95 tracker no start

[BigJake]

Just found this forum and havent found the exact problem.
I have a 95 tracker with a 16 valve I just got finished swapping a 97 16 valve into it as oil pump failur broke my camshaft.
 The 97 was a good running engine out of a wrecked 2 wd mine is 4x4. I did the swap and even swapped the intakes and harness I also had to swap the distributor to the 97 engine.
I cannot seem to get this thing to fire. Something seems to be shutting my fuel off. I have good hot blue spark not 100 percent sure it's timed correctly but it seems to be, brought number one up in compression stroke checked valves they are all closed on number 1. Dizzy was pointing at number 1 I am using 1 4 3 2 as order CCW rotation.it just had a new timing belt installed before wreck. It is timed at 8 degrees. This thing has me stumped. Take me back To the basics what am i missing? I have code 12 but it sure doesnt run....any  ideas?

[fixkick]

Just found this forum and havent found the exact problem.
I have a 95 tracker with a 16 valve I just got finished swapping a 97 16 valve into it as oil pump failur broke my camshaft.
 The 97 was a good running engine out of a wrecked 2 wd mine is 4x4.
I did the swap and even swapped the intakes and harness I also had to swap the distributor to the 97 engine.
I cannot seem to get this thing to fire (no spark) spark is good but timing wrong or engine bad.
. Something seems to be shutting my fuel off. (normal 100% the ECU sees spark dead, so cuts all fuel. to prevent massive fuel flooding and even bend rods)
I have good hot blue spark not 100 percent sure it's timed correctly but it seems to be, brought number one up in compression stroke checked valves they are all closed on number 1. Dizzy was pointing at number 1 I am using 1 4 3 2 as order CCW rotation.it just had a new timing belt installed before wreck. It is timed at 8 degrees.  wrong 1342,  
1432 is for flat boxer engine, this is not.
This thing has me stumped. Take me back To the basics what am i missing? I have code 12 but it sure doesnt run....any  ideas?

welcome, and below is my way, based on AGE of car, (steps)
first off the 97 is OBD2 system  and 95 Is not , its OBD1;
the error you made is not swapping it as basic long block (you did whole engine +did manifolds, and worse is distributor, )
the OBD2 distrib has no way to work in a OBD1 ECU, car.95 , so there can be no spark. so i see you figured that out. EGR is different too on 97, (but must be modified to work with 95 ECU brain)
the first thing to do on ANY G16 is make sure that large 17mm head bottom crank bolt is at 94ft/lbs,  CW turned and torqued to new spec, or risk bad crank #2 easy.
then check compression , why do all this work if 97 engine is bad,  or even cam belt slipped,  180PSI is PAR. x4 (sure it ran before but how long ago I dont know so..... i do this step)
then time the distributor last but only if cam is timed right or is a wasted effort. (new belt so may be ok, compression if done right, and the false marks on the cam cog wheel, make doing this wrong SO EASY)
the DIZZY rotor spins CCW, on this engine, not  CW. (as 8valve G16a does opposite)
so we time it in the CCW  rotation.
per

https://fixkick.com/16v-ignition-timing

if timing was off the strobe light works even dead engine cranked.  does #1 strobe correctly hear 0deg (8degrees BTDC)?

the factory installed the distributor one of 4 ways,  the O-clock rule to match the harness wires.  at 1PM see in the graph above, link;. or below photo.
step 7 drops the distributor correctly.  this is the best way,  I can do it 3 other ways but this is best. 1PM timed.
crank is at 0degree TDC or 8degr btdc. while timing, it this way static base timing, (ecu does spark advance not dizzy on this car)
rotor is at 1PM (crank TDC 0)
lay the wires down as seen. in the drawing linked above.
all the photos there are for 96+so do not be worried there, the 96up have internal spark coil and side connector a bit different , times the same way. (avoid the 96up distib, it is useless on 1995 ECU)

[fixkick]

if spark and engine are good test fuel works sprayed in the intake.
if engine is good then spark is bad if test fuel fails.
just that simple, all gas engine, on diesel, no spark needed.
rare exceptions, love em'/ CAT melted and exhaust 100% blocked, abut fails a vacuum test cranked, and/ or fails compression too. (good engine clogged exhaust 100%)
if spark seems right use test fuel next, even with FI fuse pulled so engine cant flood.

can of test fuel (CRC brand with top end lube if paranoid ,<used as valid not bad word, justified.)

[fixkick]

with 2 wire crossed a 4banger will not want to start, or like a Model "T" Ford, with steering spark lever set wrong, BOOM wacka wacka BOOM. watch movie "hog wild" by Laurel & Hardy, bingo.

