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95 Kick 4dr 4AT won't start
Tests I've done
R&R battery terminal, crank for several seconds, code 12
Fuses good.
R&R grds from DIzzy to body, rear FP GRD by seat belt. R&R tail light (no Grd), Battery to body grd,
Fuel pressure is just less that 40 with leaky gauge hose. Pump turn off afte a few seconds when in "on" position.
R&R most every plug I can find
Engine will run if I squirt start fluid in intake tube.
Brand new engine and was running great for 150 miles.
This is was an intermittent problem for a couple of times one day and now no start.

Also I would like to add my fuel gauge stays at fuel level with key off. Not 100% sure but I thought it when to empty before.

I would also like to give the site admin cudos for aftermarket rotor issue. I tore the front off the engine 5 times doubting my engine building and tune ability just to find out the rotor went on 3 different ways! OMG WTF! Never heard of that or seen anything like it.
No clicky sound on injectors.
OHM on #1 OK, didn't check the rest as some disassembly is required.
Check voltage at connector B terminal with key on. Spuratic voltage from .03v to 11.8V. Battery is at almost 13 V

Bad ECU? Anything else to check?
If ECU can same year but 2dr 5sp work?
Sorry im so slow Geckocycles.
no start. 4d, A/T 1995, is it 8v or 16v head , ? need to know engine type as EFI is radically different on the 2 used in 1995, in 96 all because 16v.
yes pump only runs 3 seconds, on 95, each key on. then runs full time , only if spark is good (ecu sees spark ) and full time fuel pump cranking.

im so glad the 3 rotor clone deal saved you, dont those china rotors SUCK ? I hate clones, buy Bosch.

i just need to know valve count.?

but runs on test fuel.

Ok , both ECU will cut fuel for 2 reasons.
1: ECU sees WOT all the time.
2: ECU Thinks (sic) that there is no spark for any reasons. (fail safe , no crash and burn , software (firmware by design)

my guess, is the NOID lamp fails, (zero injections)?
TPS pin called TP , must be near 1v, not 3.5 or 4 or 5vdc or ECU cuts fuel. (unflood mode in action)
The tachometer, on the dash if dead cranking (will only show 0.3 RPM on scale (tinY) if tachometer is dead, the ECU cuts fuel. the suppressor model falling off can do that as can. the below:
A: shorted tacho input
b: shorted, cruise module.
c: shorted 4sp, TCM brain.
someone added an aftermarket tach, and did it WRONG (ask for help)

bad ecu. last. ever put fresh capacitors in it?
most 4dr have 16v but some canada kicks, come in many more flavors than in USA. ive never seen them all.
1 injector
or 4 injectors.?
its running now? but wont charge or something.
what is wrong with the charge, i see you other post for that.

i wish i new what engine you my guess is 16v. due to "have not checked the rest comment" and no click on Injectors,
you have a 16v. ok,. this MPI, 4 injector engine.
Yes it is a 16v MPFI.
I did get it running and it was the injector harness. Close examination revealed corrode pins. I need to put on the close up specs next time looking at stuff. Everything looked so clean and good. What a nightmare that all was.

I got the charging system worked out. Now I need to try to get some of the almost $600 I spent getting it fixed. It was just a battery all along but the battery shop said it was fine from the getgo. New battery. Long story parts replacing and having the best auto electric place in Denver work on it for $408 and they didn't even find out the battery was at fault.

After the Battery shop tested the system the check engine light no longer comes on. They removed the Pos teminal on the battery and turned on the lights and it died. That was their alternator/battery test. Car runs fine I just don't get a light on when key is turned on anymore. No signal to test plug under hood.
the battery can only be tested when charged 100% then load tested. The tool is only $24 at harbor fright,
many folks walk in with a dead battery and it's all just a waste of time. (autostore H3LL) a real shop knows to charge it, and says come back near closing time...
take the battery in with 12.6v (rested) at the terminals. charge it first. the rest for 4hrs, the measure the volts.
if it will not charge up to 12.6v (warm days) after a full rest then the battery is DOA.
If you charge a battery and it reads like 13.5 v, that is surface charge, (false) imagine, the electrolyte inside is not fully mixed,up yet, that is way, it must rest and mix.
if all that is too slow, the barrow a known good battery, and bingo you have the answer with zero tools. and zero dumb guys at the autostore.
the autostore just love to sell new batteries to you,that are ONLY discharged and quite good, it's a major profit deal.
But they can do Alternators very well, never batteries.

i added more bench marks to my charge page.
No ASE shop pulls the battery terms on a running engine, this invites huge overvoltage and blowiing up all electronic in the, car. including a $1000 ECU.
The battery tests are done with a LOAD bank, or battery load tester. only.

The lamp in the the dash is burned out.? CHARGE and CEL?
ground the ALT lamp wire at the alt pin, (plug pulled) the key on, if lamp is dead, then its dead.
this lamp dead, is my page shows. and why, will cause the alternator to be born dead 1/2 the time, why allow that.? if dead.?
The lamp pre charges the field coil., on many ALTS.
if the lamp is missing, that will not happen every time. (a real PAIN that is.)

check engine light no longer comes on? lamp burned out. ask for lamp numbers or read my hard to find parts page under, lamps.

if they over voltage'd the system , many lamps burn out. they were dead wrong to do that. I'd not go there again.

that trick is for antique, cars, with no electronics on board. they are in the old school hell.
don't let them touch your car.
next time, find a real ASE shop. See the badge on sleeve of real mech. and win.
At least at walmart, they have a very expensive, charge analysis system. here. even the untrained can use it. It even talks you through it....

never take a battery uncharged to any test place. (unless they have charging stations and real ASE guys,)
never take a running car to any shop and say its don't run. or wont start.,,, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
never take a car to a shop and then not be able to demonstrate the issue life. if not #=$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

if you do , you will go broke soon.
$100 and hour to find intermittent is very expensive. near endless. ASK for help, post symptoms and ask for simple tests.

do not run any modern car with the battery cables removed. GEE. that is really asking for trouble, ( but was ok back before the 80s) way back WHEN !

what lamps work, in the dash, any? key on only?
brake fail,
CEL (no)

congrats getting a field Kick working, it not easy, not at all.
bad fuel , bad connections.

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