ECU compatibility

[DesmondGhostRider]

I tried to jump a relay and fried my ecu and I'm looking at a replacement.

Does the ECU need to be listed for 4x4 to work with my 1995 MT 4X4?

All I'm seeing is 4X2 ECU's and I don't know if that makes a difference or if they are the same.

--

I'm not getting a check engine light before start up or the rev needle move at all so I think its dead.

[fixkick]

hello,
what relay?

are the 2 fuses hot, 12vdc on FI, and the IGcoil? 12volts on both sides?> of fuse.

no, the ecu's must match what you are driving ,exactly. but that depends on lots of facts I dont know.
if car is used like stump puller, in the back 40 or is it a DD./. daily driver.?
is it subject to smog tests?

the CEL must glow key on.
if not then fuses, if not fuses and you jumpered the MAIN relay or the fuel pump relay , wrong, that blows up the ECU.
main blows 1 diode and if the FP relay you blew up 1 transistor. (named on my ecu page.

note the parts that fit are here, see these PDF. just one for 1995 mt.

here is the PDF
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html#EPC
those are the official p/n. from suzuki, every one, and what fits what.
for a stump puller any part iD 1-7 up works.
if you use the wrong one, you will get code 51 and 53s for ever, but pulling stumps, they dont care about that.

the 70Exx series are fit 95s
if using a A/T ECU it may not idle right. in a M/T car.

the door count is only fine tuning for weight.
2wd is only on the A/T , and that overdrive of tcc lockup, i think the 4wd does not luck up in 4wd, but 2wd it does. but you dont have A/T

I tried to jump a relay and fried my ecu and I'm looking at a replacement.

Does the ECU need to be listed for 4x4 to work with my 1995 MT 4X4?

All I'm seeing is 4X2 ECU's and I don't know if that makes a difference or if they are the same.

--

I'm not getting a check engine light before start up or the rev needle move at all so I think its dead.

[DesmondGhostRider]

hello,
what relay?

are the 2 fuses hot, 12vdc on FI, and the IGcoil? 12volts on both sides?> of fuse.

no, the ecu's must match what you are driving ,exactly. but that depends on lots of facts I dont know.
if car is used like stump puller, in the back 40 or is it a DD./. daily driver.?
is it subject to smog tests?

the CEL must glow key on.
if not then fuses, if not fuses and you jumpered the MAIN relay or the fuel pump relay , wrong, that blows up the ECU.
main blows 1 diode and if the FP relay you blew up 1 transistor. (named on my ecu page.

note the parts that fit are here, see these PDF. just one for 1995 mt.

here is the PDF
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html#EPC
those are the official p/n. from suzuki, every one, and what fits what.
for a stump puller any part iD 1-7 up works.
if you use the wrong one, you will get code 51 and 53s for ever, but pulling stumps, they dont care about that.

the 70Exx series are fit 95s
if using a A/T ECU it may not idle right. in a M/T car.

the door count is only fine tuning for weight.
2wd is only on the A/T , and that overdrive of tcc lockup, i think the 4wd does not luck up in 4wd, but 2wd it does. but you dont have A/T

I tried to jump a relay and fried my ecu and I'm looking at a replacement.

Does the ECU need to be listed for 4x4 to work with my 1995 MT 4X4?

All I'm seeing is 4X2 ECU's and I don't know if that makes a difference or if they are the same.

--

I'm not getting a check engine light before start up or the rev needle move at all so I think its dead.

Do you have a pic of what I should be swapping on the ecu? Ive found a few pics but they are for the older trackers.

I use it for all my running around and off roading here and there. I'm in Arkansas and there's no inspection.

I'll double check all the fuses.

What amp do the relays use? Mine were both bad so I swapped em for ones off my geo metro.


Thanks for the help!

