Crankshaft Cog good, but not tight - replace?

[Mizamook]

HUGE thank you to FixKick, -- many many tabs open on my browser the last two weeks after we brought home a '93 4 door 16v we bought off Craigslist sight unseen ... (1st time ever done such a thing, but hey .. a $700 car you can DRIVE?)

A quick peek under the timing belt cover and I grounded the car.

Hot lug nuts after drive home from ferry indicate sticking right parking brake.

Clutch feels funny .. new cable already installed. Will test after engine going again.

Engine covered with year's worth of oil and crud. Crank seal way gone, cam seal pretty bad.

So, timing belt off, didn't read FixKick admonition to heat up crank cog rather than big lever, but wasn't TOO bad I hope (Wifey held big lever, I pulled on the other, POP) seemed fine, only messed up the ridges on the pulley a little ..... rem belt, then found I got the cog off too easily .. expecting to have to create the custom puller as pictured, but the cog basically came off with a nice pull.

Looks good though .. key is straight and tight, keyway is square and straight, cam nose shiny.

I can slip the cog back on. If I wiggle (rotation) it I'd guesstimate a degree of play in either direction.

Recommend absolutely replace cog before torquing to 94 ft lbs? Or will it last an easy winter so I can get the 'kick out of the garage before we get snowed in ... it's so easy to access why not plan to rem cover and check things out after winter passes ... to make sure the new seals are holding, etc, and can install new cog then?

Yes, timed to E, crank mark up, cyl. #4, made hose to breathe in, stopped breath (in fact as I was turning engine, it tried to inflate me) so feel good about timing. Not removing valve cover this time .. engine actually sounded great and ran fine, so after I fix the biggies, later I will finesse. TPS on the way, but not sure if it will work ... Error 44.

Other than that, and some rust and cosmetic stuff, it's a great car for $700.

Plus, the heater works ... which will be nice here in Southeast Alaska where we've been driving a '66 aircooled VW bus in winter with Toyota truck as backup .. heater didn't work in the pickup, and the VW .. well, it's aircooled ...

Thanks again for the huge informative writing and enjoyment!

[fixkick]

HUGE thank you to FixKick, -- many many tabs open on my browser the last two weeks after we brought home a '93 4 door 16v we bought off Craigslist sight unseen ... (1st time ever done such a thing, but hey .. a $700 car you can DRIVE?)
Your welcome and me too , $500 with blown engine, knew it going in i love craigs, for many things,

A quick peek under the timing belt cover and I grounded the car.

Hot lug nuts after drive home from ferry indicate sticking right parking brake.

Clutch feels funny .. new cable already installed. Will test after engine going again.

Engine covered with year's worth of oil and crud. Crank seal way gone, cam seal pretty bad.

So, timing belt off, didn't read FixKick admonition to heat up crank cog rather than big lever, but wasn't TOO bad I hope (Wifey held big lever, I pulled on the other, POP) seemed fine, only messed up the ridges on the pulley a little ..... rem belt, then found I got the cog off too easily .. expecting to have to create the custom puller as pictured, but the cog basically came off with a nice pull. (most do this old)
just not so hot as to melt the front main bearing BABBIT liners.

Looks good though .. key is straight and tight, keyway is square and straight, cam nose shiny. (what a joy to see that, many are not)

I can slip the cog back on. If I wiggle (rotation) it I'd guesstimate a degree of play in either direction. BAD, show photos)
there must be zero play, most cogs now are bad and cheap.
show or find where the play is?


Recommend absolutely replace cog before torquing to 94 ft lbs? Or will it last an easy winter so I can get the 'kick out of the garage before we get snowed in ... it's so easy to access why not plan to rem cover and check things out after winter passes ... to make sure the new seals are holding, etc, and can install new cog then?
yes, that is and issue, and the cog can take 2 weeks from the now lame SUZUKI parts sales. (deep warehousing)
It will run, and not get looser at 94fl/lbs , only getting TDC dead on matters, just before the full tight, the key useless after full tight.


