98 JS Sport - Some challenges

[StoneAge]

Good day. I became the proud owner of a 1998 Suzuki JS Sport with the 1.8l VIN JS3TD21V9W4103315
I believe it is a US model as the speedometer is in MPH and small KPH. Not necessarily so from what I am learning about this apparently quite rare vehicle.

I have the integrated ball joint lower control arm if that solidifies the animal in question. :-) These need replacing - anyone know a part number - so I can be sure I have the right ones sent? I am in the middle souther Belize with the closest "town" 40 minutes away so getting the wrong part can be more than just a PITA!

I just finished replacing the clutch on it - Oh - 4x4 5 speed - and am now noticing it running rough and missing on steady rpm under load. Treat it like a race car and it performs fine... As much fun as that is - it's got 150,000 miles on it and I don't think she'll take that for long. Did put a new cylinder head about 5,000 miles ago and a complete refit is the plan.

I had to drill out a broken bolt on the catalytic converter and when it went back together the gasket was, well, I guess partly there. Parts are hard to get here. I am wondering if it's the up or down O2 sensor that would be causing this. I could see it being the down run sensor but the up one? Now - I also discovered that my cast exhaust header has a hairline crack between 3/4 cylinder. That can be welded right? Now - Is my next part to order an O2 sensor?

Next question - What if I just got rid of the Catalytic converter? How would that affect my performance, mileage etc.. There's no real need for it down here. Or any law that says I have to have - well, any of this crap... can I just remove it? Is there an ECU that I can get - or a chip that would fool it into thinking everything is cool?

4x4 is a must here - only 4 paved roads and the rest - you can bathe in the potholes and mud pits. Was heading to a friends house about 2 weeks ago and after about a mile of up to the door sill mud puddle (the gooey red clay mud) she stopped going forward.. Spun the tires just a little bit. Shrugged my shoulders, put 'er into 4 wheel high lock and crawled the rest of the way there.

I LOVE my Suzuki. And with finding out how rare this particular model is.. Makes me want to just keep going with the re-build. has a new cyl head, complete new front end (except Ball Joints - need. Year old Pirelli scorpions, and all those great save us from the mud stories... So any help getting her to run better is greatly appreciated. Body lift would be good too, but one thing at a time...


Thanks for any help.
Captain John
S/V Stone Age
Belize.

[fixkick]

Good day. I became the proud owner of a 1998 Suzuki JS Sport with the 1.8l VIN JS3TD21V9W4103xxx
I believe it is a US model as the speedometer is in MPH and small KPH. Not necessarily so from what I am learning about this apparently quite rare vehicle.
rare but the 2.0engine parts fit yours, mostly. I can match them up, with p/n.

I have the integrated ball joint lower control arm if that solidifies the animal in question. :-) These need replacing - anyone know a part number - so I can be sure I have the right ones sent? I am in the middle souther Belize with the closest "town" 40 minutes away so getting the wrong part can be more than just a PITA! it is , and make sure they know its the integrated "A" arms for wide chassis Sport no sep. balls.
i wonder if rockauto.com can send to down there...???

I just finished replacing the clutch on it - Oh - 4x4 5 speed - and am now noticing it running rough and missing on steady rpm under load.
Treat it like a race car and it performs fine... 10w-40 and it's tuff enough there..
As much fun as that is - it's got 150,000 miles on it and I don't think she'll take that for long.
Did put a new cylinder head about 5,000 miles ago and a complete refit is the plan.

I had to drill out a broken bolt on the catalytic converter and when it went back together the gasket was, well, I guess partly there.
Parts are hard to get here.
I am wondering if it's the up or down O2 sensor that would be causing this. The down steam is useless there, in Belize.(P042x codes, ignore them)
in this PCM if the upstream fails it shuts down the down stream CAT monitor, seen it.
the up stream run the AFR, and needs to be air leak free.
The CAT is not needed. and P042x, happens ignore that


I could see it being, the down run sensor but the up one? the Upstream (top) sensor runs closed with for 14.7:1 AFR. air fuel ration, cruising.
THE maf runs fast right foot and WOT not in closed loop, the down stream only is for the cat monitor.

