Creating a new Headlight circuit

[swansen]

essentially i am looking to do this exactly, use the existing headlights/lamp socket but replace everything else. One of the leads has some odd resistance and on the the switches keeps killing the low beams, i just want to defeat the entire system.

however

i am not sure how to run the circuit and the ground for the lights would normally be through the switch itself, not on the actual bulb/socket/etc. so this is where my confusion comes from.

imagine this circuit here using the dual filament bulbs shown only instead of going to the existing harness, it would run my own leads for a switch and signal power.

[fixkick]

you adding fogs.or replacing the stock wiring,except the combo switch headlight .??

photo 3 is for other cars. on suz. , a hot active car. our is ground active(see photo 2 , see #7 i.d. and ground there).
it also has the flaw of one fuse blows, both lands dead,(dangerous)
want me to revise it.

[swansen]

want me to revise it.

yeah, that would be great.

after i posted this i realized how a ground switched circuit works and yes, pic #2 is a wiring diagram of the trackick, just here for reference and difference between power switched, as the other pics are.

[fixkick]

not sure goal;, fogs, or eliminate the Combo switch or?


keep 2 fuses in the path (red) to the new relays, so that if one path grounds out, the other still works.
preventing total blindness , driving at night, say on a moonless night, on a cliff road.

some of the older drawings are not so good (like #1 above). try this.
the relays only help the COMBO switch last longer. but with added cost and 2 more things to break.
Drawing 1:



i took the 91, and mixed to drawing into one , to form a unified, HL drawing. below
Drawing 2:

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these drawings are more clear, what do you think.?
note that both fuses are HOT all time. per USA laws. (safety)

the 96 drawings are in the fsm, off my books page. for same.

one advantage of hot head lamps is if the control side shorts, the head lights still work, fail safe, if on the other hand you run , hard grounded HL , then any control failure, results in at least 1 dead
headlight, or if you parallel that control , you get 2 dead headlights.
see?
the arrangement is not by accident.
one more improvement i saw an many cars made in the 50s was a thermal circuit breaker, that opens on over load, then resets automatically, this can get you out of a jam. with dead head lights. (they reset and dim head lights are better than non.)

[swansen]

yeah, thanks, i wanted to at least check my theory and make sure what i was thinking was correct.

Yep, bypass combo switch, it is faulty, create new circuit, has a short somewhere in the circuit/lead. From a previous project i have all the stuff laying around, relays, fuses, etc.

thanks.

[swansen]

i ended up doing the second picture minus 87a(normally closed) which i left open so the relay works as intended. weird example in that picture. always on light?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attac...1234907896

bbuut.. HI beams dont work. have an injury so mechanical work.. er any work is slowed or stopped right now. however. have a DTDP switch that is either faulty on one end or the one of the relays is shorted. have some parasitic draw killing a battery. have to track that down.

[swansen]

that diagram confuses me. sorry.

the link to the diagram i posted. i am using the ground switched circuit except i have two relays. one for Hi and one for LOW. unlike in the diagram linked, i am not using 87a, 87a is normally closed so its left open so that when the switch.. nvm. i'm making a drawing.... ...
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DONE!

   

the attached drawing is exactly what i did. but there is a fault somewhere. have to get the meter out and figure where power is leaking. Yes... i realize with a ground switched this is a little bit of overkill and the fact that switches are better now adays the relays aren't so necessary, but, again, i had all this stuff laying around.

[fixkick]

the predicate was to delete the whole system.
so that means there is no fuse box or harness. its gone. right? no origional any thing,
doses the mean the park circuits, inside and out side are now dead?
does that mean the combo switch is missing? yes/no?
does this mean the flash feature is dead and the blue lamp in the speedo will be dead ,after the modification??
ok, so why not just edit the orig. drawing, with new drawing. easy. will do. next......

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here is my wild guess, on what there and not... you never said !
now you have a full drawing.
but is combo still there, is park working
do you want flash to work (needs one more 1buck switch)
do you want the blue HI dash lamp to work.
note, how my design will not catch fire.

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the extra fuse
if you have no electric door looks. use that fuse slot.? its hot all the time, a mandatory feature for all HL.

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id use a CB for the new fuse they sell them in same form as ATC fuse.
cb = circuit breaker, i use them all the time. in my custom cars.

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bam, 2 relays and one drawing , for the whole car. (minus park paths)

do tell what features need to work, ? Flash, park, etc.

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please do ask questions.

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all wire 18 Gauge, minimum wire size. max run 10 feet. Lock box, stock car.

[fixkick]

if running non stock lamps, we'd need those facts to state wire size.
you can run 16 gauge to 24 amps. load. and 10 feet. adding fogs. adding high power light bars are all a different matter, and application.

[swansen]

   

sorry, diagram was inaccurate. this is literal diagram of headlight circuit. 20a fuses. 12ga for HI 16 for LOW

combo switch still intact running tails and side markers/turns.

using original headlight lamps with new circuit.

yes, this current diagram you posted makes much more sense to me, thank you




probably should post vehicle 95 16v 4wd 5spd