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98 Tracker Sluggish, misfire
#11
The 5 stored codes are all transmission related. (Auto Ecu, with 5 speed trans) only pending code is p0400 (egr). Vehicle seems to have lack of power in all situations. Misfire is worse around 2000 rpm. Gets better at higher rpm. No misfire above 3500 rpm

Sorry I re read your question, the vehicle misfires but no severely. I can feel it shake (pulse might be a better description)and the rpm drop 50-100 rpm then returns when it happens. Seems to be the worst around 2000 rpm. Above 3500 rpm no shake or rpm drop. (Driving or parked) When driving any condition the vehicle feels like its a tank driving down the road. Very poor performance under any load. (Flat/uphill)
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#12
Sorry my better obd2 sensor without live data says

P0743 stored
P0758 stored
P0753 stored
P0705 stored
P0720 stored
P0400 pending
P0705 pending
P0720 pending
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#13
Just checked compression. Its 170 across all 4. Warm and WOT, F1 fuse pulled.
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#14
compression is low. and equal are you sure the cam is timed correctly. 195 is normal warm. The 16v is 195 PSI. Seen in FSM chapter 6-6
it is a new crankshaft right? the front snout key is prefect now? not mangled as before, right?
using PCM(ECU) A/t on M/T car is and unknown deal, by me...
is the CAT present? still if , yes not melted inside? what else is missing I can not see??? grin.
other than that 170. is low
seem like this is spark bad. to me.

there are only 3 causes, (macro view)
bad engine, (lots of ways, valves bad or timed wrong)
spark is bad, regardless of new parts put in.
gross rich fuel mix (idle is perfect) but driving , the car it misfires.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#15
Crankshaft was polished, snout and keyway had no wear. (Not original crankshaft) This crankshaft was out of a 91. New timing cog gear, new key, new pulley, new bolt all oem parts. Cat is brand new. My timing cover is mangled, when I bought the vehicle the crank pulley was wobbling like crazy and all the belt were rubbing on the cover. So I ordered a new one, today ill get it all apart and confirm the timings good and replace the cover. Before I do that I'll perform a leak down test and see what that says. Is there a good way to test spark without a oscilloscope? Also last night when I drove to grocery store it seemed that I was getting pinging above 60 km/h. (Sounded like rocks in the exhaust manifold side)
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#16
it sure can ping on cheap low octane fuel and a dead EGR, for sure. all you can do is:
fix EGR (needs a working CAT. (not catalyst wise), but back-pressure wise it must be there for EGR modulator to work)
better fuel.
but ping is lean caused too, and if that lean the car will bog, not misfire but lost power, bog. lean burn causes huge power loss.
also Ping wrecks pistons. (a.k.a Detonation and KNOCK )
also see one car the G16 head was milled 5 times and CR is huge and can not stop ping, poor guy in Venezuela ( no spare part get him here) not you compression is low. for sealevel are you? if not tell altitude. (matters over 500ft)
or retard spark a degree or 2. to stop ping as we did in Venezuela guy, adds 2 tests adds to more retarded.

there is no way to test spark driving and that is when things bad happen. (or I can with battery scope and hood of car removed, yah done it)
keep in mind cheap carbon-core spark wires flexed or shake hard, can happen driving only and fail but I bet not here.

that is why OBD2 P0-300 to P0304 was invented for OBD2, MISFIRE> try misfire means ,one or more cylinders went dead for spark of injection failures.
98 tracker is OBD2 car (96+ USA) and reports misfire if you monitor pending driving and for sure misfiring.
if no P030x codes pop that mean it is not misfiring enough to lose power, makes sense no?

it mean the EFI is grossly lean., even simple injectors partially clogged....
did this car ever have bad fuel, if yes the injectors are now suspected , for sure all signs of lean. or MAF is near dead.

key evidence possible and or common, for lean burn.

1: no power, or 1/2 or weak power on hills and WOT weak power.
2: lean burn , pinging (yes), all engines ping if too lean and EGR dead. and EGR is dead P0400 proves that. rich engine can not ping !
3: no P030x codes ever (dome fuse NOT MISSING OR BLOWN) and looking at pending's driving , no P03xx codes at all and engine bogs the engine is lean.
bog is not misfire, it is gross lean burn power loss, also ping = power loss too, gross.. lean + ping = double power loss!!!!!
4: spark tips are white not black so is one clue of lean burn or normal , for sure not rich black top flooding crazy rich.
5: maf weak output, is lean burn. easy to test. and clean to fix.
6: is the CKP crank sensor missing?,. no 91 car has a CKP so did that go missing to the harness just below front crank pulley? but it would do DTC P03xx code.

7: best if all true above is diagnose power loss and not misfire, bogging means like you walking in bog swap in hip boots and can not chase a moose. bogging or gross loss of power, and pinging. (as in the phrase I'm bogged down at work) on engine it is lean burn. lean burn causes huge power loss. and worse PING.

Do you have the cat, i can not see cars engine and things missing?

I do not think wrong ECU is it, but here are some facts in the FSM book.
why? well failsafe limphome , causes rich burn and no idle controls and super rich burning, and retarded spark. (spark tips go black , cat glows red hot)



we only know so far wrong ECU in car. AT in MT car, and this.
FSMSadfactory service manual on failsafe pages)
the 97 book shows this. (my tracker was all 97 MT end to end ) and never went lean or to falesafe.
My 96 came to me new to me dead EGR and was main seized.
FAILSAFE LIMPHOME causes in FSM BOOK quote.

