Engine Water Temp?

[Deadduck]

Just wondering what temp the stock gauge moves at to hot as I have an aftermarket temp gauge and when I had a blocked radiator the temp would get up to around 110 degrees Celsius (230F) and my gauge still sat just under half where it normally sits the gauge does go up to hot when earthed out so that part is fine. also what would be the max temp I would run the engine to?

I have a 94 Vitara (AU/NZ) market 16 Valve G16B fuel injected

Thanks

[fixkick]

the stock gauge is a toy, see the lack of numbers there?
its only for , gee, why is it hotter , now, then when i bought the car new. (or last week)
here is my gauge page
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/Gua...-test.html
a brand new 195 stat.
stats come an a many numbers temperatures, choices, would wide. (here in usa maybe just one with EPA laws) here its 180f on old cars, and 200 new. by law
but if you shop around one can find 160, 170, 180, 192, and 195, and 200. world wide, which do you have?, and matters big time with the dash meter reads.
on a new car, (or one not malfunctioning,) the gauge never moves ever. once hot.

that is the purpose of this system total regulation of temperature.
the stock dash gauge, also is a bit non linear. adding to toy effect....

230f is an over heated engine, and needs service. fast. (under what conditions not stated) or it if gets worse you invite a warped engine head.

the 200f or near thermostat (or 192/195) gives the best MPG, or KM per liter, the stock is 180f... brand new car. out the door.
Example:
lets say the temp stamped on your stat casing, is marked 200F or 100c. so what should it do, well will run at 100C all the time. I use an IR gun a $15 tool to see if it is near there.

If at idle temps start creeping up say at a stop sign, that means the fan on the radiator is dead, is yours stock still or modified to electric? fan?

this can be seen and proved by noting the 100F never creeps up , moving fast, as air past the radiator keeps rad cool, regardless of that fan.

one other fact, the stock radiator has extra overhead, it's designed to have say 25% more cooling capacity than needed, under all conditions, (lots of those there are, like at 10,000ft mountain.)

Next is what is your AF coolant, is it at 50% now< it must be to get the 260F boil over protection needed, on all cars. 127C (one more key and simple fact)
and last on the easy list is a working RAD cap. at 12psi or more, is it? easy fix, low cost.
when engine is hot is the top rad hose hard as a rock , with that 12psi pushing back on your hand as you squeeze it? (hot engine, er, 100c)

http://www.fixkick.com/overheating.html

[fixkick]

if you had a real scan tool
you could also scan the PCM and SEE ECT reads, 100c.
on newer cars, this is like step one, see what ECT reads,

[Deadduck]

I have an 82c (179f) thermostat I have rebuilt the engine since then I had a blowen headgasket no warped or cracked head does get up to 90-95c temp now also creaps up when stopped I got stock fan so looking at getting electric I am running 50% antifreeze mix cap is 14psi new cap

[fixkick]

I have an 82c (179f) thermostat.
I have rebuilt the engine since then.
I had a blown headgasket.
not a warped or cracked head.
it does gets up to 90-95c temp now. (bad) but under what conditions, does it do that at 100km/hr?
also it creeps up when stopped. (does it moving fast and parked sure)
I got a stock fan so looking at getting electric. no need really if fails moving, fix the moving overheat first.
I am running 50% antifreeze mix. (good)
cap is 14psi new cap, good but does it work. (hard hoses hot?, means it works ok, if not?, sure its not the caps fault but is STILL WRONG) and is job 1.

95c is wrong dead wrong, the stat is 82c how can the coolant get past that, it can,t unless rad cores are packed.
or the fan is dead, nothing at all wrong with a stock fan . electric is pain as now you need , water temp switch to run that and that adds more work , wires, fuses, and spec fitting to get the sensor , mid stream on a hose.

the correct temp on your car is 82C (180f )
the causes.
clogged rad tubes, easy work to find, with any IR gun. super easy ask.
bad stat, no its new.
fan dead at idle, but move car fast the fan is mostly useless, so if car onlyover heats parked, bingo fan.
if fan is good, and rad good.
the its a possible pump impeller, is rusted to nothing

you skipped my pressure tests. top hose hot sure, but hard when hot? 12psi pushing back at you?????? if dont know how to do that, try a good car
do that, learn to feel top hose and how it wont let you squeeze it easy, when hot, that is 12psi pushing back.
if no pressure that is a very bad sign.
5min work on a hot car,.super easy test,

most head gaskets fail not for age or fun, it fails from overheated engine.
#1 cause.
so when we cure that problem, (its a victim in most cases the head gasket)
we find the true cause, overheating.
if it does not hold pressure, then we must fix that first;. see? it means there s breach in the system if it will not hold pressure.
causes, of this breach.
1: head gasket blown (fixed) or cracks in head cooling paths, or leaking freeze plugs in head.
2: automatic trans, is that it? if A/t we make sure that cooler is not leaking AF to the trans box. next.
3; next, the block can be cracked. (freeze damage in winter )
4: rad cap bad, , no its new.
5; see external leaks, to ground, or to passengers toes on floor from heater core?

we use a rad leak down tool to see if the system is breached, we pump it up , see if it holds pressure, if not this is JOB1. finding it.
its a pressure system, and most hold pressure all the time hot...
12 to 14psi.

