put my 8v motor back in my tracker won't start

[aarontupper]

So I pulled my 8v motor out of my tracker and had the bottom end rebuilt. TheN I put it back in and went to prime the oil pump and the starter ground was bad and it was making a noise that got higher in pitch then would go away so then it stopped and i fixed the ground and now it cranks and it won't start. The ignition timing is right I even followed the timing writeup on here. I have fuel and good bright spark but it won't start.

[fixkick]

first of all, welcome ! and will help you all I can.
what year? 89 or 95? (usa range)

spark timed right? using a timing light (light works running or not)
is the cam timed (belt) to #4 per FSM (factory service manual spec?)

is the crank cog bolt 17mm set to 94 foot/lbs, per TSB on topic? if not the key will shear.

the battery cable minus belongs on the starter mount bolt or expensive things burn up. even ECU


new bottom end:
crank front key good, and set to proper tongue.
crank with no fuel pump relay, to check top end oiling, if no oiling , stop and fix now, i get 55psi oil pressure just cranking , with no fuel pump relay.
cam must be timed per 8v page. http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt8v.html
then lash.
then check compression , 150 psi x4 , wide open throttle , if not above is wrong. for sure.
spark timing (time light) set to hood sticker, spec. then fine tuned after runs. (using timing freeze jumper clip)


to kill fuel pump. i pull the relay or remove left rear tail light and pull that large pink wire connector there, this kills pump ,the most easy.
the under ECU relay with green socket and pink wire is fuel pump relay.

i never run any new engine until the oil pump pressure is good, and top end oiling happens, ever.

---

the head has a 0.050" orifice that must not be blocked or head burns up, cam bearing go BOOM.
this orifice is on purpose, to save crank bearings, if head blows.

---

step 34

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html

[aarontupper]

first of all, welcome ! and will help you all I can.
what year? 89 or 95? (usa range)

spark timed right? using a timing light (light works running or not)
is the cam timed (belt) to #4 per FSM (factory service manual spec?)

is the crank cog bolt 17mm set to 94 foot/lbs, per TSB on topic? if not the key will shear.

the battery cable minus belongs on the starter mount bolt or expensive things burn up. even ECU


new bottom end:
crank front key good, and set to proper tongue.
crank with no fuel pump relay, to check top end oiling, if no oiling , stop and fix now, i get 55psi oil pressure just cranking , with no fuel pump relay.
cam must be timed per 8v page. http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt8v.html
then lash.
then check compression , 150 psi x4 , wide open throttle , if not above is wrong. for sure.
spark timing (time light) set to hood sticker, spec. then fine tuned after runs. (using timing freeze jumper clip)


to kill fuel pump. i pull the relay or remove left rear tail light and pull that large pink wire connector there, this kills pump ,the most easy.
the under ECU relay with green socket and pink wire is fuel pump relay.

i never run any new engine until the oil pump pressure is good, and top end oiling happens, ever.

---

the head has a 0.050" orifice that must not be blocked or head burns up, cam bearing go BOOM.
this orifice is on purpose, to save crank bearings, if head blows.

---

step 34

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html

Its a 93. All timing is right and the crank bolt is cranked to 94ftpounds. How do I go about checking for topend oiling? I primed the new oil pump. How do I check the oil pressure?

[fixkick]

wellm first is in my photo above., the pressure gauge screwed in to main oil gallery, the oil sender removed.
this is first. i never start a dry engine ever.
if engine is in car, and starter mounted (can do it engine on floor too , even engine on pallet)+ a battery
if it hits 50 then its ready.
next, off the valve cover, crank engine until you get top end oiling,
(the cam shaft drips in oil, if not ,the cam will seize fast, running. never guess, do these simple tests and save you new engine.

one guy used china head gasket, with no marks,
my felpo is marked UP.
if gasket is wrong, it blocks the head feed, 0.050" orifice head gallery.
doing that tests are like 5min each. no big deal.

---

step 34 and 35?

