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96 Tracker CTS / Temp gauge issue
#1
Recent new owner of a 96 Geo tracker 16V 2door 4wd MT with 230k miles .

CEL is on for p0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit – High Input malfunction
Runs rough after warm up and dies at idle after warm up = rich condition 

Also temp gauge at dash starts when cold , at half warm mark and one warmed up shows full / pegged HOT .

Live data with hand held scanner plugged into OBDII port shows -40 for coolant temps at all times .

Replaced both the CTS for ECU and the temp sensor for dash = no change 

Tested the instrument cluster by unplugging the temp sensor for dash indicator while running = no change ( still indicates wrong temps )

Tested the new CTS with OHM meter ( pig tail unplugged ) = tested good ( 2.7 or something like that bone cold )

Tested the new CTS with OHM meter ( pig tail plugged in ) = tested at 1.75 or something like that, bone cold , at backside of pigtail.

My Q is .......

I think, I have a problem with the actual instrument cluster and Im wondering if the wiring for the CTS is looped into the cluster some how ?
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#2
(07-12-2020, 01:16 AM)GeorgeGEO Wrote: Recent new owner of a 96 Geo tracker 16V 2door 4wd MT with 230k miles .

CEL is on for p0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit – High Input malfunction
Runs rough after warm up and dies at idle after warm up = rich condition 

Also temp gauge at dash starts when cold , at half warm mark and one warmed up shows full / pegged HOT .

Live data with hand held scanner plugged into OBDII port shows -40 for coolant temps at all times . ( it does not lie to you , wires cut to ECT or sensor is bad)

Replaced both the CTS (old name) ECT (new name) CTS is 1980s samuria days, for ECU and the temp sensor for dash = no change  but what did the new ECT OBD2 scans show?

Tested the instrument cluster by unplugging the temp sensor for dash indicator while running = no change ( still indicates wrong temps )

Tested the new CTS with OHM meter ( pig tail unplugged ) = tested good ( 2.7  no that is 2.7K or 2700 OHMS or something like that bone cold )
when using any DMM , look at the LCD,  with Greek omega symbol on LCD that is  pure homes, so 2.7 is 2.7 homes but With K icon on the LCD that  is x1000
k= 1000,for kilo.
M-  1 meg, range,  or x1,000,000 or x 1meg.

Tested the new CTS with OHM meter ( pig tail plugged in (this is invalid test)) = tested at 1.75 or something like that, bone cold ,  at backside of pigtail.
why skip measuring both old and new ETC, unplugged. ?

so with engine "FULLY" hot, you pull the ECT connector, and the 2 pins on the ECT read 300 ohms or 0.3K ohm.  this proves sensor, is reading 180f.
most times the thermostat is bad, they last 7 years, and fail. too hot or too cold, endless and forever true. the wax pellet inside short lived,
or worn thermostat, 160f is dead nuts wrong, and will cause the ECU to go nuts and show, wrong temp scanned
but your  scans show the wires to the ECT are cut in the engine bay or the dash.

this is 100% electrical problem ECU to ECT, wires bad. and there are 2 wires.


My Q is .......

I think, I have a problem with the actual instrument cluster and Im wondering if the wiring for the CTS is looped into the cluster some how ?
no  ! the gauge has its Very own sensor, in fact is 1 pin Faston™ type connector push on single pin.  
[quote pid='12973' dateline='1594480613']

if the cluster sensor reads wrong if its sensor is bad, 1 pin cheap sensor. and  not the gauge bad, this sensor is not ECT sensor,
the cluster gauge is not an instrument at all it is just there to yell at you , gee the engine will burn up soon. its way way too hot, red zone.
it is not calibrated nor is it accurate at all in fact has no F numbers on it.
leave this for last, dead last if at all. fix bad wires.


now about OBD2,  (do not be fooled by stored DTC errors)

all errors are stored in memory (fuse marked dome ) erases that. Pulled
if you key on with ECT unplugged,. (did you) the eCU for sure every time stores that in DTC error RAM.

so before condemning any ECT ever do this. (keyoff)
  1. plug in the ECT first.(conn)
  2. pull dome fuse for 1 min ,
  3. put back dome fuse. DTC memory is now erased, no matter what.
  4. key on
  5. scan oBD2,again.
  6. now it scan reads  right for sure engine running,
  7. if you key off a hot engine the coolant will go over 180f, and SCANS tell you it did and is normal called hot soak temps.
the ECT P0118 DTC error is tripped at -55F (an illegal state) and means wire cut or ETC guts inside are cracked,deep  deep inside the ECT, so if NEW ECT trips 118
after pulling the dome fuse, and putting back dome.
then wires are bad for sure to ECT.
the ECU is not bad, never seen any input fail, on any ECU, outputs big time fail.

inputs hear have super protections circuits on them and noise filters too, real nice quality, but not output.(off topic outputs)
P0118 means the sensor is at +5vdc, a dead open sensor. (or you keyed on , with sensor connector removed)

note my cool  chart for the ECT I made with voltages.

i tested down to -18F (minus 18) in very cold freezer. 4.4v,  
on a hot engine learn to back probe the ECT sensor with needle probes to rear side connector pins on hot engine 0.65vdc is normal, and is 180F
this ECT is a calibrated thermistor device, NTC>  neg. temp co.
the hotter it gets the lower the ohms it shows. (opposite)

is this a real scan tool that lets you say plot a ECT ? or just  DTC code scanning tool, no live sensors scans allowed.
$29 tool is not a real scan tool. just a code grabber,.
[/quote]
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
OBDII port shows -40 for coolant temps at all times .

a real tool you have, by this statement.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#4
Forgot to mention , Also did full timing belt service with fresh coolant , thermostat and water pump .
No change to temp gauge at dash and code scanner live data still reads -40 at all times .
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#5
My background - 11 years Import only auto tech .
Once purchased - purged entire system of all old data and started fresh with clean / baby fresh ECU knowledge .

To repeat ....
Coolant temp Sensor for ECU is Facet brand from my vendor IMC and in good working order - still getting p0118 and uber rich fuel system.
Single wire temp sensor for gauge changed as well from same vendor and still getting faulty reading at dash and OBDII port live data reading -40 degrees at all times .

Thermostat , coolant , water pump , timing belt , valve check and adjustment ( they were all tight btw ) done - still getting all above mentioned faults .

Its has to be ...
1 - bad wiring from or possibly bad pigtail at coolant temp sensor , from sensor to ECU
2- cluster temp issue = bad cluster

I have not seen a wiring schematic to see if the gauge cluster is in loop to the ECU so that is why I asked about that .
I have seen some Nissan's do that with charging systems .
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