CKP sensor

[mikedalcollo]

Alright I drove last night and have found fresh oil around that sensor, I had to get it up to 55. It was late so I was not able to dive into it. What I was able to see is there is no oil coming from under the timing cover area. Starting to lean towards pan seal. Will take sensor back off n check like you said.

Before I pulled the sensor initially I could wiggle it, thats what I meant when I said it was loose. I cleaned off before reinstalling yesterday. Its moist on the bottom of the sensor now after my 55mph drive last night.

The BOG: its not violent and does it on speeding up W.O.T. and up hills, not cruising when i get it up to speed. It kinda sounds like bad gas or something. I only use chevron gas in every vehicle and I don't drive until its warmed up so not sure if it does it cold. It doesn't feel like it loses power I will prob start a new thread for this after my leak issue is fixed, so its easy for other folks to find if they have the same issue.
Keep y'all posted

[fixkick]

not sure whats loose there.? the sensor has a clamp bolt, and if tight , nothing is loose save the connector or wires.
the sensor must be removed to find this leak

the lower seal point to the lower pump pan gasket is like 1 inch.
so we are talking a 1 inch place on the whole engine.
but you will find it, if the sensor is removed and put pocket and drive.
im sure

so its a real bog and does it WOT. a steady bog.
so is gas over 6months old?
chevron is good fuel. no lie there;. super good.
the bog can be many things. (ecu inputs tops list) lean fuel mix. (scanning this we see this easy, at B1S1 oxy sensor and long term fuel trim way off. 0.
MAF dirty, needs cleaning.
low fuel pressure, (FPR bad, as most are this old) easy to test with a fuel pressure gauge and pull off vac line see fuel drip there ,?? BAD FPR.

[mikedalcollo]

the bolt securing the sensor was loose, that's why it wiggled ORIGINALLY...
took the sensor off again today and it was pretty obvious....top of the sensor was clean because i had cleaned it before putting it back on yesterday, but the rim was wet with fresh oil....and looking in the hole with a flash light the rear side of the hole looked like it had no RTV there, like PO didn't put RTV all the way around the sensor hole. Just the outside of the pan. Wiped it down ran for a few and it started to get moist on the rear of that sensor hole. It didn't leak so bad yesterday because I had tighten it down better than PO, (I had slowed the siv status). So pretty sure its the pan seal.

Gas is less than a couple weeks old, I've had injectors out and tested and cleaned I have also replaced the FPR, have not tested fuel pressure as I don't have that gauge YET, prob go rent one in the week or so. I only have a basic reader and eraser, it does throw a lean code every now and again. I have fixed all vacuum leaks and tested with a vacuum gauge. I will change the air filter tonight and i have a spare MAF from a good looking clean junk yard (pik n pull) the only thing that looked wrong with it was rear main blown and just didn't want to fix. But that's just an assumption.
Thank you for all the advice n stickin with me on this

[fixkick]

ike PO didn't put RTV all the way around the sensor hole.

really the RTV is the total gasket, and must be perfect or it will leak badly. (in the factory the block was pressure tested, after the RTV cure.)

harboruz freight has the gauge for 20 bucks. with the free suzuki hose.
see last photo here.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html
connected up. to Harbor "FRIGHT" (sic)

"rear main blown? (seal?) i bet it not.
all suzukis leak valve cover gaskets, after 60k miles, the gasket and lash steps skipped (par for course) so it leaks,
then the distrib seals leak down the bell to the bell vent then to the back of block and down past rear seal, fooling everyone but me.... its not the seal I bet.
the suzuki main seal is one of the best setups of all, a real mount and full seal. (no funky split seals or other wild stuff like oil slingers... etc)

---

I would clean maf with CRC maf cleaner from 1foot distance, never close with powerful spray there, i soak it first , rest like 3min the hit it from afar.
the maf is $1000 at suzuki ,you are lucky to have spare, or $300 at cardone rebuilt.

