No crank click sound problem then starts fine

[fixkick]

try this page
learn how to find voltage drops.
they are all caused, by bad connections ,more basic name is Resistance.
if the battery voltage drops too low, that too, is resistance of the cell, which is caused by 2 things, it's bad, or is not charged.
i have a no crank page

see the yellow scope screen, this is what scope shows, cranking, you can see NORMAL voltage drops here.
notices the voltage staying over 10v? there? that is very normal. can be tad less in Siberia.
http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html

check out the tricks sections.

same deal on all cars, and 10x worse on diesels.

[zukitrek]

Ok. I will read and test. Thanks so much

J

[fixkick]

you welcome
i keep and open mind to failures, they are mostly random.
but batteries fail first.
then starters.
and then every connection, next with corroded cables , or bad cables. end to end,.
and PRNDL.
but....
in truth, it's all random , only fate wins.! Mr. Murphy wins every time.
and statistics only works for the other guys cars.

[zukitrek]

Hello Kick. The neutral wiggle thing did not work. How does the shifter lets you crank in neutral?

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Wife could start the car. Again. What she did, and also last time (and maybe you can get an idea of what is going on) she disconnected both battery terminals, reconnected them and voila, started again. Does this give you any clue? Thanks

[fixkick]

the ignition key has a wire called the starter wire, or key line
when you turn the key the this wire goes from 0v to 12vdc.
then this wire goes to the PRNDL switch.
if this switch is in park or neutral, 12vdc goes to the solenoid. and this solenoid engages the pinion and energizes the starter motor. all at once.
if it cranks in neutral or park wiggled, the switch is bad.
if the 12vdc does not reach the solenoid , it has no hope of cranking over
if wiggling the cables up top. cause it to crank then the cables are bad or not tight. on all 4 ends.
the only way to prove and intermittent is with a voltmeter, or parts swaps, and pray.

[zukitrek]

You mention that top starter bolt, and I'm beginning to think that I should check that as when I worked on the starter I might not have tighten it to specs. The negative wire on the other hand has not been changed at all only the positive, including new brass terminal. I'll have a look at both and let you know my results.

J

[zukitrek]

Hello sir.
Well the latest developments in this issue are that some smoke came from the combo switch and somehow this affected the shift lever lock mechanism. I disassembled the whole combo switch and nothing looked burnt or melted. This is in addition to the no crank issues which have been on and off and it has been my bad for not checking the wires at the battery (at least the negative, cause positive along with terminal had been replace well before this). I ended up removing the turn signals fuse and removing completely the shift lock solenoid (is this bad?). My question is where would that black wire from the combo end near the fuse box. I know this from a old post I saw (I think it was you) which they tell the person to look for this when turn signals are acting up.

Thanks for your help.

J

[fixkick]

smoke and no fuse blows? got wrong sized fuseS?

the shift lock is just for , drivers that never leaned to drive.
imo
drivers ed, 1964, step one, hand brake and foot brake, set hard, start engine in , park or neutral. (nobody in front of car)
do you have control of engine?
yes, then drive.
iT WAS THE Audi 5000 lady that drove over her kids, my guess, drunk..... you'd start a car with a kid in front car???? so in 1989 new federal laws, for this solenoid.
it not bad, as long as you drive it, but others will freak. not me,,, all my classics have non of this. nor my motor cycle.

my schematic page has all that. I think.
for sure can russle it up.

the park lock out is here ,
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/shiftlock/...fails.html
as you can see brakes ligh and p/n switch both make the solenoid die.
it forms relay AND logic, if? the Brakes true (glowing) AND parked is true (PRNDL), the relay energizes and the solenoid energizes. very simple.

the others are here.

black wire, HL use a black wire for ground in the combo, as does all other grounds. if a black wire burns? that means the object to it is shorted to power.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/Head-...nDRL1w.jpg


my guess for combo smoke?
head light park lamp feed shorting to ground. but the fuse blows. the park feed IS HUGE< vast number of wires that can and will short.
blinkers same deal. or hazard tuned on.

the rest are here.
black is ground
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20...mps95b.pdf


all were list ed on this page
http://www.fixkick.com/schematics-run.html
the park lock out has a bypass lever on the console, no need to be stuck.

[zukitrek]

Good day sir. There were some electrical events regarding the turn signal a long time ago that "self-healed" over time until the smoke event. THe Kick had a bad rear turn signal light and I replaced it. But soon after replacing it it would not flash again light and cluster). Then only during night you could see the turn signal light on the dash coming faintly on as you pressed the brake. After a while this went away and turn signal started working again, until days before the smoke when it would click in an odd pattern but no light on the cluster. Could all these be related even to the no start event? Now kick is starting very good, but signals are not working even with a good fuse on.

Thanks for your time.

J

[fixkick]

we.come!
wow, left and right or just one side or both??????????????
and do emerg. flashers fail too? we need these hard facts. to answer correctly, so i will answer in generic form.


first rule of all blinkers 1 to 4 rules, (and smoke means what?, it means excessive current, SO is the fuse size right, what color fuse there. ????
1: wrong fuse. 15amps is correct, nothing ELSE. the color iS BLUE !
2: all metal brass cup base lamps , LOVE to short that is there EVIL thing working against us , so why not replace all 4. and end this, event. 5 buicks and 15min.

3: all cars that had a trailer or just not now, had the trailer lights, feeds hacked, nobody it seems knows how to do quality work here. so remove the left rear tail light. see that factory trailer connector nobody can uses (but me) that will be HACKED, or it's wires there?. in plain view there or under bumper. see hacking there, it be so, fix it.

4: collision damage of any kind on all 4 corners. and more hack jobs. clear as day , if true. just a glance and oh my gosh, who did that mess.?

the blinker acting odd, is overload. so we now have 3 hints for overload.the dash not blinking is a clue too of overload. odd blink, and dim bulbs.

the full schematic is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20...mps95b.pdf

if no 5 bucks. test blinkes will all bulbs out, then put all back at one location, 1 at at time do all work in 1 spot , all 3 others removed? is the base loose on lamp bingo its NO GOOD.