Now - I also discovered that my cast exhaust header has a hairline crack between 3/4 cylinder.
That can be welded right? Now - Is my next part to order an O2 sensor? just the top one, they can weld it , when red hot. pro's can.
sometimes the crack is so tight it dont leak hot....

Next question - What if I just got rid of the Catalytic converter? How would that affect my performance, mileage etc..
The MAF system excels at adjusting to no CAT, the engine breaths more and the MAF measure the newer mass air flow and reports it dead on,
if cleaned, keep the maf clean (hidden in Throttle body side) no direct hard force of spray, back a ways,

There's no real need for it down here. Or any law that says I have to have - well, any of this crap... can I just remove it? SURE. Is there an ECU that I can get - or a chip that would fool it into thinking everything is cool?
no need, at all just scan it , and ignore, P042x codes, let the CEL glow all day... but id get close loop working. with the top 02 sensors , i would
it will use less fuel and run like a little Tasmanian devil.

4x4 is a must here - only 4 paved roads and the rest - you can bathe in the potholes and mud pits. Was heading to a friends house about 2 weeks ago and after about a mile of up to the door sill mud puddle (the gooey red clay mud) she stopped going forward.. Spun the tires just a little bit. Shrugged my shoulders, put 'er into 4 wheel high lock and crawled the rest of the way there. (DRAG the brakes, and get free poor mans LSD, draging brakes puts toqure to all 4 wheels at 1 time, light drag, practice, and have FUN ?!)

I LOVE my Suzuki. And with finding out how rare this particular model is.. Makes me want to just keep going with the re-build. has a new cyl head, complete new front end (except Ball Joints - need.
Year old Pirelli scorpions, and all those great save us from the mud stories...
So any help getting her to run better is greatly appreciated. Body lift would be good too, but one thing at a time...


Thanks for any help.
Captain John
S/V Stone Age
Belize.

A arms with balls (shows top makers of them)
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...type=10401

my one point eight page. more odds and ends.

http://www.fixkick.com/one-point-eight.html


great to here from you in Belize,,,,, i fool around in Peru, every year. (beach) im retired too.

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Good day. I became the proud owner of a 1998 Suzuki JS Sport with the 1.8l VIN JS3TD21V9W4103xxx
I believe it is a US model as the speedometer is in MPH and small KPH. Not necessarily so from what I am learning about this apparently quite rare vehicle.
rare but the 2.0engine parts fit yours, mostly. I can match them up, with p/n.

I have the integrated ball joint lower control arm if that solidifies the animal in question. :-) These need replacing - anyone know a part number - so I can be sure I have the right ones sent? I am in the middle souther Belize with the closest "town" 40 minutes away so getting the wrong part can be more than just a PITA! it is , and make sure they know its the integrated "A" arms for wide chassis Sport no sep. balls.
i wonder if rockauto.com can send to down there...???

I just finished replacing the clutch on it - Oh - 4x4 5 speed - and am now noticing it running rough and missing on steady rpm under load.
Treat it like a race car and it performs fine... 10w-40 and it's tuff enough there..
As much fun as that is - it's got 150,000 miles on it and I don't think she'll take that for long.
Did put a new cylinder head about 5,000 miles ago and a complete refit is the plan.

I had to drill out a broken bolt on the catalytic converter and when it went back together the gasket was, well, I guess partly there.
Parts are hard to get here.
I am wondering if it's the up or down O2 sensor that would be causing this. The down steam is useless there, in Belize.(P042x codes, ignore them)
in this PCM if the upstream fails it shuts down the down stream CAT monitor, seen it.
the up stream run the AFR, and needs to be air leak free.
The CAT is not needed. and P042x, happens ignore that


I could see it being, the down run sensor but the up one? the Upstream (top) sensor runs closed with for 14.7:1 AFR. air fuel ration, cruising.
THE maf runs fast right foot and WOT not in closed loop, the down stream only is for the cat monitor.

