Starts, runs 30 seconds, then dies

[94TrackerDriver]

Hello, I have a 1994 Tracker 2wd 8 valve. I bought it a few months back, after driving it home, it would not start back up. Been working on it since with no luck. At this time, after sitting for a day or 2, it starts right up and runs for about 30 seconds then dies. Crank again and nothing (until at least a day later). When it first starts it runs smooth then stumbles and dies like running out of gas. Looking down the throttle body, fuel looks the same though (as it dies). No SES light (or codes). Have already swapped out the distributor, plugs, wires, ignition module, fuel regulator, fuel filter, MAP sensor. Removed and cleaned the throttle body. Checked the fuel pressure and it is good (can hear pump run when turning key on). Gone through the vacuum lines and most of the grounds I could find. Exhaust was terrible when I got it with a huge leak at the manifold/pipe donut. fixed leaks and deleted the cat convert (exhaust complete going out the back though).

Thanks for the great website / forum, wealth of information to say the least!!

94TrackerDriver

[fixkick]

Hello, I have a 1994 Tracker 2wd 8 valve. I bought it a few months back, after driving it home, it would not start back up. Been working on it since with no luck. At this time, after sitting for a day or 2, it starts right up and runs for about 30 seconds then dies. Crank again and nothing (until at least a day later). When it first starts it runs smooth then stumbles and dies like running out of gas. Looking down the throttle body, fuel looks the same though (as it dies). No SES light (or codes). Have already swapped out the distributor, plugs, wires, ignition module, fuel regulator, fuel filter, MAP sensor. Removed and cleaned the throttle body. Checked the fuel pressure and it is good (can hear pump run when turning key on). Gone through the vacuum lines and most of the grounds I could find. Exhaust was terrible when I got it with a huge leak at the manifold/pipe donut. fixed leaks and deleted the cat convert (exhaust complete going out the back though). Good test that no melted CAT test , bravo that)

Thanks for the great website / forum, wealth of information to say the least!!

94TrackerDriver,. no transmission stated sadly/

why replace all that spark stuff if a simple spark passes on all cylinders? \
but this fact here tells you it has fuel, Looking down the throttle body, fuel looks the same though (as it dies).
so is  only 2 things, dead spark or the cam belt slipped.
All G16 any time they mess up, for any reason, and for sure day 1 new, to your gargage,
the front crank pulley bolt, 17mm head bolt must be set RHT , to 94ft./lbs,  not 30 not 60 not 10, not 5, but 94 ft/lbs or the key will SHEAR and strip.  and then cranking it 50/50 chance it might start as the poor things jump around like crazy or not..
when the engine fails we check spark, no more easy car in the world is so easy to do on this 8valve engine with spark plugs in FULL VIEW>
if that fails the spark is gone. (we work spark then) if spark is good with test spark plug new connected. to spark wire,
the next steps is compression test, a $20 tool at harbor fright.(pun)

The CAM belt is only good for 60k,miles,  tad longer but why walk home, do the service, as stated in the manual..
the compression is 160 not 100 no 50,  psi.  takes 5 min work on #1 front,  then do all 4,  if one looks ok..  2 and 3 or 4 can fail, and make things real bad, for sure vacuum bouncing. from burned valves. Intake.

1: injector injects as it dies,  so not fuel, even using spray test fuel proves this in minutes.
2: spark test, good or bad. then try all 4. using  test spark plug, gapped at .028" never use .045  as the machine that made them does (NGK does .045" new in the box>
3: spark passes ,  compression is next, after checking 17mm crank pulley bolt first. 

just 3 tests and total  cost $20 not $100 for parts. ever. (cap/rotor/wire set is given and is a tune up with new NGK plugs. etc.)

if test fuel passes(runs for sec)_, sprayed, we can then do pump tests would be next.

one other test is with diagnostic jumper in place
crank dead engine for full 5 seconds, CEL flash code 41 or 42 is BINGO.
does CEL flash 12 now? for sure dead and for sure 5 full seconds?

lit me explain the CEL, the check engine light codes, the ECU needs the crank to spin  a minimum number of turns to tell you some things are bad cracked, thus my 5 second rule.