[fixkick]

the 95 came with 2 engine choices, 8v and 16v, first is to know what engine you have.? how many doors, 2 or 4?
1995, x valves, x doors. 4wd 5peed. this tells all i need, (the two engines run unique EFI systems)

do you have a voltmeter ? any at all?
the ecu has 2 power pins, that get power from MAIN

main must pull in , (energize) with key on,

im not going to look up if the geo relay work,its too late

those pins are clear. here.

ill guess 16v this show that drawing, type schematic in my search box and get
http://www.fixkick.com/schematics-run.html

the see this.
16v
see main, see blue-blk there
and pins A12 and A13 , both most be 12vdc key on.
main will have 12v on all pins key on and one pin with 0.7vdc (near zero) blue wire.

if 8v see its page.
i wish i new what you hot wired.
save me a ton of work knowing.....

[DesmondGhostRider]

Its a 1995 16 valve 2door convertible Manual with 4x4

I tried to jump the main relay. It didn't work so I swapped the relays after testing them. No other wiring has been changed by me. I haven't seen any evidence of it by the previous owner.

I have a test light and multimeter.

Tomorrow morning I'll test the fuses, relay wires, and for the 12v on the two ecu wires and post results.

Thank you for the help!

[fixkick]

ok 95 16v, 2dr
has -70EB0 ECU, out of factory (Cami, no less)

when you jumper the main. you risked shorting 12vdc raw power to the ECU enable pin, if you did that a 1 in 3 chance, the ecu blows out the diode
that enables that relay

that is diode D102 inside ecu, circuit board. boom, it cracks in half and "let the smoke out"
when you key on,
main relay: (3 checks and of good a 4th check (pin))
red-blk wire is at 12vdc hot. use a dmm to back probe this pin, meter black test lead to body shinny metal (ground)
and so is the- black white at relay main. , at 12vdc key on.
and the main blue wire will be at 0.7v (less than 1volt) this is the diode D102 working, if this reads 12vdc, this wire the now, then the diode is blown.

if the above is correct the blue-black main wire goes hot. (relay energizes and the ECU gets full power) and the CEL glows.
see pin A10 on the ECU see that Diode, (used on USA cars, if not USA?, it can have immobilizer options here,so...??)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png

if the diode is blown, its not hard to replace. any tech can solder in a new one. for way less than used $100 ECu would cost.


see my ecu page, and this photo ,see A11 marked there real clear. backup 1 pin, that is A10 and below it , is D102 right there.

---

A new 1N4004 diode will work (most common diode on earth)
if the diode is burned up the band (cathode) mark may be missing it goes to the right above ( the band is grounded in the PCB)

---

the goal is to get at key on, 12vdc to the ECU power pins, first. ECU pins A12 and A13, blue-black (blue with black stripe)
try the original relays, if you must swap relays, put the fuel pump relay (green socket) to the main socket. they are same relay.
using wrong relays invites blowing up ECU. if it shorts power to A10 , boom, out come the smoke, every time. like clock work.

[DesmondGhostRider]

ECU still doesn't have power.

I bought new relays that are the proper spec and installed them. I checked all the fuses under the dash and in the engine bay. Still no power. Battery was a little low from sitting with lights on so I threw a charger on it. No power to pins A12 or A13. I replaced diode.

Still no engine light or power to the pins to power it.

I took readings from the relays. I didnt think to write down the colors, but I wrote them out as 1, 2, 3, 4. 1- Top Left, 2 - Top Right, 3 - Bottom Left, 4 - Bottom Right. The top is indicated by the tap facing upward.

Green - Pump
Key On
1. Positive - 13.63v
2. Negative - 14.46v
3. Positive - 13.69v
4. Negative 14.14v

Key Off
1. Negative - 14.38v
2. Negative - 14.38v
3. Negative - 14,38v
4. Negatie - 14.38v

White - Main
Key On
1. Positive 13.89v
2. Positive 14.10v
3. Positive 13.92v
4. Negative 14.09v

Key Off
1. Negative 14.38
2. Positive 14.36
3. Negative 14.38
4. Negative 14.32

I'm guessing its
1. Constant
2. Switched
3. To Device
4. Ground

It looks like there might be some slight leaking on my C103 Capacitor. I'm going to get that swapped out tomorrow.

I might try soldering another diode in D102 to make sure it wasnt just damaged or something. The pack I bought came with 2.