Now - I also discovered that my cast exhaust header has a hairline crack between 3/4 cylinder.
That can be welded right? Now - Is my next part to order an O2 sensor? just the top one, they can weld it , when red hot. pro's can.
sometimes the crack is so tight it dont leak hot....

Next question - What if I just got rid of the Catalytic converter? How would that affect my performance, mileage etc..
The MAF system excels at adjusting to no CAT, the engine breaths more and the MAF measure the newer mass air flow and reports it dead on,
if cleaned, keep the maf clean (hidden in Throttle body side) no direct hard force of spray, back a ways,

There's no real need for it down here. Or any law that says I have to have - well, any of this crap... can I just remove it? SURE. Is there an ECU that I can get - or a chip that would fool it into thinking everything is cool?
no need, at all just scan it , and ignore, P042x codes, let the CEL glow all day... but id get close loop working. with the top 02 sensors , i would
it will use less fuel and run like a little Tasmanian devil.

4x4 is a must here - only 4 paved roads and the rest - you can bathe in the potholes and mud pits. Was heading to a friends house about 2 weeks ago and after about a mile of up to the door sill mud puddle (the gooey red clay mud) she stopped going forward.. Spun the tires just a little bit. Shrugged my shoulders, put 'er into 4 wheel high lock and crawled the rest of the way there. (DRAG the brakes, and get free poor mans LSD, draging brakes puts toqure to all 4 wheels at 1 time, light drag, practice, and have FUN ?!)

I LOVE my Suzuki. And with finding out how rare this particular model is.. Makes me want to just keep going with the re-build. has a new cyl head, complete new front end (except Ball Joints - need.
Year old Pirelli scorpions, and all those great save us from the mud stories...
So any help getting her to run better is greatly appreciated. Body lift would be good too, but one thing at a time...


Thanks for any help.
Captain John
S/V Stone Age
Belize.

A arms with balls (shows top makers of them)
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...type=10401

my one point eight page. more odds and ends.

http://www.fixkick.com/one-point-eight.html


great to here from you in Belize,,,,, i fool around in Peru, every year. (beach) im retired too.

ps.
If you'd get EGR P400, id fix that, clean the EGR, it keeps the Exhaust valve much cooler. (lasts)

---

think of your car as and early , 1999 Grand Vitara.
an early preview..... of one.

[StoneAge]

Thanks for the reply - I do have a whole list of parts in my shopping cart at Rock Auto.. \they can get them to our forwarder in Miami and that's good enough.. Just the wait is all. Thanks for the tip.

I just finished replacing the clutch on it - Oh - 4x4 5 speed - and am now noticing it running rough and missing on steady rpm under load. i.e. it sputters if I keep it at 3,000 rpm and also when I try and accelerate.
Treat it like a race car (WOT) and it performs fine...
As much fun as that is - it's got 150,000 miles on it and I don't think she'll take that for long.
Did put a new cylinder head about 5,000 miles ago and a complete refit is the plan.

The transmission is running very well, it's the engine that is coughing and sputtering. I used GL5 lube in both tranny and transfer case. Seems fine.

So What you are saying is to replace my upstream O2
I do like that I can lose the CAT. Do I still need to put the downstream sensor in the mix or can I cut it lose?

Is is a possibility to remove both up and downstream sensors? Or would that totally mess things up? You see - it's our get around vehicle too and we need a quick fix while we wait for parts. Possible?

CEL - Service Engine Soon Light? yes, it's on but don't know what the code is. Don't have a reader.. Where is the one that is USB abale? Be good to have.

Cheers.

[fixkick]

Thanks for the reply - I do have a whole list of parts in my shopping cart at Rock Auto.. \they can get them to our forwarder in Miami and that's good enough.. Just the wait is all. Thanks for the tip.

