Driver window slop....

[zukitrek]

I had the same problem with my driver window and I ended up creating a little aluminum guide out of an old screen frame. Don't have pics but I need to do the passenger Ill try to take pics when I do it.

J

[fixkick]

not really,
just new guides
and the top outside water wiper ,is no longer made, by suzuki or aftermarket
but some inside parts may be sold
the inside of the guides, have felt, like material after long years of usage turns to zero, and slop.
pretty much all cars.
classic car builders even overhaul guides at huge expense or time/labor.

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i can post the suz, numbers
94 drivers.
4door (5) form factor.

[zukitrek]

You are right, the felt like material goes to zero after all these years. DOes this helps with the window?

J

[fixkick]

ok here they are.
front door left
PART 7
CALLED A run




AND IS SOLD

SEE BELOW , WHAT IS , AND WHAT IS NOT SOLD.
EASY


http://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/1995...mCallOut=2

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FOR SURE that is my guess, bad RUN.
id have to see it shake to condemn it. (says the guy on a bar stool>?)

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its not a problem the shaking,
just annoying, etc.
unless the window n falls down by self, seen that.

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they told me part 4 was discontinued long ago.
but found one using Suzuki private dealer network,.

maybe suzuki is making more parts now>>>/?? cant sell cars here, so sell parts. that is good news.

[zukitrek]

Wow $94 for that? No way. Too expensive for such a small part.

[fixkick]

yes, and you get to help $$$ , recover from their Chapter 11, via high parts prices.

yes, sick!

[cosmic_splatter]

For the left door on my 95 tracker, the crank mechanism would be backwards, but looks to be the same. The crank is actually forward of the bar that runs the window up and down. Perhaps a right side mechanism could be purchased for the left door? Maybe the switched the arrangement over time.

A couple of things when working on the doors. 1. There is a plastic cover that cannot be removed without compromising the seal to the door frame. I used some clear calk to get it to stick again, but the plastic gets stretched and does not go back perfectly. 2. you have to do all work on these doors through small openings in the door panel. Not too easy. But, I was able to get a can of undercoating inside to spray the bottom of the door. It wasn't in too bad of shape, but will not hurt to put some in there. 3. The guide rails on the sides are barely visible. It looked to be difficult if you needed to work on them. It appeared to have a plastic liner inside of them. I should have taken some pics.

John

ps. Don't forget, to take the handle off the door, run a rag in between the base of the crank and wiggle back and forth. It magically pulls the pin out so that you can slide the crank handle off the door. Neat trick from the FSM.

[zukitrek]

In my case removing the 3 bolts holding the handle bracket were a pain., but I managed. I still have to do my passenger side. I will post pics once I do it. BTW my car has the $94 plastic piece on both doors. My problems are the guided they are plastic a break away in time.

J

[fixkick]

i just remove that plastic film
then spray water proofing, on the inside of the door card. its not water poof.
keep in mind they made cars for 70 years, with non of that. and was not a problem but the drains need to be free.
if you have door speaker spray the cones with clear paint. bam water proof.
the film only stops the FOG inside door from starting mold on the cheap, hardboard in the door car, this is easy stop, no plastic film at all.

note the p/n for left and right, above. those parts are all different.

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3 bolts holding the handle bracket were a pain?

[zukitrek]

I'm sorry Fix, the bolts were the ones holding the vertical carrier. Had to wait until wd40 made its magic.

J