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A little wiring diagram help 2001 2.0L vitara....
#1
I tried to search but came up empty and was hoping someone happened to have a link for the engine wiring diagram... specifically the main and fuel pump relays. I have the diagram from Mitchell but it appears that the main relay isn’t wired correctly (drawn wrong) and I’d like to double check it..

So here is what I’m doing... I’m transplanting the zuk j20 into a rear engine rock buggy chassis. I’m making the factory engine harness stand alone.

Any help or links would be greatly appreciated.
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#2
all you told was J20 and hint of Vitara.
what is the year?
what is the donor body name just Vitara and if yes, USA< CANADA OR EUROPE WHERE WAS THE DONOR CAR SOLD. new. or the VIN, the VIN answers most this, no VIN.
YEAR MISSING IS WHAT IS WRONG HERE.

EFI is not the same in all models and years and country , not at all.

wild guess 1999–2002???
we are in USA and Suzuki is sold all over the world and not here now. (bug out usa)

J20 has 3 generations, as seen here, they are NOT the same.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Su...s#J_engine


my guess is
1999–2002 [Chevrolet Tracker[9][Suzuki Escudo]] aka Vitara, Sidekick

if yes you need drawing for the correct year, and correct country.
DONOR is?
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
(08-22-2019, 12:55 AM)fixkick Wrote: all you told was J20 and hint of Vitara.
what is the year?
what is the donor body name just Vitara and if yes, USA< CANADA OR EUROPE WHERE WAS THE DONOR CAR SOLD. new. or the VIN, the VIN answers most this, no VIN.
YEAR MISSING IS WHAT IS WRONG HERE.

EFI is not the same in all models and years and country , not at all.

Sorry... engine,pcm and harness came from a donor 2002 vitara. I am not going to use any of the factory fuse blocks or relays since the factory stuff is bulky. I will have relays and and fuses just not the OEM.

Vin- 2S3TA52C226110011

Door tag says MFD. CAMI-AUTOMOTIVE INC CANADA
DATE 05/02

Thanks for any and all help.
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#4
ok so you dont have 2002 Vitara manual>?

what didnt jibe, at mitchells. outside wires, wrong, or those pesky and many times, inside relay wiring shown wrong vast times by suzuki?

my wild guess INSIDE< right as you want to use no stock relays, so that be super good do know and suzuki does not make that easy,

here is classic case of wrong to make my point.
why not post your schematic you dont like?

the old 89 was wrong on main and I see tps wiring wrong on many other official schematics.

https://fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-90schem1.jpg


they did it all wrong. see my red jumper?

what Id do is make sure the coil ohms are not too low on custom relays,

https://fixkick.com/sensors/ohms.pdf


see those rules are good guide line for coil ohms MINIMUM or risk burning up transistors in the PCM
73main and 122 for FP relay.
120 ohms is 100mA. and many transistors are limit to that.
other outputs have bigger transistor, and can do 25ohms. 0.5amps max.
what your PCU can do is not documented. (other than the pages show above (wrong car example)

The outputs on old cars are not protected so you just take great care not to overload outputs OF THE pcM/ECU.

The relays are wired normally open , but i guess that is obvious.

you key on and MAIN closes.
this then sends power to fuel relay input. so if ECU is dead, the FP relay is double dead, by DESIGN and laws.
https://fixkick.com/sensors/ohms.pdf


our J18 1996 is wired like this. Logic

https://fixkick.com/ECU/18L/18LiterECU1.pdf


The pump uses 4 amps of current on ours.
so if you go wild and use 25amp relay or more the coil ohm can be way to low. and burn up the transistor that runs it.
i guess all relays here are rated at 15amps, max. and coils. some sold are 225 ohms, and good.
20amps 100ohms
30 amps 80ohms, this gives you an ideal how amp ratings,change the coil current/ohms.. my guess based on our car, is this is max current relay, here.

