oil type and oil pump

[fixkick]

i think this spec, from ASTM began 1987, 1 year before the first Sidekick

https://www.document-center.com/standard...%20EDITION

this also begs (oil is complex no?)
how many miles can i drive, and not fail the 4683.
may be 7k? who knows?

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you drive same as my wife does, and we do same thing, low mileage drivers.

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"according to mr.Bob, flow is that matters;"
only for the cooling effect and the swirl effect (secondary this is) over having full journal pressures.
5psi will do it a idle but no 5000 rpm.
read here under clearance. short an sweet.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar797.htm

the oil pressure at the bearing, must be enough to prevent metal contact,
if say the magic swirl effect (it is real the bearings are not round. and are wide at the oil port)
if the swirl effect was so good and only flow matters, then the engine could run for 20 years, at 1psi and huge flows.
and It will not.
ask any real engine builder that,?

and he forgets, if the mains and rods cant run spec, pressure
that means that cam way way up high and beyond, that 0.050"orifice plug, is a hopeless case.
and it takes pressure to flow.
just like in electroncs, takes voltage to flow, I= E/R.
if e =0 , no flow. I.
in fact the clearance acts as a R factor resistance, so if R is too high, then I (current) flow ,drops.

what usually happens is all 8 bearing wear out. ( Some are 27 years old now.... or are just huge mileage )
and flow is extreme, and pressures dope due to the PUMP can not keep up.
the oil light comes on at 3-5psi (normal is 20 min) and the bearings hit driving 85mph, and engine blows.
at this moment best is the 4683 oil, and fresh.

now lets talk the head screw in orifice,
it's there imo , to keep the mains and rods bearings from failing, when say the cam ,bearings fail, (catastrophic fail or cam breaks in half)
saving the block.
but is a flow restricter. to the head.
if the cam is well worn, (mains in cam , at limit)
and the crank gallery pressure drops too low. the cam will starve, and seize (fail hard.

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and this video, does better
3:45 here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFe43SnBlMI

[fixkick]

King does a bang up job. (by a PHD)
http://kingbearings.com/wp-content/uploa...sional.pdf
Our G16 has hydradynamic bearing.. (not round but lemon shaped) that forms a wedge of oil. (best case)


Additionally sometimes the maximum value of minimum oil
film thickness may be reached when the values of other
hydrodynamic parameters such as oil temperature, oil leakage
flow or oil pressure distribution become unacceptable.

However, too large a flow of oil leakage may
cause a drop of oil pressure and even oil
starvation, which terminates hydrodynamic
lubrication.

Oil leakage from a bearing with excessive
clearance may be reduced by changing to a higher
viscosity oil.

[kthnos]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Longacre-Univers...tU&vxp=mtr

this one looks interesting. preset at 20psi. 1/8 bspt thread. will do or not ?

[fixkick]

its NPT thread, and not BSPT.

its usa threaded not British tread 27 TPI into 28TPI hole (tpi is threads per inch) its one pitch sizes too coarse.
if you force NPT in a PSBT hole it can strip out the block threads there and they are very very fine treads

they sell and adaptor for this.

https://fastfittings.com/search?q=28860

or only buy British sensors.. in BPST,

id hate to see you do damage, (lots of guy just force it in and can get lucky) it scares ,me after all it's the main oil gallery.

[kthnos]

yeah, i noticed that later on. had it confused with a bspt (but only 7psi) one.
why everyone sells 0.3 and 0.4 bar switches damn it?

on a side note:
http://www.bluechemgb.com/products/power...eaner.html

its not exactly an oil additive. its supposed to go in, let it idle for 10 minutes, then replace the oil and filter.
feedback? thoughts?
my engine has 200k miles on it. would this help with cleaning?

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provided that its seal-safe, that 0.50 orifice you talked about got me thinking... it should be really clog-able right?

