No spark to coil on '93 kick surprise

[KcZuks]

So I have been without a zuki for 3 or 4 years. Sold my samurais and my wife wanted another sidekick like she had. I found one in Kansas City that was nearly rust free, barely over 120,000 miles but sat for several years and I bought it sight unseen. It was delivered and I was told that it needed a coil and that was it and I'm sure you guys can guess the rest of the story. Someone had tried to trace a short or something, maybe mouse eaten, I'm not sure. Many of the wires were all pulled out which made it easy to start searching. I'd already bought a coil, put that on, still no spark at the coil. Cranks over strong, no fuel pressure. Found a blown 15A fuse under the FI slot  under the dash fuse block, replaced it and still not sure if the fuel pump is working or not, but I still don't have spark at the coil. Anyone have a suggestion as to what I could check next? I pulled the ECU and it has been redone in 2004 with smaller capacitors the board looked fine so I put it back together and still no spark at the coil. I checked my grounds somewhat, but I found this site and thank goodness it exists. I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out. I was just hoping for some guidance on the direction to take next. I also have way too many empty connectors as far as I am concerned, but I saw that it is common to have those. but I'll include some photos of those in a different post. I'm no electrical genius by any means, but I can pretty much trace wires, which is what I'm starting to do this morning.

[fixkick]

So I have been without a zuki for 3 or 4 years. Sold my samurais and my wife wanted another sidekick like she had. I found one in Kansas City that was nearly rust free, barely over 120,000 miles but sat for several years and I bought it sight unseen. It was delivered and I was told that it needed a coil and that was it and I'm sure you guys can guess the rest of the story. Someone had tried to trace a short or something, maybe mouse eaten, I'm not sure. Many of the wires were all pulled out which made it easy to start searching. I'd already bought a coil, put that on, still no spark at the coil. Cranks over strong, no fuel pressure. Found a blown 15A fuse under the FI slot  under the dash fuse block, replaced it and still not sure if the fuel pump is working or not, but I still don't have spark at the coil. Anyone have a suggestion as to what I could check next? I pulled the ECU and it has been redone in 2004 with smaller capacitors the board looked fine so I put it back together and still no spark at the coil. I checked my grounds somewhat, but I found this site and thank goodness it exists. I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out. I was just hoping for some guidance on the direction to take next. I also have way too many empty connectors as far as I am concerned, but I saw that it is common to have those. but I'll include some photos of those in a different post. I'm no electrical genius by any means, but I can pretty much trace wires, which is what I'm starting to do this morning.

1993 sidekick real.
in the USA there are 2 engines, 8v and 16valve,  the 16valve , valve cover says 16 valves what is yours?
is this a stick shift, or 3 or 4 speed automatic.? but it cranks so I don't need this fact.

newer caps are for sure  smaller, (technology advance)
the ECU tag tells what is there,  in 2 lines,   on any dead car EFI made this is first thing to see ,  and photo and share. if 10x better responses
is car 4 wd and 2 door?
is wiring eaten up by pack rats?  photos again are the best clue.

if the ECU sees spark bad in any possible ways  it cuts fuel dead, so forget fuel. until spark works. (saves tons of guessing no?)_

all grounds on dizzy base and fire wall and to engine direct all mater of EFI fails.

all cars made (99.9%) have empty connectors, for options never opted, that saves maker from having to make 100 harnessed to stock and make. huge savings there.
the spark suppressor is first. it is thumb sized under hood and if is missing all spark ends and tachometer goes dead (RPM)
cars like this have optional cruise controls.
and AC HVAC things,  does car have HVAC AC or just 1/2 of it missing, as many are now this old,
on 4door cars huge things possible missing (options)

here is  list, of 1st checks.  (there is no CKP sensor on this engine, crank sensor NONE until 1996) if you see one its a 1996 to 98 engine. and not connected here.
1: IGN spark suppressor not missing. ( tiny)
2: all fuses not blown, or missing, for sure IGN, FUel and DOME.
3: key   on CEL glows, it must glow then go out running but will not run so just glows telling us ECU is not really dead or fuse to it not blown and lamp is not burned out.
4: spark fails at coil right ?direct to coil not out put of top of distributor  , check at the coil directly using a test spark plug and hv wire connected coil to plug directly and shell l of spark plug grounded to the engine metal.

