Code 51 ?!

[Beastcub]

1994 Sidekick JLX. 4 door, 4 wd, auto, 16V, Federal car (not california). Code 51 popped on, right after I filled. up with gas.. car sounded a tad funny too. Says EGR system faulire. usually on California cars.. ok.. Any ideas on what this could mean?

Doing some research.. the EGR is stamped K5T542 - which I see is a California emissions equipped EGR. Plus it has the EGT sensor. So maybe my hood was changed? Or maybe because the car was sent and spent most of its time in Washington state? Anyways, I need to figure this out, please help.

[fixkick]

1994 Sidekick JLX. 4 door, 4 wd, auto, 16V, Federal car (not california). Code 51 popped on, right after I filled. up with gas.. car sounded a tad funny too. Says EGR system faulire. usually on California cars.. ok.. Any ideas on what this could mean?

Doing some research.. the EGR is stamped K5T542 - which I see is a California emissions equipped EGR. Plus it has the EGT sensor. So maybe my hood was changed? Or maybe because the car was sent and spent most of its time in Washington state? Anyways, I need to figure this out, please help.

the cars hood clearly shows a FEDERAL Car, not CALIF,
the calif egr has 2 wire sensor that fits into a 2 wire, harness plug that only calif car with calif harness can fit. this sensor is just thermistor thermal probe.
the calif egr main works ok on FED car but not the reverses, in the CALIF EGR main valve in a FED car the 2 wires go NOWHERE (dangles)<<< not a problem that.
the Ecu is also a CALIF. or a FEDERAL ECU. (model number on top tell this. )

51 means the EGR system is failing, for vast reasons. (complex)
EGR test fail,  

IS the cards CAT missing TWC three way cat? (missing or rod'ed out, gut of it missing)
the first test it the index finger stall test. (and makes sure it does not stick open)

at idle push this ring plate below and engine drops to 400 RPM or stalls. this proves 2 things, valve is not stuck closed, and the EGR path (exhaust) is not fully clogged.
video ( this guy uses vacuum hand tool at vacuum nipple (not bark) and the valve opens and here it nearly stall. below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPO7B7yH43w






my gen2 EGR page his here, it s scary all the things that can fail here.
no missing cart,
not wrong ECU
the FED car uses vacuum tests (via map sensor vacuum DROP test ) to see if EGR works, if not code 51
the Calif car (and cal ECU) uses the egrt sensor on the side of above egr main to see it get super hot as EGR opens. if not 51 code.


the gen 2 page is here.

https://fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html

[fixkick]

that mitsubishi EGR , i can see the EGRT probe on the side there, just barely, but super hard to reach there.
do those 2 wires go someplace? (as in plug in)?
no where means fed hardness that has no place
if yes, that is calif harness in that car. as some are. 94 and most 95

cat missing?
egr MOD hoses not missing or routed wrong, per hood map.
post photo or rear side of intake, opposite side of TB throttle body (Passenger side, right side?) drivers seat perspective.
Cal EGR does work on any 16v engine, fed or cal.

here is hoping only the EGR main is bad, most this old at least stick open coming to a stop, from moving fast.
it closes at idle (commanded) and sticks open, they love to stick (carbon inside)

do you have pipe tube #50 on your car?

some last cars GEn2 are all calif cars and with new ECU,
this is because all cars went to CALIF 1996, USA.
so some cars, 94/95 the started doing updates to the system (transitional changes)

my ECU list shows the variances I know

https://fixkick.com/ECU/EPC-ECU96-98/all...9-95NA.pdf

if you have calif type ECU and the EGR wires are not connected you get code 53, (missing EGRT)


58B00 ecu. fed . may use calif EGR. they did have both, then.

[Beastcub]

The car is complete. An older gentleman drove it and cared for it. It is not butchered. SO yes the cat is there. The wire that goes on the EGR valve plus into a plug higher up, doesnt dangle. Tube #50 is not there. All vacuum lines are present and are in good shape and routed correctly.The only code that pops up is 51. Ill get pictures as soon as I can. Thanks for the help.

[Beastcub]

one more

[fixkick]

yes you have ECU that is EGR2 level or as we say Calif EGR2 was upgraded on your 1994, so is heat tested to pass test 51, egr. all looks go there.
the tests is simple when you cruise the car, the ecu knows the egr valve is open (some) and then reads the EGRT sensor for hot.(readings) just one test it does not do 2 like 1996up.
that 1 test passing means the valve did open(main) or if not passing valve is stuck closed or the exhaust path via it, is blocked.
if can push the ring EGR ring on the diaphragm and feel it move in 1/4" and the snap back finger off we know the valve is not jammed.
do that cold first, to do so and be sure the EGR main is not brick up, inside packed. as they love to do.

51 is the most common type of failure on this car, and lots of ways to fail. (exh paths, vacuum and electrics to VSV and modulator working too)


do the stall test by hand, or by hand vacuum pump more easy.
if it stalls (or 400rpm) we can then test VSV and Modulator next. to be sure that works, even clogged nipple that feeds vacuum the egr VSV can fail easy, the plenum is nasty there.
that nasty gunk there (is from PCV valve gas could and can clog the EGV VSV valve easy making it useless with gunk
but we test all that.
really the stall test is first, by finger or by hand vacuum pump. to the egr main nipple. that video above shows what happens, super low RPM and engine shacking very hard, at idle
test is on hot engine 800rpm , .

[Beastcub]

ok. Did the vacuum test on the car. It did nothing, no stall or change in idle. It held vacuum. Took the EGR off. Gasket was destroyed. The valve was covered and gunked up on the outside with oil. The had been a long time valve cover gasket leak. One of the bolts was also soaked in oil when I removed it. Completely cleaned the valve. Retested the vacuum. Pintel moves freely. Took a while to clear all the gunk. Inside was a bit carboned up but not bad. Removed as much as possible. looks good. The thermistor or thermoprobe. connected to it was also oiled up. Cleaned that off. Started cleaning where it bolts onto. Took pix. Looks decent not blocked. FOund the bark test and VSS test, will run those. I think I have an early 16V as I dont have the #50 tube. Got a wire to go very far in with no problem. I have not done the hot engine vacuum test. I ordered a new gasket. . Also the flying saucer thing above the EGR (I assume is the modulator) its tube was just shoved onto the curved hose. Not a great seal, and no clamp. (I also noticed one of the heater hoses was crimped so Im going to cut it and fix it)

[Beastcub]

Failed the bark test