[DesmondGhostRider]

I checked the diodes with a multimeter and they all check out as good. It must be something with the wiring. I'm going to follow all the wires and try to find some sort of short or something.

[fixkick]

ECU still doesn't have power.

I bought new relays that are the proper spec and installed them. I checked all the fuses under the dash and in the engine bay. Still no power. Battery was a little low from sitting with lights on so I threw a charger on it. No power to pins A12 or A13. I replaced diode.

Still no engine light or power to the pins to power it.

I took readings from the relays. I didnt think to write down the colors, but I wrote them out as 1, 2, 3, 4. 1- Top Left, 2 - Top Right, 3 - Bottom Left, 4 - Bottom Right. The top is indicated by the tap facing upward.
thats all fine, but where is the negative lead of the voltmeter, ?
the best place for meter black lead is battery post NEG. this method shows ALL errors. even body errors and blow body grounds)

Green - Pump (the pump only runs for 3 seconds each keyon and cranking (and sure running) not now.
Key On
1. Positive - 13.63v
2. Negative - 14.46v why is this negative?
3. Positive - 13.69v
4. Negative 14.14v and this?

Key Off (these are floating measurements and mean nothing)
1. Negative - 14.38v
2. Negative - 14.38v
3. Negative - 14,38v
4. Negative - 14.38v

White -[b] Main
Key On , i only need this data, but i cant be sure. here. ill guess, meter is grounded, black to body or battery neg.


1. Positive 13.89v meter red test lead, guess at black-red, FI fuse power.
2. Positive 14.10v my guess is 2 of these are power good , black-white, IG-coil fuse good. power good.
3. Positive 13.92v one of these first 3 , really is the blue wire. diode blown.
4. Negative 14.09v[/b] my guess is this is relay output blue-black ,and is floating voltage, the neg, reading is just noise due to node floating ,noise.
the relay is NOT ENERGIZED, and the blue pin is wrong, here.

Key Off [color=#FF0000] (means nothing the power is off and all wires float. and will read randomly)
1. Negative 14.38
2. Positive 14.36
3. Negative 14.38
4. Negative 14.32

I'm guessing its (huh?)
1. Constant
2. Switched
3. To Device
4. Ground

It looks like there might be some slight leaking on my C103 Capacitor. BAD I'm going to get that swapped out tomorrow.
Do both caps they both have zero life now. long since , end of life. when it dries out the ECU goes quite NUTS.

I might try soldering another diode in D102 (if the blue wire was not at 0.7vdc (near zero) above, then the Diode is blown. or the ECU is not grounded.
to make sure it wasnt just damaged or something. The pack I bought came with 2 great , they sell for 3 cents at mouser.com dirt cheap diodes..

we only need 2 tests now (meter black lead grounded good)
keyon
main, blue wire, (solid blue) ECU pin 10 (must be 0.7vdc. near zero) you already did this, but not color stated, but its wrong. this pin.
and then we check ECU ground, to be sure its not broken. (the meter lead must be at battery neg lug to make this reading accurate,. true ground)
the ECU pins B1 and 2 must be grounded, they must read less than, 0.5vdc. if not ground is busted, (more tests) BLACK-Blue is GROUND.

SIdekicks are infamous for bad grounds. i have bad ground list on my pages.

---

the ecu blows, anytime main blue wires is shorted to any power feed,
like getting wet in the rain sure, (naked)
the caps all fail 1 time. if they are marked rubycon, the are crap.
only 1 exception to this, one ECU i bought we NOS, new old stock and were good. all running ecu's all failed. all.
the leaked or were 1/2 dried out and low Farads.
or blown to bits, or splite, or vulcano'd , or blew there rubber seals. all of them.
if they are not black, then they are usually good. black is bad.
but these Nichicon's will outlast me...
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/nichicon.jpg

[DesmondGhostRider]

Mkay I'll be heading home in in a few hours and I'll check it all out.

Do you think its worth replacing all these caps before I put it all back together. Even if it does work it seems like the caps breaking is a very common problem.

I ran a jumper cable to the cab from the battery so I would have a solid ground to work with for the multimeter.

Thanks again for all the help I really appreciate it!