facts on spark this 91 to 95 ECU on all kicks
the ECU makes all spark and all advance
like this,
CMP >>>>ECU>>>>ignitor >>>>coil , >cap >rotor wire set and 4 spark plugs.

any thing in this path will cause dread spark. or be intermittant..
The ECU does report CMP dead. and primary of COIL dead, for sure. I can demo that fact.

the ECU never knows spark made it to the spark plugs. nor if timed right.. (only you can get timing right..)
if found way off spark timing at dead engine, the cam belt or cog slipped. a Timing light sees that and DISTRB base bolt is not loss we know for  fact the cam is now slipped. (only why remains) one more $20 tool at harbor fright.(sic)


No SES light (or codes) what does that mean the lamp is dead, or?
the CEL/SES must glow at key on, if not lamp is bad or the ECU IS DEAD,  that is what the lamp means key on, ECU booted and is NOT DEAD>> now.
then with DIAG jumper in place code must 12 happen, at any time , keyon only, idling or even driving at 50MPH or any speed .  Keyon only is stored codes too.

All codes but 12 are bad, 51 is bad EGR,  higher numbers never good.
lower are catastrophic errors, 13 up.. means hard error, and must be addressed.

that is  it on no starts.   I think, good luck to you and the car both.  cheers,

[94TrackerDriver]

but this fact here tells you it has fuel, Looking down the throttle body, fuel looks the same though (as it dies).
so is  only 2 things, dead spark or the cam belt slipped. With the cam timing jumped, would it start right up and run VERY smoothly for 20 plus seconds (before dying) if the cam timing has slipped??
All G16 any time they mess up, for any reason, and for sure day 1 new, to your gargage,
the front crank pulley bolt, 17mm head bolt must be set RHT , to 94ft./lbs,  not 30 not 60 not 10, not 5, but 94 ft/lbs or the key will SHEAR and strip.  and then cranking it 50/50 chance it might start as the poor things jump around like crazy or not..
when the engine fails we check spark, no more easy car in the world is so easy to do on this 8valve engine with spark plugs in FULL VIEW>
if that fails the spark is gone. (we work spark then) if spark is good with test spark plug new connected. to spark wire,
the next steps is compression test, a $20 tool at harbor fright.(pun)

The CAM belt is only good for 60k,miles,  tad longer but why walk home, do the service, as stated in the manual..
the compression is 160 not 100 no 50,  psi.  takes 5 min work on #1 front,  then do all 4,  if one looks ok..  2 and 3 or 4 can fail, and make things real bad, for sure vacuum bouncing. from burned valves. Intake.  Again, would it start right up and run VERY smoothly for 20 plus seconds (before dying) if the compression is very low??


1: injector injects as it dies,  so not fuel, even using spray test fuel proves this in minutes.
2: spark test, good or bad. then try all 4. using  test spark plug, gapped at .028" never use .045  as the machine that made them does (NGK does .045" new in the box> Gapped the plugs at ,028"
3: spark passes ,  compression is next, after checking 17mm crank pulley bolt first. 

just 3 tests and total  cost $20 not $100 for parts. ever. (cap/rotor/wire set is given and is a tune up with new NGK plugs. etc.)

if test fuel passes(runs for sec)_, sprayed, we can then do pump tests would be next.

one other test is with diagnostic jumper in place
crank dead engine for full 5 seconds, CEL flash code 41 or 42 is BINGO.
does CEL flash 12 now? for sure dead and for sure 5 full seconds?
Bulb was burned out when I got it, but, good now. Have done the jumper several times after cranking and running for 30 seconds and have always got code "12".

lit me explain the CEL, the check engine light codes, the ECU needs the crank to spin  a minimum number of turns to tell you some things are bad cracked, thus my 5 second rule. Been doing this as described.


facts on spark this 91 to 95 ECU on all kicks
the ECU makes all spark and all advance
like this,
CMP >>>>ECU>>>>ignitor >>>>coil , >cap >rotor wire set and 4 spark plugs.

any thing in this path will cause dread spark. or be intermittant..
The ECU does report CMP dead. and primary of COIL dead, for sure. I can demo that fact. One of the few things that looked new was the coil. Even had an old coil in the glove box, so, I am guessing it is good (would also likely get a code?).