[BigJake]

Just found this forum and havent found the exact problem.
I have a 95 tracker with a 16 valve I just got finished swapping a 97 16 valve into it as oil pump failur broke my camshaft.
 The 97 was a good running engine out of a wrecked 2 wd mine is 4x4.
I did the swap and even swapped the intakes and harness I also had to swap the distributor to the 97 engine.
I cannot seem to get this thing to fire (no spark) spark is good but timing wrong or engine bad.
. Something seems to be shutting my fuel off. (normal 100% the ECU sees spark dead, so cuts all fuel. to prevent massive fuel flooding and even bend rods)
I have good hot blue spark not 100 percent sure it's timed correctly but it seems to be, brought number one up in compression stroke checked valves they are all closed on number 1. Dizzy was pointing at number 1 I am using 1 4 3 2 as order CCW rotation.it just had a new timing belt installed before wreck. It is timed at 8 degrees.  wrong 1342,  
1432 is for flat boxer engine, this is not.
This thing has me stumped. Take me back To the basics what am i missing? I have code 12 but it sure doesnt run....any  ideas?

welcome, and below is my way, based on AGE of car, (steps)
first off the 97 is OBD2 system  and 95 Is not , its OBD1;
the error you made is not swapping it as basic long block (you did  whole engine +did manifolds, and worse is distributor, )
the OBD2 distrib has no way to work in a OBD1 ECU, car.95 , so there can be no spark. so i see you figured that out.  EGR is different too on 97, (but must  be modified to work with 95 ECU brain)
the first thing to do on ANY G16 is make sure that large 17mm head bottom crank bolt is at 94ft/lbs,  CW turned and torqued to new spec, or risk bad crank #2 easy.
then check compression , why do all this work if 97 engine is bad,  or even cam belt slipped,  180PSI is PAR. x4 (sure it ran before but how long ago I dont know so..... i do this step)
then time the distributor last but only if cam is timed right or is a wasted effort.  (new belt so may be ok, compression if done right, and the false marks on the cam cog wheel, make doing this wrong SO EASY)
the DIZZY rotor spins CCW, on this engine, not  CW. (as 8valve G16a does opposite)
so we time it in the CCW  rotation.
per

https://fixkick.com/16v-ignition-timing

if timing was off the strobe light works even dead engine cranked.  does #1 strobe correctly hear 0deg (8degrees BTDC)?  

the factory installed the distributor one of 4 ways,  the  O-clock rule  to match the harness wires.  at 1PM see in the graph above, link;. or below photo.
step  7 drops the distributor correctly.  this is the best way,  I can do it 3 other ways but this is best. 1PM timed.
crank is at 0degree TDC or 8degr btdc. while timing, it this way static base timing, (ecu does spark advance not dizzy on this car)
rotor is at 1PM (crank TDC  0)
lay the wires down as seen. in the drawing linked above.
all the photos there are for 96+so do not be worried there, the 96up have internal spark coil and side connector a bit different , times the same way.  (avoid the 96up distib, it is useless on 1995 ECU)

Thanks for the reply. I was tired when I posted the other night. The firing order is 1 4 3 2 and that is how I have it in a CCW rotation. My compression is between 180 and 185. I can get just a brief startup by spraying gas into the intake no way to keep it running on the spray bottle which is very weird. It's like something is saying shut the fire off. I  did swap the entire 97 engine in at first then switched the distibutor from the 95 into the 97. I also switched the entire harness and injectors and intake because of the differences in sensors and such. I'm at a complete loss here this makes no sense.

[fixkick]

[/quote]
Thanks for the reply. I was tired when I posted the other night. The firing order is 1 4 3 2 and that is how I have it in a CCW rotation. My compression is between 180 and 185. I can get just a brief startup by spraying gas into the intake no way to keep it running on the spray bottle which is very weird. It's like something is saying shut the fire off. I  did swap the entire 97 engine in at first then switched the distibutor from the 95 into the 97. I also switched the entire harness and injectors and intake because of the differences in sensors and such. I'm at a complete loss here this makes no sense.
[/quote]
that firing order is wrong, its not 1 4, 3 2, ever.

[fixkick]

compression is SUPER !

[BigJake]

Thanks for the reply. I was tired when I posted the other night. The firing order is 1 4 3 2 and that is how I have it in a CCW rotation. My compression is between 180 and 185. I can get just a brief startup by spraying gas into the intake no way to keep it running on the spray bottle which is very weird. It's like something is saying shut the fire off. I  did swap the entire 97 engine in at first then switched the distibutor from the 95 into the 97. I also switched the entire harness and injectors and intake because of the differences in sensors and such. I'm at a complete loss here this makes no sense.
[/quote]
that firing order is wrong,  its not 1 4, 3 2,  ever.
[/quote]
For some reason I wrote the order wrong AGAIN.....they are hooked 1-3-4-2 number 1 is at the 1 o clock position on distibutor number 3 is at 11 o'clock 4 is 8 o clock and 2 is 5 o clock. Is there any way to check the distributor to make sure it isn't failing?