[fixkick]

so true, its used in the hope to clean engine
but what if engine was super bad, full of sludge.
and you broke that all up.. it goes places unwanted, and clogs, up pump screen or worst the timing bearing shell oil holes.
or that 0.050" head orifice.
id just change oil more often if engine looked dirty doing say , the lash check.
if the head top is clean, then do noting, at all special.
bad
http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/wp-...sludge.jpg

good

http://d1zlh37f1ep3tj.cloudfront.net/wp/...ludge2.jpg

the latter needs nothing special at all, change oil normally

the problem with switchs is the vast numbers of thread sizes.
huge.
npt.
British pipe thread,
ISO metric no taper.
metric pipe like m10.
then pressure, ( lots and lots of permutations)

a custom gauge , some have the lamp warning as an option.
and is adjustable.
try summit racing?

http://www.summitracing.com/?gclid=COqTh...aQod8z8LXQ

[kthnos]

no no no! oh my god, that was SLUDGE in that pic!
my valve head was mostly like picture #2 (clean, clean, clean, just some varnish).
so in my case (i know you said its not 'needed at all'), it shouldn`t hurt anything right? (right??)

[fixkick]

i thought so.
i'd never put in additives or (pre cleaners ,etc, what ever they are called.) in to any oil , running in any engine,
why risk engine?> or its bearings.
when it's already clean.
the 1;20 ratio is probably safe, but why risk it.? for curing a non issue.
nobody can answer this,
diluting the engine oil has many risks,
first off , you don't know whats in the can. (if not diesel)
you don't know if oil is already too thin. (or thinned with gasoline already, oops)
you don't know if the can of magic will not react badly with this brand engine oil , its huge additive package. (due to some bad chemistry? reaction)
why not just put in fresh oil. (best is to stick with one brand )
Drive for 1000s miles look at dip stick, does it look ok ,? or does it seem to get too dirty to fast?
if yes, change it again, sooner, and see if it stabilizes.. ? (learn what you engine needs, keep in mind the dark color is the oil cleaning the engine, and hold it in suspenision) learn your engines oil consumption...
my bet is it's all ok, no need to do chem , experiments....
this is why all manufacturers void the warranty with customer added, additives.
the reason is , IT'S unpredictable the results. totally. (as are the endless snake oil cans on selves or concocted in garage)
They dont want to buy you a free engine,, on their nickle..... cant blame em....

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it's clean, why mess with clean.?
it not like cleaning the bath tub twice, no harm. it's a $3000 engine.

that varnish is no harm at all, all engines, seen on all engines.
just change the oil, like all shops do, no missing about, with TV hawked ads , cans-o-magic or net rumors on diesel magic, (IMO ) this is only my opinion.
in truth and if lucky the diesel is harmless. (just thin oil , and some have additives (some have none in summer). )
but id not want to risk anyone's engine with any form of snake oil.
Diesel can have additives added, at any point in the distribution chain. including 50% Kerosene. added in the winter.
for
"Detergents, Stabilizers, Corrosion Inhibitors, Deposit Modifiers and Lubricity Agents" and more... and by law.

how that unknown list of chem's reacts with your oil is anyone's guess.

so toss a coin, as it's smarter than me.

[kthnos]

i get your point fully.

the question is: does clean oil (even top brands) actually CLEAN those small oil passages within the engine? cause a valve cover may show something (mine is pretty clean though), but not the whole picture? its a 200k engine here. it cant be that clean inside?

and btw, its smooth but noisy. no ackward stuff, just noisy. thats pretty much a trait on all G16B engines i guess?

[fixkick]

the engine is cleaned 2 ways
at rebuild time.
and each oil /filter changes.
doing otherwise is asking for huge problems. why do that?
as they say, "be careful what you wish for, you might get it... and.....?"

why would you want to break up , that nasty gritty stuff, seen on all rebuilds, and let it loose in the engine. running.????????????????
no water cooled engine is noisy, air cool is.
there is some small valve noises.
exhaust port noise.(muted by cast iron headers)
not at all , it sounds just like all, over-head cam engines, for sure 1.6L same,
listen to other cars,with hood up. 1.6 to 2L
then go back to yours, and use a stethoscope a $5 tool an find all sources of noise there.
might be a loose bracket there, (inside noises, can be detected over outside) easy