dead clutch?

[dynabill]

Hi All
been a while since I've been here, that is good news tho, no major problems till today. took son to college and it wouldn't shift, I had car towed back home, and started reading fix kick pages. miraculously, good ole Napa had a clutch cable in stock. i have new one staged in bell housing and at clutch pedal. when I took the old one off at bell housing there wasn't any threads sticking out of the Free Play Nut, and it was tight as hell removing Free Play Nut all the way out that it popped of once the tension was released. . Meaning not sticking out an 1/8" or so where i could get the threads started. the threads were actually way below the outer hole on the Free Play Nut, there was sludge on that end i had to clean out. http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mik...ge_23.html So after reading further I think I need to check the factory index marks on the throw out lever http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/rel...view1w.JPG and the clutch pedal and make sure they are lined up, also the 8-1/2" and 11-1/8 on the new clutch cable. In order to get the rubber part into its location i had to get a few turns on the Free Play Nut and use some serious leverage on the throw out lever, to get everything in its rightful place. So this makes me think that the PO may have not put things together correctly. So this is the path I am headed, though the car was making some weird clutch/maybe transmission noises cant remember exactly if clutch was in or out with it making the noises. maybe i can see tomorrow, though I think the clutch may be gone, because of neglect on my part. The old clutch cable is shiny and had good movement in it On both ends, and clutch pedal was smooth when depressing it. I will also recheck for damaged components inside car pedal assembly. So Here are my questions

Is there supposed to be some threads sticking out of the clutch lever, to get the Free Play Nut started, or did i do that right?

do I adjust the Free Play Nut to get the clutch pedal at desired position inside car? (after verifying that factory index point are lined up)

which clutch assembly is the right one from rock auto I think this one is wrong because of the VIN numbers LUK 04137, so that leaves me with the EXEDY 04137 and the EXEDY 04108. here is the link to the page http://www.rockauto.com/

Did I miss anything, haha?

Cheers, Bill

[fixkick]

23710-57BA0[old] (57B12 new #) is yours the rubber end cable, ?
the beauty of the rubber end cable is no adjustments needed. at that end. just the bottom free play.

those measurements are only for the ID of the cable, there are many cables and its so easy to buy the wrong one.. (just get all the pay out ,then set the free play)

there are 2 freeplay page options, one is at the bottom lever end, other at pedal. can be done at either end ,but he pedal end is very hard to do because of , friction . the bottom end can be much easier,,, to set.
the correct clutch is the 16v clutch, (larger disc) rock will mix them up, due to suzuki using same vin for 2 engines. code 0.
as for the clutch decide on brand first. then read the catalog for that brand and find the correct clutch.


if the bottom end moves 1inch with free play taken up then the cable works and clutch is bad. my so called 1 inch rule.

the bottom free play is about 1/8? the pedal play , 1 inch at pedal is about 1/8th below.

my 96 had the newer rubber mount on the end of cable, no screw/nuts./ like a 95 or older
first is making sure no damage on the pedal end. the cables can look shiny, but do in fact wear a groove inside the sheath that makes them stick
then when it sticks, and the driver pushes harder, and the weakest link fails.
that be the top pedal, spline strips or the pedal cracks or the fire wall cracks.
or all 3. ouch
ok not that.... good.(pretending)
then this end works. the bottom end will adjust.
if the bottom end don't adjust (rubber end cable) then the throw out bearing is destroyed.
1/8" free play on bottom, and 1 inch rule works, if not bad clutch.
good luck to you !

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as the disc wears, the free play decreases.
when it hits zero the release bearing runs full time(overload) and fails.
this is the common failure.
as is the cables sticking, where no man can see. inside. my guess?, mid span,,,damage unseen,

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see the other titty, "index marks " here
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mik...age_2.html

thanks to a poster for this very nice photo...