[fixkick]

Thanks for the reply. I was tired when I posted the other night. The firing order is 1 4 3 2 and that is how I have it in a CCW rotation. My compression is between 180 and 185. I can get just a brief startup by spraying gas into the intake no way to keep it running on the spray bottle which is very weird. It's like something is saying shut the fire off. I  did swap the entire 97 engine in at first then switched the distibutor from the 95 into the 97. I also switched the entire harness and injectors and intake because of the differences in sensors and such. I'm at a complete loss here this makes no sense.

that firing order is wrong,  its not 1 4, 3 2,  ever.
[/quote]
For some reason I wrote the order wrong AGAIN.....they are hooked 1-3-4-2 number 1 is at the 1 o clock position on distibutor number 3 is at 11 o'clock 4 is 8 o clock and 2 is 5 o clock. Is there any way to check the distributor to make sure it isn't failing?
[/quote]

[fixkick]

so with the cap off and crank at 0degree TDC mark and both valve #1 closed (lash loose #1 and tight #4 no lash) the rotor points to #1 wire, now  if yes, the distributor is timed good enough.
You don't have one of this fake china rotors that fit on 3 ways,? unlike BOSCH that fits only 1 way do you, the new car it fits on one way and only one way,  it has spring clip on the bottom of the rotor that for sure blocks 2 of 3 insertions, but the china crap is just that, junk. when you see on of those you will get real angry , for sure,,,,,,,
what that crap does is wreck he CMP to Rotor timing relationship, something you NEVER Want to  experience.! end C4 rant (cheap china commy crap) C4, coined by a buddy here)

next up, is the missing part that gets lost at many engine pulls and swaps that very tiny, ignition suppressor filter module.
https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slideshow...-8v-1w.jpg
falls off and spark goes weak and fueling ends. (cuz brown wire dead, brown is tachometer signal, if tacho goes dead, on any G16, ECU cuts fuel hard. all do that)
The suppressor is   located in left harness front engine bay, thumb-sized, see your spark only schematic below this is all it is. to make spark. (ECU included) as seen here.
https://fixkick.com/ECU/only-spark-16v.JPG
Test FUEL: hand brakes set, front wheel chocks set , tranny in park or neutral and 4wd in neutral if have 4wd.
Test fuel is best done , dry engine (parked over night)  then
FI  fuse pulled,  (with throttle blocked open by hand a tad) then try test fuel engine runs for short time but sounds good.

sounds good means hitting on all 4 cylinders  not less.... above considers engine is flooded to begin so we dry it out. then test with test fuel to  get good test.


NEXT? ( let ECU tell you spark is bad, this can work, or not, depends how done) the 1 in 20 rule or some such rot.  1 CMP pulse in 20 list bam TDC sets.
CMP is in the base of the DIZZY.
insert diagnostic jumper in DLC,  key on , see code 12 flash, out it code.
then:
crank for 5 seconds stop, see code 41 or 42? repeat 3 times, to make sure those 2 DTC codes are not showing 41/42, 12 = normal.
the  goal  here is try to get 20 CMP hits.  10 crank turns, = 20 hits of the CMP, if the ECU sees 1 drop bam DTC store.

The classic test spark plug setting outside spark well and grounded is 1 test, repeat 1,2,3,4 plugs, gapped at .028" never at 0.045" as the spark maker sets the out of factory.
beyond this classic test.    https://fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showt...#sparktest
Beyond above,
checking spark is not really easy on any dead engine   or lacking  a  SCOPE and magnetic pickup.


here is the test , not too hard but more steps.   
The timing light works best lacking  good Oscilloscope.  even those cheap $20 are harbor freight (inductive pickup only)
SPARK TEST:
what can be done is this,  battery charged even on boost charge.
FI fuse pulled so no fuel can inject now. or runs over test person in front of car. hand brakes set, front wheel chocks set , tranny in park or neutral and 4wd in neutral if have 4wd.
connect strobe light to #1 wire front HV spark plug wire.
point strop to crank pulley, person 2 cranks engine you see spark land at 0 tick mark outer rim of pully near 0. (this a classic timing step here, but most folks stop here)
stop, cranking and move move strobe to #3 (not a typo)
crank see strobe land at 180degr off exactly on pulley. AT POINT "B" below. good. (and its steady)
move strobe to #4 see spark land 0degr.  POINT "A" again.
move strobe to #2 spark wire, see flash land on 180degr  off, (from 0) at "B"
in each step, crank for 5 seconds to be sure it hits each time perfectly, the hits are solid and not skipped,  so distributor is working,! end test.
if you get this far TEST FUEL works. (we know for sure the cam is  timed right due to 180PSI x4.  no false marks possible with that great PSI)

[img] https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tdc-look2.jpg[/img]
last and for sure, 97 parts related to spark put  on any 95 is FAIL HARD the DIZZY is wildly different, as would be using 97 harness here on any 95.  will not work.

here is SCOTTY tests, its not perfect but good.  ( pretend HE says , bad engine , bad spark or bad fueling at the beginning) (or even bad fuel) the videos are time limited so must be terse.
Tha "hole" there is IAT sensor, and missing on 1992 sidekicks, oops, but we can even pull the maf and feed fuel there.
the fuel line trick finds dead pumps ONLY< never weak PSI, as a BAD FPR CAN DO.
PreAmble to scotty should say, check all fuses first, then scan for DTC errors for sure after 5 seconds cranking and release key and not turned off see if DTC SHOW. (41/41 or p0300s.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8...ature=fvwp