I just finished replacing the clutch on it - Oh - 4x4 5 speed - and am now noticing it running rough and missing on steady rpm under load. i.e. it sputters if I keep it at 3,000 rpm and also when I try and accelerate.
Treat it like a race car (WOT) and it performs fine...
As much fun as that is - it's got 150,000 miles on it and I don't think she'll take that for long.
Did put a new cylinder head about 5,000 miles ago and a complete refit is the plan.

The transmission is running very well, it's the engine that is coughing and sputtering. I used GL5 lube in both tranny and transfer case. Seems fine.

So What you are saying is to replace my upstream O2
I do like that I can lose the CAT. Do I still need to put the downstream sensor in the mix or can I cut it lose?
id just tape the whole sensor and harness there to the frame rail. (for the next owner, or?) the heater wires must not touch to car body. (bare or conn, pins)

Is is a possibility to remove both up and downstream sensors? Or would that totally mess things up? You see - it's our get around vehicle too and we need a quick fix while we wait for parts. Possible? may be
if you remove the upstream it will go rich and stay there. i bet. suck fuel and foul sparks,,, inplug it for a day (front) and see if the sputtering stops.
or worse..

CEL - Service Engine Soon Light? yes, it's on but don't know what the code is. Don't have a reader.. Where is the one that is USB cable
? Be good to have.
any usb cable ELM 327 works, it like $9 there. OBD2 adaptor.
it be fun to see what the upstream sensor is doing,
if the exhaust leaks, air that sensor reads lean, (false) and the fuel system slams rich , fouling spark plugs and sputtering,
the engine will run like dream with the front 02 working, it will with any tight exhaust system.
that cheap scan tool will show Close Loop, (CL) and the Long term trim will be like -5%
if the exhaust leeks, the EFI will Add tons of fuel, say +40% long term fuel (LTFT) and foul plugs,
usually lean is bogging, not sputtering,
what happens, is the AFR is like 9:1 , if O2 is fibbing like above, sputtering, then you go WIDE open throttle the ECU cuts the o2 out of the circuit and
goes to PURE MAF readings, and snaps to a perfect 12.5:1 AFR, full power, and no sputter.
id try pulling the 02 front see if it sputters less, as the pull O2 voltage goes to the middle. range, removed. ECU does that trick.
This can aid diagnosis scan tool free.
your 16v has the 02 bung on the end of the exhaust manifold collector end. so its ready to receive a new one, discounted here.
the bosch hand wired one, (no conn) is 15730-4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Bosch-15...f0&vxp=mtr


the pnp (with connector ) is 13073 bosch, plug and play.

the Front 02 connector is on the left fire wall , next to brake booster, it has and unlock lever.



Cheers.

[StoneAge]

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[fixkick]

are you going ok stoneage ?

good luck to you.

[StoneAge]

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[StoneAge]

Is this now defined?

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Hey - Am able to post again..

Have not resolved the issues. Still had the "dead spots" while driving along. Running and then nothing. Stomp on it and maybe it'll come to life again - eventually it will.

No real difference with the O2 sensor unplugged.

Just changed my fuel filter and now it dies when I put it in reverse. I used the tail light unplug method for de-presurization. Plugged all back in and she starts up - is hesitant to gain any revs but WILL move forward. As soon as I put her into reverse - revs go down and she dies after a few seconds. Like the reverse lights are sucking the power away from the fuel pump.

I am about at my wits end over this. Nothing makes sense.

Is there any way I can remove all this pollution crap and get on with using my vehicle without the electronics? Probably not. But I'd bet it would get the same mileage with a 2 BBL carb and regular manifold.

Hope to hear a reply soon.. Thanks

[StoneAge]

Ok Back to life. - After the replacing of the fuel filter and cleaning the plug with the pink wire behind the tail light - Seems it all came back. No hesitations or "dead spots" Big test is tomorrow (Feb 18) heading to town (40 minutes each way) . Did do a 6 mile test after all was put back together and no stress. Seems to all be working. Right now - Happy happy!

[fixkick]

makes sense if MAF reads ok, on damand
the fuel pressure is dropping off line. bam.
you did the 1/2 punch to that
and i hope you can run fast hard and long.
good luck !