one last point
the drop out voltage must not be below 10v or 8v better, so when you crank a engine and the battery is weak, you still get fuel and spark
no 2 relays made do that same voltage, and is very important on cards, 8v to 15vdc range usage. (and cold weather caused)

case in point , mouser.com that shows full spec, unlike suzuki nor car stores

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-...xR4ff5g%3D

the drop out is 7.2v and good. 119 ohms too. (in the data sheet ,not brief page)
the COD version of this relay has the coil protect diode, in not buy relay lacking such a diode, as we do not know if you 2002 PCM has one inside, hidden and if missing the BACK EFM blows the transistor to hell and gone.,

if you guess at relays things blow up, for sure missing diode and for sure too low ohms on the coil boom bad PCM . here is a real data sheet. maker is TOP class maker TE Connectivity / P&B (they own potter-brumfield.)
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/N...844135.pdf
http://www.fixkick.com
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#5
many of our cars, use same exact relay for FP and MAIN.
our 98 does.
SPDT , COD WITH DIODE 30A Should do it.
http://www.fixkick.com
Reply
#6
now lets see better parts seller show, rockauto is pretty good.,
my guess at 30amps is bingo

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...95&jsn=883

as you can see on side relay the COIL has snubber, (a diode or MOV device) if not blow up PCM, from inductive coil kickback even over 100v possible (have proof, have scope to prove it)
the main relays same site shows spec as 20amp relay. but the 30amp fuel pump relay can work too.
custom wired, one can have 2 , relays here, SPDT, and one for pump wired to N.O pin out to pump. 2 relays same but wired correctly .

here is the maker of SMP relay. them.
https://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/STD/#/vehicles

used on vast cars and for even windows, relays, roll up/down. and more. lots more.

RY302. pump and main can be wired to this. x2 one each.
http://www.fixkick.com
Reply
#7
(08-22-2019, 01:41 AM)fixkick Wrote: ok so you dont have  2002 Vitara manual>?  

what didnt jibe, at mitchells.  outside wires, wrong, or those pesky and many times, inside relay wiring shown wrong vast times by suzuki?

my wild guess INSIDE< right as you want to use no stock relays, so  that be super good do know and suzuki does not make that easy,

here is classic case of wrong to make my point.
why not post your schematic you dont like?

the old 89 was wrong on main and I see tps wiring wrong on many other official schematics.

https://fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-90schem1.jpg


they did it all wrong. see my red jumper?

what Id do is make sure the coil ohms are not too low on custom relays,    

https://fixkick.com/sensors/ohms.pdf


see those rules are good guide line for coil ohms MINIMUM or risk burning up transistors in the PCM
73main and 122 for FP relay.
120 ohms is 100mA.  and many transistors are limit to that.
other outputs have bigger transistor, and can do 25ohms.  0.5amps max.
what your PCU can do is not documented.  (other than the pages show above (wrong car example)

The outputs on old cars are not protected so you just take great care not to overload outputs OF THE pcM/ECU.

The relays are wired normally open , but i guess that is obvious.

you key on and MAIN closes.
this then sends power to fuel relay input. so if ECU is dead, the FP relay is double dead, by DESIGN and laws.
https://fixkick.com/sensors/ohms.pdf


our J18 1996 is wired like this. Logic

https://fixkick.com/ECU/18L/18LiterECU1.pdf


The pump uses 4 amps of current on ours.
so if you go wild and use  25amp relay or more the coil ohm can be way to low. and burn up the transistor that runs it.
i guess all relays here are rated at 15amps, max.  and coils. some sold are 225 ohms, and good.
20amps 100ohms
30 amps 80ohms,    this gives you an ideal how amp ratings,change the coil current/ohms..    my guess based on our car, is this is max current relay, here.

one last point
the drop out voltage must not be below 10v or 8v  better, so when you crank a engine and the battery is weak, you still get fuel and spark
no 2 relays made do that same voltage, and is very important on cards, 8v to 15vdc range usage. (and cold weather caused)

case in point , mouser.com that shows full spec, unlike suzuki nor car stores

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-...xR4ff5g%3D

the drop out is 7.2v and good.  119 ohms too. (in the data sheet ,not brief page)
the COD version of this relay has the coil protect diode, in not buy relay lacking such a diode, as we do not know if you 2002 PCM has one inside, hidden and if missing the BACK EFM blows the transistor to hell and gone.,

if you guess at relays things blow up,  for  sure missing diode and for sure too low ohms on the coil  boom bad PCM . here is a real data sheet. maker is TOP class maker TE Connectivity / P&B (they own potter-brumfield.)
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/N...844135.pdf

With a ton of searching I found the diagram.... and as I suspected the Mitchell on demand diagram is incorrect.... here’s a link for anyone searching.... its the entire service manual 2002 vitara

http://www.mediafire.com/file/oddx0uesum...2.pdf/file
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