Oil Pan

[hyrific]

I used a gasket as part of my rebuild kit and its leaking oil from the oil pan...…. Lots of little screws and a pain the @$$ to replace.  Sure was easy when the engine was out of the car.  Should have spent more time making sure I had the gasket right.  Looking for any tips to replace the gasket and what gasket I should use to make sure I don't get another leak once I get it back up.

Thanks.

[fixkick]

I used a gasket as part of my rebuild kit and its leaking oil from the oil pan...…. Lots of little screws and a pain the @$$ to replace.  Sure was easy when the engine was out of the car.  Should have spent more time making sure I had the gasket right.  Looking for any tips to replace the gasket and what gasket I should use to make sure I don't get another leak once I get it back up.

Thanks.

what car,
The g16 ships from that factory with no gasket on the pan, ever, (uses RTV only)
Suzuki sells no gasket for it , ever.
G16 1996 up if you add a gasket the CKP crank sensors is now too high and it fails.
95 and older no problem. with that there is no CKP.
is your car 4wd"
what trans is there, those side clamps to the trans can be a problem. 3sp, 4speed, 5speed?

one of our contributors offered these photos. to do that.

https://fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html

[hyrific]

I used a gasket as part of my rebuild kit and its leaking oil from the oil pan...…. Lots of little screws and a pain the @$$ to replace.  Sure was easy when the engine was out of the car.  Should have spent more time making sure I had the gasket right.  Looking for any tips to replace the gasket and what gasket I should use to make sure I don't get another leak once I get it back up.

Thanks.

what car,
The g16 ships from that factory with no gasket on the pan, ever, (uses RTV only)
Suzuki sells no gasket for it , ever.
G16 1996 up if you add a gasket the CKP crank sensors is now too high and it fails.
95 and older no problem. with that there is no CKP.
is your car 4wd"
what trans is there, those side clamps to the trans can be a problem. 3sp, 4speed, 5speed?

one of our contributors offered these photos. to do that.

https://fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html

Its a 94 8 valve tbi 3 speed.  Sounds like i should use rtv.  Can you pull the bolts slide it down enough to remove old gasket and put in rtv without pulling the frint diff?

[fixkick]

I used a gasket as part of my rebuild kit and its leaking oil from the oil pan...…. Lots of little screws and a pain the @$$ to replace.  Sure was easy when the engine was out of the car.  Should have spent more time making sure I had the gasket right.  Looking for any tips to replace the gasket and what gasket I should use to make sure I don't get another leak once I get it back up.

Thanks.

what car,
The g16 ships from that factory with no gasket on the pan, ever, (uses RTV only)
Suzuki sells no gasket for it , ever.
G16 1996 up if you add a gasket the CKP crank sensors is now too high and it fails.
95 and older no problem. with that there is no CKP.
is your car 4wd"
what trans is there, those side clamps to the trans can be a problem. 3sp, 4speed, 5speed?

one of our contributors offered these photos. to do that.

https://fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html

Its a 94 8 valve tbi 3 speed.  Sounds like i should use rtv.  Can you pull the bolts slide it down enough to remove old gasket and put in rtv without pulling the frint diff?

all 94s can use any gasket,  96 + not.
so its 4wd, I finally got you to use one hint, it is 4wd car.

ok,  what you can do is anyone's guess, small person, to large.  some can do things others dream only can.

the pan has very little room 4wd, did you look first, or just ask here first?  IDK what you've done so far.

the gasket if used, needs to have bolts torqued, to makers spec, not SUzuki but if FELPRO (not stated yet) they tell you what torque  to use, if the gasket was CORK, unstated so far
you must not use large torque, or the bolts split or deform the CORK /pan and it can split..
a pan gasket and for sure cork is the most hard thing to seal right,  you do know that fact ? thin pan + cork = pain.?
due to 2 factors and both work against each other, the CORK deforms, and the pan bends.
thin sheet metal bends, and wants to LEAK.

