Fuel traces in EGR Valve.

[Zook.dawg]

.
The mechanic also did a reg to valve.
Can a wrong valve regulation cause those problems?

I'm hoping he didn't mean fuel pressure regulator. As he was working on the throttle body it sounds like

[fixkick]

reg to valve ,means noting here (sorry but no)

reg means regulator, and is not rocker valve gap(lash)
there are many regulators on the car,
FPR = fuel pressure regulator is on the front side of the throttle body. and is an altitude only compensating device. (or dirty air clear too)

the other regulators
the whole ECU is.
the voltage regulator in the alternator

the evap line regulator.'
some VIT cars have brake valve regulator for the rear brakes.
fans bower heater regulator
AC AMP regulator (air conditioning option)
if automatic trans , endless reglators inside.



what matters most is fuel pressure, key on 3times no start. 34-41psi
and idle fuel pressure, and will not change on THIS engine, with thottle angle. 34-41psi
that is suzuki spec. we check it on the 8v at the fuel filter at front of gas tank, 6mm test port.(screw plug removed on banjo bolt there)

[Amf3ar]

Here I am again.

Sadly I stopped working on my car due to bad weather (still dont have a covered place for it).
Yesterday I replaced the whole exhaust mainfold with new gaskets (took a while and some blasphemy but I did it lol).
Replaced all the gaskets and cleaned the TB.
I just found some white/milky thing under the oil cap. Dunno if is a sign of bad head gasket or simply condense due the fact the car was stopped for days...
Anyway.
- Still get water dripples from exhaust but the white smoke is alot less than before.
- As I start the engine the RPM go to 850/900 even if the car is cold.
- A weird sound coming from the air intake (atleast seems so...maybe from the TB...but it's really strange...). I've done a video of it...

https://youtu.be/0bh48f1zNZE

[fixkick]

that mike is water from never getting engine fully hot and driving say 100 miles, that cooks the engine dry of water.
H20 is by product of burning gas so is ever present.
that water on tail is normal for same reason of burning gas, what all other cars on cold mornings same deal
but you never get engine fully hot and run it to that water drip gone. the water is still there hot but is now invisible steam.
850 on cold engine is wrong, dead wrong. the iAC is dead, or engine is misfiring like mad.
video shows unavailable.

if the tail pipe on a fully 100% hot engine (180f +0 drips, and say after 20 miles, the you have a bad head gasket or cracked block/head.
that hit smoke

here take out the dipstick on any car (not Tesla, lol) and drip that oil on the hot exhuast, see smoke, smell it.now you know smoke.
then if the exhuast smells like smoke it is.
if not, it smells sweet like burning antifreeze the bingo that.

it is that simple. to learn that smoke an steam are not the same nor same cause say bad valve seals. that most cars this old HAVE.

that water thing is way way worse, if engine hot(really 150f is not) and 20 miles, water drip is very very bad.
for all I know car has DRIP and steam and real oil smoke, sure could.

why not do a compression test, and a rad leak down test?
the former is easy at WOT.

[Amf3ar]

Oh, sorry for the video.
Here is the fixed link.
It was set as private...

https://youtu.be/0bh48f1zNZE

About the compression test...I did it few months ago and results were a lower comp on one cylinder but still in spec ranges.
I'll do another one just to be sure and I'll post results here as soon as I get them.
PS: the weird sound recorded just appeared after the mechanic cleaned the TB months ago but the fast idle problem was already present.
Those days I've replaced (and cleaned) the whole TB with another one (used).
The car, once started, was making a weird noise from the ISC so I replaced the new (used) one with the previous and the noise disappeared. (lately I noticed the ISC was kinda dirt inside...)
I was thinking to replace the IAC with the other one just to see if the fast idle works.
Still cant get rid of that strange noise I recorded

[Amf3ar]

Ok...searching on internet I just found a video that shows exactly the same noise I have.
The guy of the video says it's the IAC.
Can be caused by that?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpVf-NzCuDs

[fixkick]

8v '93 sidekick

yes, the ISC (IAC is in base of TB ) (cold start idle , water temp. operated idle speed , device, no wires here)
ISC is top and is electric. (TB top right, side, drivers seat perspectives)

that sound in the 1st video (2nd is ford) is clear.
is from the TB induction. as he demonstrated.

this car runs perfectly with that huge air tube off, for deeper analysis of Induction air noises. if present.
one can use stethoscope sold for $5 in all autostores to listen to vast parts on car, and for sure pressed to the ISC casing up top left in video is the ISC
the ISC is just an ELECTRIC air valve. closes by internal spring. this valve is what does 800 RPM hot idle speeds, Idle speed controller., ISC.

the ECU modulates the ISC at 200 times a second, and if the ISC was to get very badly warn this 200 Hertz sound can be heard.

here is what 200Hz sounds like to humans. seems a match; NO ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvF0iMiIOUU

[fixkick]

remove the ISC , clean it, and get it very clean>?
if that makes it works spray some graphite lube inside?

isc video test , after cleaned, sounds like this with 12vdc power pack. (short fast test, do not over heat coil inside , holding 12vdc there for more than seconds)
ISC video short:
http://www.fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html#ISC

I clean the 2 dirty parts at same time
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/cleaning-...uble1w.JPG


http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/IAC-E-tests.html

in most cases the ISC works great after cleaning it.
i might make noise, now this old, many folks would just ignore that, if idle speeds were good hot. 800 rpm , then turn on head lamps and heater blower same time, see if it holds at 800.rpm.
but noises can be a pain to hear all the time ,and is very personal choice.