MAF = P0102/103
IAT = P0112/113
ECT = P0117/118
TPS = P112/123
VSS1 = P0500 ( speedo vss) Vehicle Speed sensor = VSS ( a crude backup sensor speed)
TR = P0705 (A/T Range shifter output in conflict)
VSS2 = P0720 ( 4sp Vss tail speed sensor dead) if this is the primary VSS sensor the PCM can bet real pissed off with this now missing.
SS#1 = P0753 (shift solenoid 1 bad)
SS#2 = P0758 (shift solenoid 2 bad)
TCC = P0743 (torque converter clutch malf)

,more lots more lean has many cause let me list those simply(more simple)
1: low fuel pressure < NO! FPR fixed so skipped in this list.
2: injectors clogged. can be. for sure bad fuel. (see many folks do every test in the book engine ,EFI and all, just to learn injectors had bad gas and bingo. fail.
3: dirty or bad MAF . if not...
4: or simply those pipes from MAF to intake leaking air all of that there, must not suck air , or lean it goes . ping + bog.

even injector cushions can leak air (bottom of injector to man) (vacuum leaks suck air and must not)
all gaskets there and every single air hose not leaking or sucking air, that means all and PCV hoses too must not be bad or cracked.
The engine must suck every drop of air from the MAF or all bets off.
This MAF Air meter most not lie for both reasons, maf not dirty and not one induction pipe of any kind leaking air. (sucking) all boots there too. ALL.
even main huge pipe mounts broken off the huge alum. induction pipe and sucking huge air like one i fixed.
this is no different from millions toyota's made with MAF sensors.

best clue so far is PING,
speaks loud to me,. mean engine is LEAN burn.

on turbo engines if the go lean under boost the engine explodes, (piston ,rods and crank gone)
the run them rich under boost to prevent ping detonation
on this car when you tip in the throttle with right toe the TPS signals this and AFR goes 12:1 not 14.7: 1, and max power mode and no ping rich.
yours is lean. only why remains.


ok one last trick ,unplug the maf see if engine makes lots of power
this is limphome mode. (and MAF DTC hard set for 0volts out)
if yes maf bad or air leaks in the induction
if not that, injectors are clogged (like 1/2 way)
http://www.fixkick.com
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#17
Once again thanks for the very detailed response.

Yes the Cat is installed. I unplugged the MAF, the misfire started at 1000 rpm and stopped at 2000 rpm. Exhaust also started to smoke and stink a lot. So unplugging it did change what rpm range its happening. This test is not driving just increasing rev in neutral. The injectors havent been cleaned so Ill get that done. Ive checked for vacuum leaks using propane and a hose and cant find any. Heres a link to a pic of the spark plugs, this was taken about 50 kms after installation https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjaBLUXrc8Nfjj84wefv4jZUcZva
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#18
Results from cyl leak down

Cyl 1 4% loss
Cyl 2 4% loss
Cyl 3 5% loss
Cyl 4 4% loss

Yes I am 30 ft above sea-level. Confirmed timing is still correct (crank + cam)

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjaBLUXrc8NfjkDBICmuW379jn7H

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjaBLUXrc8NfjkFukVc0Q19MnfIy
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#19
i think your engine (EFI system) goes lean driving,
and bogs
not really misfire, violent.
just lean burn loss of power.

the maf test failed, sounds like clogged injector to me from previous bad fuel. (maf test hides the clogged injectors a bet, and power can go upward)
cam timing is good. as is belt. good leakdown, so the were is normal and equal.

Exhaust also started to smoke and stink a lot (with or with out maf or both)? but no maf puts the ecu in limp mode and that sure is very rich running.

The hard part is not knowing if spark is really good or bad. (sure is at idle as it was in closed loop) but spark has to be powerful under engine loads above parked and idle.

ever look inside ECU see if those pesky caps leaked out acid? (green slime) if that happens , diagnosis is impossible. with wild symptoms.


injectors
spark coil bad.
ecu bad caps , but more rare in 1998, older version love to fail, for caps but not sure 98, now.
if they look black casing on huge cyclinder shaped caps and marked RUBIcon, they are known to fail, not blue or red or green caps just black. (or if already recapped good) not bulging not cracked or tiny valcano's on side, nor bottom rubber plug on cap not bulging down,are bad or the green slime below cap leaking (looks odd)
http://www.fixkick.com
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#20
Only smoked alot with the MAF unplugged. I've almost got the intake off. (Going to clean injectors and egr system) i did find on the egr modulator I put the vacuum hoses on backwards. They're labeled with a P and Q.(the top hoses). After that going to repair the exhaust manifold since its cracked. Then clean MAF.

Hopefully tomorrow ill have time to check the ecu. I dont know the history of it.

Is there a way to replace the coil on the 98? Or do I have to buy a whole new distributor? Also I still haven't found out why my distributor cap is almost maxed out of adjustment.

Got the intake out and also noticed this, it connects to the tail end of the dist housing.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjaBLUXrc8NfjkLEKILWmvJuUpB3
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjaBLUXrc8NfjkM6J0q38NL2-2xy

Also, what should the pattern be for the fuel injectors? when I tested the one it was 2 streams (like a V) I assumed this was correct because of the 2 intake valves? I have a 12v pulse generator coming tomorrow or the next day, what kind of fluid would you recommend to run through them? and at what pressure? 30 psi?
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