Camshaft Position Sensor Cap O-Ring 1.8

[Xoloski]

it's a 1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport 1.8 / Auto.

There is an oil leak at the back of the head. I am certain it is the Camshaft Position Sensor shaft o-ring seal.  I bought a new one with the Suzuki label for $10.
Marked and removed the housing.  The O-ring that is between the housing and the black plastic sensor cap was installed wrong, is crimped, and is swelled from leaking oil. This O-ring has an o-ring incorporated onto it for the sensor electrical connector.
I have searched high and low for this o-ring, a part number, or anything. Nor can I find the black plastic cap (not that I need one).
I find nothing, not even an online picture.
I am tempted (I typically would never do this) to cut the old o-ring to fit as best as possible, and fill the gap with RTV silicone.
Please tell me there is a source for this o-ring. And share the source.

[fixkick]

it's a 1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport 1.8 / Auto.

There is an oil leak at the back of the head. I am certain it is the Camshaft Position Sensor shaft o-ring seal.  I bought a new one with the Suzuki label for $10.
Marked and removed the housing.  The O-ring that is between the housing and the black plastic sensor cap was installed wrong, is crimped, and is swelled from leaking oil. This O-ring has an o-ring incorporated onto it for the sensor electrical connector.
I have searched high and low for this o-ring, a part number, or anything. Nor can I find the black plastic cap (not that I need one).
I find nothing, not even an online picture.
I am tempted (I typically would never do this) to cut the old o-ring to fit as best as possible, and fill the gap with RTV silicone.
Please tell me there is a source for this o-ring. And share the source.

welcome here.
J18 engine 98. (last one with all mods good)
leaks are never easy to find, unless start clean drive , look, drive ,look , bingo it is here. that is how leaks ROLLs) windage and gravity here are wild.
CMP leaks that is super tricky let me explain.
the CMP on some cars J18 and newer and bigger engines only can be timed with suzuki scan system.
(if the DLC does not have the timing freeze pin bingo this PAIN)
I always match mark the CMP flange to head so later I can put the timing back to where it was AS FOUND.  always do that. using a center punch is best.sharp
J18 engines in 1996-1998 (called Suzuki Sport)  are all on LF (left front) strut.(DLC location)
"test switch" suzuki name is time freeze for using timing light.
jump this:


Color wire for freeze is ,blue-red. seen here

suzuki does not sell parts inside ANY CMP. sensor. just base to head. rear.
there is deep Oring inside that loves to fail and the plastic cap ring is not for oil at all just dust, a dust seal of if oil is found inside the CMP that is the deep inside ring and only that needs to be found

you can buy o-rings as suzuki.
or measure them and by generic rings, metric for top sellers. (miked,(mic'd or micrometer measured) if not a wreck now.
see here for generic rings any size. (viton is best)

to do generic buy 3 sizes, 1 below ,1 at, and 1 oversized. and win, (suzuki does not sell the internal rings)
thickness first then ID.



now I will tell you all I know and have, here,  I will show the base oring Pn. real. first

I have real suzuki full parts lists here, (all markets ) illustrated, (rat holed away for 12 years)
suzuki only sells the whole sensor (means if not discontinued, it is not but is $400 sensor)  sensor+- Suzuki (3310077E20)
and the base o-ring for  Sensor
Ring: @# 33278-77e20

sold here (cALIF) LA. garden grove

https://www.suzukicarparts.com/oem-parts...3327877e20

[fixkick]

there is 1 post here long ago, decade. with someone hand fitting the deep inside 0-ring that likes to fail.
IDK where.

[Xoloski]

Thank you for the quick and informative reply.
Before removal, I did index the camshaft position sensor housing to the head for reassembly.
Now that I know that the dust cap o-ring us unavailable, I will proceed with the minimal RTV application.
I will also test timing with timing light, with wire jumpered and engine at operating temperature.

I will also replace the valve cover gasket, PCV grommet, valve & hose, and the valve cover to throttle body breather hose.
I'll install new spark plugs as well.

[Xoloski]

OK, so I very carefully cleaned everything, trimmed the o-ring, installed the cap, replaced the o-ring and assembled the crankshaft position sensor. It only goes on one way, the drive is offset and the sensor can only be installed one way.
I replaced the plugs, the old were gapped at .048, the new gapped to the recommended .028.
When I went to start the vehicle, it would fire, sputter and die. The mark is exactly aligned with the the way it was removed.
I moved the sensor housing a little in each direction with similar results.
I even tried return the old plugs and had the same results.
It ran great before. I find it difficult to believe that by simply removing the camshaft position sensor to replace the o-ring, that I caused the sensor to fail....

[Xoloski]

Thank you very much for the good information.

After sleeping on the situation, I pulled the camshaft position sensor yet again and this time removed the indexing disc. I found and removed a tiny spec of debris from the wheel no bigger than a 64th round. I cleaned the whole wheel with alcohol, reassembled and the sidekick started and ran perfectly. I will reinstall the new plugs and set timing.
I know and should have been more rational with this failure... ~ The Most likely cause of fault is what was most recently worked on.

Thanks Again.

[fixkick]

Thank you very much for the good information.

After sleeping on the situation, I pulled the camshaft position sensor yet again and this time removed the indexing disc. I found and removed a tiny spec of debris from the wheel no bigger than a 64th round. I cleaned the whole wheel with alcohol, reassembled and the sidekick started and ran perfectly. I will reinstall the new plugs and set timing.
I know and should have been more rational with this failure... ~ The Most likely cause of fault is what was most recently worked on.

Thanks Again.

way to go, looking close, found contam.
thanks for sharing you experiences.
stuff happens.  

same with newer sensor seen on crank or cam or in the transmission, the end gets full of mud only discover it is metal dust, and makes  the sensor fail or misfire.
always clean any failing sensor first. keep open mind, it may be still good.

good luck to you  and your J18