Good luck finding your cars noises ! and Cheers to you.

[Amf3ar]

Hello again!
Due to some RL issues I had not much time to spend on my car (sadly)...but I've done some work on her...

PROBLEM:
- Fast idle at cold starts is dead. Just goes from 400 to 900-1000rpm in 2seconds. But it start at 1st try.
Then I hear the engine "trying" to rise in rpm with no luck...(rpm sound is like increasing and decreasing. just a bit, the rpm indicator cant recognize it but I can simply hearing the engine noise)
- when hot, the idle stick at 900/1000rpm. If I give gas then fix to 800-850 (all accessories off)
- Engine shakes quite badly when at IDLE. Hot or cold is the same. Seems like is misfiring...
- after driving, if I stop (engine still on) rpm stuck to 1500 for like 10sec. then 850rpm idle. This occurs sometimes not always...

WORK DONE:
- new rotor cap.
- new sparks (NGK BPR5ES)
- new spark wire (NGK blue)
- new exhaust mainfold with gasket (the old one was cracked)
- cleaned the whole TB
- cleaned the ISC valve and tried another one (but nothing changes)
- checked for valve lash (0.15mm in and 0.19out)
- dashpot seems ok
- all hoses replaced (just to be sure)
- EGR valve closed (with a plate)
- new fuel tank (the old one was full of rust)
- new fuel pump (the old one was gone...) + fuel filter
- engine mounts are quit new (1yr old)

Best regards!

[fixkick]

Hello again!
Due to some RL issues I had not much time to spend on my car (sadly)...but I've done some work on her...

PROBLEM:
- Fast idle at cold starts is dead. Just goes from 400 to 900-1000rpm in 2seconds. But it start at 1st try.
 Then I hear the engine "trying" to rise in rpm with no luck...(rpm sound is like increasing and decreasing. just a bit, the rpm indicator cant recognize it but I can simply hearing the engine noise)
- when hot, the idle stick at 900/1000rpm. If I give gas then changes to 800-850 (all accessories off) this is normal I think. but only in Europe. (idle rules hot ,slightly different there)
- Engine shakes quite badly when at IDLE. Hot or cold is the same. Seems like is misfiring... this is misfire.
- after driving, if I stop (engine still running) rpm stuck to 1500 for like 10sec. then 850rpm idle. This occurs sometimes not always... (ISC sticking>?

WORK DONE:
- new rotor cap.
- new sparks (NGK BPR5ES)
- new spark wire (NGK blue)
- new exhaust mainfold with gasket (the old one was cracked)
- cleaned the whole TB
- cleaned the ISC valve and tried another one (but nothing changes)
- checked for valve lash (0.15mm in and 0.19out)
- dashpot seems ok
- all hoses replaced (just to be sure)
- EGR valve closed (with a plate)
- new fuel tank (the old one was full of rust)
- new fuel pump (the old one was gone...) + fuel filter
- engine mounts are quit new (1yr old)

Best regards!

GREETINGS TO YOU: and a lot of hard work you did, there, and all good work.

Just goes from 400 to 900-1000rpm in 2seconds. (this  is what is called IDLE HUNTING or IDLE SURGE (not sure in Italian me? but for sure you are welcome here)

when any 8valve engine hunts that means you have air leaks, 400 to 900 is 500 rpm HUNT, SURGE.
The ECU does that  (via ISC top right side of TB) hunting trying hard to get idle to correct properly.
Top cases of hunting are vacuum leaks, and are hard to find but can be found.


the big clue is MISFIRE>  the engine fueling is wrong for some reason, and is running very rich.

• idle controls will fail if the engine is MISFIRING , idle controls are the last thing to work correctly 400RPM is crazy wrong,  until fuel and spark are good.
  
• Is engine compression reading good 150PSI x 4... (10.4 Bar or ,1040 KPa.)
  
• Is spark timing correct?
  
• is the injector cleaned ? (remove and cleaned with ultrasonic cleaner? , if fuel was bad or rust this injector will fouled up)
  
• Is fuel pressure at SPEC?
  
• Does the ECu flash code 12 (good) on demand? 'Diagnostic jumper clip/wire"
  
• Does misfire get better or end with 02 (lambda) sensor is unplugged,? oxygen sensor)
  
• When the TB was removed was the TV throttle valve closed 99.9% (.0005 gap. 0.125 Millimeters, aprox.  so close water fails to pass? the gap)
  

Im am guessing but the 400 RPM will be gross rich (fllodding) misfire, and spark tops look wet with fuel,
does the injector leak, if 2 persons:
1: one at key, turns off running engine,
2: 2nd person looking down air horn of TB and at inject in front if eyes, person to turns key off and person to sees inject stop fuel dead, instantly?


testing at #2
this engine runs ok with the air horn pipe removed from top of TB (left and right large pipe) just  know that backfiring engine is present can burn eyebrows, ok?>
due care, during this test.
This one injector may be in bad shape from bad fuel.