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html

[aarontupper]

wellm first is in my photo above., the pressure gauge screwed in to main oil gallery, the oil sender removed.
this is first. i never start a dry engine ever.
if engine is in car, and starter mounted (can do it engine on floor too , even engine on pallet)+ a battery
if it hits 50 then its ready.
next, off the valve cover, crank engine until you get top end oiling,
(the cam shaft drips in oil, if not ,the cam will seize fast, running. never guess, do these simple tests and save you new engine.

one guy used china head gasket, with no marks,
my felpo is marked UP.
if gasket is wrong, it blocks the head feed, 0.050" orifice head gallery.
doing that tests are like 5min each. no big deal.

---

step 34 and 35?

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html

Where can I buy one of these gauges? I'm just confused because it will not start so would that be my problem as of right now because you're saying to s check if the head gets oil because once it starts if it desent have oil it will lock up. But the problem is that it doesn't start at all. On a side note when I first turned the kay the starter ground was bad and it made a noise that got higher in pitch for like 3 seconds and that was without even trying to fully crank the key so I fixed the ground and not it cranks just won't fire. Could that noise be something being fried like the ecm or something burning up?

[fixkick]

any oil pressure gauge works
as does going to any air shop, where they sell air pressure gauges, (they are all the same , bourdon tube gauges.)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_measurement
any auto-stores.
northrern tools
harbor freight has a whole AIR wall.

Ever consider not starting as a blessing?, if you don't have top end oiling, then your no start cause, just saved the engine from destruction.!

i have no idea what noises, are.? there, nor its location,.
normal sounds sure, but ab-normal on any machine is a wake up can, it crying fix me..

it's your engine, if it has good compression, does it? it's ready to run, if top end oiling is not DEAD.
so lets pretend it does.all that,

compression over 150PSI wide open throttle. x4 ? if wrong, and read real low the cam is timed wrong, crank key stripped.? is it set to 94ft/lbs, that 17mm bolt?

we check for spark at all 4 spark plugs. not just one, all 4. (blue-white spark)
and timed to near 0 TDC or +5deg, BTDC or as hood sticker states.

next is to use test fuel, add test fuel and run it for 3seconds minimum, and SOUNDS good? (spray and crank)
is CEL lamp glowing key on?, if not, fix that first.

does CEL flash 12 key on, + jumper paper clip diagnostic mode? active? step 6?
http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html
iF if flashes 12s (all this in on my no start page) then we crank, engine, while flashing 12s, got code 41, or 42?
those codes kill spark.

in the new engine world? top end oiling is first. then cranking, then spark , then test fuel. and last fueling.

we can start it easy, but should we, only you know that now. not me. I never risk any new engine to look,.
my last one cost me $1000 to build. id never risk that cash, blind starting any engine.

1:oil pressure good, top end oils ok.
2: CEL glows key on, no ,fix that next..
3: Diagmode flashes 12, and stays 12 after 5 seconds, cranked.?
4: spark good at all 4 cylinders?
5: spark timed near 0 TDC mark, cranked. (timing light)
6: test fuel work.?

its just 6 steps. to get to test fuel. if test fuel passes, we can then work , fueling, !
7: the 8v injector can be watched injecting fuel, with naked eyes, is it? cranked? and not dribbling after the crank session?
8: is TPS TP pin at near 0v (good) or 4v or 5v? (bad) if above 4v. the TPS ground is cut. and there will never be fueling like that, cranked.

is the dash pot, on TB holding throttle open a tad, key off? the on? (this is cold start air, need to prevent flooding)
is the EGR main valve closed, and not stuck wide open?
9: is fuel pressure at 34PSI minimum key on 3 times?

just for you, a short list
there is more but depends on how far you can get. lots more.

[aarontupper]

any oil pressure gauge works
as does going to any air shop, where they sell air pressure gauges, (they are all the same , bourdon tube gauges.)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_measurement
any auto-stores.
northrern tools
harbor freight has a whole AIR wall.