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one of the pedal welds, are only tack welded, not 100% , and that too fails.
the forces here are about human 100lbs x6 or x8. so 800lbs can be had at fire wall and then it cracks. for sure something will, with any bad cable.
(the pedal ratio is at least 6:1) as will be the 2 free plays.. 1/2 inch div by, 6 at bottom

[dynabill]

the correct clutch is the 16v clutch, (larger disc) rock will mix them up, due to suzuki using same vin for 2 engines. code 0.
as for the clutch decide on brand first. then read the catalog for that brand and find the correct clutch.

[color=#000000]where do i find the catalog for the brand I want, really I want the brand that you recommend,

the clutch cable has the rubber end ,
so the clutch is dead, what else would i need to order with the clutch kit, what else can be easily replaced once I have the tranny off, there was some mention on your pages of "flywheel pilot bearing" does this get replaced with clutch kit

which clutch would you recommend for the 96 tracker,

thanks in advance Cheers Bill

[fixkick]

so dead clutch is stuck, or slips? (wont crank in gear cuz car rolls?)
correct the 96s all have 16v with 8.5 disc, not the 8.
exedy, is ok. not to much, so LUK, SACHS, Bbeck.
yes, do get the pilot bearing in the fly... 4 parts, disk, pilot,PP, and throw out.

6 Puck Ceramic Disc , avoid this unless , digital clutch is fun, son has this, brutal...

if it is stuck, get all free play out of cable, get the end of cable to move 1inch
it the clutch is stuck , my guess is cracked pressure plate or collapsed throw out. (or disc soaked in oil , swollen)

cheers to you !

PS:
exedy page. bummer, the ecat uses different pn than rockauto.
i used this one at rock
SACHS K010703 (the 03 means fits newer 95hp engine G16b)
http://www.zf.com/na/content/en/united_s...alogs.html

ahh ,same clutch at SACHS as the 1.8L engine.. must be very HD to do that.

there are many good brands, i think the only bad ones are on ebay for $50-75, with no name or counterfeit.

ive also put the larger clutch in the 1991,8v, and works great.

[dynabill]

Hey Jerry thanks for the reply, ya cable travels one inch, wont go into gear without grinding, starts to move when cranked in gear. I ordered one from napa, guy there seems to think it is a luk. I cant wait a week to get the part, son needs it at school. so paying more then rock, is what it is. I will check what they bring tomorrow, but Napa is usually pretty good with parts, as you know.

Cheers, Bill

[dynabill]

Hey jerry tranny is out and the input shaft is worn bad, I will try and post a pic, but am on a different computer. so wht are the options, how bad will it be on car if we reinstall w/o better input shaft. we thought maybe JB weld and sand down. I can get used for 350 two hour round trip, they guarantee a good shaft. also two of the springs were blown out of the clutch disc, I wonder if that was from bad input shaft or clutch cable. cant get pics on here I will try later or your email. I sent pics to dangme email
cheers bill

[fixkick]

the splin is worn, or just the tip.
jb is hopeless here.

the "input shaft" can fail 2 ways, tip bad, or splines wrecked ,(notching real bad, causing disc to like to hang up.)

mine was wrecked too, on mine and my spare box.
i had to buy one from SUZ, need p/n?

here is new one./


cost me like $155 bucks too.

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24110-60a02


http://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/1996...eid=214820

ouch $283 (they need to pay for Chapter 11 lawyers, , sorry)

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OK just say your images, (we tied!)
that clutch just died, (too old, too much town driving or cheap brand? )
the splines are ok. it seems,,, but photos are small. wire brush them till pretty. use brake grease on spline and will last forever. very lightly.
the tip is worn. this is from a bad fly pilot bearing seized.
id just run it. straight. the bearing only spins as you shift. and if below is perfect, all will be ok.
does the shaft rocK? if yes, get new front tranny bearing.

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good luck to you !

[dynabill]

thanks jerry I was just about to run to get new tranny. we are going with it, old bearing was seized like you said. I sent new pics to your email, large this time, cheers thanks

[fixkick]

if the front of transmission bearing is ok, and you use a new pilot bearing and clean up that spline rust.
it should be ok. (if trans is good. make sure you can shift all gears , while its parked on the floor.) by hand.... turned , feeling it, (no crunchy)