the ECU never knows spark made it to the spark plugs. nor if timed right.. (only you can get timing right..)
if found way off spark timing at dead engine, the cam belt or cog slipped. a Timing light sees that and DISTRB base bolt is not loss we know for  fact the cam is now slipped. (only why remains) one more $20 tool at harbor fright.(sic)


No SES light (or codes) what does that mean the lamp is dead, or? Changed the bulb, it is lighting up during cranking/key on.
the CEL/SES must glow at key on, if not lamp is bad or the ECU IS DEAD,  that is what the lamp means key on, ECU booted and is NOT DEAD>> now.
then with DIAG jumper in place code must 12 happen, at any time , keyon only, idling or even driving at 50MPH or any speed .  Keyon only is stored codes too. With jumper in place have only got code 12.

All codes but 12 are bad, 51 is bad EGR,  higher numbers never good.
lower are catastrophic errors, 13 up.. means hard error, and must be addressed.

that is  it on no starts.   I think, good luck to you and the car both.  cheers, Thank you very much for your HELP!!!!

Hello, I have a 1994 Tracker 2wd 8 valve. I bought it a few months back, after driving it home, it would not start back up. Been working on it since with no luck. At this time, after sitting for a day or 2, it starts right up and runs for about 30 seconds then dies. Crank again and nothing (until at least a day later). When it first starts it runs smooth then stumbles and dies like running out of gas. Looking down the throttle body, fuel looks the same though (as it dies). No SES light (or codes). Have already swapped out the distributor, plugs, wires, ignition module, fuel regulator, fuel filter, MAP sensor. Removed and cleaned the throttle body. Checked the fuel pressure and it is good (can hear pump run when turning key on). Gone through the vacuum lines and most of the grounds I could find. Exhaust was terrible when I got it with a huge leak at the manifold/pipe donut. fixed leaks and deleted the cat convert (exhaust complete going out the back though). Good test that no melted CAT test , bravo that)

Thanks for the great website / forum, wealth of information to say the least!!

94TrackerDriver,. no transmission stated sadly/

why replace all that spark stuff if a simple spark passes on all cylinders? \
but this fact here tells you it has fuel, Looking down the throttle body, fuel looks the same though (as it dies).
so is  only 2 things, dead spark or the cam belt slipped.
All G16 any time they mess up, for any reason, and for sure day 1 new, to your gargage,
the front crank pulley bolt, 17mm head bolt must be set RHT , to 94ft./lbs,  not 30 not 60 not 10, not 5, but 94 ft/lbs or the key will SHEAR and strip.  and then cranking it 50/50 chance it might start as the poor things jump around like crazy or not..
when the engine fails we check spark, no more easy car in the world is so easy to do on this 8valve engine with spark plugs in FULL VIEW>
if that fails the spark is gone. (we work spark then) if spark is good with test spark plug new connected. to spark wire,
the next steps is compression test, a $20 tool at harbor fright.(pun)

The CAM belt is only good for 60k,miles,  tad longer but why walk home, do the service, as stated in the manual..
the compression is 160 not 100 no 50,  psi.  takes 5 min work on #1 front,  then do all 4,  if one looks ok..  2 and 3 or 4 can fail, and make things real bad, for sure vacuum bouncing. from burned valves. Intake.

1: injector injects as it dies,  so not fuel, even using spray test fuel proves this in minutes.
2: spark test, good or bad. then try all 4. using  test spark plug, gapped at .028" never use .045  as the machine that made them does (NGK does .045" new in the box>
3: spark passes ,  compression is next, after checking 17mm crank pulley bolt first. 

just 3 tests and total  cost $20 not $100 for parts. ever. (cap/rotor/wire set is given and is a tune up with new NGK plugs. etc.)

if test fuel passes(runs for sec)_, sprayed, we  can then do pump tests would be next.

one other test is with diagnostic jumper in place
crank dead engine for full 5 seconds, CEL flash code 41 or 42 is BINGO.
does CEL flash 12 now? for sure dead and for sure 5 full seconds?

lit me explain the CEL, the check engine light codes, the ECU needs the crank to spin  a minimum number of turns to tell you some things are bad cracked, thus my 5 second rule.


