Engine starts and then dies.

[justgoit]

First off I can't believe you made fixkixk a page. Holy man have I read a lot of it.. But anyways...
The truck is a Cali 95 tracker 1.6l 16v. I followed your page and rebuilt my engine basically(everything but pistons due to perfect combustion). I have put it back in the truck and done all the timing, dizzy, lash, torque all up to your specs. I don't not have the valve cover on, nor WP and other things that run off that belt. I have my intake and exhaust manifolds on and my air filer with MAF to the intake on. When I turn the key I can hear fuel being pumped and visual( squirt test). I can start the engine but only for 1-5 seconds. Sometimes fast foot helps sometimes not. Starter fluid did have it going but its on and off. I have a brand new fuel pump and filter. FPreg passes tests. All injectors show 13.6 and noid perfectly. Egr shut completely and opens via tests, bark good with mod, ISC doesn't rattle when shook, I tested the TPS but it says reverse for the volts (4.5 at close and .5 at WOT). Maybe I tested wrong, calibrated using your 16v procedure, didn't find the proper V on third pin from bottom. Compression is all 170. all intake ports were cleaned thoroughly. Spark is great, gapped to spec. I put fresh fuel in. Full charged battery. I am getting 0 volts to my egr vsv, not sure if that's proper. I have gone over the grounds I can identify and clean thoroughly.
I'm so stumped. its been three full days now reading your page and tring to figure this out !! just want my first rebuilt to fire up.

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Check engine light is on with key and does turn off the times I can keep the motor running..

[fixkick]

first is compression , got 150psi or more.. most doe 180psi or more hot , W.o.t> yours cold will do at least 150 psi ,at sea level.
it will run.. keep the faith! ok you got 170, cam seems timed right, at E marks....
next is timing the distributor correct. and with correct rotation direction (shown wrong in most books, cept suz books)
i cant hear the test fuel test run, but did it sound and run perfect.? for like 3 seconds every test.
if not ? this must be right.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/firing16v.jpg

the the spark timing must be near 0, is it ?


the egr, volts are odd, VSV are odd, they default oddly, open, and when ecu wakes up, they close.
TPS
the tps volts are about 1v at idle (meter lead to ground black. pin3 , gray only wire . and go over 4 volts WOT.
there are 4 pins, and bottom pin on TPS is ground,and reads near 0v, if not the ecu ground is cut. pih 3 is throttle angle, gray.
if pin 3 was backwards ( the TPS/ECU logic, the ECU cuts all fueling...)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/95-TPS-adj1w.jpg
is engine flooding, ? or not?

ok my check list. (when did engine last run ok, last year, who knows when, long ago?)
1: compression 170 checked, good.
key on CEL glows (and flips off above 400rpm> start detection, good)
Does the ECU flash code 12 , on demand (diag jumper inserted to DLC next to the battery?)????
2: spark #1 firing near zero.... strobe tested. all 4 sparks firing...?
2a; spark wires routed correctly ,1,3,4,2, CCW. rotor direct. http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/firing16v.jpg
3: test fuel runs engine, ok.... and sounds really really good. no banging sounds, and sounds like a normal engine should. test like this.
4: fueling is bad. and next and last.
is it flooding or starving ? for fuel.... (spark tips checked? after cranking session)

dry plugs are lack of injection if it don't start. (i the 3rd pin is not near 1v, but found like at 4vdc cranking the ECU cuts fuel. ( it thinks driver is doing the unflood method) pin 3 gray is throttle ANGLE.. at idle , the volts are not critical !,, must about 0.5 to 1v realm here. pin 3. the ecu self calibrates this pin.
DID car last run ok,like 3 years ago?, yes, then the injectors might be clogged, those 10micron screens do that, with bad fuel....
(key clue here is 30psi fuel pressure , noid test passes, but no fueling happens, the injectors are packed or jammed)
Last:
wet is flooding. (1 flooding or all 4 flooding? is one more key clue and fact.)
if flooding, we check lots of things, a whole new ball of wax if all the above is ok (compression spark etc) the exception is a melted CAT, do you have CAT still?
wet is (if spark good and timed right)
excessive fuel pressure, or bad FPR, most 1995 the PFR is bad or near so. if still 20 years old, they take a beating,,,,
what is fuel pressure.? keyon 3 time, then what is fuel pressure cranking,,
36psi keyon
and drops to 30 running, is typical
or
43 keyon to 37 runnng....
per this page
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/16...ess95W.jpg


the key on pressure must not be 60psi, if is the FPR is stuck closed or its return line crushed,(blocked)

if the ECT reads, -40f , engines can food,
using and ohm meter, it will read near 3000 ohms..(higher on very cold days) and 300 ohms on hot running engine.