5: cranking engine, rotor turns if not cam belt snapped and now dizzy is dead and CMP dead and all spark Dead 100%
6: cam belt can slip and ECU sees it way way off and does not creat spark via the IGNITOR.

fuel is cut the second CMP goes dead. to stop crash and burn events.

CMP is the cam sensor in base of Dizzy.
7: ground bad. to ECU or distrib or ignitor .

8; no hacked up wires to ECU or Dizzy or ignitor allowed,. eyeball them.


the 8v ignitor is right next to spark coil

the 16v it is deep in side dizzy. (most are)

hey good luck and thanks for sharing !@!@!!!!!!

The distrib (dizzy) 8v and 16v rotors do not turn the same direction ever.  16v is CCW, and 8v is CW
so PO (pre. owners) love to hook up HV wire sets backwards and spark seems to be missing and is not.
this is why spark  is checked at coil only.
then rotor seen to spin, cranked.
and spark wiring order last if wrong.  1,3,4,2 is order but the the direction is not the same on both engines.


supressor dongle?

https://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slide...sor97w.jpg

97 shows its location but is more front on 93
it must not be missing

ok sub post #1b the OBD1 test

insert the OBD1 DLC connector DIAG jumper paper clip.
key on, see CEL flash a non code 12 code. bingo.
if not a useful code.( 41/42)
crank for 10full seconds (charged battery)
release the key, do not turn off now.
see 41 or 42 flash out BINGO its telling you what fails.

I think the factory manual says 10 crank shaft spins, but we cant crank and count the pulley
so 10seconds rules. the roost here.
end post 1b additions. to testing/

[fixkick]

So I have been without a zuki for 3 or 4 years. Sold my samurais and my wife wanted another sidekick like she had. I found one in Kansas City that was nearly rust free, barely over 120,000 miles but sat for several years and I bought it sight unseen. It was delivered and I was told that it needed a coil and that was it and I'm sure you guys can guess the rest of the story. Someone had tried to trace a short or something, maybe mouse eaten, I'm not sure. Many of the wires were all pulled out which made it easy to start searching. I'd already bought a coil, put that on, still no spark at the coil. Cranks over strong, no fuel pressure. Found a blown 15A fuse under the FI slot  under the dash fuse block, replaced it and still not sure if the fuel pump is working or not, but I still don't have spark at the coil. Anyone have a suggestion as to what I could check next? I pulled the ECU and it has been redone in 2004 with smaller capacitors the board looked fine so I put it back together and still no spark at the coil. I checked my grounds somewhat, but I found this site and thank goodness it exists. I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out. I was just hoping for some guidance on the direction to take next. I also have way too many empty connectors as far as I am concerned, but I saw that it is common to have those. but I'll include some photos of those in a different post. I'm no electrical genius by any means, but I can pretty much trace wires, which is what I'm starting to do this morning.

1993 sidekick real.
in the USA there are 2 engines, 8v and 16valve,  the 16valve , valve cover says 16 valves what is yours?
is this a stick shift, or 3 or 4 speed automatic.? but it cranks so I don't need this fact.

newer caps are for sure  smaller, (technology advance)
the ECU tag tells what is there,  in 2 lines,   on any dead car EFI made this is first thing to see ,  and photo and share. if 10x better responses
is car 4 wd and 2 door?
is wiring eaten up by pack rats?  photos again are the best clue.

if the ECU sees spark bad in any possible ways  it cuts fuel dead, so forget fuel. until spark works. (saves tons of guessing no?)_

all grounds on dizzy base and fire wall and to engine direct all mater of EFI fails.

