91 Tracker 1.6L starting problems

[Drury]

First off, thanks for all the info. I've been reading through it and have done several tests. But unfortunately, I'm in a very remote location and have limited tools at moment.
A little background. We recently purchased this 91 1.6L Tracker for the ranch. It has 97K miles and has been on ranches for the last 10 years. She's rough but has been running good until recently. Filled it with gas a couple of days ago and drove it maybe 4 to 6 miles over a couple of different runs and now she won't start. When it first started having this problem, we could get it to barely run/stumble if the gas pedal was pressed completely to the floor. But it won't even do that anymore. Just cranks and cranks.

Here's what I've done so far.
I can faintly hear the fuel pump when I first turn the key for 3 seconds and ends with a click.
I switched the connections on the relays with the same result.
Pulled a few spark plugs and they were wet with fuel.
I can also smell fuel when cranking.
Pulled the plugs and checked for spark and they all were all working. Not a huge spark, but it was there.
CEL lamp does glow when key is on as well as the brake and battery light. The oil lamp comes on after a few a seconds.
Checked all fuses in the box and the only one blown is the radio
Voltage at the fuse box is 12.2. At the battery is 12.6 volts.
Used a paper clip to pull the codes and got code 44.
So I pulled the negative batt cable and ran the TPS test at 20K ohms on my voltmeter.
A to D = 4.93
C to D = strange reading. Screen showed "1." on the far left side with no other numbers. Checked it multiple times with same result.
B to D = 1.14 to 3.78 (continuous reading without jumps)
A to B = 3.91 to 1.29 (continuous reading without jumps)

Between the code 44 and the strange TPS reading on C to D, I'm guessing that might be leading to my problem. Just not sure what to check next. Any guidance would be appreciated.

[fixkick]

welcome ! and thanks!
(gut feeling, is)
i think the cam belt slipped. (is 17mm front crank (pulley) at 94fb/lbs. not 10. not 20. or loose...

those readings , unplugged,
44 idle switch open or calibrated wrong or dash pot stuck open or someone, fiddle the idle stop screw, killing factory setting there
that strange readiing on your meter is called over-range, or more simply the circuit is open (infinity is shown that way)) same and connecting test leads.
and is normal, when parked, key on pocket, and the dashpot opens the throttle, (it has an internal spring) that pushes the throttle open , not running.
the first step in calibration is to hold back that device, Dashpot. or this test fails.




A>D is steady 3 to 5k ohms, eg: 4000 steady would be ok so would 5000. this is the fixed resistor carbon part.
then
reach down and hand retract the DP (dashpot) that funny vacuum deal on rear of TB(throttle body)
then check the switch. C > D>
500 ohms or less. if not set right it jumps to infinity ohm fast. this will fail, and cause 44s. every time. if not calibrated.

B>D is the pot side, called throttle angle. and varies about 1K to 5k ohms (or 1k to 3k ) as you vary throttle angles by hand,. this is normal.
it must not glitch or is bad pot wiper inside.

A>b Is the reverse of above, moving the throttle from idle to max.

so i bet CD fails. and false for many reasons.
but here they are.
1: the Throttle plate is 99.9% closed with dash pot 100% retracted by hand or using vacuum on the nipple (8inches) or tie wrapped backwards.
2: now the throttle is closed, as it must before the TPS is calibrated with the 3 feeler gauges. (or just one with great skill, luck)
3: feeler 0.016" is used at the throttle stop screw.
4: the with CD pins and meter OHMs 2k scale best , turn the TPS until the ohms JUST goes from Infinity to 500ohms or less.
done. no more 44s.


also many cars have been molested at the throttle stop screw, making all the above fail
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/screwed-again.html

the valve is 99.9% closed. DP retracted, if not its wrong, and needs to be corrected

[fixkick]

step 8 is failing
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS...alibration

there are lots of reasons besides bad TPS.
see hopeless paragraph in this section.

