New Maf

[gorkyb]

That's crazy, how would someone know if a part is defective unless the customer can try it? I'd fight it with whoever sold it to you if I were you. Good luck with that. Hwy83 Suzuki and NUDI Salvage are two online junkyards I've used a few times, they're pretty good but take sometime for them to get back to you.

[TRACKERHACKER]

Gorky, you make a very good point there , You have to install it to find out. The junkyards you've mentioned, I may need them. Thank You. I hope this is a rare defect and they make good on it.

[fixkick]

hello tracker hacker and welcome.
there are 2 easy readings.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html

keyon volts, 1.0

[TRACKERHACKER]

Hello Fixkick, Thank You. Well this trackers running not very well. The idle is actually low. When I started it cold this morning and then warm, idle was too low and stalled a couple of times. Erratic. Like the ecm is confused - like me. I'm going to try it again in the morning when It's totally cooled down . It's a 95. - 16 valve ,1.6 mpfi, 4wd,auto 3 speed, 2 door made in Canada. Emissions are california.

[fixkick]

. It's a 95. - 16 valve ,1.6 mpfi, 4wd,auto 3 speed, 2 door made in Canada. Emissions are california.

Hello Fixkick, Thank You. Well this trackers running not very well. The idle is actually low. When I started it cold this morning and then warm, idle was too low and stalled a couple of times. Erratic.
Like the ecm is confused - like me.
I'm going to try it again in the morning when It's totally cooled down

G16B issues: (stalling can be caused by non EFI issues, sure can, no ECU, non sensors.)
what are the driving symptoms hot and cold engine block?.
does the coolant reach and keep 180F or more?
low idle:? (hot ? only, stalls only hot?)
basics:
if motor is good, (timing belt not slipped, compression over 170psi (wot)?
spark good, timed correctly? tuned up.?

then its fueling issues. or? (first fueling test is always fuel pressure, at about 30 psi running and steady at idle)
just idle air issues. ?
low idle is usually just a stuck open EGR main valve. (the classic failures, is stalls , just before coming to a stop, hot engine)
or even stuck closed, ISC (idle control valve)
leaking injectors, clogged injectors.

consider the , scan tool for under $50 .?

if not sure about the EGR, you can defeat it closed and then do all other testing to find some other problem.

cheers, and good luck.

[TRACKERHACKER]

Good Morning, Thank you for posting back. I've been down a few days ,so I havn't got to mess around with Tracker. I have this little bit of info right now. (1)Whenever I cold start it with the new MAF sensor installed, it idles way too low through the warm up than starts missfiring and stalls. The voltage output of new Maf sensor is 2.28 volt at 550-600 rpm, (both volt and rpm fluctuate a little). Plugs get very carboned up and it smells horribly rich. (2) I clean off plugs and put the old MAF sensor ( the oem that failed) back on Tracker and though it goes into one of those modes, limphome or failsafe, backup or the possible mystery mode--It runs ok. I mean it runs like a car in one of those modes, which is so much better - (at least it will stay running with no missfire) - the plugs even clean up more than I could clean them by hand, brush, carb cleaner and compressed air. The electric idle contol valve seems too be functioning OK . Also, It takes a while idling but it does reach operating temp. I've got the right stat and gasket thanks to your other site. Thank You

[fixkick]

hello;; 95 Tracker, 4WD, auto, vin 6, 1.6 ,16 valve, made in Canada and Cal emissions. no scan tool. (ouch)
sorry for you ordeal: it can be perplexing, but with a volt meter, we can find it. got one?

how do you know the old maf was bad?
You car has CEL lamp and a diagnostic jumper. when jumped does the CEL flash 33 or 34, bad maf? if not, then the ecu is not in MAF induced Failsafe.
and what is the voltage on the old ( all 3, keyon, idle and 3000 rpm) ? only that matters. (focused on MAF only)


its running very rich, that Maf you bought is a clone, and i have one here, its its stuck at 2.50 forever (running), until I corrected the wiring blunders inside.
it's form China ,see the china hanzi script on top.? and no 58B00 Suzuki marks on the side, like all real MAF have.
Sure no return, after all , 1/2 are no good out of the box...?
what is maf output at 3000 rpm , this clone was 2.5v , again, a dead maf. what are the 3 outputs. , keyon, idle , and 3000.

that is correct ,unplugging the maf , instantly drops the ECU to failsafe, with CEL flashing, 34s for ever.
in some cases it might run better. that dont mean anything, after all that is what failsafe is; a way to drive to the repair shop , with limited power.

have you discovered the paper clip.?
you can drive it with that in in place to see of other DTCs pop up.. 12s are normal. A great ploy to find intermittent failures (hard)
see jumper rules on this page.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html


[quote]off my maf testing page, out of FSM
Backprobe one of the DVM leads to ECM terminal B8 , and the other DVM lead to a good chassis

ground. Turn the ignition switch ON and read the voltage of terminal B8. The voltage observed should be 1.0

[TRACKERHACKER]

I had code 34. I used one of those 1 cent scanners. I just went and rechecked the original maf volt output. Both Key on and engine running I got .405 volt. I reved up motor and it rose to somewhere around .409 or .410 volts. Thank You

[fixkick]

that old maf is toast, 34s nail that.
the new one ,we need a 3 point reading, keyon/idle./3000 rpm volts on maf output.

maybe yours is wired wrong just like mine( gorkys.)
and if so. can be fixed easy. i can show you.
or you can have mine (gorkys with his blessings)

the china maf does have potential. but i dont have a car to test it on.
the maf must be accurate to get AFR near 12.5:1 at WOT. not 16. or 8;1. (lean burns valve, 8 wastes fuel and heats up cat)
at cruise the ECU can tune out over 30% error, but not with foot down. (right foot , fast or deep)
on pre 96 cars the mafs are harder to diagnose. (no scan data and no P0172 like warnings).

the maf rules the roost at WOT. so must be right first.

btw , the "gorky"bad maf, showed too much air flowing at idle, (not really it was nuts) but it caused excessive fueling at ilde. real bad.
then at higher rpm it just died flat. under-reported true air flow../
it must have a linear output, 1 for 1 with throttle just like my flancy excel plot shows. above.

btw the gorky maf, out of his box, the HOT WIRE was dead, (not hot, no current.) so that is why the output was bogus. and put me on the trail to fix. it.

---

btw, we can make it run right. just a few tests.. no large bucket of money. ask for help buying used parts, many venders list 8v part for 16v, and rev.

[TRACKERHACKER]

I saw your detective work on Gorkys bad maf. WOW. Both times I installed new maf it barely ran. Idle was unbelievably low. Within a minute or so plugs carbon up so bad it starts misfiring horriibly, then stalls. The last time I tried the new maf , Key on 1.517 volt . It idled around 550-600 rpm and read 2.28 volts with minute fluctuations. Very quickly rpms dropped lower and stalled out. I dont think I was even able to get it up to 3000 rpms with new maf.