[fixkick]

my over heating page covers every single way to overheat.,
one is fan belt slip.
thermostat in backwards
same , air bleed hole in stat not up, trapping air in the block causes 3 things to go nuts/ eCT, stat and dash gauge.
is the fans , radiator shroud missing?

this fan clutch on this car does not work like other, cars.
read the words here (factory words)
http://www.fixkick.com/overheating.html#clutch
notice the regardless word , at iDLE
hot or cold the fan turns the same speed as the pump, notice they did not say engine, the engine pulley is bigger than the pump, pulley forming a step up in pump rpm and fan.
my guess is the ratio (easy to measure in 5min) is 7 for engine, and 4 for the pump that is a 1.75:1 ratio. means at 800 rpm hot the fan spins 1.75 faster.
so is 1400 rpm
i idle car, point my trusty , laser diode hand held RPM gage at the fan pulley and then the fan hub, and if both are 1400 rpm what do I know
I know in 5min work the cutch is not bad slipping and the fan belt dont slip either.
as engine races, the fast stops going faster (overheated at 55c air is overheated) the RPM of fan stops at 3100 rpm even when 5000 rpm engine spins pump pulley at 8750rpm as it sure does.
this limit prevents the fan blades from flying off hub, )

see? this is not a huge V8 engine with steel fan and slow crank., its a rice burner, "screams"

[fixkick]

5000x 1.75= 8750 rpm
measure the 2 pulleys to see true ratio, mine guess from 10 years ago.

[fixkick]

lets talk over head, means extra capacity of the cooling system.

extra RAD tubes, its extra for a reason.
extra flow on pump, is there.
pump spins fast , plenty fast all the time. unless belt slips. or vanes rust to 1/2 size.
the engines on this car can go to limp home mode and make too much extra heat ( long story not typing it ). and if the overhead is lacking, bam it overheats.


its like a boat with extra, side walls , high freeboard and high gunwale's , can go in deep ocean and not sink.
same with that rad, it has extra and longer tubes.
if one clogs, say there are 10 tubes, you lost 1/10th cooling extra capacity.
you need it up hills, and with 1000 lbs and 4 passengers aboard.

the engine makes huge heat
in fact 75% of the heat energy in the fuel is wasted to here Radiator and out tail pipe.
so all cooling systems have a huge heat load., yours lacks cooling..

[fixkick]

what do we do
answer
knock off the easy ducks.
50% AF, and full top of rad, forget side tanks for now, dead cold its full. not guessing but checking at the RAD NECK.
Cap good. new.
STAT new, 82c, may be put in backwards? or bleed hole not up.
belt not slipping,
DASH cluster Check engine light off running, and no flash codes, but 12= good.
no leaks. to ground
no leaks below cab heater.
no leaks in AT box.
no leaks anywhere
are you having to add AF coolant daily or every few days, oops time for a rad pressure pressure leak down test.
top hose when hot is HARD, 12psi, (its such and easy test, all mech do it not even thinking about it, its like mom checking child for fever....
we can even tell you that is 82c, near. by how fast hand flies off hose. ouch. its good ouch.... next the squeeze, oops no pressure,!!!!!!!!!!!!! STOP.
AF looked mud last flushed and refilled?
is radiator new. or relic.
was water pump changed at head replacement with new cam belt, (as a pair is smart both have near same life span)
if it was only inspected that pump head off (i guess not) then the impeller blades are near gone. seen them vast times like this, due to , zero AF service ever.
then check the fan for 1400 rpm hot and cold, engine, at idle. ok fan ok... so easy with tools.
if all checks out the rad cores are blocked.

in the end game, it gets down to bad pump , bad rad, i use my IR temp. gun check rad tubes, and all tube read same top bottom , omg, rads ok pumps shot.
all that is easy. cept that pump.

[Deadduck]

This is on my offroader going down motorway at 100km is fine 79-82°c its when im going up a hill ect or offroad on a hill or just stopped when it goes up I turn it off when we stop for a little bit as it gets a bit warm and I don't like it. whole block/ head was dipped and cleaned new belt water pump and everything thermostat is in the right way I'm an auto sparky so electrics are all easy which is why I was going to swap or have an assist fan on the front as well as stock