[fixkick]

no tools
a timing light if spark is way off, the cam belt slipped. if slipped to much the rotor in the disrib can fire left or right, random.
if not timing light.the
you can do this.
its called sneak a peak.
almost no tools.

this is #4 firing, how to get there, can be hard.
the crank tdc is #1 or #4 firing.
so if the upper cam mark is at 6pm, that is #1 firing
so turn the crank one full turn, now #4 is firing, is that cam cog marke not at 12pm. if way off, the belt did slip.
just one tool to do that, get cover rocked back with only top and side screws off cover.
all are 10mm socket.


my 91 looks like this. 60a tity mark is the only mark to use
if car has older engine, its just 1 titty mark. no numbers.

---

as a side show to cam slip
the compression falls to near 1/2 normal.
150+ psi norm.
80 wrong.
as it slips it loves to retard, crank turns (wants) faster than cam does that.
both tools are 20bucks
timing light
compression.

[Drury]

FixKick,
I did make a mistake when testing the TPS for C > D. I did not retract the dashpot prior to the test. I’ll start there next time I’m at the Tracker. I should be down there next week.
If the TPS C>D test fails again, I'll try and re-calibrate the TPS to 500ohms or less. If it cannot be re-calibrated, then am I correct that I need to replace the TPS?

On the other hand, If the C > D test passes with the dashpot retracted, I’ll check to see if the cam belt slipped and or if I have a bad key.
One question on the Acid Test, will I be able to pull the timing cover back enough to see the marks on the crank pulley?

I’m starting to think the cam belt slipped as well since everything else looks to be good and I seriously doubt the previous owner did the 60K maintenance.
Anything else I should be checking on while I’m there?
Thanks again for the help. This will save us a ton of trouble.

[fixkick]

it should calibrate ok,
you want the switch to open just as your right foot twitches down, if not and it delays switching open it fights you, and is dangerous having a delay like that.
it bucks a bit. Human fighting the idle servo.
no, on crank cog but the front marks on cover and pulley will be ok, most times. 99% (1% is defective pulley)

sure belt looks good, no cracks , not shredding, and not loose.
crank cog 17mm bolt at 94ft lbs... never loose..... or at old spec. (ore 95 spec is wrong)
good luck to you !!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Drury]

Sounds good and just to confirm, this 91 1.6L is the 8v right?

[fixkick]

correct 1991 usa, are all G16b 8v, then 16v began in 1992 here, (both offered until 1996 where 8v became illegal (epa )

[Drury]

Hey Fixkick,
I'm back at the ranch and making another run at the Tracker. When I got here, she would start and run but you would have to work the throttle to get it to idle and it really smelled rich.
I checked cam belt and with the rotor pointing to #4 the cam cog was at 12pm. So it looked right. Next I cleaned the EGR valve and that seemed to help. She will idle now. But it's still rough and smells rich.
I'm reading through your information. But if you have any suggestions of what to check next, I'd be most appreciative.

[fixkick]

rich has many causes. yes, 91 (usa) is 8valve TBI single injector engine. (injector is inside throttle body)
is the eCU flashing code 12 on demand? (if not code 12, that can mean , nasty failsafe mode is in force (rich , and retarded timing = black smoke, low mpg and stink)
(diag jumper is always 1st check.) (type CEL in my search box)

fuel pressure too high 60psi is too high. .. 34.1 to 39.8 PSI spec. (type pump in my search box)
The injector or it's 2 o-rings leaking? Can be eyes on, while person to keys on like 3 times. (main pipe off, key on, off , and off, person too watches the injector for leaking) as seen below.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...age_6.html
fpreg, vacuum nipple leaking fuel with the hose off? FPR is mounted to front of TBI body.
ECT wires fell off (code 12s will not happen in this state) and causes failsafe, in this class failure.
MAP hose fell off, or is clogged, or hose split.? map is on right side of fire wall above the battery.
compression over 150psi??? low compression has many causes, and vast numbers or 24year old cars , are like that. (most are parked gathering dust)
CAT converter not melted, blocking exhaust ,fully or near full blockage.
Set the spark timing with a timing light yet, ???? using the timing freeze jumper?

besides that:basics list)
engine ok? (tests) can pump air ok, can make compression at spec, or more. even a dirty air filter?
spark oK, tuneup , timed, etc.
fueling. if the above are good, then it must be a fueling issue.! (no injector leaks. , fuel filter clean, gas not bad. ecu sensors working, fuel pressure at spec)