Greetings..and..Transmission

[fixkick]

is the tail shaft lowered letting the whole transmission, tilt the engine back?
if yes, 18" extensions reach it all? i have 2 of them and Ujoints that let me reach any thing.

remove the EVAP canister, then tilt the alternator back, full access is not to starter. from front and bolt.
http://www.fixkick.com/belts.html#starter
there is an intake brace there too, that can be tilted back for folks with bigger arms....

[GeoHacker]

Tomorrow is finally Drop Day I think. (have had some health issues in between).

Didn't have enough extensions to go from below, but I got the bad-time bolt loose using one of my best buys ever, a long handled breaker ratchet with a pivoting head from Autozone (sale, $15). I was able to reach it from the engine compartment because it can go past 90 degrees, into reverse angled. One good shove, popped loose, and it came right out using finger pressure alone. The passenger side main bold nut was a pain, had to remove the clutch cable mount.Because I had the main bolts removed, in trying to get the clutch lever off, I thought I was compressing the clutch, but actually backed off the transmission a 1/4" so it's ready to go tomorrow. Just hope it slides on back easy enough, drops in line, and life is good.

I don't have any scrap metal so no welded cradle, have to use a wood one like in your pictures.

A surplus of joy, has been this operation (not)

[fixkick]

may rental stores, like the kind that rent tools, tractors. tillers, chain sways and the like? rent transmission jacks.(not sure Uhaul)

the vent slot , my photo, above, is where the Distributor 0-rings leak , and oil goes there, making all owners of this car think the rear main seal leaks.
the above oil is VC or Dizzy 0-rings. valve cover.

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nice work , thanks for sharing !!!

[GeoHacker]

{ Help }

OK, when I finally had hope, I'm stuck. The thing won't back off the clutch/engine housing. It's stuck at about 1/2" backed off, with about a 1/4" worth threads still outside of the engine side, I mean those 2 studs at 3 and 9 o'clock (edit) that need to back out another 2 inches. I don't know if I have the back end or middle lowered too much (how much below or even with the former back mount should it be?) or what? I'm stuck using an elevated floor lift jack (on 4 x 4 covered over with 2 x 10) and with a wood caddy (metal straps around). And to top it off, getting out from under there, I gashed my head.

I worry I'm killing the input shaft. The distributor where the wood block is, is back near where it usually rides already, the wood block is loose (guess that's a factor of the studs backing out already some).

Not sure where is binding. I don't have $100 for the Harbor transmission jack, or any for a rental, so am stuck with this arrangement. I can support the rear with a rope some if needed, might level it some but then rollback is compromised. Given the geometries of how it lifts and where the caddy lays, the jack raises off level a teeny bit, so wonder if the back needs to come up some.

Hard to tell! Don't know if is binding in stud receptors or the shaft. Or if I missed some something (cable?) I have the electrical connector and one vent tube removed (transfer area)

[fixkick]

hello fellow kicker.
keep in mind, the fly wheel pilot bearing might be seized and to the shaft. (one of many failure modes)
keep the trans level. don't pull it tilted, or it will bid up. (the bind up as at pilot spline to disc spline.. and wants level)

tilt it ,get it all bolts out.
the jack it back up until that 1/2 " belt gap is even all around, by feel you can feel it start to float there.
now find a way to pry it back,

I use a wonder bar, with taped up end "duct-tape,again" , to keep damage low.
home made jacks work just as good as $100, (can)

if the pilot is seized, then it most be forced out, by more prying at bell gap. all around. Lots of patience, take breaks....

wonder bar
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index...pla_976339
or tire irons.
or and old leaf spring.
hard wood slats would be best, but may break. as a pry bar.

in desperation, one guy used a COME-ALONG tool, to the rear axle.

unlike some Isuzu, there is no magic locks inside. (clutch fork locking bs.)

the throw out bearing fits on the front of the trans input collar and it too can stick.
pry more after spraying, penetrating oil on the T/O bearing via said gap.

cheers, and good luck !!!

