Fuel pump access

[Pavel14]

Before I rip up the original carpet to check (vehicle is 3 hours away from home), is there possibly a "hatch" in the rear deck to access the fuel pump in the tank? I expect there isn't. Does anyone know the exact position of the fuel pump on the top of the tank? I would then cut a hole - very carefully - and make a hatch.

I know manufacturers want the cabin to be fully sealed so they often do not provide a hatch, but it makes life much more pleasant than pulling the tank.

Thank you, Pavel

[fetcher]

As far as I know, there is no access panel. I was thinking to add one. You should be able to see from underneath where the pump mounts
in relation to the rear deck. You can then measure, or maybe just count the stamped stiffening ribs. Then I might drill a small hole from
inside to check accuracy with respect to the center point of the fuel pump. I would then fab something up to get good seal for the
access panel and keep the stiffness of the deck panel. The bigger concern is it is likely that you need to remove the tank anyhow
because the tank mounts are rusting away. There's a guy in Canada that makes them for like $150.00.

[fixkick]

we find out later its RUST PIT.
opps
why ask how to fix a rust pit
there is no answer to that.
its like saying how to build a new house in a bomb out pit.
with great skill and luck
rust sucks. x10

[Pavel14]

fixkick,

The vehicle is a '94 4dr Sidekick with 40k mile 16V fi engine - running pretty well. The fuel pump works fine but there's quite a bit of sound coming out of the tank area so I expect the pump is almost ready to die. Thought I'd get a new pump and prepare for the inevitable. Thanks for the link to your site - will check to see if there's a connection on the fuel filter for a Harbor Freight pressure gauge.

Cheers, Pavel up north.

[fetcher]

When I was installing the new gas tank mount, I had the opportunity to add an access for the fuel pump assembly. I chose not to do so because
I did not wish to deal with the extra job of getting it sealed and as strong as if there was no hole cut out. Basically, I was lazy because I was
already doing a lot of welding and fabrication on the rusted out areas under there. Things besides the gas tank mount were worthless
like the curved tube behind the bumper, and the tubes that hold the trailing arm mounts. I welded in frame patches too. But, I guarantee
that I could cut out a hole for a fuel pump access panel without damaging anything on the gas tank. I usually cut sheet like that with
metal cut off wheels, angle grinder and electric die grinder. I did add access to the "ping pong ball" gas tank check valve so that if I ever
needed to drain the tank I should be able to get a tube around the ping pong ball.

Yes, I would start with a new fuel filter. Even if it turns out the pump noise was caused by a worn out pump, there is no loss since if you
need to install a new pump, an old filter should be changed out too. When I changed out the fuel filter after I first got the car, I cut it open
and saw that it was packed with dirt.

[Pavel14]

    Here's a shot of the hatch I made in our old Willys wagon - the red circle is where the original fuel tank's "sender" used to be located. I'd love to do the same in our "new" Sidekick.

[fetcher]

Right, I wanted to do the same. Once you cut it out either the piece cut out needs to be bigger, or the hole you have left
needs to get smaller. How did you choose to do it?

[fetcher]

I don't know what kind of tools this guy has access to, but for me I wouldn't even do any measuring.
From under car with cordless drill gun, into the required length extension if needed, to right angle drive
adapter with small drill bit installed. Since I'm still not yet cross-eyed, it should be very close to dead on
center of fuel pump assembly. You can get better with a chuck but this would work:
   

[Pavel14]

        Here's a couple more pictures of the "hatch" I made. Understand, this is an old Willys wagon that has wooden slats over the valleys of the steel bed. It worked out well. Perhaps i can do the same in our "new" Sidekick...

I removed the Willys fuel tank first, wanting to avoid any possible explosion and then attacked the floor with my jigsaw (careful measurement and four corner 'pilot' holes drilled first). Once the hole was cut and dressed, I made up a frame (arrow) from 16 gauge that would provide a base for the hatch to be fastened down. It takes a little time to mimic the contour of the floor and to weld up the four pieces into a nicely fitting frame.

A simple foam gasket was fashioned and the subfloor hatch frame was screwed down with pan-head sheet metal screws left over from a steel stud wall project. It is important to make the hatch as air (or carbon monoxide or fire) tight as possible. As mentioned before, I knew manufacturers don't like any holes in the passenger cabin structure but since our Volvo 850 has such a hatch, it seemed like a reasonable risk - after all Volvos are pretty safe vehicles.

[fetcher]

Looks good to me. Being lazy, the "It takes a little time to mimic the contour of the floor and to weld up the four pieces into a nicely fitting frame" part is what I chose to avoid at the time. I would push something over the tank, maybe sheet metal or masonite or whatever I had to protect from the jigsaw blade. I think it's going come out really great for you.