Stall hot, P0400, P0505

[fixkick]

ok its a M/t I missed that. and your maf was weak
why not clean it?
all mafs get dirty from eating nasty fumes and dirt from car in front of you. all do. and the MAF on G16bs function at IDLE TO. (unlike other cars)
clean it with MAF spray, every 50k miles, its a service point to do , not in any factory book,.
a weak maf causes low fueling rates, if bad enough it can stall due to lean burn stall.
the ECu scan data will tall you if the maf is weak, see my maf graphic plots, on my MAF page.

d the car is not stalling anymore. But it is idling at 560 rpm. (i missed this post sorry)
no do not mess with that black cap TB screw,
this i duty cycle settings. Unless someone else messed i tup.
here are the screws.
Throttle VAlve TV.
1: TV stop screw never touch it, if the TV fly-plate is near .0005 (3zeros count em) inches, then this screw is not molested. leave it alone... is best.
2: the black cap duty screw on the top of TB>
this is duty adj.
duty cycle puts the ISC in the center of is range, (command authority)The ecu then can raise RPM +400 rpm or -400 rpm (crude unpublished spec. and depends on engine pumping losses,etc)
If at 560, on the OBD2 scanner, is it here too, ? seams yes, with 60 digits, not seen on dash.
you then check duty with a dUty meter.
i check across the 2 ISC wire pins, for 200hz, square wave that is perfectly in symmetry. with a scope or my FLuke meter that has DUTY mode.
if the duty is 50% at hot idle, then ok
if not change, it to 50 with that screw.
that is it.

btw 560 is ILLEGAL RPM , the ECU controls HOT RPM, when you see 560 that means, the ECU JUST LOST CONTROL OF THE ISC< that is all it means, why is more testing

the isc, i clean it and for 1sec, duration max. hit it with 12vdc across its pins.
to see if it clicks and opens 1/4"
default is closed, 12vdc is open
it draws 1amp current so do not leave it connected to a battery or 12vdc supply pack.
it will get hot and damage it, so just pulse it fast by touching leads like my video show.s
here
http://www.fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html#ISC

this is ALL IT DOES, no magic just a solenoid air valve with spring.

[fixkick]

is fuel pressure at spec.
if low, or a stuck open PFR
the engine goes lean, no matter what maf does.
the low pressure, causes low injection rates
and the ECU can not see those, no sensor on pressure until far far in the future.
so that is your job checking this first
i do that at the first sign of LEAN.
sure clean the maf.
also make sure the 02 swings at cruise. and at idle
if the 02 cant hold closed loop at idle, i fix this NOW. I find out why with more tests.
hope this helps you and others. good day and happy Holloween.

[fixkick]

after defeating EGR.
cure bad idle.
find cause.
a bad idle (or surging ) tells you the engine is not running right, Or the ISC is jammed.
ISC has 2 wires
and is on the front box plenum left side in front of throttle body.
The engine needs to be at 180f temps for idle controls to work. top rad hose, touch with hand if had flies off ouch, its at 180f or more, good. if not bad.
The ISC is not thermal but the IAC is, 100% thermal it its water supply must flow good , it not the engine RPM will SCREAM even 2000 rpm easy hot.

[fetcher]

To fulfill the detail requirements, the car is 1996 US Tracker with a California spec computer.
Your pages have lots of great information, I only wish to add how I solved my stalling problem.
Stupid since I should have cleaned that when I first got the car. I changed/cleaned and lubricated
all other worn/aged items but failed to do that.

[fixkick]

there are a huge list of things that cause bad idle
besides a simple sticking isc
gross misfiring, over 50 reasons or bogging, like low fuel pressure.
its a daunting process to find it.
what i do is add air to see if the ISC is failing , if added air , cures it and engine run ok, then it not misfiring doing it.
on the G16b that is not easy, i can only open the TV valve a tiny bit by hand say and see if added metered air help it.

[fixkick]

the maf is like $1000 at suzuki, over that.
the clones from china for $100 are junk.
best is clean it first. if the output voltages are low, from a distance. 6 inches back, do not use CRC maf spray, and direct the nozzle 1inch away from the very fragile hot wire.
do not.
but yes, spray it , count to 10 and repeat 3 times, this gets the coked up wire juicy and loose and the next clean flushes it away..
this technique is harmless.

[fixkick]

If I could not find a good MAF< cheap, used or ?
id buy this. its a top rebuilder in USA< and has ECUs too that are ALL 100% good, as most can not claim....

http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-...s%3a%3a%3a

they do not sell direct, this is a builder, not a seller.
to find them at best price, I use google. or duckduckgo , in fact.

here is one hit.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_p...acker.html

the first clone handed to me failed hard, it was never tested in the factory in china, hard proof of that.
here is my clone crap page
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/china-maf...d-maf.html

not the illegal, unprotected 7505 regulator, a hopeless, idea using that in any car, unless , using what I show in the page....cars are not easy keep electronics from blowing up.
load dumps, jumper cable madness, reversed, etc, AC surge spikes. and more....

if you buy the $100 maf (worth really 10 bucks) and it fails next week, now you know why, look inside, see those wrong parts?