Static Ticking Noise - Fuel Injector??

[sina27]

Hello, got a 96 Tracker 2WD softtop, 5 speed manual transmission.

I've noticed that after the car is warm, I hear a very weird static, intermittent "ticking" sound. The sound usually starts ticking as soon as I press the gas pedal from 0 to 1/4 throttle. Anytime I'm past 1/2 throttle, it immediately goes away. Every now and then, when the car is not moving and in neutral, the sound starts right up and ticks for about 5 seconds before immediately stopping
The sound ticks at the same frequency and loudness, and sounds almost electronic (does not sound mechanical at all). Sometimes I can even control the sound when driving slowly (no throttle no sound, suddenly press gas a bit, and sounds immediately starts). I'm thinking it is not mechanical because the sound does not fluctuate with RPM. The sound seems to come from from in front of the passenger side dash, around the engine. I can't locate the sound perfectly because the sound mostly comes on when I'm driving.

SO - I'm thinking that maybe the sound could be my fuel injector(s)? There are 4 injectors, and I was thinking of replacing them.
I found these injectors on Motor Man (can anyone vouch for the condition of these? are they refurbished? They are only 35 dollars each):
https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/Ni...P-470.html
I would also get the injector O ring kit from Beck Arnley, seen here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049Z...0DER&psc=1]

When replacing the injectors - I would depressurize the fuel system, then remove as described in the manual. Would I have to drain the coolant and remove the throttle body as well?

Thank You
Sina

[fixkick]

why guess?
have shop find it, they will use 2 men never 1, as one is unsafe, mostly.
and one cant find it, easy. use 2 persons.
or use a cheap electronic stethoscope and listen to each injector and go, gee this is not it. all in minutes work even a dirt cheap, mechanics $5 pure simple mechanical (doctors style, near) only stethoscope works on injector, so very easy on any G16B.

finding noise can be very hard, there are lots of sources.
loose parts on the engine, sure. check bolts yet?
no 4wd parts to make noise, as is common.
brake pads bad. oops,. and have noise makers to tell you the pads are near gone!!!
lightly press brakes hear noise bingo.
wheel bearings front bad, super common this old. most 96 cars are off the road so this car is OLD.
first is to discover is noise in cab or out of cab. (takes 2 persons do to that safely.)
if inside again 2 persons, you can have person 2 use rubber hose to his ear and move the hoes all over under dash, you cant do that driving, see?
inspect brakes, for loose parts. bad parts, even cracked rotors can tick and are super dangerous. to drive it. brakes really are #1 after gas leaks and brake fluid leaks,
even a bad water pump makes noise and the 60k mile caM BELT DO YOU IGNORE IT? OR IS THE FRONT COVER TO IT LIKE A SLOTTED EAT UP SKELETON.
DOOR NOISES LOOSE GLASS, WIPER NOISES. EVEN OFF.
my best guess is it is not the engine. at all.
even the silly plastic thing, at end of shifter shaft, goes bad, turns to dust. and then the shifter makes noise based on CHAOS, no rhime or reasons just does
due to loose in the socket there.
bad drive shift u-joint, this old, sure. and can make noises only under certain driving special loading factors (hills, coasting , load, accel, or deccel.)

the electronic stethoscope $30
https://www.google.com/search?q=steelman...shop&cad=h

the $5 is here.
https://www.google.com/search?q=steelman...shop&cad=h

my noise page is here
i could talk noise all day and not repeat. 3000 parts on the car and even 2 parts can do this funny collusion deal. hummmm complex noise can be.
http://www.fixkick.com/NOISE.html

The source is #1 LOCATION locations Location,, #1
I have even driven my steelman microphone on 10 or more places on a car. 1 at time.
even axle ends, injectors, engine block, trans casing, suspension parts, all parts but tires and prop shafts, i can clamp on my microphone.
this is doing noises only moving.
ive even pulled fuse to find noises, even that damn dash alarm box, for seatbelts. I unplug it to be sure it is not IT.
you can pull any fuse, but , NOT IGcoil and FI(RF finder box) and not stall the engine.

