How To Align Camshaft To The Crankshaft

[bowerl]

How to align camshaft to the crankshaft after moving them both independently on a 1995 Suzuki sidekick 2WD 1.6L 8V TBI SOHC 4cyl?

[fixkick]

redux, 1.
you lied to me it is not a 8v.
it has in fact 16valves not 8.
so deleted my matching wrong answer

[bowerl]

How to align camshaft to the crankshaft after moving them both independently on a 1995 Suzuki sidekick 2WD 1.6L 8V TBI SOHC 4cyl?

What I mean is, how do you align the crankshaft marks (dimple and arrow on crankshaft at 12 o'clock and the camshaft mark (E straight up 12 o'clock) So that with the valve cover off, you can observe that the exhaust valve lifters on #4 cylinder are loose (valves closed) and exhaust valve lifters on #1 are tight (valves open)?

[bowerl]

some how engine grew 8 extra valves.
1995 Suzuki Sidekick 2WD 1.6L 16V MFI SOHC 4cyl (stock 2WD 1.6L 16V MFI SOHC 4cyl)

I changed the water pump and though I should change the timing belt while I had easy access. Put every thing back together. ( I did not touch distributor or wires)

No start! I admit that I rotated the camshaft and crankshaft independently in the process...dumb me! As a result, I want to re-align the crankshaft to the camshaft. I understand that the crankshaft and camshaft are align 12 o'clock but, by rotating them independently I completely screwed up the timing. I need to know that they are aligned properly.

Right now crankshaft and camshaft are at 12 o'clock and #1 valves are loose (closed) and #4 valves are tight. (open) The distributor point to cylinder #4. Is that the way it should be for a stock engine? No start!

What steps should I take to straighten everything out so that I can fire her up?

[fixkick]

ok first post shows, 8v, so I got all confused.
each engine suzuki makes is very different. 8v, 16v, 1.8L 2.0, 2.5L

my 16v page covers all that, above I posted 8v to your 8v 1st post.
here is 16v, tbelt change, as before, (and more easy on 16v) the spokes do have false markes and is E marked in 2 places, "I"marks are wrong.

once timed the cam correctly , step 2 is compression test, 180Psi (throttle must be open some 1/2 way or more) if at 80PSI the cam is timed wrong. (x4, 80psi)
we always validate compression, why, because if wrong , its pain to do the job again from full assembled. it takes all of 15minuts. even doing #1 compression spark plugs out is easy.
type compression in my search box, fixkick.com


16v tbelt

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html



compression. ( 5min work spark out, saves 2 hours of labor)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html

if compression is ok then check spark
cant burn fuel lacking spark. and timed right.
now lets to prime rose path to hell
say last guy let the cam slip 1 cog.
then found spark timing off (oh it will be) so set spark to match the cam error, ouch.
then you come along, and fix the bad cam timinng (bravo)
and now the spark timing is off,
prime rose path to hell. 101.
that is why we check it all, to avoid all that pain,
compression guage.
and a timing light and the freeze jumper inserted.


this is WRONG. #4 valves are loose not 1. (lash loose means both valves are closed, and #4 firing.)

Right now crankshaft and camshaft are at 12 o'clock and #1 valves are loose (closed) and #4 valves are tight. (open) The distributor point to cylinder #4. Is that the way it should be for a stock engine? No start!

\\ sure.


the CAM cog wheel can be installed 2 ways wrong.
using I marks or I key , or both ways wrong, horror everytime,
that cam cog like the 8v fits 2 engines (dohc and sohc)
yours cog only uses "E" marks and the "E" key.

the real photos on my 16v tbelt pages show this clear as day and in many redundant ways. see photo 3 and 4,

[fixkick]

so the real questions was
how to install a new 16v cam belt, (gates is best and comes with instructions in the box)
but the words (use only "E" marks (marks and the key ) may be missing on many instruction sheets, for sure C4 belts, "china communist cloned crap" coined by a fun guy here, love that name C4. junk belts and no sheet or wrong.

[bowerl]

ok first post shows, 8v, so I got all confused.
each engine suzuki makes is very different. 8v, 16v, 1.8L 2.0, 2.5L

my 16v page covers all that, above I posted 8v to your 8v 1st post.
here is 16v, tbelt change, as before, (and more easy on 16v) the spokes do have false markes and is E marked in 2 places, "I"marks are wrong.

once timed the cam correctly , step 2 is compression test, 180Psi (throttle must be open some 1/2 way or more) if at 80PSI the cam is timed wrong. (x4, 80psi)
we always validate compression, why, because if wrong , its pain to do the job again from full assembled. it takes all of 15minuts. even doing #1 compression spark plugs out is easy.
type compression in my search box, fixkick.com


16v tbelt

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html



compression. ( 5min work spark out, saves 2 hours of labor)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html

if compression is ok then check spark
cant burn fuel lacking spark. and timed right.
now lets to prime rose path to hell
say last guy let the cam slip 1 cog.
then found spark timing off (oh it will be) so set spark to match the cam error, ouch.
then you come along, and fix the bad cam timinng (bravo)
and now the spark timing is off,
prime rose path to hell. 101.
that is why we check it all, to avoid all that pain,
compression guage.
and a timing light and the freeze jumper inserted.


this is WRONG. #4 valves are loose not 1. (lash loose means both valves are closed, and #4 firing.)