facts on spark this 91 to 95 ECU on all kicks
the ECU makes all spark and all advance
like this,
CMP >>>>ECU>>>>ignitor >>>>coil , >cap >rotor wire set and 4 spark plugs.

any thing in this path will cause dread spark. or be intermittant..
The ECU does report CMP dead. and primary of COIL dead, for sure. I can demo that fact.

the ECU never knows spark made it to the spark plugs. nor if timed right.. (only you can get timing right..)
if found way off spark timing at dead engine, the cam belt or cog slipped. a Timing light sees that and DISTRB base bolt is not loss we know for  fact the cam is now slipped. (only why remains) one more $20 tool at harbor fright.(sic)


No SES light (or codes) what does that mean the lamp is dead, or?
the CEL/SES must glow at key on, if not lamp is bad or the ECU IS DEAD,  that is what the lamp means key on, ECU booted and is NOT DEAD>> now.
then with DIAG jumper in place code must 12 happen, at any time , keyon only, idling or even driving at 50MPH or any speed .  Keyon only is stored codes too.

All codes but 12 are bad, 51 is bad EGR,  higher numbers never good.
lower are catastrophic errors, 13 up.. means hard error, and must be addressed.

that is  it on no starts.   I think, good luck to you and the car both.  cheers,

[fixkick]

but this fact here tells you it has fuel, Looking down the throttle body, fuel looks the same though (as it dies).
so is  only 2 things, dead spark or the cam belt slipped. With the cam timing jumped, would it start right up and run VERY smoothly for 20 plus seconds (before dying) if the cam timing has slipped??
All G16 any time they mess up, for any reason, and for sure day 1 new, to your gargage,
the front crank pulley bolt, 17mm head bolt must be set RHT , to 94ft./lbs,  not 30 not 60 not 10, not 5, but 94 ft/lbs or the key will SHEAR and strip.  and then cranking it 50/50 chance it might start as the poor things jump around like crazy or not..
when the engine fails we check spark, no more easy car in the world is so easy to do on this 8valve engine with spark plugs in FULL VIEW>
if that fails the spark is gone. (we work spark then) if spark is good with test spark plug new connected. to spark wire,
the next steps is compression test, a $20 tool at harbor fright.(pun)

The CAM belt is only good for 60k,miles,  tad longer but why walk home, do the service, as stated in the manual..
the compression is 160 not 100 no 50,  psi.  takes 5 min work on #1 front,  then do all 4,  if one looks ok..  2 and 3 or 4 can fail, and make things real bad, for sure vacuum bouncing. from burned valves. Intake.  Again, would it start right up and run VERY smoothly for 20 plus seconds (before dying) if the compression is very low??


1: injector injects as it dies,  so not fuel, even using spray test fuel proves this in minutes.
2: spark test, good or bad. then try all 4. using  test spark plug, gapped at .028" never use .045  as the machine that made them does (NGK does .045" new in the box> Gapped the plugs at ,028"
3: spark passes ,  compression is next, after checking 17mm crank pulley bolt first. 

just 3 tests and total  cost $20 not $100 for parts. ever. (cap/rotor/wire set is given and is a tune up with new NGK plugs. etc.)

if test fuel passes(runs for sec)_, sprayed, we can then do pump tests would be next.

one other test is with diagnostic jumper in place
crank dead engine for full 5 seconds, CEL flash code 41 or 42 is BINGO.
does CEL flash 12 now? for sure dead and for sure 5 full seconds?
Bulb was burned out when I got it, but, good now. Have done the jumper several times after cranking and running for 30 seconds and have always got code "12".

lit me explain the CEL, the check engine light codes, the ECU needs the crank to spin  a minimum number of turns to tell you some things are bad cracked, thus my 5 second rule. Been doing this as described.


facts on spark this 91 to 95 ECU on all kicks
the ECU makes all spark and all advance
like this,
CMP >>>>ECU>>>>ignitor >>>>coil , >cap >rotor wire set and 4 spark plugs.

any thing in this path will cause dread spark. or be intermittant..
The ECU does report CMP dead. and primary of COIL dead, for sure. I can demo that fact. One of the few things that looked new was the coil. Even had an old coil in the glove box, so, I am guessing it is good (would also likely get a code?).

