no power uphill

[damnzuki]

it starts fine, backs up fine, just no power going up hill. when i first start it it speeds up then slows down to almost a stall then speeds back up to about 700 rpm where it sit and idles i cleaned the catalytic converter out, and the owner had a new timing belt put on. it is a 93 16vengine with efi and it has a cracked exhaust manifold and no dash lights.

[SrgBog]

damnzuki,
At your place I would start by repairing the cracked exhaust manifold with Epoxide Cement that hold up to high temperature.
And checking the cylinder pressure.

[fixkick]

the crack on #4 exh. man tube rear, cause the engine to go super rich,and spark tips go black
and epoxy dont work on 2000 degree F, manifolds, not at all. but is sold on TV but what isnt?

[fixkick]

it starts fine, backs up fine, just no power going up hill. Does it misfire?

when i first start it it speeds up (what speeds up car or RPM?) then slows down to almost a stall then speeds back up to about 700 rpm where it sit and idles.
It sits and idles, means it wont rev up not on demand?
i cleaned the catalytic converter out, and the owner had a new timing belt put on.
it is a 93 16v engine (what trans) with efi and it has a cracked exhaust manifold (WHERE EXACTLY)and no dash lights.
what transmission, 3/4 or 5 speed. stick or AUTO

no idea what no dash lights mean there are like 20 lamps in a dash. warnings, back lighting, radio lights, glove lights or even foot lamps under dash on some 4doors, it is for doors.
ive no idea what those symptoms mean, Id have to drive it.
only this , no power up hills.
1: engine compression bad. 170psi x4 , wide open throttle is good, not 100.
2: BAD SPARK TRY NEW SPARK PLUG, or a full tuneup. spark timing in spec, or set wrong during the belt failure... common error here... too common.
3: fueling issues, are spark tips black or white tipped, they talk to you if you listen to them....
here is my index for lost power, besides dragging brakes or slipping clutch in trans.

http://www.fixkick.com/power-index.html

[dazedandconfused]

i did the compression it had 120,90,100,120 wot all plugs out. and they were black. the suv is a 4 dr,1.6 liter 16 valve engine. the dash lights out are the illuminaton lights in the dash. the suv is a 5 spd manual, with a new clutch cable. it doesn't slip it just doesn't have power. i changed the filter both air and fuel. it was running good for awhile then slowly lost power so the owner stopped using it and parked it . no owners manual and haven't been able to find a good shop manual. plus no cover for the fuse box inside. it would help if everyone would let me fix it and not put there two left thumbs in it.

[fixkick]

dazedandconfused , did you highjack damnzuki post? y/n
answer, no. you lost your pass word and started a new user name, no big deal.

I see damnzuki post now, its a 1993. (2nd year, generation 1, 16v,) so now I know year.... took some work for me to figure all that out.

Compression facts missing:
done wide open throttle or near. (stated yes)
done hot or cold engine.?
done wet or dry (with added oil or no added oil?) dry is always first test.
done at what altitude? ??????
fails 2 ways. so far....
cylinder to cylinder variance 30psi (25%) is excessive...
and total pressure , too low. at sealevel (where are you, sealevel or in Denver Co.? 5000ft altitude.?)
all mine did, this,
My 97' pulls 185 PSI min. dead cold. (a new head) later and hot it does 195 PSI. (all 16v do this, its a bench mark, at sealevel)
looks like your cam belt slipped to me but id need full answer above asked.

one more question , did you let the needle peak out, watching it (2 man way) or just count seconds.(wrong) the web if full of bad advice here,


needle needs to peak and throttle 1/2 to full , full is better so less strain on battery, all spark out.. it must be allowed to peak or the bench mark is useless.
the throttle open , allows and engine to breath, the only natural path of air when cranking is the ISC, that can stuck so WOT cranking is for sure needed.

if done correctly only attitude changes the expectations , and is shown on my compression page.
(the engines compression ratio , is what makes the numbers, once altitude is known , pure physics here)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html#altitude

i did the compression it had 120,90,100,120 wot all plugs out. and they were black. the suv is a 4 dr,1.6 liter 16 valve engine.
the dash lights out are the illumination lights in the dash. ( which lamps, warnings or gauge back lights the latter is on a dimmer turn the dimmer knob up)
the suv is a 5 spd manual, with a new clutch cable.
it doesn't slip it just doesn't have power. (engine or EFI is sick)

i changed the filter both air and fuel. it was running good for awhile then slowly lost power so the owner stopped using it and parked it .
no owners manual and haven't been able to find a good shop manual. (we have both, the welcome post , first only you see on the forum shows the free books)

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/s...php?tid=14

pm me, for oper guide. click my Icon link and pm me, your email i will send op guide.

plus no cover for the fuse box inside. (that cover is in my fuse page, go to fixkick.com
see 7 fuse boxes here
http://www.fixkick.com/Elect-fail-index.html#Fuses

it would help if everyone would let me fix it and not put there two left thumbs in it. (sure but first things first , no?)

what car do you have.? suzuki or geo, 4wd , 4doors G16b 16valves, 5speed. 1993.

your attack strategy is perfect. first make sure engine is good, 1990s cars that is very very wise.
the top failure on these cars is ignoring the cam belt for 10 years, classic failure.
the belt slips (cogs) and compression drops, as much as 50% 200 now is 100.
like yours.

this suzuki engine can run with a slipped cam ,say one cog but will run like crap

lets pretend the compression (The 16v is 195 PSI. Seen in FSM chapter 6-6 (not 6A1) Facts., factory book spec, and I know for a fact its right)
your engine is way less than the old 89 ,8v, 155 spec.

engine good,
key on the CEL lamp must blow does it?
then running not, if it can made to run.
all fuses good. the pre 96 box looks like
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/fusep...knee1w.jpg

insert the diagnostic jumper.
into the DLC onnector. (paper clip unbend , magic tool)must be metal not plastic clip nor painted clips.
key on and count flashes, of THE CEL, 12 is good.
your DLC can be 4 pin or 6, but is just in front of the battery with rubber cap, as seen on my DLC page (data link connector)
here are all DLCs .
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html

write down all codes. they came out , serially 1 by 1.
and repeats forever.
this is always first, after the compression test on all old cars.


conclusion, if done right the compression is horrible.
so engine is dead, bad, or as it seems all are, like this, the timing belt slipped.
if yes, see this.
the easy way to check timing of the cam.

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html

[fixkick]

lots of words, but cars are complex. (all EFI are)
my new car has 8000 pages, yes complex.
on this car it no different that the 40million corolla made say 4AFE engines 7AFE , same deal, and same belt that goes bad a 60k miles.
if you have a spark timing light
i connect to #1
i then point it the belt cover scale and if the mark is far far to the right of 0deg. (can be super far) that means in 5min work, the belt slipped.
unless the PO, prev. owner saw that and the moved the distributor to hide the KEY FACT. from you.

[fixkick]

ok i see its the same person with 2 logins,
and 2 very close IP addresses.
and now know your altitude is 3000 ft based on IP lookup's, in your town.
so your compression would be.
195 x .915 = 178 psi
so you are 88 lbs low, warm. (178-90)
not good, at all.
and your email i now have.
ill send the 1994 operators guide to that email.
next.

[fixkick]

bad belt.
end story.