Hello, got a 96 Tracker 2WD softtop, 5 speed manual transmission.

I've noticed that after the car is warm, I hear a very weird static, intermittent "ticking" sound.
The sound usually starts ticking as soon as I press the gas pedal from 0 to 1/4 throttle. (only driving??????)

Anytime I'm past 1/2 throttle, it immediately goes away.
Every now and then, when the car is not moving and in neutral, (so it does make noise parked or not?)

the sound starts right up and ticks for about 5 seconds before immediately stopping?? (under what conditions this)

The sound ticks at the same frequency and loudness (at any RPM parked, at any RPM movinng and same in any gear, all this matters)


, and sounds almost electronic (does not sound mechanical at all). (why assume that?ever, we find it first the say that)


Sometimes I can even control the sound when driving slowly (no throttle no sound, suddenly press gas a bit, and sounds immediately starts).
I'm thinking it is not mechanical because the sound does not fluctuate with RPM. so if this is true is not injectors see? they fire faster, and longer under more engine load and RPM)

The sound seems to come from from in front of the passenger side dash, around the engine. why work alone, im so confused? one at drives seat
person 2 hood up, and you forcing it to make noise parked, if you can , no better way exists if car is parked, as a moving car is very dangerous to diagnose moving for SURE NOISE.


I can't locate the sound perfectly because the sound mostly comes on when I'm driving. (only ? are You SURE?)

SO - I'm thinking that maybe the sound could be my fuel injector(s)? There are 4 injectors, and I was thinking of replacing them.
I found these injectors on Motor Man (can anyone vouch for the condition of these? are they refurbished? They are only 35 dollars each):
https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/Ni...P-470.html
I would also get the injector O ring kit from Beck Arnley, seen here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049Z...0DER&psc=1]

When replacing the injectors - I would depressurize the fuel system, then remove as described in the manual. Would I have to drain the coolant and remove the throttle body as well?

Thank You
Sina

[sina27]

Thanks for the reply.
I think it is just hard to diagnose and find the source because the sound only rarely ever starts ticking when the car is parked. Most of the time it ticks when the car is moving (in gear, a few thousand RPM, when I press down on the throttle a bit).
So even with two people the it would be hard because I cant be looking under the hood while the car is in motion.
The ticking itself is just so static, and I can damn near control whether it ticks or not by pressing my foot on the gas. So to me, that rules out some of the potential mechanicals sounds (brakes, bearings, etc). The fact that I can control the sounds with my foot when the car is in motion made me assume that the source is fuel delivery related.
Like I said, only very rarely does the ticking start when the car is parked and idling

If I start pulling fuses to test - do you mean I pull a fuse, drive around, and see if the sound persists? Which fuses should I pull? Some of them under the steering wheel? Or the fuses under the hood?

why guess?
have shop find it, they will use 2 men never 1, as one is unsafe, mostly.
and one cant find it, easy. use 2 persons.
or use a cheap electronic stethoscope and listen to each injector and go, gee this is not it. all in minutes work even a dirt cheap, mechanics $5 pure simple mechanical (doctors style, near) only stethoscope works on injector, so very easy on any G16B.

finding noise can be very hard, there are lots of sources.
loose parts on the engine, sure. check bolts yet?
no 4wd parts to make noise, as is common.
brake pads bad. oops,. and have noise makers to tell you the pads are near gone!!!
lightly press brakes hear noise bingo.
wheel bearings front bad, super common this old. most 96 cars are off the road so this car is OLD.
first is to discover is noise in cab or out of cab. (takes 2 persons do to that safely.)
if inside again 2 persons, you can have person 2 use rubber hose to his ear and move the hoes all over under dash, you cant do that driving, see?
inspect brakes, for loose parts. bad parts, even cracked rotors can tick and are super dangerous. to drive it. brakes really are #1 after gas leaks and brake fluid leaks,
even a bad water pump makes noise and the 60k mile caM BELT DO YOU IGNORE IT? OR IS THE FRONT COVER TO IT LIKE A SLOTTED EAT UP SKELETON.
DOOR NOISES LOOSE GLASS, WIPER NOISES. EVEN OFF.
my best guess is it is not the engine. at all.
even the silly plastic thing, at end of shifter shaft, goes bad, turns to dust. and then the shifter makes noise based on CHAOS, no rhime or reasons just does
due to loose in the socket there.
bad drive shift u-joint, this old, sure. and can make noises only under certain noses.