if cat is suspect, i made this page too.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/cat-con-tests.html


the FPR will be near

TPS comments( nice testing btw)
pin 3 on the TPS must not be 4v, or anywhere near that. if it is someone wired it backwards. or pin 1 ground on the TPS is cut , the TPS steals its ground form deep in side the TPS, from the TPS ground pins....
id be all over pin 1......... if pin 3 reads wrong..... id be.....
test the TPS while plugged in.

the tps pin 3 , the ECU has a pull down resistor inside, so that if the TPS blows up, pin 3 falls to 0. not 4v.
keep tps plugged in and back probe it,
pin 4 is 4.75 to 5.25vdc(power)
pin 1 is 0v.
pin 3 is about 1v. (tps is not accurate on ohms, its very crude) 3500- 6500 ohms(pin 1 to 4) is the range, yes, crude it is. and works just fine like that.


good luck ! and cheers.

[justgoit]

Hey sorry ive been away for the weekend but here are some things!
-The engine ran just great a month ago before I tore it all down. Added fresh fuel at start up
-Compression is at a good 170 across the board, ecu does flash code 12.
-All sparks are good and timing is darn near close to 0! All wires firing in ccw order 1342.
-Test fuel runs great, motor doesn't shake or sounds funky.
-Spark plugs aren't dry but I also wouldn't say they look flooded, if anything its just the little bit of gas that didn't ignite as the engine stalls.
TPS I rechecked using what you have said above, Pin1 0v/ pin3 .97v/ pin4 5.07v.
-the cat cant be suspect because my exhaust isn't back on yet, just header.

[fixkick]

no starts.
compression ok 150psi or more.???
spark good. 1,3,4,2 order CCW.
runs on test fuel, does it sound good on test fuel during the spray tests? ?????????????
so what is next.
check engine light flashes 12s with DIAG jumper in place?
and if you crank for 5 seconds , you release key and it flashes 12s still? ??????
ok what is next , fuel pressure. if pressure is 36psi key on, and holds cranking ?then pressure is good
that mean the injectors are clogged up.. (pressure ok + noid ok but weak or no injections means they are packed)

if the spark plugs are dry and near dry after all that cranking , then the injectors are not injecting, as a normal engine would, if say you unplugged all spark plug wires and they all flood cranking, all do, that. (cept if ecu sees spark die, above it cant see so??)

the timing is good, then test fuel runs hot fast and normal, if not ? the engine misfires , back fires... 1,3,4,2 is the order CCW rotor.
Running on test fuel is a very important step,... the sound, good or bad. only you know this....
if test fuel sounds good?, (practice on a good engine with fuel pump relay pulled and witness good runs )
that means its timed right too... so... including 1,3,4,2 rule.
then your injectors are dead. only why remains.


the screens have 10 micron screens inside (read ,unforgiving)!

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TPS is ok, its not activating cut fuel mode. so, it is not a problem here.

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the acid test for the injector
36psi on rail.
5mS injection pulses cranked. (if no pulses then you have DTC errors, missed by you, leave the diagnostic jumper in place)
no injection means, screens are packed, (all 4 can pack or say 3 or 2, and it wont run) the spark plugs must be soaking, if it dont start. must.

that is why I ask for code 12s cranked, to see that code 41 , or 42 or dead spark codes. this errors kill fueling pronto. on all cars. made. EFI.
the 3rd cause of TPS voltage, but its OK. so if you have 12s cranking, then the injectors are packed, if dry. (pressure good)

[hatchetman]

no hurry , no rushes here, ... good luck in your testing....

keep in mind fuel pump squirt test only finds a totally dead pump.
this engine needs 36psi to start. no 5 like carb, a carb will start with gravity tank, 0 psi (or .01 PSI)
never will EFI do that, so the test is near meaningless.
the key on pressure, (pump runs 3 sec) is 36PSI. nothing less.
the FPR is known to fail now, this old ,many have... the can fail in many a way, one way is stuck wide open and pathetic fuel pressures....
check the FPR nipple for fuel leaking out, a for sure sign its DEAD to the world.

[justgoit]

OKay well since everything else checks out I guess I will go get a fuel pressure guage... Also I just found out that my coil noise suppessor is just floating down, does it need to need placed somewhere to function properly, I heard this could cause fuel to be cut

[fixkick]

the suppressor was just taped down , day1. to the harness with black tape (plugged in of course)
it creates the tachometer signal if it falls of all injections end, DTC error 41, the dash tachometer goes dead too.
its really just spark read back from the coil, but is 100% necessary.

if the supressor falls off, (or connections fail for rust,etc) the injectors go dead, and the noid lamp test fails on all 4 injectors.

[justgoit]

I found the wire the suppressor was supposed to be taped to and put it back. truck fired up right away and seems to be good, going to put coolant system back in and try tomorrow. let you know, thanks for the help.

[fixkick]

great!
DTC code 41 errors
your DLC connector was missing? to do the jump


here they are,
for next time.....


http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html