Crankshaft Cog good, but not tight - replace?

[fixkick]

here is what the sidekick loves, or vitara. 2drs are best

here is a J20 clutch in action. (silent and direct video)

http://www.fixkick.com/videos/AVI/kickin.mp4

[Mizamook]

Awesome! (no wonder I could not find Error 12 ... it wasn't on the list I was using)

The TPS adjustment is very confusing ... it's almost like "Well, it's running, I'll drive for a while, and if I don't like the feel, grab the 8mm wrench, tweak a little, and see what happens ... oops (lurch lurch) mebbe better shift it the other way ..!" kinda scenario.

I'll try again when I get out there today ... see if I can figure it out.

Then brake cable, oil change, and .... try to find the problem with the intermittent blower (could be switch, or just a connection)

After that the big problem is the horridly cracked windshield!

---

NICE!

here is what the sidekick loves, or vitara. 2drs are best

here is a J20 clutch in action. (silent and direct video)

http://www.fixkick.com/videos/AVI/kickin.mp4

[fixkick]

no problem!
the tps, is set to the idle switch just closes,
that is all there is to it, but the silly 16v put this (see photos below) in the way, I just remove the bracket

if the blower works on high always and not lower the blower resistor block is bad, behind the glove box, on the blower, box housing


TPS on the bench (a cake walk here)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/TPS/TPS-calibration.jpg

on car.
set the feeler to 0.026" .65mm
turn TPS, until idle switch. pins 1, (bottom) and #2 next higher, pin, is below 500 ohms.
its a carbon switch that never goes to 0 ohms like real switches.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/MPI-TSP1.jpg

now the hard part.
this bracket is in the way,

http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TB.jpg


the idle switch read infinity for most of its travel from WOT
down to hear idle, then suddenly drops below 1000ohm the lower, and 50 is lowest on most,
just get it hear 500, ohms,,, about,
i shoot from 300 to 500 ohm target here,
then lock down the TPS tiny side screws.

when the switch closes, idle controls on ONLINE, ISC comes on line, and holds hot idle a 800.

cheers to you and happy kicking, up there.!

[Mizamook]

What is idle at cold startup? Seems to want to be 1500 plus ... ouch.

Got Check Engine again after I forgot to plug TPS back in after adjustment ... that was funny.

Not sure if I needed 0.026" feeler gauge in there while adjusted .. didn't like result anyway.

Ebrake cable definitely cause of dragging brake - can't even pull old cable through sheath! ... replaced and adjusted ... will do other later ... shop so small I can only do stuff on one side!

Found rear differential breather tube was broken .. hope not too much grit got in there!

Blower fan definitely a connection .. at all speeds, a big THUMP on the housing made it work. Suspect brushes? or simple connection. Damn thing stays working once it's working ... I hate that.

[fixkick]

Hello,
very good,
TPS
the new engine,J18/20 engines , the TPs is set to .5vdc and is done. on much newer cars its fixed and ECU auto-calibrates,it at key every key on.,
not this buggy. its tedious.. this calibration...

This gap set, wrong. too small "tight" ,will cause the TPS idle to fail, for closed tests, and will show DTC error for that. (and idle controls go dead)
set too wide a gap, the TPS switch delays opening, as you use throttle and the ECU idle controls fight you, driving and causes a crazy hesitation.
The book on the car tells that over 500 ohms this switch fails.
the book shows using 3 feeler gauges.
Calibrate , is 0.026" switch just below 500 ohms. (if your hand is steady, this works and below is just going to work ) pin 1 and pin2 on TPS. 1 is bottom)
GO== 0.020" (below 500 for sure)
NOGO== 0.037" (shows infinity. on the resistance meter)
for metric, use times 25.4... (to mm sizes)

cheers and good luck

What is idle at cold startup? Seems to want to be 1500 plus ... ouch.

Got Check Engine again after I forgot to plug TPS back in after adjustment ... that was funny.

Not sure if I needed 0.026" feeler gauge in there while adjusted .. didn't like result anyway.

Ebrake cable definitely cause of dragging brake - can't even pull old cable through sheath! ... replaced and adjusted ... will do other later ... shop so small I can only do stuff on one side!

Found rear differential breather tube was broken .. hope not too much grit got in there!

Blower fan definitely a connection .. at all speeds, a big THUMP on the housing made it work. Suspect brushes? or simple connection. Damn thing stays working once it's working ... I hate that. (yes, wires, or the brushes)