the elecrnic stethoscope $30
https://www.google.com/search?q=steelman...shop&cad=h

the $5 is here.
https://www.google.com/search?q=steelman...shop&cad=h

my noise page is here
i could talk noise all day and not repeat. 3000 parts on the car and even 2 parts can do this funny collusion deal. hummmm complex noise can be.
http://www.fixkick.com/NOISE.html

The source is #1 LOCATION locations Location,, #1
I have even driven my steelman microphone on 10 or more places on a car. 1 at time.
even axle ends, injectors, engine block, trans casing, suspension parts, all parts but tires and prop shafts, i can clamp on my microphone.
this is doing noises only moving.
ive even pulled fuse to find noises, even that damn dash alarm box, for seatbelts. I unplug it to be sure it is not IT.
you can pull any fuse, but , NOT IGcoil and FI(RF finder box) and not stall the engine.

Hello, got a 96 Tracker 2WD softtop, 5 speed manual transmission.

I've noticed that after the car is warm, I hear a very weird static, intermittent "ticking" sound.
The sound usually starts ticking as soon as I press the gas pedal from 0 to 1/4 throttle. (only driving??????)

Anytime I'm past 1/2 throttle, it immediately goes away.
Every now and then, when the car is not moving and in neutral, (so it does make noise parked or not?)

the sound starts right up and ticks for about 5 seconds before immediately stopping?? (under what conditions this)

The sound ticks at the same frequency and loudness (at any RPM parked, at any RPM movinng and same in any gear, all this matters)


, and sounds almost electronic (does not sound mechanical at all). (why assume that?ever, we find it first the say that)


Sometimes I can even control the sound when driving slowly (no throttle no sound, suddenly press gas a bit, and sounds immediately starts).
I'm thinking it is not mechanical because the sound does not fluctuate with RPM. so if this is true is not injectors see? they fire faster, and longer under more engine load and RPM)

The sound seems to come from from in front of the passenger side dash, around the engine. why work alone, im so confused? one at drives seat
person 2 hood up, and you forcing it to make noise parked, if you can , no better way exists if car is parked, as a moving car is very dangerous to diagnose moving for SURE NOISE.


I can't locate the sound perfectly because the sound mostly comes on when I'm driving. (only ? are You SURE?)

SO - I'm thinking that maybe the sound could be my fuel injector(s)? There are 4 injectors, and I was thinking of replacing them.
I found these injectors on Motor Man (can anyone vouch for the condition of these? are they refurbished? They are only 35 dollars each):
https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/Ni...P-470.html
I would also get the injector O ring kit from Beck Arnley, seen here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049Z...0DER&psc=1]

When replacing the injectors - I would depressurize the fuel system, then remove as described in the manual. Would I have to drain the coolant and remove the throttle body as well?

Thank You
Sina

[fixkick]

well since it ticked 1 time not moving that means it's not the suspension or driveline behind the clutch.
a clutch can in fact tick, even parked, even in Neutral or all the time or only when it wants to (picture in your mind parts cracked inside there, or warped)
not axles, no wheels/tires or brakes, not parked its not, not prop shafts (unless the u-joint bearings is so shot it vibrates and rattles like babies rattle.)

