Fuel rail firewall side leaking gas?

[zukitrek]

you mentioned SK53? I think they have at the store and now because I saw the OEM ones I would know for sure if they are the ones.
But for sure is the B&A one, at least in my type of injector.

158-0898

   

Red o-ring goes in injector inside rail, at rail side one cushion with edges and lines and the solid cushion at IM.

That is the one.

J

[fixkick]

good luck finding the correct part, if you do , please tell which fit.
ill update that page. with those facts.

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btw, last ones i bought long ago, had different catalogs
i can not predict, any aftermarket makers actions, not ever.
best is to walk in, and match parts, for all parts. over counter.
best of best.
if buying from suzuki, it will be a long down time.

[zukitrek]

That is the actual best method. Original part in hand and checking against auto part version. Did I tell you about my main bearing story?. I ordered the bearings by brand (king) and using their catalog and if I had not the original in hand it would have been another hassle. My part saved me that time. That is always a sure thing.

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Well I can tell you right now, if Beck & Arnley part is as the photos I posted, that is the part. I'll check SK53 at the store to see but B&A 158-0898 they don't carry it.

Will let you know.

J

[fixkick]

i think the only store that carries, them all is ROCKauto.
no one else, never see it anywhere.
main bearings?
mains are not just swapped out, the clearances on all rod and mains are very tight. guessing is a very very bad idle there.
i can suggest great books on topic. very good.
when you work a block who knows what is there, nobody, we use MIKEs and bore gauges, with TLC . we dont guess ever.
no to mention the suzuki parts (other OEMs) are all color coded with sub grades.
so we mike it and read the color codes, on side of shell. then decide what was there, and if worn, and with the limits on the table, decide what to do .
buying bearings is the last step, in a long hard process, took me 10 hrs labor ,just the measurements. on just the block.
the parts guy will not know what bearing shells are in your hand, how would he? tell me>??
of all parts on a car , this one part, is special, its not like radio knobs , or shifter plastics.

books, amazon, or barnes an noble, some are on NOOK for PC'
Racing engine builders. by tom monroe
engine blue printing, by Rick Voegelin

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/the-engi...1557882455

bearings can fail for 2 reasons. (old and worn , or lack of oil) or you spun it?
the builder measures the shells and journals to find out what side is worn, the journal the shell or both.
if say, just the shell is wore, then you need to find out what shell was there, no man knows that. (lack of marks on it , nor maker!)

so you then measure the journal and buy the perfect sized shells. ( the OEM may not fit, see why?)
in most cases we get the crank ground or just polished, then mike it and get matching shells. the crank grinder will tell you what shells and what brand is best.
it's never guessed at ever.
Then i do all 3 steps at assemble again
Bore gauge the shell under full torque.
then journal, I then subtract the above, from crank, size, and this is clearance size , if wrong, you did it wrong.
i then do plastigage , just to make sure i didnt do something wrong, i never use plastigage alone to build any engine. never.
i hope my post inspires you to read the books from real builders, i owe them big time for saving me a fortune and wasted time,.

[zukitrek]

Oh, I forgot, this happened to my engine rebuild for the civic not the Vitara. The Viitara engine has not been rebuilt

[fixkick]

it dont matter, all engines are like this, water cooled. (water cooled more tricky )
all.
you are lucky they fit, after all , you dont know what brand was there or size and how many times changed out already.
never change bearings , unless , seen to be bad (corrosion damage ) or if you measured them first. never.
They were precision set by someone, a builder or the factory, and is non trivial. if you have low oil pressure, then we check bearings. or noises. with TLC, never wild guessing.
this is true on all engines.
we use measuring tools, to get it right. never guess.
done at the 90 degree point of shell, never near the oil ports. bearings are not round. (one more thing to learn)

[zukitrek]

Yes, I know. I did not know any better at the time of my rebuild. Lots of reading and learning by error plus the tight budget. Next rebuild will be very different. My plan is to use this engine a couple of more years but at the same time rebuild a newer engine that fits my shell. Never had a problem with oil pressure. The old one were OEM (color coded, you could still see the color swatch after all these years). Kick so in my next rebuild crank should be definately measured, but who does that or is it better getting/renting/buying the measuring tool? Or better at the machine shop?

Hopefully she will hold.

[fixkick]

there are only 2 or 3 paths, that engine runs for 300k with no problems , if oil is changed. and not allowing overheats ever. (hoses new?)
hoses dont last 20 years, sorry
yes, you can in fact buy a short block or long block, ready to go. rebuilt.
or have any machine shop do it. (drop the block on the counter, and say, make it like new. ive done this many a time. (busy at work for years)
heads are sold exchange, rebuilt and are way cheaper than any machine shop here, ( $400 for 16v) I buy the heads from huge rebuilders in LA.
or DIY, but you need the book and all tools,. or its impossible.

Some places on earth have no real machine shops. or are no good.
Do you know guys that race? if yes, they will tell you in 1 second how they are. easy.
Ask local mechanics which machine shop is best for engines. some will answer truthfully others will do the staving babies deal, you are cheating me..... bla bla.

[zukitrek]

Haha!! All these tune-ups I've done perhaps are a semi training for the actual rebuild/swap or what ever when time comes, for the Sidekick. For now like I said T-belt is next and check everything in the area. Hopefully no key is damaged. I will definitely use your pages regarding that matter. Thanks for reminding me. I know two hoses that are new(installed by me) upper and lower are the original, I think. The rest is new (radiator, stat and gasket, connecting pipe and water pump).

Yes I know 2 local shops, one with over 30 years doing this engines. They did my block (the Honda). Just resurfacing it to make flat again. They were the ones that found it was slightly warped (25 years of neglection).
I was going and about to install everything back(tight budget reasons), when doubt overwhelmed me and decided to take it to the machine shop.

J

[fixkick]

yes, pro shops take that head and bake it back to unwarped (over heated heads warp) then mill it.
if your shop dont do that, then you put the milled head back and as you drive it wants to return to day one CASTed shape and fails again.
the process is called normalizing.
ask pro head shop about this, it's standard now.

this is like #1 reason for reworked heads to fail( overheated) the warp and the shop skips this vital step.
and not getting surfaces right.

Most engine are damaged from lack of oil or allowed to overheat.
early.