the pan will not come fully off, you can see the oil pump pickup is there, keeping the pan from sliding off, in 4 directions but down.
that is  problem too.
sure you can droop it some, a tad, but if the gasket is a wreck then what?  cracked,  pan is still on engine.  and what now.?  (fate wins in the end, always)
what a mech does, is this. (no knowing what the last guy did or if its all Still stock car, un molested)

takes out all those 6mm screws.
drop the pan with mallet rubber gentle taps, if factory RTV is there   this is super hard job, it don't just fall off"RTV", it must be wedged off I use plastic putty knifes and hammer the edges
if no RTV there now, It comes off easy. The FSM shows a special tool just of this nasty job, (but you dont have RTV now but to be complete here are the words)

then I try to see it, and what is there and the surfaces conditions,  super hard that, in such small space,  I see that I can't see what I need to see, not really.
if it needs more cleaning there, 2 huge surfaces pan to and block how can that be done (by mortals)?
I also cant hold the pan in my hand and use a solid metal ruler as a straight edge checking the pan upper edge for warping,  any warp is NO GOOD.
how to do all that in such a small space is hard to impossible , lord I've tried many times, and failed every time.  then had to do it the right way, per the FSM or my page above.
Ive even tried this on real jeeps, failed doing it the wrong way.

every time I try to cheat , the gods of zero mercy block me,,,,,  your luck can be better than mine sure,  and hope it is.

way2? is , remove the distrib. (TDC-0-degrees,#1 rotor firing location) and maybe  the 2 huge  RAD hoses removed, (drained sure)
and unbolt 2 engine mounts and jack up trans front to engine rises and you gain working space below the pan.   as you jack make room for things that hit.?

had 2 jeeps that hit things (brush) with no brush guard below engine, a very valuable part, on any jeep or SIDEKICK. and wrecked the pans. (I bought them like that)



that is all I know on this subject, no on the linked page on topic,  pan out.



  good luck with that pan for sure.

[fixkick]

i do love photos real ones
here is my 8v, tranny gone.
axle 4wd in place,
new distributor seals 100% doing that now, and new Clutch 100% allparts.

this is why I asked did you look first?  you can see they are sandwiched tight, here. in this photo very clear.
and the pan will NOT walk past any crank left to right.
the factor ORANGE RTV is clear to see too, still there, and on mine never leaked.w
new VITON crank rear seal just put on, 

jacking up the engine the distrib parts hit the firewall.  so that too is a limit,  4wd cars are not easy.  for sure below hit points.
see my 5speed has transmission side mount IRONS that too are in the way,  I think 4speed A/T has them too.

[fixkick]

my parts list shows no IRONs for 3sp box.
seen just below the right bell mount hole, so my guess not there and in the way.
my best guess, is
drop axle or lift engine some. front mounts removed,
the other trick , gee, is hard, remove all shifter inside car and console center,
and drop tail cross member or trans, just enough to get the front of the engine higher, but ID bet for sure the front prop shaft needs to be pulled, and box xfr case drain for sure.
or you will get a flood if it drops by self that prop shaft ,
the trick here is float the whole engine/trans/xfer case) and then while floating on jacks and wood blocks raise the front of engine to max possible and not break things.
then pan may be , pulled, but ive never tried this, but have on jeeps, and failed, (still leaked after failed)

[hyrific]

I rebuilt the motor 200 miles ago and foolishly used the cork gasket that came in the kit. Probably over tightened it. It will come off real easy. Its 4wd. I will see if i have enough room to pull cork out and put in rtv. If not its going to be a long job but worth doing to stop the leak for good.

[hyrific]

The job is done. took about 3 hours. You can indeed jack up the motor enough to pull down the pan and replace the gasket. If you were replacing a RTV gasket it would not save you any time at all as scraping the pan while under the car would take forever. Its a pain in the butt to do even without scraping the pan. Getting enough gasket on the back of the pan toward the transmission was quite a feat as was threading all the bolts under the car to put it back up. Hope it holds once the RTV cures and I have no leak.

Thanks for the tips.

[fixkick]

The job is done.  took about 3 hours.  You can indeed jack up the motor enough to pull down the pan and replace the gasket.  If you were replacing a RTV gasket it would not save you any time at all as scraping the pan while under the car would take forever.  Its a pain in the butt to do even without scraping the pan.  Getting enough gasket on the back of the pan toward the transmission was quite a feat as was threading all the bolts under the car to put it back up.  Hope it holds once the RTV cures and I have no leak.

Thanks for the tips.

thanks so much for sharing that.
we most never have to do this but is good do know
most cards the pan and block need 2hours of RTV scraping  ,  a very hard job, tedious. to get it all  off. for sure pan fully off engine.
best engine upside down for sure.
and that space behind the pan, omg,  tight with some trans. engine in car , trans connected.
but thanks for the effort,  just removing the gasket.
also the pan can be warped, very easy, over-tightening the cork gasket.   the best gasket of all BTW, is Neoprene.  (hard to find but is best) lasts forever.
thanks again for sharing!!!