96 pontiac sunrunner bad idle miss bog

[fixkick]

our car 1996, has crank sensor (bottom front of front engine crankshaft main pulley)
and this. the OBD2 DLC is here, on all ours, got one of these nice puppies>?


http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/1999.jpg

[fixkick]

I ask that because not all cars made at CAMI, 1996 in canada, are the same
for sure not ours.
our USA car 1996 is radically different than any 95
EFI wise and smog wise and wiring and sensors and ECU , all different now.
by USA EPA LAWS, mandated
in Canada, 1998 mandated,
what they did to a sunrunner ive no clue. but could tell with one glance in 2 spots.
under hood., and at ECU and DLC port. under dash.
we look first , always, before doing anything, to see what is there.
and for hacks and modes.
most pro shops will not touch any modified, cars, (due to not for sure outcomes and tons of labor.) not me others....most... shops.
some shops even balk at age of cars, suzuki parts are not easy to find, and discontinued at suzuki.
like the MAF sensors sold from CHINA, pure junk C4 crap, at $100 price not $1000 at suzuki... (cheap cloned commy crap, C4 coined a cool guy here)
the maf is a key sensor, to EFI if output is wrong weak , 95hp is IMPOSSIBLE . and I do know how to test it, on car and off car. for sure.

[fixkick]

here is my 1996 maf data , i scanned while driving.
TPS TV angle and maf
but first fuel pressure must be at spec. for sure wide open throttle or you will never ever get 95hp seen below.

http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/MAF-TPS.JPG

[Barkerman77]

sorry i cant see your car, not now ,
I can only fix stock cars, modified is engineering work. (race car stuff and and endless topic, and vast issues)
ok it ran ok before, sure.
got it.
but what are the 4 pressures tests, done correctly.

I do this, using the correct way, at the fuel rail pressure, using he $10 adaptor seen on my 16v pump page. best of the best this, so you can do injector leak down tests and not go mad.
or now we know, the stock banjo's are gone and with hit the test port, so use at TEE fitting.
there is NO OTHER WAY to test pressure,
the FPR love to fail now, after 22years, vast posts online now, for FPR dead, even the vacuum port leaks fuel, yup dead.
the tests are: (not shunt shunt test is 60psi not 30 ever. at least 60 sure 70 is ok)
1: key on , no start , pressure.
2: idle pressure.
3: throttle gunned hard pressure.(rises by 6psi , if not there will be no power from engine, no 95HP possible)

if not in spec the ECU will never ever inject correctly,. how could it , The ECU cant see pressure (likenew cars can), and that is #1 issues on all EFI made, pressure must be in spec.

id do not know your driving symptoms.
1: misfiring?
2: bogging.
3: hot and cold engine or just one. or both.
4: hot idle at 800 rpm?
5: fails at idle only or only accelerating or only on hills or only flat easy cruise at say 45mph. ? or all modes fail? hot and cold>????
6: water temps good 180+f hot, not 150 not 160 ever, are not good.
7:engine shakes hard at idle. (misfiring)
8: spark plugs fouled. black.
9: engine floods.? wet spark plug tips any of the 4, (injector failures)
10: engine compression ok WOT. 180psi

The scan tools works here, in usa, for 1996,up, is yours car using OBD2 ECU, the 16pin DLC connector above right shin bone is it, 16 D-shell shaped, female pins>?
some canada cars only run OBD2 in 1998, by law there.
and makes diagnoses far more easy if it is OBD2. for sure. scanning it, for DTC errors.

Ive no problems at all with non stock tanks or pumps,(i know how to do it correctly but others systems are totally infinite ways)
what matters only are the pressure tests all 3 and shut.

i even have a portable fuel pressure sender so i can test on hills at full 95HP output, finds the hard nut cases, under full load. most time not ever needed, but I can do it.

both hot and cold it runs crappy.
missfires under acceleration if over .25 throttle
lopes on idle
in low range we are testing it around the yard and cant get second gear to rev out at all because of the bog/missfire.
so for the most part it kind of seems to be pointing to the fuel pressure.
if the fuel pressure regulator is dud what will it do ? over fuel or underfuel and send everything back to tank?
while its sputtering and running rough at idle i pulled the vacuum line off the regulator nothing changed. it still ran rough. revving it up was still the same as before. i blocked the vacuum line when i pulled to just to be clear.

---

our car 1996, has crank sensor (bottom front of front engine crankshaft main pulley)
and this. the OBD2 DLC is here, on all ours, got one of these nice puppies>?


http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/1999.jpg

yes it is a obd 2

[fixkick]

is the sensor missing? OBD2 mandates this sensor, USA , 1996 and up.
by law.
it i must be there.

you key on, and CEL glows (lamp) a.k.a, MIL or SES, it glows for telling you the lamp is ok and ecu not dead, (nor last guy sold it removed the lamp to hide the BAD)
then start engine and the CEL goes out, check engine lamp = CEL , if not the ECU must be scanned next.
that is true 1996 to 2018 and beyond.

scan it next , and when the missing CKP crank sensor is plugged in again, drive and scan it again/. for errors, keep in mind not all errors glow the CEL, and that means only scan tools find all errors. (worse on canada cars they hide misfire codes, but not using a scanner, the FSM has page just on Canada and the funny rules on hiding faults and leaving the CEL turned off.
This fact is covererd in the FSM , pages on ECU and diagnostics. (free book)

to reset all codes, (dtc errors) , pull the dome fuse (key out of ignition)
wait a minute, and put the fuse back and all codes forgotten, be sure to write them down first then clear them.
P400 is bad EGR
P421, is lazy CAT
all other codes, are all very bad.

[Barkerman77]

So i think we've found it. Fpr is toast. Only 28psi shunt test. It's leaking thru fpr. I checked the pump for max pressure and it run about 56 58. New fpr is on order.

[fixkick]

COOL, shunt is good, so pump is ok and lines back there ok, filter clean,
the FPR or injectors leak like mad.

5 things can leak, 4 injectors, the FPR
if doing the leak down test, all 5 things can leak (or 6) the 4 injectors, the FPR, the check ball valve in pump or the hose in the tank cracked top of pump to top of rack.

if you do a test with spark plugs out, key on say 10 times, see of gas lands top of pistons, then 4 places are now eliminated.
FPR and check ball, (leak down fails)
the live pressure test low, most times is the FPR if shut passes. and sparks dry. (filter not packed)

[Barkerman77]

Leak down is fine. Its the fpr thats bad. I can hear fuel coming back to tank while testing.

[fixkick]

rap it with a screw driver handle, wap wap,
it might unstick for a day
that old FPR

[Barkerman77]

New one will be here today anyways.