98 JS Sport - Some challenges

[StoneAge]

Nope.. Still doing the intermittent thing. Checked the ignition wire to the solenoid and it does NOT have power when the key is switched tot he "start" position. Have been looking for the schematics to find where that little yellow (blue tracer) wire ends up... And why it's not powering up. Had the wheel cover off and checked the voltages on the ign switch and they seem ok.

Wouldn't be the fuel pump getting nasty on me, would it?

How about the distributor? was going to check that today but ran out of light.

Hope it works for another trip to 'griga.. I'll be back :-)

Thanks for the help so far.

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Something else I want to add is that the headlights do seem to be dimmer than they should. And I have noticed that there should be more power going up hills. I have had to get down to 2'nd on some of them here (highway speeds 40 mph+) 4'th maybe 3'rd, but 2'nd shouldn't be. Not a really steep hill, but "better than your average bear" hill.

This was noticed before any of the "stuff" started to happen. This "stuff" started to happen after I changed the clutch. I have looked and looked but cannot see any wires not connected to where they ought to be....

Cheers.

[fixkick]

Nope.. Still doing the intermittent thing.
Checked the ignition wire to the solenoid (starter sol?) and it does NOT have power when the key is switched to the "start" position.
IT does NO CRANK (start ign position)? (if yes, the clutch switch is bad)

Have been looking for the schematics to find where that little yellow (blue tracer) wire ends up...yell-blue
(this ECU diagnostic pin)or ECU pin E33-5 Camshaft sensor 2, if you drive or run engine, any connected scan tool will (OBD2) will throw CMP fails. DTCs



And why it's not powering up. the cmp power wire is blue solid not with yellow and black is ground.
Had the wheel cover off and checked the voltages on the ign switch and they seem ok.

Wouldn't be the fuel pump getting nasty on me, would it? (bogging?)
(power loss is MAF or fuel pump pressure low) (your 1.8 has new head and full compression)

How about the distributor? was going to check that today but ran out of light. (if you feel misfire, id look here too)

Hope it works for another trip to 'griga.. I'll be back :-)

Thanks for the help so far.

---

Something else I want to add is that the headlights do seem to be dimmer than they should. ??? check voltage to lamps.
And I have noticed that there should be more power going up hills.

I have had to get down to 2'nd on some of them here (highway speeds 40 mph+) 4'th maybe 3'rd, but 2'nd shouldn't be.
Not a really steep hill, but "better than your average bear" hill. Bogging. not getting full HP.

This was noticed before any of the "stuff" started to happen.
This "stuff" started to happen after I changed the clutch.
I have looked and looked but cannot see any wires not connected to where they ought to be....

Cheers.

bogging, would be a weak MAF (or air (vacuum) leans or low fuel pressure.
misfire, would be spark.
leaking or clogged injectors are all possibles, but it dont think yours is this, if your running fuel every day, they clean with good fuel.. but not intermittent.


id want a scan tool for this car, so you can see the sensors live and DTCs live.
when it bogs, the scan tool will tell what is wrong, if not? , fuel pressure is low.

ill send you the ECU schematics real.

see pm

[StoneAge]

Ok - Different issue now.. (last one still not solved, but this is pressing as well -

The plastic busing bushing beneath the tranny and transfer case shifter... Need them both. Got a part number or URL? Don't see them at Rock or Autowarehouse or Amazon.

Also - how much of a hassle is it to switch from electric windows to manual? The dust here has wreaked havoc and I now only have 1 & 1/2 windows that still work. ALL switches are going south on me.

[fixkick]

yes, most OEM parts are not sold in generic stores.
98 sport
yes i do have all p/n/ real. getting them now, the url is on my hard to find page ,see link below.
transfer case? issues?
online, is now here. sw suzuki is now off line for parts searches.

http://www.suzukicarparts.com/partlocato...eid=214820


the sport uses the same part numbers for the shifter plastics. as non sport


http://www.fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#5sp-shift


the 5sp shifter plastic Ring ID 19 , is 28117-60A00 $3.98 The 4wd shift lever uses a simular seat but the P/N is 29535-60A00 $5

The 5sp shifter tip or BUSH, plastic ID 27, is 25551-60A02 $4 < (very critical to clean and crisp shifting!) The 4wd lever does not use a bush.