97 Sidekick Sport 1.8L - CUTS OUT AT 1/4 THROTTLE

[fixkick]

good luck
cables exposed to salt
like in the salt belt states, can be hopeless.. rust.
winter salt can easily wreck all cars.

[MtTrails]

OK, thanks for that great tip. I will do this today. Will anything be damaged if I were to force the cable back a bit to help free it up?

should be ok
its stuck out so, going back in ,the other end at part ID20 , the bell crank is spring loaded.
id work it in/out, get oil or to start penetrating oil at first.
its just no different than bicycle brake cables... sheath and a center cable.

I got the upper end of the cable into a baggie of oil, but my transmission has the shifter cable connected here on the right side. Not the kick down cable.

[MtTrails]

I left the cable end elevated and in a bag of oil all night, but it still will not free up. I tried pushing and pulling on the cable to free it in the housing, but no luck. I guess I'll try to find one of those control cable oilers and see if I can force some oil into the housing. Could it be broken inside the transmission some how?

[MtTrails]

I have a code PO 505 Idle Air Control System. What does that pertain to?

[fixkick]

the inside cable (kickdown)is bathed in ATF oil full time, sits, just above valve body
yes the lower end can break off, and then the cable inside wire, pulls out of casing. see part ID 20?
the cables can crack out side casing is plastic, and if did, water gets inside cable and that is all pure steel there, RUST it will

505, means PCM has trouble controlling idle. (means iSC valve, seems to not respond correctly and hold idle at 800rpm)
any thing that cause idle controls to fails sets this DTC. even leaking, EGR,lean engine, misfiring, or sticking ISC.

that shaft through the transmission is long, and is called the manual control vavle shaft.
left side shifts there.
right is PRNDL switch see that bundle of wires?
the kick down is behind that PRNDL.

see that bell crank device, #20 (in a vast flood of ATF fluid,there ,like shower of aTF, as the planetary gears fling oil madly.)
see that hole there. the cable fits there, in that hold, just like the other end , a ball end on cable fits in that hole
see spring 17 , that is what keeps the cable tight, (acceleration,) other wise it go slack
cables,(all) have many failure modes, rust or break, either end.

[fixkick]

the lower cable end has fitting and 0-ring
this 0-ring keeps the oil leaking out the cable end.

note how part 20 looks just like the TB
on other end
G16b but same, see the bell crank,? same deal on this end, that huskey spring keeps it closed , the other end of TV (kickdown) does same but weaker spring.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...B-95-A.jpg

[MtTrails]

1. Wow, thanks for that information and the diagram. If I can't get the cable to free up, I guess I will have to pull the pan. I have heard that those cables are not available any more. If that's the case I guess I would be wasting my time.
Will this cable lube tool work on this cable?

2. Now my idle is too high, at 1200 RPM fully warmed up. Whatever caused the P505 Code must be making it idle too high also.

[fixkick]

yes, only hope is
1:new cable, a hard nut to crack there and a stinking bath in AFT, (im still willing to do it at 69
2:HOPE there is always hope, that tool can work on any cable, but may take many tries,even 50 tries.
rust has no limits, if totally solid rust, and expanded as rust does, hope can end, im truly sorry , it can, pure luck here.
THIS TOOLS IS BOOTED, IN RUBBER, AND IT CLAMPS HARD TO CABLE AND TINY HOLE IS FOR PENETRATING OIL CAN, RED NOZZEL STRAW TIP.

wishing you maX LUCK !!!!!!!

IF IDLE 1200 hot.
can only be (list)
the TV not closing
ISC leaks or is dead.
IAC must be closed. some have a funny device that holds throttle of stops. some have no IAC at all, thermal air valve. no electrics here.
limphome will cause idle controls dead, but most times, never 1200 RPM that high. but? that is all software. in pCM

when it races,open hood, push on throttle TV shaft end, close TV by hand, see if its off its stops
you know stops right., see the G16 stop, it that never touch screw , on all 91+ cars. suzuki.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...B-95-A.jpg


here is the IAC, so called COLD START PLUNGER
THIS CAN FAIL
http://fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Sport-IAC.jpg

JUST WATCH IT AT 1200 RPM
http://fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Sport-IAC.jpg

IT MUST RETRACT OR ENGINE RACES HOT.

[fixkick]

MORE SURE
BE HAPPY IS NOT THROTTLE BY WIRE(TBW), AND $1500 PARTS TO FIX IT.? (look ma, no cable now,, and no lawsuits)

ok, you have 4 advantages here. at least, not TBW above, is one but counting that..
1: cables one can and sees all 3 cables (2 you) are slack and not holding MR TV brass plate open
2: the plunger, is a thermal iAC, (small) and most NOT hold open Mr, TV at any time hot. ever. or its bad.
The "A" dimension is 1.048 to 1.078" @ 25deg C or 77F and fully retracts off cam at 126 to 154deg F. spec inbook, (180f is always fully retrated.
one can look at the TB/Tv STOPS, TO SEE THE TV IS 100% CLOSED AT ANY TIME HOT, AND END THE WONDER MENT OF ALL THIS.

BUT NOT THIS. THIS IS AN ELECTRIC AIR VALVE (IDLE CONTROLLER)
3: the iSC can be removed and cleaned,its all by its self there.

in most cases, vacuum leaks,cause lean and too SLOW idle. (vacuum leaks can buy pass the MAF)
or stalls
BUt there is this nice exception to rules. like that
its ,
PCM in limphome, mode, and rich as piggy
then one gets failure 2, vacuum leaks
so rich fuse, + leaks equals, RACING.
pinching hoses finds them(most not all, seen even egr gaskets missing etc.


this is a serial process, and where we go depends on evidence and testing.

#4 last and not least the TV can be seen by humans, not on G16b running
on your cool engine, the TB has an on board, MAF
that means you can run engine, and look inside and see, if the TV is open, ACID test way, see? the TV is 99.9% closed,
the 0.1% Prevents the TV plate from jamming in the bore, and gouging it out each time you lift your right foot. all bad bad that.

even in limp home a brake vacuum booster could cause RACING (means screaming idle) and dangerous, with a/t traNS AND LATE TEEN DRIVERS.
ever seeN the 1996+ rules on limp"(AT AND OF THIS PAGE)

btw
#2 here is PLUNGER
http://fixkick.com/engine/18L/18L228.jpg

the isc is here
http://fixkick.com/engine/18L/18L229.jpg

my 1.8L idle page covers all this tuff

http://fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/J18-idle.html




last limp

MAF = P0102/103
IAT = P0112/113
ECT = P0117/118
TPS = P112/123
VSS1 = P0500 ( speedo vss) Vehicle Speed sensor = VSS
TR = P0705 (A/T Range shifter output in conflict)
VSS2 = P0720 ( 4sp Vss tail speed sensor dead)
SS#1 = P0753 (shift solenoid 1 bad)
SS#2 = P0758 (shift solenoid 2 bad)
TCC = P0743 (torque converter clutch malf)


the full ist is in he SM for 1.8,that I dont have.
this is pure software rules. best is to have no DTCs, and win the war.


best post
in the end, the poor human must make the computer brain happy.!

[fixkick]

THE ODD THING
WHEN THE ECU, SEES 180F, IT SEES 120O RPM
IT SLAMS THE ISC SHUT
AND STLLL 1200
answer you have a huge leak of air,for sure
good cars stall dead, ISC slammed shut, all do.