any cracks in the INDUCTION system end to end, will (may) cause engine to go lean.
the engine does not run closed loop at WOT. so the MAF rules the roost accelerating and the O2 is off line. then.
so any air that sucks into the the engine, (un-metered) will cause lean, accelerating. worse at low speeds, and gentle accelerations
but fuel pressure is #1, the ecu ASSUMES its at spec, and cant measure it so injects blindly on this fact. (and the FPR raises pressure at WOT) so that must happen too.
i fuel pressure is good, at idle and wot.
then we work , unmetered air.
a dirty maf is also unmetered air, as the crud there causes it to read low. all the time.
at idle the 02 sensor is online and corrects this error. (hides it)

[mikedalcollo]

I took lots of parts off that guy....when I seen it there i remember asking myself why it was even there, no crash damage and looked very clean. Got underneath n it looked like a murder scene. I even took the dist cap n i dnt remember seeing any leaks on top, but its moot at this point, that was little over a year ago. But ya i knew how pricey the MAF is so i got that bad boy! as well as several sensors. Forgot what it was that I was there for. The only diff was it was automatic.
I have cleaned with crc MAF cleaner last year when i was fixing illegal air leaks after i bought it. PO didn't really do a good job with it, found several things on backwards most notable was the FUEL filter! It misfired due to bad plugs n wires and was timed backwards. I was told half the engine was replaced...couldnt get which half cause she didnt do the work, someone else had. 99% sure oil pan seal was replaced n 99% sure it was not done correctly. I did the full tune up with lash set right after i got it. I will look into that gauge.

[fixkick]

sounds good all that.
ok, pan off trick is here
thanks to a contributor.
less hours than an engine pull
but with engine out and upside down, it's a snap... that way.
i think the org. RTV was orange. out of cami plant. my best guess.

I took lots of parts off that guy....when I seen it there i remember asking myself why it was even there, no crash damage and looked very clean. Got underneath n it looked like a murder scene. I even took the dist cap n i dnt remember seeing any leaks on top, but its moot at this point, that was little over a year ago. But ya i knew how pricey the MAF is so i got that bad boy! as well as several sensors. Forgot what it was that I was there for. The only diff was it was automatic.
I have cleaned with crc MAF cleaner last year when i was fixing illegal air leaks after i bought it. PO didn't really do a good job with it, found several things on backwards most notable was the FUEL filter! It misfired due to bad plugs n wires and was timed backwards. I was told half the engine was replaced...couldnt get which half cause she didnt do the work, someone else had. 99% sure oil pan seal was replaced n 99% sure it was not done correctly. I did the full tune up with lash set right after i got it. I will look into that gauge.

[fixkick]

http://www.fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html

sorry missed the link

[mikedalcollo]

Is there a trick to breaking the seal on the oil pan? I have gotten to it and have all the bolts (n two nuts) off but can't seem to get the pan to come off... I've pried n taped and the pan itself started bending slightly so I stopped, can't imagine heat would do anything as it SHOULD be high temp RTV. Not a whole lot room under there for a hammer and putty knife which i did manage to get through on the driver side but no clearance anywhere else...specially rear with tranny in the way. I don't want to damage any of the surfaces...any ideas?

[fixkick]

the pan day 1 was RTV glued down, and is bonded. to the engine.
in the FSM they show using a wedge, and hammer.

go easy, its not designed to be removed easy, if fact, its bonded now. and should be leak free.
getting the pan back on and sealed , in car will not be easy, at all, and getting a perfect RTV bond. very hard.

i used this, and attacked only the RTV. bond. in the corner of pan is best, stronger.. on front.
http://thumbs4.picclick.com/d/l400/pict/...m-head.jpg


or remove the oil pump, but some have a stud there preventing that act.
stud going to pan.
if the pump was off, then hit pan with rubber hammer there and pop goes the weasel.

---

some times these 2 studs can be OFF'd with the double nut trick, (know that?)

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_17.html

you can see by this photo that leaks to CKP are near impossible, on any factory engine , unmolested. very very unlikely, stock,.... its all bonded and pressure tested day1.
see that huge area there, for RTV to bond. around CKP hole?
but if last owner removed the pump. pan in place, then my guess, its wrong. there.

most times it leaks in the corners , at pump. (bad installs)
this is not easy work, any of this,

but pan off , is best way, if it does leak and is not cam/crank seals.

[fredericktg1]

porn deleted, and nuked.