Yes, timed to E, crank mark up, cyl. #4, made hose to breathe in, stopped breath (in fact as I was turning engine, it tried to inflate me) so feel good about timing. Not removing valve cover this time .. engine actually sounded great and ran fine, so after I fix the biggies, later I will finesse. TPS on the way, but not sure if it will work ... Error 44. (idle switch stuck open 5v, its calibration off)

Other than that, and some rust and cosmetic stuff, it's a great car for $700.

Plus, the heater works ... which will be nice here in Southeast Alaska where we've been driving a '66 aircooled VW bus in winter with Toyota truck as backup .. heater didn't work in the pickup, and the VW .. well, it's aircooled ...

Thanks again for the huge informative writing and enjoyment!

get a 195 thermostat for ALASKA. run it hot. (mail order to Alaska from rockauto)

192 is good too
here
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuk...Fchevrolet

[fixkick]

make sure back side of cog is not beat to death.. many are,. and will not hold. like that.

[fixkick]

here are the suzuki only parts list.

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/damage/index.html#Parts

cog./ lower
12631-53B00 16v only $31 (10 year old price)

[fixkick]

you wil be amazed at how well this car runs in 4wd on snow or ice.
if you get stuck, drag the brakes for poor mans LSD.
im sure know that trick but others may not...

the jeep I have now does that automatically, using ABS and this magic drag queen. it is virtual LSD , JK jeeps.

[Mizamook]

Thankee! I'm putting up a video to show the cog and play. You will undoubtedly not the fact it is not lined up (it was before I had the fight with the bolt) .. after I put the pulley back on I'll line it up and put the old timing belt on, torque the bolt to 94 with the car in 5th gear, then line things back up, and replace the belt with the new. The mark on the cog tooth is showing where 45 belt teeth line up with both crank and cam lined up. I'm a tooth counter, yes.

If you think things are dirty you shoulda seen them before. I'll do a final clean before install. I also showed removal of cog and backside (the gear, not mine, sorry)

https://youtu.be/OV1y8YM9rio (should be up in 15 minutes .. the webnet's slow today)

Going to run the new cam seal with the slightest of camshaft notch ... I had to look for it. After the winter I'll do an inspection and replace the seals and crank cog and bolt as necessary.

Noted about the thermostat. Will apprise after registering heat when car running. Already noted it's quite warm readily....and this Alaska is very temperate .. mostly wet snow and rain/snow coastal pattern, usually gets down to around 20, rarely as low as zero ...

Yes, I know that poor man's LSD trick .. I spent a lot of time in 2wd VW's in winter and snow/mud, etc (in fact it is a great winter car, except the heat problem) and it works sometimes .. also dependent on whether the rear brakes are adjusted properly ...

Another note: I saw that the coolant was pure, clean green. Good sign. Glad I removed rad for this job, but I see now I didn't have to. Did make things a lot easier though, especially cleaning all this oily CRUD.

[fixkick]

i see vid\
that is a runner !!!
you be ready for winter...

[Mizamook]

A vote of confidence like that goes a looong way!

Thanks much ...

Will report as "things" progress.

Cheers from Alaska.

[Mizamook]

It is alive! I think the engine sounds fine ... all the bits are buttoned up, and it runs at least as good as it did before I started.

Now on to things like ... details.

Messing with the new TPS now has error 12, but after reading I realize I can't set it up right without vacuum pump, so ... either I guess, or .. hey! I'll read the FixKick treatise on the subject and see if I can learn something ...

[fixkick]

great job, super.
12 is good, means no errors.
the TPS is a bit of pain, on all 16v , the stop point is blocked by metal mount brackers.
if the hand is steady , one feeler gauge will do the trick here.
the 16v has no dasy pot so no need to retract it , its not there on any 16v engine with the side draft Throttle body.