all cars made (99.9%) have empty connectors, for options never opted, that saves maker from having to make 100 harnessed to stock and make. huge savings there.
the spark suppressor is first. it is thumb sized under hood and if is missing all spark ends and tachometer goes dead (RPM)
cars like this have optional cruise controls.
and AC HVAC things,  does car have HVAC AC or just 1/2 of it missing, as many are now this old,
on 4door cars huge things possible missing (options)

here is  list, of 1st checks.  (there is no CKP sensor on this engine, crank sensor NONE until 1996) if you see one its a 1996 to 98 engine. and not connected here.
1: IGN spark suppressor not missing. ( tiny) 97view here   https://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slide...sor97w.jpg
2: all fuses not blown, or missing, for sure IGN, FUel and DOME.
3: key   on CEL glows, it must glow then go out running but will not run so just glows telling us ECU is not really dead or fuse to it not blown and lamp is not burned out.
4: spark fails at coil right ?direct to coil not out put of top of distributor  , check at the coil directly using a test spark plug and hv wire connected coil to plug directly and shell l of spark plug grounded to the engine metal.

5: cranking engine, rotor turns if not cam belt snapped and now dizzy is dead and CMP dead and all spark Dead 100%
6: cam belt can slip and ECU sees it way way off and does not creat spark via the IGNITOR.

fuel is cut the second CMP goes dead. to stop crash and burn events.

CMP is the cam sensor in base of Dizzy.
7: ground bad. to ECU or distrib or ignitor .

8; no hacked up wires to ECU or Dizzy or ignitor allowed,. eyeball them.


the 8v ignitor is right next to spark coil

the 16v it is deep in side dizzy. (most are)

hey good luck and thanks for sharing !@!@!!!!!!

[fixkick]

8v spark page lost (no-spark. html lost)
and found parts here.

https://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slide...sor97w.jpg

[fixkick]

main relay must close,then
CPU gets 12vdc power to make ECU run
the grounds good
and 5vdc pin goes to 4.75 to 5.25vdc,output to sensors for power
a1 and A13 not allowed to be dead. if either goes dead, A12 goes dead , ignitor goes off line as does all spark and fueling. dead.
as you can see the Suppressor must not be lost.
if it's a 16valve, say so and I show same drawing for 16v and we talk it. out
no spark. (at spark HV coil directly)

[KcZuks]

Thank you so much I will look over your responses when I get back tonight. I appreciate the help I will get photos and all of that detail to this form tomorrow. Thanks again

[KcZuks]

I'll try again. It thought I was spam.

[fixkick]

you are not spam. ! and are 100% welcome !!
most spam here is only porn. (or adds for panties. etc,)

the DLC DIAG jumper can in fact tell you why spark is dead
if the ignitor goes dead to the HV spark coil you get code 41 or 42.
it is really helpful if that happens, puts the diagnoses x10 more easy
good luck to you !

[fixkick]

oops I missed this.
"blown 15A fuse under the FI slot"

that blows only if the Fuel pump shorts.
and fuel pumps love to short , old.
or the wires to it are shorting out. sure.
or the last owner shorted out the FUEL PUMP relay socket (testing done wrong, call hot wiring it dead wrongly)
and one guy here did that wrong and blew up the FUEL relay transistor in the ECU. (then the relay is dead FP)
normally.
The FUEL pump relay closes for 3 seconds each key on if does ECU and relay are happy.
3seconds is the priming pulse, so rail goes to 41psi, primed , thus less cranking to get it to start. (2.0L has unique pressure, my 41 is based on older engine)

[fixkick]

1993 Side kick in the title.
so is 1.6, 8v or 16valves,  top of engine marked (aluminum valve cover embossed) as 16valves sure  is.

in 1995  USA  federal ended TBI injections, for MPI  only.
and calif did it more early, C.A.R.B laws there.
The hood of car , look up and under.
the EPA sticker is there, and if the word California is there it is a C.A.R.B regulated cars, seen any where USA this old


1992 carb calif car below.  this tag is very important to buy parts for sure EGR, manifolds etc. (EVAP system) TBI = 8v engine and 1 injector not 4.