to lock flywheel somehow, then loosen the crank cog nut and remove as a whole, but I guess belt cover would have to be destroyed or something?

[fixkick]

Hello : and welcome
yes those are not stock screws, but are ok.
the stock screws are non ISO screws, ISO 6mm use 10mm hex heads
the susuki screws are custom 8mm head screws, and if lost, very hard to get
so all mechanics try ISO screws, then that fails the heads hit the pulley bell. oops
so that leaves allen or torx as good choices, not philips.
------------------end sordid history --------------------------------------------

2 more choices number one tops list
1: leave them alone ! service belt as though they don't exist.
2: or
if it was mine, id take it off. belt off first.
then pulley larg 17mm huge bolt next
then on the bench work it over. (10x more easy here)

first lots of pen oil, and tiny vise grips, can you work then loose.
torch the screw head, very hot and use grips.

method 3>?
drill each head off
and buy a new cog and new hex bolts and this time use antisieze.

the parts are listed here. (the table at bottom of page) the stock bolts 8mm heads took a machined 1/4" drive socket to fit, (modified) i dont recommend stock bolts here.
I'd go torx (6mm)

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/damage/index.html

the new cogs in same list. 12631-86500 for 89/90 8v TBI. G16a

also with heads drilled out, Pop gone
the old bolts can be attacked again in the cog.

[droflex]

Thanks. It looks like I'm going to have to remove the 17mm. I don't have an impact gun anymore.

Is there an easy way to lock up the engine without crawling under to lock the flywheel (my back can't take that)?

[fixkick]

Thanks. It looks like I'm going to have to remove the 17mm. I don't have an impact gun anymore.

Is there an easy way to lock up the engine without crawling under to lock the flywheel (my back can't take that)?

use 1/2" drive breaker bar. 94ft/lbs is spec, torque , and takes maybe max 150 to crack it loose, if at spec. now, many are not, and have damaged key slot.
but locking the transmission is real pain.
only way is at the front clutch inspection port

here is my lock page.
every way, but loose, errr,,, off.

[droflex]

Thanks, I got the large bolt out but now I need to find a pully puller.

Incidentally, I found a youtube video that showed the redneck way of breaking the bolt loose. Worked great.

Here's the vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6SFBg7_dg

[fixkick]

oaky dokey

[droflex]

Ok, I got the pulley off. Now the timing belt cover is off and the timing belt is hanging loose. I haven't moved it.

If I don't move the upper gear or the crank and just replace the water pump now can I assume it will be timed correctly when the lower gear is put back on?

This is the scary part.

P.S. I still need to get those five bolts out that hold the pulleys together and replace them right? I don't see any other way of putting the timing belt on the lower gear.

And, you said to use anti-seize on them. What is the torque spec on those 5 bolts? The large bolt is suppose to be 94 lbs.

[droflex]

Well that was a lot of fun getting that all apart.

Now I'm putting everything back together and found out the new water pump has threads to attach the fan but the old water pump has studs.

[fixkick]

hi
did read the tbelt page, fixkick.com?
the belt must be tension correctly or it will fail set too tight or loose. per the instructions; (my way, FSM way, and comes with belt page is there)
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt8v.html


the studs come off the old pump using the double nut trick, ever seen that, using 2 nuts , jam them the off the lower one? and stud comes out?

Well that was a lot of fun getting that all apart.

Now I'm putting everything back together and found out the new water pump has threads to attach the fan but the old water pump has studs.

the belt is tensioned with loose lash (valve rockers set loose)
and 2 turn clockwise with the idler loose the clock the idle stud.
freezing the tension for 60,000 more miles
that is all there is to it.

the bottom cog bolts 6mm will be a pain to fix. id buy new cog. and start fresh.
with new bolts. and using antiseize compound on the new threads so they never seize again. (sold in catchup like packs at all major autostores in the check out lane)