the ECU never knows spark made it to the spark plugs. nor if timed right.. (only you can get timing right..)
if found way off spark timing at dead engine, the cam belt or cog slipped. a Timing light sees that and DISTRB base bolt is not loss we know for  fact the cam is now slipped. (only why remains) one more $20 tool at harbor fright.(sic)


No SES light (or codes) what does that mean the lamp is dead, or? Changed the bulb, it is lighting up during cranking/key on.
the CEL/SES must glow at key on, if not lamp is bad or the ECU IS DEAD,  that is what the lamp means key on, ECU booted and is NOT DEAD>> now.
then with DIAG jumper in place code must 12 happen, at any time , keyon only, idling or even driving at 50MPH or any speed .  Keyon only is stored codes too. With jumper in place have only got code 12.

All codes but 12 are bad, 51 is bad EGR,  higher numbers never good.
lower are catastrophic errors, 13 up.. means hard error, and must be addressed.

that is  it on no starts.   I think, good luck to you and the car both.  cheers, Thank you very much for your HELP!!!!

Hello, I have a 1994 Tracker 2wd 8 valve. I bought it a few months back, after driving it home, it would not start back up. Been working on it since with no luck. At this time, after sitting for a day or 2, it starts right up and runs for about 30 seconds then dies. Crank again and nothing (until at least a day later). When it first starts it runs smooth then stumbles and dies like running out of gas. Looking down the throttle body, fuel looks the same though (as it dies). No SES light (or codes). Have already swapped out the distributor, plugs, wires, ignition module, fuel regulator, fuel filter, MAP sensor. Removed and cleaned the throttle body. Checked the fuel pressure and it is good (can hear pump run when turning key on). Gone through the vacuum lines and most of the grounds I could find. Exhaust was terrible when I got it with a huge leak at the manifold/pipe donut. fixed leaks and deleted the cat convert (exhaust complete going out the back though). Good test that no melted CAT test , bravo that)

Thanks for the great website / forum, wealth of information to say the least!!

94TrackerDriver,. no transmission stated sadly/

why replace all that spark stuff if a simple spark passes on all cylinders? \
but this fact here tells you it has fuel, Looking down the throttle body, fuel looks the same though (as it dies).
so is  only 2 things, dead spark or the cam belt slipped.
All G16 any time they mess up, for any reason, and for sure day 1 new, to your gargage,
the front crank pulley bolt, 17mm head bolt must be set RHT , to 94ft./lbs,  not 30 not 60 not 10, not 5, but 94 ft/lbs or the key will SHEAR and strip.  and then cranking it 50/50 chance it might start as the poor things jump around like crazy or not..
when the engine fails we check spark, no more easy car in the world is so easy to do on this 8valve engine with spark plugs in FULL VIEW>
if that fails the spark is gone. (we work spark then) if spark is good with test spark plug new connected. to spark wire,
the next steps is compression test, a $20 tool at harbor fright.(pun)

The CAM belt is only good for 60k,miles,  tad longer but why walk home, do the service, as stated in the manual..
the compression is 160 not 100 no 50,  psi.  takes 5 min work on #1 front,  then do all 4,  if one looks ok..  2 and 3 or 4 can fail, and make things real bad, for sure vacuum bouncing. from burned valves. Intake.

1: injector injects as it dies,  so not fuel, even using spray test fuel proves this in minutes.
2: spark test, good or bad. then try all 4. using  test spark plug, gapped at .028" never use .045  as the machine that made them does (NGK does .045" new in the box>
3: spark passes ,  compression is next, after checking 17mm crank pulley bolt first. 

just 3 tests and total  cost $20 not $100 for parts. ever. (cap/rotor/wire set is given and is a tune up with new NGK plugs. etc.)

if test fuel passes(runs for sec)_, sprayed, we  can then do pump tests would be next.

one other test is with diagnostic jumper in place
crank dead engine for full 5 seconds, CEL flash code 41 or 42 is BINGO.
does CEL flash 12 now? for sure dead and for sure 5 full seconds?

lit me explain the CEL, the check engine light codes, the ECU needs the crank to spin  a minimum number of turns to tell you some things are bad cracked, thus my 5 second rule.


