Sidekick 4sp Auto TV Cable Issues.

[rupal]

I recently replaced the TV Cable on my 4sp (03-72LE\A44DE) Tranny.
I had to order the cable from Suzuki in Japan. It came with a little stopper that slips over the inner cable & i imagine is supposed to be crimped onto the inner cable somewhere...

According to the FSM the TV Cable adjustment should be based on that little stopper, but the stopper could be anywhere on the cable. So it does not make any sense to me.

I have tried the following procedure: Have throttle pedal fully depressed, & set the adjustment\locknut so that the inner cable is fully pulled out. when throttle is wide open.

When i have it like this it engages into R or D roughly (with a clunk sound) Also when the tranny shifts down from 2nd to 1st gear there is a clunk sound...

If i disconnect the cable from the throttle cam it shifts smoothly (without any clunking sound)

Could someone explain to me in a bit more detail what is the proper adjustment method ?

Thank You !

[rupal]

Also, i tried to follow this method: http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/slush/slid...stment.JPG
BUT it does not make sense to me... If you are pulling all the slack out of the cable then there should be no reason to
measure 0.8 - 1.5mm from the boot to a marker.

[fixkick]

that is correct, the FSM is noT clear at all on this adjustment.

cable end free
pull center wire until no slack (there is a spring in the transmission, (is that missing?)
and when you pull it out, but not move the spring in the trans, (tricky no?)
my guess is "pull with no slack is there"
set the mark at 1mm
the install it the cable.with same 1mm mark above as seen in photo 2.

think about the other end first. in the box.
tranny box.

see below.
spring 17 ?
most not be engaged, at all, only the slack is taken out of the cable. by hand.
then when the throttle moves, 1mm later part 20 moves.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/slush/slid.../4sp-3.jpg

as the TV moves so does part 20, in 1 to 1 ratio. such that 1/2 throttle part 20 is about at 1/2 open valve (it is a valve)
if set wrong shifting will be way late, too late means too high RPM and too high RPM means BANG SHIFTS.
with cable out, the car is granny shifted, super quick, and easy. but loss of power up hills and passing sure.

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/slush/OD-f...down_facts

[rupal]

OK...

Now it makes sense to me...
When i READ "pull all the slack out of the cable" in my head i assumed that meant to pull the cable all the way out (throttle valve fully open)
I now understand. Pull the slack so that there is no slack between the TV Cam Return Spring on the upper valve body, to the TV Cable.

I found this which is a better way of explaining it:

"Adjustment of Cable. [Abe Crombie/Dave Stevens] First make sure the cable is properly sitting in its groove in the throttle spindle. When properly adjusted, the cable clamp should be 2" from the cable end when the thottle is wide open and 1/32"-1/16" (1 mm) from the cable end when the throttle is closed, i.e. almost touching the rubber end cap. If someone has been playing with throttle body adjustments (throttle stop screw or linkage rod length) then the throttle spindle rest position may have changed and may be affecting kickdown cable adjustment.
The kickdown cable has no adjustment at the transmission end, it's fixed. All the adjustment is done under the hood at the throttle spindle. To adjust, loosen the 13mm cable housing jam nuts until there's plenty of slack in the cable. Apply some antiseize so the task is easier both now and in the future. Make sure you count the number of flats on the nuts so you can return to the original position if needed. Pluck the cable by lifting the open section, then let it snap back in. Listen carefully, and you'll hear the cam that the cable is attached to in the automatic transmission click up against its stop. You'll need a quiet environment for this to work. Try this a few times, so you'll know the sound. Now adjust slack out of the cable, keep testing by pulling and letting go of the cable, always listening for the click inside the transmission. As you take more and more slack out, there will be a point where you've tightened the cable just enough so the cam inside the transmission can no longer click up against the stop, because the tightened cable won't let the cam go back far enough. When you reach this point where you just stop hearing the cam click against its stop, the cable is adjusted properly. [Dave Stevens] When properly adjusted, you should not hear the pawl go thunk against its stop; the proper adjustment is just past the point where it faintly did go thunk. You can adjust this a little tighter or looser if desired, say by a few adjuster nut faces, to achieve slightly more aggressive or slightly smoother shifting."

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Glad someone on here posted this. I have removed the "slush pump 4 speed" cable and accelerator cable so many times i couldnt tell you where the baseline was. The manual is confusing as hell and i was pulling the entire cable out hoping i would find the ANOTHER marker further down the cable. mine is like 2 inches from the throttle body barrel attachment and i can swear the manual says to floor the accelerator cable to adjust. If the accelerator is to the floor that means the Tv cable is pulled. My adjustment marker can no where be close enough to 1mm to the boot no matter how loose my adjusting nuts in this configuration are. I read the explanation above and the statement about how many inches open and closed that helped me especially when you gave the example. i made sure when closed the marker was almost touching the rubber cap and it seems fine. I will do a full adjustment using ear and tightening within the day or two but just hearing this explanation really helped me out. THANK YOU!

[fixkick]

you can set it like you want for latter down shifts,
i think the maker is only on new cables from suzuki, I bet clones miss that step.
so long as the cable never block the TV open, you are free to tune it as you like it, for sure.
(3speed)
the 4speed, IDK , having it shift later may fool it.
I also think the 4sp , works many ways, (it will look at many things, TV cable , TV TPS angle, and engine RPM and ECU reported rpm/ load and shift ok.) theory.
the odd thing is the TV is really useless, as we see now , later and today it is gone.

Rpm , Throttle angle (driver demand) load is all that is needed (and what gear we are in and tail shaft RPM too)
all that is known even on your car. with no cable.
I think i read some where there is fall back if the cable breaks but not sure, never tried that.

cheers and thanks for sharing this, the book is for sure weak on this setting.