Right now crankshaft and camshaft are at 12 o'clock and #1 valves are loose (closed) and #4 valves are tight. (open) The distributor point to cylinder #4. Is that the way it should be for a stock engine? No start!

\\ sure.


the CAM cog wheel can be installed 2 ways wrong.
using I marks or I key , or both ways wrong, horror everytime,
that cam cog like the 8v fits 2 engines (dohc and sohc)
yours cog only uses "E" marks and the "E" key.

the real photos on my 16v tbelt pages show this clear as day and in many redundant ways. see photo 3 and 4,

I screwed up as a result of rotating crankshaft and camshaft independently.

Right now I am sure crankshaft and camshaft are at 12 o'clock and #1 valves are loose (closed) and #4 valves are tight. (open). How do you align crankshaft and camshaft so that # 4 valves are loose?

[bowerl]

ok first post shows, 8v, so I got all confused.
each engine suzuki makes is very different. 8v, 16v, 1.8L 2.0, 2.5L

my 16v page covers all that, above I posted 8v to your 8v 1st post.
here is 16v, tbelt change, as before, (and more easy on 16v) the spokes do have false markes and is E marked in 2 places, "I"marks are wrong.

once timed the cam correctly , step 2 is compression test, 180Psi (throttle must be open some 1/2 way or more) if at 80PSI the cam is timed wrong. (x4, 80psi)
we always validate compression, why, because if wrong , its pain to do the job again from full assembled. it takes all of 15minuts. even doing #1 compression spark plugs out is easy.
type compression in my search box, fixkick.com


16v tbelt

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html



compression. ( 5min work spark out, saves 2 hours of labor)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html

if compression is ok then check spark
cant burn fuel lacking spark. and timed right.
now lets to prime rose path to hell
say last guy let the cam slip 1 cog.
then found spark timing off (oh it will be) so set spark to match the cam error, ouch.
then you come along, and fix the bad cam timinng (bravo)
and now the spark timing is off,
prime rose path to hell. 101.
that is why we check it all, to avoid all that pain,
compression guage.
and a timing light and the freeze jumper inserted.


this is WRONG. #4 valves are loose not 1. (lash loose means both valves are closed, and #4 firing.)

Right now crankshaft and camshaft are at 12 o'clock and #1 valves are loose (closed) and #4 valves are tight. (open) The distributor point to cylinder #4. Is that the way it should be for a stock engine? No start!

\\ sure.


the CAM cog wheel can be installed 2 ways wrong.
using I marks or I key , or both ways wrong, horror everytime,
that cam cog like the 8v fits 2 engines (dohc and sohc)
yours cog only uses "E" marks and the "E" key.

the real photos on my 16v tbelt pages show this clear as day and in many redundant ways. see photo 3 and 4,

I screwed up as a result of rotating crankshaft and camshaft independently.

Right now I am sure crankshaft and camshaft are at 12 o'clock and #1 valves are loose (closed) and #4 valves are tight. (open). How do you align crankshaft and camshaft so that # 4 valves are loose?

I screwed up as a result of rotating crankshaft and camshaft independently.

Right now I am sure crankshaft and camshaft are at 12 o'clock and #1 valves are loose (closed) and #4 valves are tight. (open). How do you align crankshaft and camshaft so that # 4 valves are loose?

[fixkick]

you did not screw up.
the belt must be tension'ed per the document. (mine, suzuki or Gm GEO, all are the same)
you can turn the crank to 12 pm, at any time, just turn it CW (belt must be off)
crank cog 12pm to 12pm pump mark is crank TDC #1 and #4 timing mark,,
as seen on my page linked above. last post, did you miss my page.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16V/mine/crank-cog1.jpg
then with that set, turn the cam cog (I will assume the cam cog wheel key is in the "E" slot.

turn the cam clockways, always, same with crank or the bolt can come loose , and bad bad that is.
turn the cam cog so the E spoke, 12pm mark lands on the 12pm top back pan mark.

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16V/mine/cam-cog1w.jpg
see the no there for key in "I" slot, only E keyed.
see the see that outer top "E: mark , only that mark can be used, on SOHC engine.
if not done right engine can not run, and compression will be horrid low.

not jump to Phase 2, step 10. and proceed to step 19, at least.

my page has lots of steps , only because lots of things gone wrong, missing parts, wrong parts, and crank bolt loose, horrors.


with all 4 marks aligned.
if you look the #4 valves all 4 are loose, and must be.. if not the cam key is WRONG.
now put the belt on,
and do the tension steps on my page.

the step,17 locks the tension for 60k more miles.
this car does not have dynamic tension of any kind, its set once and you drive.