I grab both prop shaft ends at the joint and man handle them to see of they move in illegal ways. (loose) it can move front and back a bit and turn but not side to side 360degrees or the ujoint is shot. (picture engine shakes then bell the 5speed box and its tail shaft moving and Ujoint rattling, YAH seen many.

the $5 tool in 5 minutes work crosses off all 4 injectors. if they all sound good and THE same they are ok.... be a pain to replace them for no gain, and expensive.
the 2 persons I told you , the 2nd person can in fact do lots of things, here it is again
person 2 can use a rubber hose to his hear moving car and moving hose, under dash. top , vents etc.
person 2, can use the electronic stethoscope and head phones ($5 cheap that phones) the STEELman, clamp microhone somewhere drive, 2nd man listens for ticks not normal.
person 2 can hang head out window, and say, omg its out here. that sound.
Person 2 can remove hood on car, hang head out the window (on safe road) and go gee with hood off the sound is now HUGE outside and up front.
Person 2, hell its rag top he can stand on the seat and list over windshied and go gee, i here it in the engine bay.
or do all that with steelman ,for $30 and time.

ever do the 60k mile cam belt???? if not why? it will shred and will make noise at unpredictable RPMs. ever to the belt, cam, or running it till it snaps and a long walk home?

The engine shakes on this car as it's 4 cylinder and all shake badly lacking the Engine block silence shaft (counter balance'r shaft) so if any thing on the car is loose.
it vibrates at the engine shake rate, or misfire rate worse, ever pluck a Guitar string and see the others move, a bit, in what we call sympathetic vibration.?

sounds telegraph in machines to, a noise moves down a body part or drive shaft and makes noise at the other end. just like 2 tin cans on a string as telephone. (kid DIY toy)
In a shop they RACK the car so the wheels are off the ground then person 1 drives car in the air. (virtual driving)
person 2 (insurance paid in full,lol) finds the noise.
one way to do this 10 times safer, is to do the rack test, connect the STEELMAN mic. (one model has 4 mikes) and we connect to things that can make noise that are not spinning, (lots)
and we listen standing back safely, person 1 in car is driving like a maniac going nowhere at all. see?

one time we saw this and only a left turn make noise. found harness band clamp on the harness just above the bell hits bell only in left turns. found on a rack , 5 shops gave up.
one more failure, , almost new car 2010 in 2015, big jeep. (now mine cheap)_
seller has car cheaper to sell, dirt cheap , seller thinks it deep bad problem , due to very odd and nasty
noise.
i find it in 5mins, the last derp did spark plugs had to loosen the AC compressor. and forget to torque 1 bolt. what horrible sound that made
I found it with a lever trick i use my wonder bar and pry things, engine running, (with great care) even find bad engine mounts this way with 2x4 board prying the whole engine left then right.
same as loose exhaust header on new engine sounded like MAIN bearing bad, and are new. almost pee'd pants, then....and my fault .and 15min fix.

and last the G16b that makes horrible noise. but ONLY when it wants and only with lots of throttle actions. (yes engine vibs)
the rear mount on the huge aluminum induction pipe on 96 G16b the back mount broke off, and the cracked mount kisses, and well again, makes noise only when IT WANTS to.

3000 parts to rattle, that is all I think of, at moments like this. and many do.

if you set all brakes.
then in reverse or 1st gear, try to move the car, (but can't) using only the clutch and brakes hold the car.
the clutch will get to hot, but do it for say 3 seconds rest 1min and repeat, can you make the noise by using the clutch as a DYNO load? like?
on AT this is called the stall test. on 5speed it is clutch torture. but can find noises and as I told you 2 men, one with moving ears, and you at clutch.
the checks are endless. for noise, and many are dangerous an guessing 4 injectors out of 3000 parts, is a shot in the dark IMO

[fixkick]

one guy went near mad, and the license plate was loose. sad to watch him..
he started by jamming wood wedges in every thing he could think off, and ended at the license plate,dang.

[fixkick]

the TB has 2 water hoses. at bottom . cold start idle IAC.
up high in the IAC.
so only drain coolant a tiny bit and those hoses are now above water grade.
Those 2 hose are the 2 highest hoses as is the 2 on the AIr Induction water heater to the left (driver is left)
I only drain a bit, of the coolant, 10 quarts it is, so 2 quarts to drain.
or remove hose and plug it fast with bolt.
if you loses a cup of coolant put back 50% premix.

[fixkick]

the 4 injectors are here.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_60.html

putting all back here, every part of engine, at step before induction re HANG.