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one other trick
put a bottle jack with a 2x4 board small under front of engine
and jack the front of engine up, this makes it tilt up in front and , tilt down at the rear.
then you can pull the transmission a this new tilt angle.
the engine floats 50/50 on its mount, so you make it do what you want knowing that pivot point.

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the instruction in the book are for perfect cars.
in reality , few are.
i had to use 2 trees and "comealong" with chains, to pull the transfer case off my 5speed. due to PO, gone mad. (spline seized)

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tilt engine back, and then even the gap out, with tranny jack , then pry back at the gap.
do that while feeling the looseness at that gap, you will feel it get sloppy and loose at the gap. this is the point to pry it off.
or just wiggle and pull to the rear, (be ready to catch it) don't get hurt.

[GeoHacker]

Thanks! Will try. The original first 1/4" was when I applied force to the clutch lever, and it slid back, but then it was suspended only at the rear, not the middle with a cradle. I think the front-of-engine jack trick will help!

Will keep advised, and pic when out.

[fixkick]

if its not seized, and is level (balanced), it just slides out easy, only the spline friction ,but the throwout friction , must be ok, or the clutch pedal will lock.
leaving spline (that can have step (worn) up front , fighting you;.
and last the tip of the pilot, can stick there, if the bearing overheated.

[GeoHacker]

Well, after a horrible 2-week bout of pneumonia/bronchitis/sinusitis since I last posted, still feeling it, I got that sucker out finally, tonight. Not out from under yet, but lowered down to stage one (have to support, then lower the jack, to get to ground still).

What it took to get it out was an hour of sliding it all the way back in, then slamming back out as best I could by pushing on the jack support underneath, while a friend pulled on a rope from the back. We got 1/16" each cycle, and finally, lowering it some more, little push on the engine, thar it went. So I think (maybe) the splines were locked with gunk, and each push-pull let that get chiseled off, or I just had a seriously bad alignment problem, but it wasn't all that

[GeoHacker]

Anyhow, will post a pic when it's all out and I can inspect.

Current events. I wiggled the input shaft as best I could get to it, it isn't very loose, so my noise problem must be somewhere else. ( fourth and fifth whine )

The mess:


The hack jack:


Free at last

[fixkick]

Houston we have Separation.......!!!
thanks for sharing, and the great photos.

i use a tiny film of real brake grease on those splines and tip. high temp brake grease sold at all counters for $1 in catchup pack. use only the least possible.

i see no notching here, the input shaft looks ok.... after wire brushed.

nice work !!!!!

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noise can come from any bearing in the box.
if in the box (stethoscope proved)
its a constant mesh box. so all bearings must be good.
1 - 5.
luck the rebuild kits are pretty cheap $125, new bearings and synchro's...

the only hard part is the hidden ball bearing locks inside and measuring the magic gap first. before dismantling the box.

the fly pilot cant whine , with foot off clutch. it dont spin then.
the disc neither.
some PP Pressure plates can do this odd, get worn and rattle deal but hand inspected, you find any loose parts its bad..

i put duct tape on my box pilot shaft, end. and put it to a 1/2 drill motor. gently tightened.
spin it in call gears, then shift, and use a $5 stethoscope all over the case. to find noise.... (luck happens here... )

was the GL4 black as tar and gritty?
evidence, here, helps.
most boxes whine (bad) even in neutral. but not if the rear main shaft has bad bearings.(stops whine out of gear)
and 4th gear is no gear, it just a locked up main shaft end to end, so if it whines only in 4th that is odd.

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pneumonia
so sorry for that, very very dangerous. that.... hope you mend well...

yes, the labor can get long.
having others to help , can shorten time and unstick things...
and the longer its together like that, the harder they come out. rust etc.
some have spline damaged or the horrid melted fly pilot bearing, even to the point of wrecking the trans input shift tip. (i have spare like that, and is useless)