Ever consider not starting as a blessing?, if you don't have top end oiling, then your no start cause, just saved the engine from destruction.!

i have no idea what noises, are.? there, nor its location,.
normal sounds sure, but ab-normal on any machine is a wake up can, it crying fix me..

it's your engine, if it has good compression, does it? it's ready to run, if top end oiling is not DEAD.
so lets pretend it does.all that,

compression over 150PSI wide open throttle. x4 ? if wrong, and read real low the cam is timed wrong, crank key stripped.? is it set to 94ft/lbs, that 17mm bolt?

we check for spark at all 4 spark plugs. not just one, all 4. (blue-white spark)
and timed to near 0 TDC or +5deg, BTDC or as hood sticker states.

next is to use test fuel, add test fuel and run it for 3seconds minimum, and SOUNDS good? (spray and crank)
is CEL lamp glowing key on?, if not, fix that first.

does CEL flash 12 key on, + jumper paper clip diagnostic mode? active? step 6?
http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html
iF if flashes 12s (all this in on my no start page) then we crank, engine, while flashing 12s, got code 41, or 42?
those codes kill spark.

in the new engine world? top end oiling is first. then cranking, then spark , then test fuel. and last fueling.

we can start it easy, but should we, only you know that now. not me. I never risk any new engine to look,.
my last one cost me $1000 to build. id never risk that cash, blind starting any engine.

1:oil pressure good, top end oils ok.
2: CEL glows key on, no ,fix that next..
3: Diagmode flashes 12, and stays 12 after 5 seconds, cranked.?
4: spark good at all 4 cylinders?
5: spark timed near 0 TDC mark, cranked. (timing light)
6: test fuel work.?

its just 6 steps. to get to test fuel. if test fuel passes, we can then work , fueling, !
7: the 8v injector can be watched injecting fuel, with naked eyes, is it? cranked? and not dribbling after the crank session?
8: is TPS TP pin at near 0v (good) or 4v or 5v? (bad) if above 4v. the TPS ground is cut. and there will never be fueling like that, cranked.

is the dash pot, on TB holding throttle open a tad, key off? the on? (this is cold start air, need to prevent flooding)
is the EGR main valve closed, and not stuck wide open?
9: is fuel pressure at 34PSI minimum key on 3 times?

just for you, a short list
there is more but depends on how far you can get. lots more.

So I just went out and bought all new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. There duralast with NGK plugs. Can you give me a pointer on the right way to put the rotor and cap on the right way? Like i hear the rotor can go on 3 different ways and only one way is right. Any help?

[fixkick]

93 8v, Tracker (virtual sig)
only trash rotors fit 3 ways,
from China.
all stock rotors, and bosch fit one way. only (and are made to Spec , of Mitsubishi data sheets, exact)
see that spring clip under rotor.? that is what works to do that, the china crap, deleted this key part, or MANGLES IT IN THE cloning BS)

NGK now that is a top brand, cant go wrong with them ever.

the top of DIzzy shaft has 3 flats, 2 short and 1 long, see that? that is Suzuki's way of getting this correct.
off my timing page
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/dizzy-end1.jpg

the stock rotor looks like this.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/rotor-bottom.jpg

BOSCH even has on their web site an advertisement that says, "our rotor actually fit right" and points to that metal clip, and amazing fact.

I hate duracrap, all of it. but its cheap, for sure.
one guy here bought new duracrap wires 2 times, and times failed.
i buy shop rags there only. burned so many times... im a carbon flake.

when i buy parts i expect OEM fit, and life, 60,000 mile or better, if you expect less, that to is your call. life is way to short for cheap parts.

---

is this correct>?
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/8v-cam-cog-close.jpg
new engine
top end oiling ok
compression at spec, 150F?
if not the cam is timed wrong if all read, like 80psi.
if that's ok, use timing light, crank see strobe fast near 0? on #1 cylinder wire?
if that's ok.
it will run on test fuel. for sure.
if not i then do the TDC check with my tool. ( that proves the 2 keys good, and the rubber bs, ring inside the damper pulley is not stripped out !.)

if paranoid (justified) i check spark on all cylinders. for landing 180 out , 1,3,4,2 on damper. (catches Duracrap rotor bs, or dizzy gears backwardS)

TDC 1 first top
TDC 3, wire fires bottom of pulley 180
TDC 4 wire fires top crank pulley again.
TDC 2 first 180 bottom of pulley, if not spark wires are swapped.

the store books get this wrong here is both engines, yours on left
red dot is Rotor pointed to #1 with engine at TDC #1 firing and all valves on #1 are loose, loose lash. if not, its firing #4.

---

is CEL glowing key on?
with the diagnostic jumper insert, does the CEL flash 12s?

if not you have trouble, all easy, but yes.