Distributor timing... help!

[Sylvanite]

I replaced the distributor o-ring on a 1993 16 valve 4 door sidekick, and now the engine won't start. I think I must have turned the shaft a little bit and gotten the gear a few teeth off. Is there an easy way to reposition the gear so the timing is right and the engine starts?

I looked at the distributor timing page on this site, it all looked pretty complicated; I don't know where I would even start on any of that stuff (this is my first serious car repair fyi). Would I risk damaging something if I just tried different gear positions until the timing is right?

[Nike]

You're probably much turned the distributor shaft when replacing the ring. It is necessary to find "top dead point" on the first cylinder, and in this position ditributer axle set up that finger is pointing to the first spark plug cable. (approximate). Once the engine is started, it is necessary to precisely tune the ignition using strobe lights.

[fixkick]

there are lots of ways to mess up the dizzy, thus the complications.
but if all you did was pull it, out , then it's only 2 things.
1: spark wires, pulled and not tagged, 1,3,4,2 ? (and not finding PO selected true cap #1 to begin , lost now)
2: and the gear is off. as you stated.

not only that , but you or PO could have timed it 4 ways. at the rotor. (the harness tension limits the choices) 1PM is factory way.
since its been cranked those locations were all lost. (it's ok we can put it to factory settings)

1 set engine crank pulley to TDC #1 firing. ( not #4) #1 fires when both valves are loose (lash loose) or the compression gauge shows max pressure.
2 Drop the dizzy so the rotor lands on #1 exactly and the slot in side base is near center. (13 ways (teeth) to get the gear right or wrong)
3 lay the wires down like this.
it will start.
4 now do the strobe light set, fine tuning of timing, with the freeze jumper inserted.

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for those reading , how to do o-rings (what to do before.... pulling Dizzy)

set engine to TDC first. true #1 firing, at 0 degree mark on crank pulley (the ,be the rotor points to #1 on a running engine) (4 ways possible)
remove Distributor cap , see where PO set it, where is the rotor. mark it and mark all wires, 1,3,4,2 per above photo, counter clock wise. rotation on 16v and CW on 8v.
pull the dizzy, do rings. etc.
put it back landing the rotor in the same spot, the gear has 13 teeth and are helical cut. (curved) it will take anticipation and re-insertion to get it right, BINGO. lock the base screw down.
put the wires back as you found them .
Start the engine, if it don't start use the strobe light to see why? is timing too far advanced ? say 25 deg. then set it to 5 deg. btdc or near 0.
set fine tuned timing, with the strobe light (automotive timing light) per EPA hood sticker (up under hood)

[Sylvanite]

So now understand what went wrong when I worked on the distributor, and how to do it the right way, but I still can't fix it. I turned the timing mark to zero, then turned the distributor rotor to spark cyl. 1 (that is I turned the rotor until it was right over the #1 cable connection, and yes this was including that it turns when you re-mesh the gears), for what it's worth, the wires are and were in factory position. This didn't start the engine, so I did the same thing, but set it to 4 (I didn't notice the blowing into the spark plug hole trick the first few times I read the procedure, this obviously would have saved a lot of time), but it still didn't start. I really don't know what the problem could be, it worked before.

[fixkick]

it is timed wrong. its so very easy to do wrong.
and finding True TDC #1 firing, tops the list. DO this first must, or all else is wasted.
(same with cam timing if wrong the spark timing is hopeless (at end chain it is) Cam timing is 1st first. LOL

this can be done lots of way. ( TDC happens 2 time, firing and exhaust, only firing is correct)
1- make lash loose on #1 is TDC 0, firing?
2- or max compression, at 0 degrees #1 (or the blow test)
DO take out all spark plugs, so the compression dont fight you, i see your other post...sorry.

way 3- is to set crank at TDC 0 the make sure the cam cog, MARK is 6pm, down. note, if the cam gear mark is at 12pm that is #4 firing, that is wrong.
then drop the dizzy, so the rotor aligns with your #1 spark wire. (repeat to anticipate spiral gear effect)
it will start , then set timing with the light.

id bet your cam cover is not off. so...
cam cover off way
valve cover off way
or if not, blow test games. (use compression tester gauge,or blow into the spark 1 hole (hose to lips), if cant blow that is FIRING.
ill not do the toilet paper trick, sorry.

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timing hell 101:
rotor on wrong.
dizzy bottom gear on backwards
crank pulley mark, 0 is NOT zero any more. (the rubber bond is/was broken and now slipped)
cam not timed.

[Sylvanite]

Thanks for all the help. It's running again. It wasn't working because when I tried to reset it at TDC it was one gear off.

[fixkick]

those 13 teeth are hard to get tight
good luck to you...