the rad full of AF is full, nothing else matters. but do not overfill the side overflow tank. keep in mind i cant see car act up. so was confused....
the side tanks job is to keep the rad full (vacuum action) and to handle the thermal expansion of the rad fluid, so if the side tank is overfilled then it will overload with AF and spill out that is due to overfilling side tank (hot), i only fill mine 1/2 full. the expansion is 0.7 quarts exactly hot, so the top of the expansion tank must never
have less than 0.7 quarts of air space on top of fluid in it.
fill rads with premix. until its full and burped of all air, 2 driving cycles, check rad cap neck, for full level cold. fill as needed. at rad cap hole only.
side tank is another matter (no bad hoses there)
i never attempt to mix AF in the car, ever, that is impossible. after all , lots of water is in the rear of jackets.
i add mix then later check percent with my 2 buck Prestone tool. (yellow tool with large suck bulb and scale)
if low, on percent, i add more pure mix. to the rad, (see end trick)
keep in mind most books say to drain block but most books fail to say how.? and the plug is under mounts or near impossible to remove.
and after a full flush the rear of block is at 100% pure tap water.
this tap water there, will reduce the 50% slightly say it's 1 or 2 quarts there, ? so 2 qt water and 8 premix.?
so 50% is more like 40% after a flush
if not flushed at all , that mixes 50 % new with old 50% , and nets, 50%
im only being careful here, as latitudes can be different. some run 60% in alaska.
see? so the percent is very very important. due to cold climates, for some folks.
ok so it not overheating, i thought not.
so this is all service related questions only. sorry ! but i think you overfilled the side tank.
----------------------------------service-----------------------------------------------------------------
first off,
drain the coolant,
then flush the system best you can with tap. water. get out all the junk you can. in the loop
and all those acids hiding in there, all engines create acid here. (from combustion by products)
then close the drain,
many pros drop the lower rad hose, to get as much of block water as possible and not to break the plastic silly drain. there. (a horror)
put the hose back on,, and drain closed.
fill the system with premix. 50% and side tank to 1/2.
fill it till rad is full, keep rad cap off. (if not in a hurry give it 1/2 hour, let the bleed hole work in the thermostat. and that tiny bypass tube in system.)
start engine 1min. (this is the burping thing)
stop it. is level dropped, add more premix.
repeat 2 times then let it run until the cap fill hole wants to overflow at top of engine, cap it fast.
let engine idle until 180F
stop engine, let it cool say below 140F (below burns hands temp) some books say room temp but in Arizona that be like 125F so....
warm to touch no pain, crack the rad cap. with rag and due care.
is it full or not, if not repeat above , cap back on , around the block 1 time. or until hot. come home let it cool and see if rad is full, it will be,
and must stay that way.
and now the trick if say its 40% now, (Prestone test) (due to pure water in block at get go) drain side tank and put in 1/2 full of pure AF.
this will enrich the mix so it comes closer to 50%
trick 2:
if thermostat is out? for service, and fully drained?
i pour 50%AF mix in to the Stat pocket , no Stat there. this gets the block 100% full . no air pockets, at all. a good trick.
then Stat in, and hoses back and per above. steps.
the side tanks job is to keep the rad full (vacuum action) and to handle the thermal expansion of the rad fluid, so if the side tank is overfilled then it will overload with AF and spill out that is due to overfilling side tank (hot), i only fill mine 1/2 full. the expansion is 0.7 quarts exactly hot, so the top of the expansion tank must never
have less than 0.7 quarts of air space on top of fluid in it.
fill rads with premix. until its full and burped of all air, 2 driving cycles, check rad cap neck, for full level cold. fill as needed. at rad cap hole only.
side tank is another matter (no bad hoses there)
i never attempt to mix AF in the car, ever, that is impossible. after all , lots of water is in the rear of jackets.
i add mix then later check percent with my 2 buck Prestone tool. (yellow tool with large suck bulb and scale)
if low, on percent, i add more pure mix. to the rad, (see end trick)
keep in mind most books say to drain block but most books fail to say how.? and the plug is under mounts or near impossible to remove.
and after a full flush the rear of block is at 100% pure tap water.
this tap water there, will reduce the 50% slightly say it's 1 or 2 quarts there, ? so 2 qt water and 8 premix.?
so 50% is more like 40% after a flush
if not flushed at all , that mixes 50 % new with old 50% , and nets, 50%
im only being careful here, as latitudes can be different. some run 60% in alaska.
see? so the percent is very very important. due to cold climates, for some folks.
ok so it not overheating, i thought not.
so this is all service related questions only. sorry ! but i think you overfilled the side tank.
----------------------------------service-----------------------------------------------------------------
first off,
drain the coolant,
then flush the system best you can with tap. water. get out all the junk you can. in the loop
and all those acids hiding in there, all engines create acid here. (from combustion by products)
then close the drain,
many pros drop the lower rad hose, to get as much of block water as possible and not to break the plastic silly drain. there. (a horror)
put the hose back on,, and drain closed.
fill the system with premix. 50% and side tank to 1/2.
fill it till rad is full, keep rad cap off. (if not in a hurry give it 1/2 hour, let the bleed hole work in the thermostat. and that tiny bypass tube in system.)
start engine 1min. (this is the burping thing)
stop it. is level dropped, add more premix.
repeat 2 times then let it run until the cap fill hole wants to overflow at top of engine, cap it fast.
let engine idle until 180F
stop engine, let it cool say below 140F (below burns hands temp) some books say room temp but in Arizona that be like 125F so....
warm to touch no pain, crack the rad cap. with rag and due care.
is it full or not, if not repeat above , cap back on , around the block 1 time. or until hot. come home let it cool and see if rad is full, it will be,
and must stay that way.
and now the trick if say its 40% now, (Prestone test) (due to pure water in block at get go) drain side tank and put in 1/2 full of pure AF.
this will enrich the mix so it comes closer to 50%
trick 2:
if thermostat is out? for service, and fully drained?
i pour 50%AF mix in to the Stat pocket , no Stat there. this gets the block 100% full . no air pockets, at all. a good trick.
then Stat in, and hoses back and per above. steps.
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