95 tracker miss after warm up

[1995 toad]

as i say i hope it fixes the problem... never went rich or anything...always seemed to be lean... fingers crossed..

[1995 toad]

well that didnt work... well so far no more code but timing still jumping around... crap I guess try the cps or distributor next??? I  put a mark on the balancer where #2 would be tdc and put the timing light on it and it is still doing the same jump from the correct timing to aprox 3* atdc like it was on #1...

[1995 toad]

well now the same 22 code came back up with the new tps at idle... sweet

[fixkick]

well now the same 22 code came back up with the new tps at idle... sweet

sweet, why is catastrophic error sweet? IDK> (i will assume that is sarc) ok I dig that.

22 never lies.! wires good. pins not rusty, means the TPS is not closed. (or 5volts failing from ECU to TPS)
my guess wild is you did not do the calibration on the TPS?
these cars are not at all like cars made after year 2000, not one has auto calibrate, like all modern cars have now, endless that.

all timing is done (by humans here) timing belt , distrib and for sure TPS.

"TPS  Throttle Position  Sensor Circuit  too low V  , TP pin, not idle". (voltage too low and means TPS closed too far or at 0volts wrong, 1v is par)
this can mean the TPS was adjusted wrong or not at all, you did not say you did it?
This stop screw is the never touch screw.  if you see a gap here the cable is set way way too tight and not 10mm spec.slack.
.026"inch feeler gauge at TV idle stop screw end. inserted HERE.
turn TPS until idle switch pin 2 just barely closes about 500 ohms is closed.  (50-1000 ohms is closed , infinity is open for idle switch.
then rotate the TPS CCW, then rotate CW it until the TPS (pin1 and 2 ) from infinity to near 300 to 500 ohms, then lock down the TPS screws.
This step MUST be done. at any TPS change out.

[fixkick]

please do fix code 22 errors
as each time that happens the ECU goes to limphome mode and timing advance is dead in that mode.  the FSM tells you that clearly.

DTC must not be ignored on this car, or it will misfire, for sure.

the ECU seeing code 22 then runs the mimic mode of a dead TPS, a very very crude thing this, using MAF as a fake TPS is what it does.
TPS is prime sensor and most not ever fail for any reason,  or you ECU can not run in NORMAL MODE.

consider this, what if this PC had no limphome mode nor mimic dead sensors modes
and TPS failed
it the engine stalls. off idle.  (as enrich mode is now dead, )

The TPS is NOT optional on any EFI car;.

what is TPS TP voltage at idle.? 1v? pin 3.
meter neg black lead to battery minus
and red test lead tip with needle back probing pin 2.

there is no CAS crank angle sensor(CKP) on this year car
the CMP is in the distributor and is not sold by it self, in stores.

this is the FSM page for your car for TPS calibration. pin 1 is down. pin 2 is idle switch.
on running  engine , not pulled connector like below
1: ground, 0volts
2: 0v ,idle switch closed. switch, 5v wrong. (code 44./45) (we calibrate just this pin)
3: TP pin output about 1v, not 0v not 5v.  (0v is code 22) also todays world called THROTTLE ANGLE PIN. TP= throttle position.(old name)
4: +5vdc power from ECU if this fails sure code 22. (spec is 4.75 to 5.25vdc)  this is only power. to the TPS.
the TPS can be bench calibrated easy in ohms mode. sure can.

on modern cars, there is no idle switch at all .
the ECU auto-calibrates the TPS every time you key on.  (your car is not modern)

[fixkick]

code 22 is a catastrophic error, it can not be ignored, you can erase the stored errors in ECU memory by removing the DOME fuse at left ankle box.

[fixkick]

the error means pin 3 reads way  too low.
TPS.
why only remains. only that.\

the factory page for your car on topic calibration TPS is here , annotated with my words RED
the steel throttle pedal cable must have  10mm slack, per same book.

[fixkick]

pin 3 is about 1volt at idle
some very hard to diagnose cars (and machines), I had do run wires from the TPS to the passenger bay, pin 3 and 4
to see witch wires mess up driving at code 22.
we call that laying in a trap. fixed many intermittent machines my whole life doing just that, I even built a logger, that is and Arduino in a box. (and A/D sub module + SD disk logger)
an n can connect it to any TPS made (not some fords) and log any pin I want. (voltage over time logs)

old machines can fail in vast ways not just a bad TPS or BAD ECU. lots more. (bad wires, bad pins, and more)

"never idle". above means not hold HOT 800 RPM regulated Idle speeds. +-50 RPM

good luck to you on that lil''kick.

[1995 toad]

tps was calibrated...
have checked all wires from tps to their other ends
no bad wires.
found white wire from cps has shielding that wasn't connected to a ground on cps end...just laying in looming...grounded
tested wires from cps to coil, ignitor. noise suppressor. and cpu.... all wires checked good
not sure how to check suppressor.
every thing runs good till warm up then the problems start
havent driven it since all this
mounted cpu on kick panel to ease in testing wires to cpu... it is grounded btw.
started and ran fine no codes but didnt have time to drive it or warm it up.


the timing retarding was happening before the tps code showing up
with the code it still drives the same except the same timing jumping to 3* atcd


wish i had a spare cpu to test
would the noise suppressor cause intermittent timing drop

the timing jump is very intermittent and is happening on at lest the front two cylinders witch was all i tested with the timing light.

[1995 toad]

i will test running voltages soon