facts on spark this 91 to 95 ECU on all kicks
the ECU makes all spark and all advance
like this,
CMP >>>>ECU>>>>ignitor >>>>coil , >cap >rotor wire set and 4 spark plugs.

any thing in this path will cause dread spark. or be intermittant..
The ECU does report CMP dead. and primary of COIL dead, for sure. I can demo that fact.

the ECU never knows spark made it to the spark plugs. nor if timed right.. (only you can get timing right..)
if found way off spark timing at dead engine, the cam belt or cog slipped. a Timing light sees that and DISTRB base bolt is not loss we know for  fact the cam is now slipped. (only why remains) one more $20 tool at harbor fright.(sic)


No SES light (or codes) what does that mean the lamp is dead, or?
the CEL/SES must glow at key on, if not lamp is bad or the ECU IS DEAD,  that is what the lamp means key on, ECU booted and is NOT DEAD>> now.
then with DIAG jumper in place code must 12 happen, at any time , keyon only, idling or even driving at 50MPH or any speed .  Keyon only is stored codes too.

All codes but 12 are bad, 51 is bad EGR,  higher numbers never good.
lower are catastrophic errors, 13 up.. means hard error, and must be addressed.

that is  it on no starts.   I think, good luck to you and the car both.  cheers,

all good  quesitons there,
ever seen cam belt with inner cogs on belt stripped.
but the keyway on the lower cog, if SHEARED will  move arround,  good now, bad then good now bad next.  CHAOS is that. 
the compression test is a standard test.  takes 5 minute work on 1 cylinder, if 50PSI bingo.  
you need to learn what bottom cog can do, vast  failures here, nobody ever reads TSB,s  for the new bottom cog spec.  then proceed to wreck the crank snout.
the A/T trans makes this 10x worse, as the last guy who worked on the can not figure out how to lock the crank shaft, (there are 3 ways on the AT,my guess you have the 3speed.
a flywheel lock or a DIY front pulley lock both work, on A/T,  on MT we use 5th gear, and this works no tools needed for locking any MT box. the tires do the lock. to pavement./

the testing is simple;..
1: test fuel fails or not,  yes,  spray test fuel sold in can. 
2: ;spark test fails,  or not,  if not fail , the car runs on test fuel.
3: ok test fuel fails spark passes compression is next.

its just 3 tests to get in track no need for  new distributor,  that must be expensive, that.  

the engine runs intermittently , i get that, but you have never see, stripped belts or worst the lower cog key sheared..

IN BOTH cases,  engine dead,  the compression fails hard.  ( I am not telling you what is wrong only how to test,) gue$$ing can get real expensive fast. (beyond  a tune up)

The cat is gone, so that leaves out melted cat (blockage) so the engine can pump air and if the cam slips, IT CAN NOT DO THAT.
and  never assume it is good, a simple compression test,. dead engine, is FIRST> 
I guess you bought an Ignitor for the fire wall next to the COIL and AZ can't test those. now way. but now you have duracrap in the car.,,,, AZ junk.
guessing for repairs causes adding 2 or 3 more things wrong, not just one,

that is my opinion,  and never seen car I could not diagnose,/  (simple tools and simple tests all)
the secret is NOT ASSUME anything,  the answers is TESTING.   for sure engine dead, then is best to test, fixing running engines is way too hard...

really, the only hard part is , keeping it dead, if the engine stayed dead this is a cake walk diagnosis, for sure.!

[fixkick]

the compression is 160, x4
at 100PSI it runs, same compression as your lawn mower,
then at 50 it dies.. and floods..

the cam timing can jump around.. for mostly 2 reasons, but most die and stay dead but one in 100 might be loose enough to bounce around for sure cranking,
ever see this.
endless folks had this, its #1 all time bad deal on this car
and even the top cam cog rim cracks and does crazy stuff too. I have a page covers all that.
https://fixkick.com/t-belt/snouts/html/image_8.html

not saying this it, only that no body skips a compression test on any dead engine (at time of death)
IT can bounce around,,
case in point, car dies, and owner cranks it and is dead.
day 2, same, day 3,4,5,6 then it back fires (bam) and the belt moves to the other end. and WOW is starts (this is CHAOS,) expect that and win, catch compression low.. win.
60k mile per belt we can show you belts in 100 different odd conditions, no need to talk about them but cogs stripped , stretched belt and 1/ 2 shredded are all common. (or GONE..)
mostly the cam wants to retard, but can bounce back.

