New Owner

[fixkick]

set TV gap to .2"  , not to bore but my silly crude reference drawings they are for seeing things work standing back  just looking.
so turn the bleed screw, top of TB 16v top rear, under rubber cap, CCW counter clock wise until 800 is hit the ISC wakes up.

then turn 1/2 turn more.? (very crude duty cycle iSC setting above, just to get it going and woke up.
ah here, the 0.2 is just a gander moment,  if way off seen clear as day it is , the bore to TV is .001 or .0005" gap.
or so water pour inside, can not go past the TV cables all 3 lose. to TV.
or closed 99.9% so closed but never 100% as that makes it jam and wears out the bore, there is no spec at suzuki, I guess its on flow bench at Mukuni.
 


when done, hot air comes from BLEED and ISC and not the  TV ever. hot idle. IAC is closed hot. so can no leak air.
seems other messed the never touch screw but is so easy to fix.

[Nonmilagno]

Idle now goes to 1500 rpm at cold start-up (about 75 degrees Fahrenheit ambient temperature in my garage) then in about 2 minutes slowly starts to drop and ends up at about 700 rpm when engine is fully warm.
Engaging A/C raises idle to 1000 rpm.

It seems to idle pretty smoothly at 700 so I wonder if it’s worth chasing 800 rpm?

[Nonmilagno]

Engine running really well (opened bleed-screw just a bit).

Now I’m chasing an oil leak I can’t resolve. It’s leaking at the distributor case (where it bolts onto the back of the cylinder head). I installed a new Suzuki O-ring and used some RTV as suggested in the FSM, no luck. Took the case back off and tried some three-bond which definitely slowed the leak down but it’s still there. The surface of the dizzy case and the surface of the cylinder head look perfect. No gouges or warping.
I’m wondering if someone may have installed the wrong distributor case sometime in the past?

[fixkick]

Engine  16valve running really well (opened bleed-screw just a bit).

Now I’m chasing an oil leak I can’t resolve. It’s leaking at the distributor case (where it bolts onto the back of the cylinder head). I installed a new Suzuki O-ring and used some RTV as suggested in the FSM, no luck. Took the case back off and tried some three-bond which definitely slowed the leak down but it’s still there. The surface of the dizzy case and the surface of the cylinder head look perfect. No gouges or warping.
I’m wondering if someone may have installed the wrong distributor case sometime in the past?

i dont think wrong dizzy base cases can be mixed up.
see photo here see pencil pointing to sealant , needed here point.
https://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-dizzy-base1w.JPG

there are 2 more leaks there,
1:VC leak rear,  valve cover gasket bad. or set too tight and warped.
2: this monster, done wrong. rear cam cap must have sealant. or leaks. oil to rear.

[Nonmilagno]

I installed a new FelPro valve cover gasket (no sealant on gasket) and torqued with torque wrench. I feel pretty confidant that the leak is not there but I’ll check it just to make sure.

I’ll remove the rear cam cap and use some RTV on it and re-torque per FSM.

The rocker shaft o-ring at rear of cylinder head is probably the original. Do you see any harm in applying RTV to cover the rocker shaft end? I don’t see how RTV could make its way inside engine.

Is it possible for PCV valve to malfunction letting too much pressure build up and force oil past seals in the dizzy case area?

[fixkick]

I installed a new FelPro valve cover gasket (no sealant on gasket) and torqued with torque wrench. I feel pretty confidant that the leak is not there but I’ll check it just to make sure.

I’ll remove the rear cam cap and use some RTV on it and re-torque per FSM.

The rocker shaft o-ring at rear of cylinder head is probably the original. Do you see any harm in applying RTV to cover the rocker shaft end? I don’t see how RTV could make its way inside engine.

Is it possible for PCV valve to malfunction letting too much pressure build up and force oil past seals in the dizzy case area?

sure RTV that sure.
you think just like, me, sure PCV stuck closed, all things are any thing leaks oil even good things.
sure.
make sure all PCV pathes at goth ends not clogged, suck side, and in the VC, there is filter up top that might clog.  or baffle there to stop oil mist sucking, to intake.
just use lips to blow both ways see if either side is clogged and PVC disk not stuck or clogged, keep open mind, here,  there are 2 PCV paths too,  the other is to intake filter pipe.  fresh air  input but if this clogged, Crank case goes to vacuum and never leaks that failure.
your doing good in this old rig, nice work !!!!!

[Nonmilagno]

Okay, valve cover is off and I see no evidence of sealant having been used on rear-most cam cap (no squeeze-out at all). Looking at the FSM it says to loosen cam caps in sequence and retighten in sequence. Since I’m just removing rearmost cap and not all caps and cam should I be concerned about re-adjusting valve lash? Anything else?

Once again, thanks for all the help. I couldn’t have made it this far without it! There are just so many idiosyncrasies in this vehicle that only first-hand experience can know.

[fixkick]

Okay, valve cover is off and I see no evidence of sealant having been used on rear-most cam cap (no squeeze-out at all). Looking at the FSM it says to loosen cam caps in sequence and retighten in sequence. Since I’m just removing rearmost cap and not all caps and cam should I be concerned about re-adjusting valve lash? Anything else?

Once again, thanks for all the help. I couldn’t have made it this far without it! There are just so many idiosyncrasies in this vehicle that only first-hand experience can know.

those cam cap clearances are very close " .002"
and caps fit tight , super  tight at cap bosses. no play there.
the problem with cam/caps, is the valve spring bias. pushing cam/caps up, and taking off 1 cap is a tad risky.
lash will not change.
you are correct the caps are torque staged,
how to correct this IDK. and inspections here caps not off is super hard. (you looked for rtv witness, marks there,beads left over in  gap)
idiosyncratic is it on this read cap ,, pure G16B technology.

hard to call this,  how much work to stop a leak.
finding leaks is not easy, even using  IR light and dye check.

good luck to you on this problem...

[Nonmilagno]

Okay, thanks.

[Nonmilagno]

I’m ready to declare victory over the distributor leak! I elected not to remove the rear cam cap. Instead, I added some 3-bond to each side of the cap where it meets the cylinder head surface. I used black RTV (high-temp, oil resistant) to seal the end of the rocker shaft and the dizzy case (and new o-rings of course). Also, PCV valve was cleaned, seems to be working well.

That was several days and a couple of hours of driving ago and no more oil leaks at the dizzy area. It had apparently leaked for quite a while and there is a lot of residual oil below the dizzy. Still cleaning that, it may take a while.

So, progress has been made.