[94TrackerDriver]

I checked the compression and timing. The compression checked 75, 80, 90, 75 (cold of course not running). I put the engine at "0" on pulley and the distributor pointed at #4. Appeared the cam timing mark (top) was off 1 tooth. Everything point to timing off (1) tooth. Ordered gates timing belt kit, will arrive Thursday or Friday. Also pulled valve cover and #4 valves closed. Started to tear down further and 1 big problem. I am guessing on previous belt install, someone used false marks. The key (pin) is inline (opposite side) with the false mark. Maybe someone (or factory?) assembled cam and timing gear using false mark location instead of one with dimple on the spoke? Everything looks like your final assembly photo with the exception of false mark at top (key/pin aligned 180 degrees from false mark). Just to make clear, the key is not aligned with the correct mark with dimple, it is aligned with the false mark (opposite side). Question is, is it OK to reassemble as it is as I do not want to remove the timing gear from the cam and move the key and reassemble if I don't have to.

Thanks for your help!!!

[fixkick]

I checked the compression and timing. The compression checked 75, 80, 90, 75 (cold of course not running). I put the engine at "0" on pulley and the distributor pointed at #4. Appeared the cam timing mark (top) was off 1 tooth. Everything point to timing off (1) tooth. Ordered gates timing belt kit, will arrive Thursday or Friday. Also pulled valve cover and #4 valves closed. Started to tear down further and 1 big problem. I am guessing on previous belt install, someone used false marks. The key (pin) is inline (opposite side) with the false mark. Maybe someone (or factory?) assembled cam and timing gear using false mark location instead of one with dimple on the spoke? Everything looks like your final assembly photo with the exception of false mark at top (key/pin aligned 180 degrees from false mark). Just to make clear, the key is not aligned with the correct mark with dimple, it is aligned with the false mark (opposite side). Question is, is it OK to reassemble as it is as I do not want to remove the timing gear from the cam and move the key and reassemble if I don't have to.

Thanks for your help!!!

see my cam timing pages, both engines are covered, fixkick.com type in the search box Tbelt. then find 8valves.
the belts cam is  timed on #4 firing on all G16 engines. (SOHC) the distributor is timed and #1 firing, per my page. on distribs. and the manual.

if those compressions test were with the throttle blocked open 1/2 or more then that DATA screams cam timed wrong. 
timed wrong engine is now a lawn mower engine, weak,  my 5hp mower is 100PSI.
The false marks are super documented on my page, again,  see here.
no the last owner did that never once at suzuki ever, the dyno test engine, and lost more tests, sorry, good guess though.
26year  car with factory belt, NO WAY possible, no way.sorry/

there are 2 false marks, well for this engine, my page tells all this tells what the other engine it is used on ,a G13B twin cam.
there are  cam key false mark and the spoke false marks
i bet the last guy did all that wrong then tried to fix all that with setting the belt wrong in the blind hope of TWO WRONGS = a RIGHT.


16v belt 


the photo below is not for any 8v made, it 16v and  all "I" marks are wrong,
the "I" marks are for the G13B and K swift engine ok/  on one side of the twin cam dead only , "I' means Intake cam G13B
16v below.




now the 8v
 same deal here same reasons this cog is in fact used On TWO engine, not just yours.  60a stamp is  the only one way works, no matter how you want to cheat.
gee the 8v has nice hole in the cam shaft uptop. with dowel or drift pin you lock the cam easy as pie and in the manual that.


found it.... the drift pin lockup, from REAL FSM. factory service manual. means. not seen on the 16v.

[fixkick]

keep in mine the crank turns 2 times for one cam turn (2:1 ratio , and the engine fires very 90degrees of cam turn. or 180deg of crank.
so #1 and #4 use the same pulley zero mark.
if you remove the head #1 and #4 pistons are at TDC together, so the crank never knows which is firing only the cam and distrib know this. and you timing it right.